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2 hours ago, Marcglider said:

I read that and that is the way I am turning... still a work in progress, and why I am over leaning when I hop on any different wheel...

Yes, over leaning on the other wheels is the only problem with this. ? 

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7 minutes ago, RoberAce said:

First Pebble Model

 

Thank you, appreciate the info.

I know absolutely nothing about these watches but looking into alternative ways somehow getting a warning through when close to the the edge so to speak, I ride Gotway and all alarms turned off so kind of important to adhere to last beeps and if staying within them I should minimize the risk even though never able to irradiate them fully.

Today for example on a cruise with 2 forum friends here in Stockholm I pulled away quite hard on a straight but did not try to reach any top speed or anything I just accelerated and then let off again, this thing just like the Z is very stable and smooth so even on not perfect roads I don't register anything out of the ordinary feels like a very smooth ride and stable, but one of the guys with us asked how fast I went so I took up my phone to look cause I did not know, ohh mine apparently wheel log says 59.6km/h???  This time weather was great and no wind and I did not hear any alarm go off, perhaps it did but I lean towards not but does not matter really (as long as I am safe and did not fall that is.)

What I am looking for is a way of register that last warning even when conditions are windy, noise in the background or just cannot hear it cause the speed is too high, if weather is ok and background noise low I can tilt my head so 1 ear is aimed towards the EUC and pick it up but no matter how stable and smooth this wheel is I much rather focus on the road ahead when doing these short bursts, sprints. So a watch to vibrate (cannot feel the phone to weak), flash or make beeps louder I don't know just looking into ways of enhancing the information so I do not miss it, I know I push it when doing these sprints and try to fight the urge more often than not, but even so and no matter hos stupid I can get at times I still want to really respect the last beep before cut out is a fact!

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I realised that the pick up detection fails if you’re on a slope.. has to be on level ground for it to work. I’m usually able to pick it up without the wild spinning.. but simply can’t on a slight incline (< 5 degrees?) to bring it up steps into a pavilion..

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7 minutes ago, justanut said:

I realised that the pick up detection fails if you’re on a slope.. has to be on level ground for it to work. I’m usually able to pick it up without the wild spinning.. but simply can’t on a slight incline (< 5 degrees?) to bring it up steps into a pavilion..

Can't you just turn the wheel perpendicular to the slope before lifting it?

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Today I received my Z10 and drove it for about 20 miles. Still feels a litte weird to turn, since it really seems to go in the opposite direction which I want to go :efee612b4b:

I also had some problems with the extension tube to fill the tyre (need to buy Marty's selfmade solution), but I got it to work and set the pressure to 26 psi. While driving was much better than out of the box (going up curbs got much easier) I now have some problems when I'm trying to go fast. Pretty much exactly at 20 mph the wheel starts to wobble pretty hard, so I have to slow down. One time I was able to get it up to 24 mph, at which point it started again. I weigh around 165 lbs, should I inflate or deflate the tyre to get rid of that speed wobble?

Except for that problem I am absolutely in love with the wheel. The look is badass, build quality is nice, the speakers are good enough for some tunes and for signaling my approach to the people in front of me and it even drove pretty good through sand :efee47c9c8:

Edited by Ymladda
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3 minutes ago, Ymladda said:

One time I was able to get it up to 24 mph, at which point it started again. I weigh around 165 lbs, should I inflate or deflate the tyre to get rid of that speed wobble?

Marty weighs 170 and I weigh 175.... we both run the tire at 31 psi and it feels good so I think you should try like 29 or 30 and see if that helps...

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1 hour ago, Ymladda said:

Today I received my Z10 and drove it for about 20 miles. Still feels a litte weird to turn, since it really seems to go in the opposite direction which I want to go :efee612b4b:

I also had some problems with the extension tube to fill the tyre (need to buy Marty's selfmade solution), but I got it to work and set the pressure to 26 psi. While driving was much better than out of the box (going up curbs got much easier) I now have some problems when I'm trying to go fast. Pretty much exactly at 20 mph the wheel starts to wobble pretty hard, so I have to slow down. One time I was able to get it up to 24 mph, at which point it started again. I weigh around 165 lbs, should I inflate or deflate the tyre to get rid of that speed wobble?

Except for that problem I am absolutely in love with the wheel. The look is badass, build quality is nice, the speakers are good enough for some tunes and for signaling my approach to the people in front of me and it even drove pretty good through sand :efee47c9c8:

I'm not convinced that the tire pressure will greatly affect the wobbles. It just may be riding technique - getting more comfortable with the wheel.

At ~175-pounds, my pressure is ~30-psi, plus or minus.

Having only 20-miles on the wheel, it's early days still. Give it more time and I bet the wobbles will subside.

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11 hours ago, Ymladda said:

the pressure to 26 psi.

I am flyweight and I am very happy with 27 psi. No issues at all. So you might want to go up another 2 to 4 psi from what you have now and experiment a bit. But wobbles are not solely tire pressure issues. For me they are also control issues. I practiced two days intensively with the Z to produce speed whobbles on purpose (equipped with protection gear). My theory behind this is: if you learn to produce wobbles you learn at the same time how to avoid them and you also learn how to get out of them without panicking. That worked very well for me. Never had any with my Z10 ever since. But be careful. You are playing with rattle ? snakes here. Don’t get bitten, while practicing. Start slow and work your way up to speed.

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17 hours ago, houseofjob said:

bending both legs and/or not favoring weight on the straightened outer turn leg is all a recipe for wobbles at higher speeds, regardless of the wheel!

