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6 minutes ago, Lukasz said:

Can I help You somehow?  mod is really not difficult to do if You have basic tools (hex key, file, some plastic to stabilize lamp in new position)

The best additional light would be the helmet type I think... 

think what he meant was that he could not make himself take apart the Z10 and modify it like you did. I'm the same way - I'd rather not take a file to my Z10 :unsure:

I prefer a super-brite light mounted to my wrist so that I can control the light direction without having to turn my head. Also helps with not blinding any people that you want to talk to.

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3 hours ago, Lukasz said:

Can I help You somehow?  mod is really not difficult to do if You have basic tools (hex key, file, some plastic to stabilize lamp in new position)

The best additional light would be the helmet type I think... 

Thanks. I haven't opened the thing yet, which doesn't help understanding the instructions. Maybe I'll be looking at something to mount on my helmet, although how do you mount anything on a ruroc or similar.

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3 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

think what he meant was that he could not make himself take apart the Z10 and modify it like you did. I'm the same way - I'd rather not take a file to my Z10 :unsure:

Yes, that was part of it. Also so many screws and no power driver.

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11 hours ago, Damarafaka said:

New firmware just out for the Z10, everybody still waiting a couple of days to see if everything is OK or is it safe to update ninebot firmware without nerfing Z?

Wow.. it seems that Ninebot really does monitor feedback! They've updated the new firmware so that when you lock the wheel with the app, you can't power off the wheel and on it again to undo the lock like before! Nice!!! And I just bought a lock :mellow:

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Rode the Z myself, I'll probably post here for the last time and be done with it.

Putting all weight in the center of the wheel would've worked if it was a smaller, lighter wheel, the idea is nice, but the result is big, heavy and wants to stay upright no matter what. A complete miss here.

A tire without any sidewall isn't meant for any bump absorbtion. I wondered how did Colton (Choochtech) ride it at 0.6 bar, but the tire doesn't bend at all until deflated under 1 bar, so for any kind of soft ride you need to deflate it almost completely, and because no sidewall, there comes the danger of damaging the rim at some obstacle or jump. The idea to make a big hard wheel is a miss, if you value your knees and spine.

The wide wheel reacts to uneven ground by doing small side turns by itself.

After jumping over a box (that protects power cables), the Z behaved weirdly on landing (both 18L and MSX ignore such jumps). It tilted hard, that's... weird in 2018.

The lift sensor is a good idea, unless it's located where you'd normally grab the wheel to just hold it, and activates all the times you don't want it to activate - so an owner needs a special skill to grab the handle to not activate the sensor.

p.s. so in the end I moved my money to the upcoming KS18XL.

Edited by EZhel
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@justanut I think I have exactly the same problem with higher speeds. At 20mph everything is fine and I also try to have about 60% weight on one foot, but if I start clamping and still accelerate up to about 23mph I have wobbles from time to time.

Maybe I just have to wait and get more practice, but tire too isn't absolutely wobble free....I did a "cutoff" test up to 59km/h with lifting the device and there is some movement, although I think this is normal. Is it different with wheels like the KS18L, are those wheels perfectly in balance during such a test?

I don't have a lot of practice by now, and the E+ and the S2 are a lot slower, so it'll take some time to get up to Top Speed with confidence...by now 37km/h do scare me a bit.

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3 hours ago, Jekyll_500 said:

Maybe I just have to wait and get more practice, but tire too isn't absolutely wobble free....I did a "cutoff" test up to 59km/h with lifting the device and there is some movement, although I think this is normal. 

I believe that is norma.. My V8 goes al crazy if pick it up without depressing the lift button.. No way it stays straight and just spins!

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These are good news, so it‘s up to the rider as I thought. I also did some tests with the accuracy of the speedometer and it seems to be 1,5-2km/h off at 30-35km/h . Tested with Garmin Fenix 5X Plus. I‘ll maybe do some high speed tests in a week or two, but only with full body armor like rober ace.

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22 hours ago, houseofjob said:

Bumps are different. I never take bumps at high/max speed, always slow down, and bend both my knees as you do to absorb these bumps as well.

High speed is a different issue.

 

I get no wobbles with 'emergency braking'; it is just doing the technique I said prior in reverse.

