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My 14-C has died.....what went wrong!?


fourthewin
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To jog the cells, I ran my 14C down to about 10% battery life on saturday night. When I got home, I put it away (I don't like to charge when I go to sleep). 

The next day, I noticed that it wouldn't turn on. So I put it on the charger. First thing I noticed was that the charging light didn't come on. So I disconnected it, and tested the power. 

First I checked the cord plugged into the wall:120v. Then the plug that goes into the EUC: 67v. I then popped the lid on it and tested the opposite side of the charging port: 60v. I then disconnected the charger and checked both fuse links, they're good. I then pulled the XT60 plug apart and tested that: 1.5v?! That seemed weird. So I was thinking maybe I ran it down too far. 

I put it back on the charger and let it go for 8hrs. When I came back, still no light. So I checked the battery power again. This time it was 18v. 

I connected the XT60 again and tried to turn it on. It did, but only the headlights. The front and back light was flashing and alternating. The bluetooth light was also blinking blue. 

I put it back on the charger and let it run all night, next morning still no light on the charger but now the battery reads 22v. 

Notes: The charger when disconnected from the Uni turns green, when connected, there is NO light. Thinking it might be the charger, I replaced the charger with an airwheel charger with the same specs except for .5 less amps. Same thing, green light when disconnected, nothing when connected. 

What's going on guys!? Are my batteries toast? 

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@fourthewin: i assume the xt60 is at the discharge side between the battery and the mainboard? 1.8v for 16 cells in series should mean quite dead batteries. Also the 18-22v. I would have assumed that the bms shut off the output due to cell undervoltage and the voltages you measured are from a voltage divider between the "closed" mosfets and your voltmeter - but since the headlights were "working" this could not be the case...

either the/some/most cells were/are completely down (liion cells cannot really be jogged...) or you have some bms malfunction... 

if sou feel confident to do so you could open your battery pack and measure all the cell voltages - just be carefull to short absolutely nothing! 

For some reading about liion clls batteryuniversity.com is a great place!

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12 minutes ago, fourthewin said:

I guess the next step is, how to get the warranty? It has a year and I bought it new from www.electricunicyclereviews.com

Who do I contact in the US? 

Don't know how it is in the US - here in europe the warranty on the batteries is normally less tha a year... :(

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16 minutes ago, fourthewin said:

I guess the next step is, how to get the warranty? It has a year and I bought it new from www.electricunicyclereviews.com

Who do I contact in the US? 

They went out of business and the 14C is no longer manufactured and to the best of my knowledge, supported.

EWheels still sells parts, including new battery packs for the 14C.

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It's a 680whr cycle. 

I spoke to Will the owner and he's offered his help. He said he's heard of other people have a similar problem and was able to fix it fairly easily. However, I don't know what that process is. Does anyone have any ideas?

I purchased in April of 2017. What is the warranty on these batteries? Less than 6 months. 

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1 hour ago, fourthewin said:

It's a 680whr cycle. 

I spoke to Will the owner and he's offered his help. He said he's heard of other people have a similar problem and was able to fix it fairly easily. However, I don't know what that process is. Does anyone have any ideas?

I purchased in April of 2017. What is the warranty on these batteries? Less than 6 months. 

If you're already talking to Will I'm sure he'll be able to explain the process.

The warranties on any of our wheels is only as good as the warranty offered by the dealers, since it's essentially impossible for us to interact with the manufacturers directly. I think the manufacturers ignore anyone outside of China. Maybe inside China too :(

Ewheels specifically warranties their KingSong wheel batteries for one year from purchase. Your warranty will depend on electricunicyclereviews

Edited by Marty Backe
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1 hour ago, fourthewin said:

It's a 680whr cycle. 

I spoke to Will the owner and he's offered his help. He said he's heard of other people have a similar problem and was able to fix it fairly easily. However, I don't know what that process is. Does anyone have any ideas?

I purchased in April of 2017. What is the warranty on these batteries? Less than 6 months. 

