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From E+ to P speed


spattex

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15 minutes ago, steve454 said:

Ah!  I just remembered IOS has more functions than android app.  I don't have IOS phone, but now I remember seeing that high speed slider in another post a few months ago.  Good luck I hope someone knows how to make it work.

It seems @spattex last visited 20 OCT 2017.

Yeah... long time no see @spattex maybe his tuned wheel exploded!! I hope not!!

Well, I'll report back in this thread when I find some solution, thanks again!

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21 hours ago, pollytronman said:

Yeah... long time no see @spattex maybe his tuned wheel exploded!! I hope not!!

Well, I'll report back in this thread when I find some solution, thanks again!

I have activated it using an iPhone with latest segway-ninebot app. This option is visible and you can enable or disable it from iOS app. It remained enabled even using android app (but not visible).

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On 22.1.2018 at 6:56 PM, pollytronman said:

Judging @spattex experiences 30 Km/h is quite safe and stable with an additional battery pack. 

Guys, do you think 35Km/h would be possible for leveled road with no wind and not fast accelerations for some seconds?

One can calculate the needed power to overcome airdrag and friction quite easily — unfortunately i cant right now, my computer is down:ph34r: and estimate if the wheel could handle it or not... But doesnˋt the ninebot p also have some fixed tiltback speed? 30 km/h?

Quote

I thought most problems with voltage drops or high current come with fast changes to speed, but once speed is got, is it so energy hungry to maintain?

This screenshot is at max speed with extra battery pack but default 1.4.0 firmware, going quite steep uphill, but current reading are almost 17 amps,  I thought max amps were 10A.

 

Imho the used cells for the ninebot e+ have 5amps rating for maximum continous current. Making 10 A max continous current for the 15s2p pack used. Maximum peak current is easily higher. Especially with an additional battery pack.

also the app reports the motor current and not the battery current. The motor current is always higher as the battery current (reaching the battery current at max no load speed), also many wheels supposedly report to high currents.

also ~1000W do not sound too bad for going up a steep incline with ~23km/h...

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11 minutes ago, Chriull said:

One can calculate the needed power to overcome airdrag and friction quite easily — unfortunately i cant right now, my computer is down:ph34r: and estimate if the wheel could handle it or not... But doesnˋt the ninebot p also have some fixed tiltback speed? 30 km/h?

Imho the used cells for the ninebot e+ have 5amps rating for maximum continous current. Making 10 A max continous current for the 15s2p pack used. Maximum peak current is easily higher. Especially with an additional battery pack.

also the app reports the motor current and not the battery current. The motor current is always higher as the battery current (reaching the battery current at max no load speed), also many wheels supposedly report to high currents.

also ~1000W do not sound too bad for going up a steep incline with ~23km/h...

Hello Chriull, thanks for your explanations.

I've set the limit to 30Km/h and it works fine (tiltbacks and 30 but I do not about a fixed tiltback speed). I think more than 30 km/h is too much for me and for my urban use.

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8 minutes ago, pollytronman said:

I've set the limit to 30Km/h and it works fine (tiltbacks and 30 but I do not about a fixed tiltback speed). I think more than 30 km/h is too much for me and for my urban use.

It does have a fixed tiltback but I was never able to achieve that speed and maintain it.  When you hit it, it tilts you back making you slow down.  When the tiltback lets off, you can speed back up until you hit it again so it was a balancing act of going back and forth at the limit.  I was only able to get a peak average at one small section of this ride of just over 16MPH (26KPH).  

 

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22 minutes ago, jpiat said:

Did anyone try to perform this mod on a C+ to get E+ speed?

C+ model changes to P, but the maximum speed is about 25-26lm/h

Can be done in my application NineTool via bluetooth.
 

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Having a hard time understanding that many think to be perfectly normal to convert by firmware change an inferior wheel (motor, board, battery...) into a superior one and nothing can go wrong...

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6 hours ago, Damarafaka said:

Having a hard time understanding that many think to be perfectly normal to convert by firmware change an inferior wheel (motor, board, battery...) into a superior one and nothing can go wrong...

Generally speaking I agree, but as factory limits are often very prudential, if you drive in favourable conditions (light driver, flat and no bumpy terrain, smooth and no heavy driving, temperature not too cold, last but not least adequate safety gear) you can raise your euc limit by a few km/h. How much you can raise it and it's worth it is of course the real question, this requires an excellent knowledge of the limits of your euc. I never had a cutoff with any of my four euc but I know somebody who never didn’t, so I think everybody can make a statistic of his own experiences and elaborate them with sufficient responsibility.