 

Dunno what camera he's shooting with, but many of these cameras, especially the action ones, make you seem like you're going faster than you are, due to the wide angle.

IMHO, he's not going that fast on the turns as your led to believe, and the technique he's using is not sustainable at higher speeds.

There's a hesitation for him to set a 'locked' position to accelerate out of the turn. The way I've experimented with is more instantaneous, because it's not about physically moving your weight in position left-and-right, it's about staying wide-legged the whole time, and hinging diagonally from straight leg to straight leg for instant weight transfer.

 

This is true, as body physics are different for all shapes and sizes.

But personally, I find too much fault with the bending both knees for high speed / high speed turning. And FWIW, this is not just me talking, this is based on decades of ski technique / physics, which the more I ride, I find to be uncannily transferrable to EUC.

 

It is not an action camera it is an iPhone X, however if it is obviously placed on the ground and at a certain angle that by passing just a few centimeters from the camera produces an interesting speed effect. I have to tell you that this position is the most efficient I found to be able to perform steps on the curve at the highest possible speed, and that's because Z unlike the other wheels offers a high resistance to the inclination, which is not applicable to the rest of the other wheels that technique.

Anyway it would be very interesting to know other possibilities, we would love to see your contribution to this topic with a demonstration video

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1 minute ago, RoberAce said:

Anyway it would be very interesting to know other possibilities, we would love to see your contribution to this topic with a demonstration video

Yes, I'm working on one, but the only problem is that, while it feels like an extreme motion when I ride, on-camera, the angles and body positioning is hard to pick up. I'll work on a solution though!

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1 hour ago, RoberAce said:

They took my picture for a Chinese ad  ;)

E7C1CECB-3BAA-415D-9EA9-CB4A40B3BD91.jpeg

253E01CF-8379-4736-A49A-6129DBA65975.png

Wow @RoberAce, the poem praise you as this:

Nothing can block my

       longing for the freedom of

              living like a flying horse in the sky

                     with no bother of daily life.

 

Give my wild suburban back!

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Congratulations! Don’t try to get up to higher speeds unless you feel comfortable with at first 25km/h and so on. Try emergency braking and soon you‘ll be able to stand relaxed on your wheel and the wobble will go away. Today I‘ve had my second day with the Z10 and could do up to 38km/h without wobbles but I also try to speed up slowly as I think it really takes a lot of practice to have enough control about this Beast. 

 

There are a lot of experienced riders in this forum, I try to learn but it‘ll take time and lots of practice to get to their level. I‘m looking forward for maybe some YouTube Videos of houseofjob,Marty,RoberAce just to name a few, who share their knowledge of how to ride the Z10 and other „performance“ wheels.

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21 hours ago, Ziiten said:
On 9/12/2018 at 1:15 AM, Marty Backe said:

think what he meant was that he could not make himself take apart the Z10 and modify it like you did. I'm the same way - I'd rather not take a file to my Z10 :unsure:

Yes, that was part of it. Also so many screws and no power driver.

Ninebot added very nice hex key to the box, so you have "almost" all what you need to do the job ;-)     Mod needs basic technical skills, but there is no need to void any warranty seals which are inside - one on the battery and second one on the electronics cover.  Please DO NOT use power tools during this job as screws are small and need very little torque. With power tool most likely You will spoil the threads/mounts/screws. 

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10 hours ago, RoberAce said:

Another point to take into account is that by flexing both knees you lower the point of gravity which favors stability

My counterpoint: you don't need to bend both to get lower.

The way I ride is the inner leg/knee is bent while the outer leg is outstretched; same level of lowering.

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14 minutes ago, houseofjob said:

My counterpoint: you don't need to bend both to get lower.

The way I ride is the inner leg/knee is bent while the outer leg is outstretched; same level of lowering.

It’s safer to keep both knees bend. Any outstretched leg gives you less flexibility in fast minor weight shifts. A fact we can learn from any ? martial arts. Besides low gravity is high fun with the Z. Touching the ground with your hands at high speeds is great fun. ? 

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28 minutes ago, houseofjob said:

My counterpoint: you don't need to bend both to get lower.

The way I ride is the inner leg/knee is bent while the outer leg is outstretched; same level of lowering.

Ah... but is your stance featured on the new Chinese Yuan?  ;)

42837585960_3720e56498_b.jpg

 

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