   A guy with a boosted board let the batteries get too low to start a charge, so his friend pulled him behind his car and regeneration charged the batteries enough to let the charger finish the charge.  Maybe holding it on a powered treadmill at high speed?

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1 minute ago, fourthewin said:

Is there ANYWAY to reset the BMS or force charge the batteries? 

What about 12v trickle charger? Is there any danger to trying it? 

I suppose there's no danger, but 12 volts won't accomplish anything. You would need a 67 volt trickle charger.  Note that a trickle charger works by limiting the current, not the voltage.

Didn't you say that Will agreed to help you :confused1:

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2 hours ago, steve454 said:

   A guy with a boosted board let the batteries get too low to start a charge, so his friend pulled him behind his car and regeneration charged the batteries enough to let the charger finish the charge.  Maybe holding it on a powered treadmill at high speed?

 

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8 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

I remember seeing someone recovering a Solowheel battery that wasn't charging.  I think they rolled the wheel somehow to boost up the voltage so it tricked the BMS to work again?  Here's one video I found - don't know if it might work.

 

Brilliant!

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1 hour ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

I remember seeing someone recovering a Solowheel battery that wasn't charging.  I think they rolled the wheel somehow to boost up the voltage so it tricked the BMS to work again?  Here's one video I found - don't know if it might work.

 

Hopefully I'll never need it, but I'm going to remember this video for future reference.:thumbup:

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There was one more video demonstrating how to boost a dead Solowheel.  I can't seem to find it.  Maybe @esaj knows where it is.  IIRC the guy had the charger connected and basically spun the wheel on the ground to get it spinning to help increase the voltage level up I think.

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7 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

I'm probably an outlier in this regards, but my view is to enjoy the wheels. Use them. Don't let the pursuit of extended lifetimes limit the enjoyment of the wheel.

Marty is absolutely right and as @Chriull has said above 10% isn't usually 10%, most wheels will have a quite conservative low voltage alarm so 10% is often more like 30% in reality. Some like the IPS wheels monitor individual cell voltages and alarm on the lowest cell - it is a great pity more do not do that.

However there is a huge difference in driving down to 10% because you are on a long ride and deliberately running the wheel down because you have heard a dumb rumour that it will improve the battery. Do not also forget that it is a low voltage alarm, if the wheel is ridden very slowly or left on to flatten itself you will pull the battery down way way lower than if it is ridden normally down to 10%.

However I do know that later KS-14C's had their low voltage cut off lowered right down to (I think it might have been 48V?) On mine it is 55 volts so my range is terrible, and I know I can safely flatten it to 0% as that is still 55V on the pack.

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12 hours ago, fourthewin said:

It's a 680whr cycle. 

I spoke to Will the owner and he's offered his help. He said he's heard of other people have a similar problem and was able to fix it fairly easily. However, I don't know what that process is. Does anyone have any ideas?

I purchased in April of 2017. What is the warranty on these batteries? Less than 6 months. 

Thing is, that a 14C from unicyclereciews can be from middle of 2016, as at this time (afaik) he ordered those wheels. So perhaps the Long Standing has done some damage to the cells?

 

8 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

Maybe I'm playing a game of Russian Roulette, but I regularly ride my wheels down to 25%, and periodically to 10% - 15%. No problems so far - knock on wood.

I suppose you could avoid dropping to 10%, but I think 50% is being unnecessarily conservative. Probably 20% is a good middle ground for those concerned.

Nothing wrong on this...perfect behaviour!

 

1 hour ago, Keith said:

Surely if @fourthewin has a 680Wh Kingsong he has got two 340Wh packs, one in either side of his wheel, I find it surprising that both would have failed?

As they are daisy chained in a KS14 and fourthewin only posted ONE measurement, perhaps only one is defect....i would guess the one near the board then.

Perhaps the first after charging is working good but as the BMS of the last protects to Switch together. a low voltage and a normal voltage.

I would measure both packs seperatly....

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