Daan Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 I wanted to install my bike computer more permanently with a nicely hidden wire, so I opened up my Solowheel Xtreme partially; here is how to take it apart.(Disclaimer: this may void your warranty and/or break your wheel. Do it at your own risk!! Also, I just tried this out -- there may be a better way or order to it)1. Unscrew the top handle and the screw in the rubber charger connector; after this you can remove the top black padding by shifting it upward (and slightly pressing in). (and ignore the bike computer )2. In the picture below, the red circles show where the black padding hooks went in. When putting it back, be careful not to catch any wires. Wow, very neat wire arrangement, even with markings. Most wires were also neatly attached with 'heat glue'. It may help to have a heat glue device yourself to re-attach if necessary (about $8,-). And we see the advantage of a double shell: the wires are on the outside and there are no holes exposed where dirt and water can come in (from the inside). Below, I also unscrewed the blue and red displays -- and unplugged the charger wire (part of it is in the black shell).3. unscrew the 5 shell screws on the sides; I used a piece of tape to remember where each screw belongs. Note, only unscrew one side -- see next why. Actually, In the above photo I turned the wheel around which is not necessary. And you need to turn it again, such that the "CE" marked wheel pad is up. But first unscrew on both sides the 7 big screws on the vertical bars above the pads. Actually, if you only need access to the tire, then you should not remove the shell that contains the control wire and can leave in the 7 big screws on that side (the side that does not have CE label pad).4. Now, carefully turn the wheel as the shell is loose now. Make sure the "CE" marked pad is up. Then carefully turn the top shell around the top of the wheel.5. Again, note how I use tape to remember where all screws came from. Such neat design: the inside shell is completely dust/water proof -- no holes are exposed. Because we unscrewed only one side of the shell in the beginning, the square metal bars are now attached to one side of the shells: If we would have screwed off both sides, the bars would all come loose.6. Now we are ready to remove the wheel -- but the other side has the thick wire that controls the wheel motor inside the wheel. Actually, this step should only be done if necessary since you must be very careful not to twist or bend the wire. Don't do this side if you are not comfortable with it. Anyway, we need to remove it carefully and not pull, twist or bend the control wire . The wire sits in a cutout in the shell and can be slowly extended; here is a view underneath the wheel:once you see it, you can slowly turn the wheel to its side and pull the wire out of the cutout (marked in red).and that is it. I must say I was tempted to open inner compartments and look at the battery and mainboard but in the end decided not to do it -- I enjoy my wheel too much at the moment and didn't want to break anything. This must wait for another time Putting it back is doing everything in reverse and being careful not to catch any wires. Also, when re-attaching the 7 screws on each vertical bar do this slowly and evenly such that they all go in lightly and are well-aligned. Only then tighten them up. Finally, don't forget to re-attach the charging wire when attaching the black padding again -- and make 100% sure red goes to red, and black to black!!!! Also, don't overtighten the two screws in the handle -- if you strip the screws you are without a handle...I did all of this to get the bike computer neatly tucked away; I'll show that in the next post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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