I always ride with both knees bent a bit, otherwise my knees or even my back wouldn’t be able to take the constant small bumps. Yet, no wobbles on my wheels (except during emergency braking). As you can see from @RoberAce’s videos, both knees bent works well for turning with the Z10 as well. On tighter/faster turns it’s even mandatory in order to get your weight enough to the side while the wheel stays more upright.

I think we will all eventually find our own techniques for various riding situations.

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37 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

I always ride with both knees bent a bit, otherwise my knees or even my back wouldn’t be able to take the constant small bumps.

Bumps are different. I never take bumps at high/max speed, always slow down, and bend both my knees as you do to absorb these bumps as well.

High speed is a different issue.

 

37 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

Yet, no wobbles on my wheels (except during emergency braking). 

I get no wobbles with 'emergency braking'; it is just doing the technique I said prior in reverse.

 

37 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

As you can see from @RoberAce’s videos, both knees bent works well for turning with the Z10 as well. On tighter/faster turns it’s even mandatory in order to get your weight enough to the side while the wheel stays more upright.

Dunno what camera he's shooting with, but many of these cameras, especially the action ones, make you seem like you're going faster than you are, due to the wide angle.

IMHO, he's not going that fast on the turns as your led to believe, and the technique he's using is not sustainable at higher speeds.

There's a hesitation for him to set a 'locked' position to accelerate out of the turn. The way I've experimented with is more instantaneous, because it's not about physically moving your weight in position left-and-right, it's about staying wide-legged the whole time, and hinging diagonally from straight leg to straight leg for instant weight transfer.

 

37 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

I think we will all eventually find our own techniques for various riding situations.

This is true, as body physics are different for all shapes and sizes.

But personally, I find too much fault with the bending both knees for high speed / high speed turning. And FWIW, this is not just me talking, this is based on decades of ski technique / physics, which the more I ride, I find to be uncannily transferrable to EUC.

 

Edited by houseofjob
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I am looking for some external light for my z10. Any suggestions for something that could be strapped on to the handle for example. The z10 light would be ok, but it seems to blind people and I just could not follow Lukasz's instructions to mod it.

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41 minutes ago, Ziiten said:

I am looking for some external light for my z10. Any suggestions for something that could be strapped on to the handle for example. The z10 light would be ok, but it seems to blind people and I just could not follow Lukasz's instructions to mod it.

https://www.lightandmotion.com/choose-your-light/vis-pro

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41 minutes ago, Ziiten said:

I am looking for some external light for my z10. Any suggestions for something that could be strapped on to the handle for example. The z10 light would be ok, but it seems to blind people and I just could not follow Lukasz's instructions to mod it.

Why not just wear a head lamp, mighty powerful lamps available and you can put the spot on anything you like on the fly, just win/win imho and no need to make that beautiful wheel ugly.

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2 hours ago, houseofjob said:

Bumps are different.

We might be riding on quite different surfaces, as there are no smooth roads around here. Small bumps/roughness/imperfections all the time, especially on paved roads. They’d really get to my joints fast were I to ride with straight legs. Tire pressure at 2.7 bars on the MSX, so nowhere near Marty levels.

That would explain the need for a different technique.

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31 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

We might be riding on quite different surfaces, as there are no smooth roads around here. Small bumps/roughness/imperfections all the time, especially on paved roads. They’d really get to my joints fast were I to ride with straight legs. Tire pressure at 2.7 bars on the MSX, so nowhere near Marty levels.

That would explain the need for a different technique.

33 psi here and some of the worst paved streets known to man here in NYC.

I use my ski slaloming technique on all my wheels, regardless, just that the Z with the wider tire requires a wider range of motion.

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Hi Everyone!

I also got my Z10 yesterday and did 50km down to 10% battery with experiencing mostly the same things as Ymladda described. For sure I'm totally happy with this wheel as it is a quality build and it took only a couple of meters to do some really tight turns (within half a meter or so...) and feel a lot of stability compared to my previous NB S2 and E+.

I think I also do get those wobbles from time to time, because I'm not used to those higher speeds and the legs stiffen a bit and so you start the wobble.

I'll practice and for sure be able to keep speeds of 40kph in a week or two, by now I'm happy to cruise with 30-35kph, which is a big improvement for me.

For the stats...I weigh about 200pounds and did some climbing tests, so I think 50-60km with a tire pressure of 35psi should be no problem. Even with the battery down to 20% a climb of 200m with 15° was absolutely no problem.

Focus with this wheel will be on faster emergency braking (I think I can brake much harder with the E+ and the S2, due to the leveled pedals on the Z10) , fast turns and getting rid of the wobble at speeds higher than 37kph.

This wheel is totally different than the E+ and the S2 (not only in terms of power and weight), so I understand why many people who want to avoid a learning curve choose a KS18L or something simlilar when you just want to have a "evolution wheel" rather than something "totally" new.

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Experimenting with the Z10 turns I have noticed that holding the wheel with the outer knee is good for maintaining speed during the curve and speeding up coming out of the turn but if we need to really turn fast when going fast, it feels better to throw the wheel forward a bit and lead with the inside foot. You lose speed bu you can reduce the turn angle. In a way you have to relearn specific techniques, test boundaries and new limits,  adapt to new ideas and change "bad" habits picked up from earlier wheels.

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5 hours ago, Ziiten said:

I just could not follow Lukasz's instructions to mod it.

Can I help You somehow?  mod is really not difficult to do if You have basic tools (hex key, file, some plastic to stabilize lamp in new position)

The best additional light would be the helmet type I think... 

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