In my opinion @MRN76 trick is as great as simple, with my E+ I drive now in the city to 25 km/h and with S2 to 27 km/h (I don’t push them to the limit) from a week, till now no problems, I hope not simply have been lucky ;)

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5 hours ago, Nelson Correa said:

Hello. Somebody can help me. I want to upgrade my e+ to p. How can I do it ? I have to open the wheel???? Or it's possible with a firmware??? 

Can my program ninetool. But I can only do in the evening

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3 minutes ago, MaxMi said:

@MRN76 what's about developing ninetool for installing E+ 1.4.3 firmware (and reinstalling back 1.4.0)?

No. To change the model from e to p. I have not yet implemented the firmware upgrade to version 1.4.3 and 1.3.5

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2 minutes ago, MRN76 said:

No. To change the model from e to p. I have not yet implemented the firmware upgrade to version 1.4.3 and 1.3.5

Yes now thanks to ninetool I'm already driving in P mode. It's smooth, but I'd like to see if with 1.4.3 firmware the behavior would be better, or the same.

Anyway it's not a priority, my E+ in P mode already works well ;)

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FYI

The decision was taken that firmware mods are not allowed in this forum.

The forum rules were just changed to reflect this:





So this topic will be removed soon.

Sorry for any inconvinience caused.

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On 11/28/2018 at 6:23 PM, Chriull said:

FYI

The decision was taken that firmware mods are not allowed in this forum.

The forum rules were just changed to reflect this:





So this topic will be removed soon.

 

Ups - forgot to remove this announcement and move the topic....

 

On 11/23/2018 at 12:18 AM, Damarafaka said:

Having a hard time understanding that many think to be perfectly normal to convert by firmware change an inferior wheel (motor, board, battery...) into a superior one and nothing can go wrong...

 

On 11/28/2018 at 8:31 AM, MaxMi said:

Yes now thanks to ninetool I'm already driving in P mode. It's smooth, but I'd like to see if with 1.4.3 firmware the behavior would be better, or the same.

Anyway it's not a priority, my E+ in P mode already works well ;)

Also got to think about and "remember" the old reports about the P models. Afair there was a "abnormal" high rate of motherboard failures (Mosfets burned, ?especially when braking harder?) - just few positive reports of P owners with their P wheels surviving?

With the not continuing/cancelation of the model P it got quiet - so no idea how and if this evolved? The new firmwares restrained the One P so that they "survive" easier?

Regarding the battery discussion (E+ vs. P) since there just was one/some new reports of E+ "cutting off". Afair in some (?rare?) cases my and my brothers E+ the BMS cut off (took some time until we discovered the dis- and reconnecting the battery resets the BMS and one does not have to carry it home to the charger :ph34r:). Does this occur more frequently with the update to One P, or was this problem also inbetween solved/"defused" with the newer firmwares?

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@Chriull, to be honest I have not yet understood the difference between having an E + with firmware 1.4.0, but that "thinks" to be a P, instead of having the firmware 1.4.3, which had been created long time ago by @MRN76 to install it with the physical interface; but I always read that it was smoother and that never it gave problems.

Personally before to upgrade to 1.4.3 I wait also for firmware 1.4.0 on NineTool to be able to roll back if I'm not happy; I like very much these experiments (at my risk and danger, of course), but I also like the reversibility. Anyway, after two weeks since I changed my E+ to P, with cold weather (not so cold, north Italy), 75 kg dressed on flat ground, and very relaxed driving style (no abrupt acceleration/braking nor big holes or roots), I feel safe with a maximum speed of 25 km/h, while with the S2 upgradaded I feel I can do a few km/h more thanks to better battery and torque. But even if you go to the top factory speed, don't have the tiltback at 18 km/h ... priceless. :rolleyes: Of course, I always stay with one ear on the alert, which is not easy with the E+ low volume...

About "I feel": usually I proceed with very small steps, by character I stop long before the limit. All right, there's not only physics but also the electronics that play; so I hope not to be wrong in having set these thresholds, which are valid only for me, my weight and my driving style. Maybe when the P came out, many expected too much from its modest power increase. But starting with little expectations and making small progress, maintaining a minimalist approach, has so far preserved me from accidents (four wheels and never had a cut: maybe just luck?). :)

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I used MRN76 app to tell my Ninebot E+ that it is a P. My top speed on it was 28.6km/h. The other day I went for a ride and my top speed was 28.3km/h. I was a bit worried about not hearing the beep and I was unsure about getting tiltback so I used Darknessbot on my iPhone to sound an alarm at 27km/h. Then I changed it to 28. The alarm from the iPhone is nice and loud but after doing my run and feeling the tiltback several times I think I now feel safe enough to just follow the tiltback. I also got better range and less voltage sag so it seems like the battery is behaving more intelligently and less sparingly. 14km total range in +2 degree cold. My riding weight was 71kg.

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