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Replacing old Monster board but there's a connector conflict


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Hey Everyone,

I'm replacing my old "Gotway Msuper3/3s 3/3/17" stamped board in my Monster with a replacement Jason sent that's stamped "Gotway Monster 5/19/17".  As I understand it, both wheels use the same physical board only they are flashed with different firmware.  Background:  A month ago, after a minor drop, the wheel started making a clunking sound (very similar to Sven's) if I accelerated or braked/broke too fast. Opened it up and all wiring and connectors appeared fine. Axle nuts are tight.  Jason suggested a new board and here I am. After reading of the updates Gotway has employed on their new boards, I was concerned the connectors might not agree and a simple swap wouldn't work. (Just freeing all the siliconed connectors carefully is a job in itself)  Turns out my gut was right. The new board has big 5 or 5.5mm female bullet connectors (w/no black plastic covers - unlike the existing). The old board has 4 or 4.5mm female ends. ??  I contacted Jason and he's consulting Gotway.

 

I'd like to keep the larger connectors but without the black plastic cover on these, it would seem I have to cut them off and put the boots on before crimping on new ones. I think theres a Gotway video showing how this goes. Can't remember if soldering was involved. Besides aquiring all these parts, there are a few other obstacles. I'm not that comfortable soldering, there might be a special tool required to crimp these bullets, and the motor wires are already short.

 

If someone has experience with this, I would greatly appreciate the insight.  Thanks!

IMG_9852.JPG

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On 7/22/2017 at 3:06 PM, Demian B said:

Hey Everyone,

I'm replacing my old "Gotway Msuper3/3s 3/3/17" stamped board in my Monster with a replacement Jason sent that's stamped "Gotway Monster 5/19/17".  As I understand it, both wheels use the same physical board only they are flashed with different firmware.  Background:  A month ago, after a minor drop, the wheel started making a clunking sound (very similar to Sven's) if I accelerated or braked/broke too fast. Opened it up and all wiring and connectors appeared fine. Axle nuts are tight.  Jason suggested a new board and here I am. After reading of the updates Gotway has employed on their new boards, I was concerned the connectors might not agree and a simple swap wouldn't work. (Just freeing all the siliconed connectors carefully is a job in itself)  Turns out my gut was right. The new board has big 5 or 5.5mm female bullet connectors (w/no black plastic covers - unlike the existing). The old board has 4 or 4.5mm female ends. ??  I contacted Jason and he's consulting Gotway.

 

I'd like to keep the larger connectors but without the black plastic cover on these, it would seem I have to cut them off and put the boots on before crimping on new ones. I think theres a Gotway video showing how this goes. Can't remember if soldering was involved. Besides aquiring all these parts, there are a few other obstacles. I'm not that comfortable soldering, there might be a special tool required to crimp these bullets, and the motor wires are already short.

 

If someone has experience with this, I would greatly appreciate the insight.  Thanks!

IMG_9852.JPG

See the videos on Speedyfeet's website/YouTube channel. He specifically addresses the fact that Gotway is shipping boards with incompatible bullet connectors. Ian walks you through the entire process.

You will obviously need to get additional hardware.

I've opted to bypass the connectors and solder everything together. That is an option if you want to get back to riding quickly. Here's my soldering and wiring harness work:

IMG_9328

 

Edited by Marty Backe
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7 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

See the videos on Speedyfeet's website/YouTube channel. He specifically addresses the fact that Gotway is shipping boards with incompatible bullet connectors. Ian walks you through the entire process.

You will obviously need to get additional hardware.

I've opted to bypass the connectors and solder everything together. That is an option if you want to get back to riding quickly. Here's my soldering and wiring harness work:

IMG_9328

 

Wow!  I'll check out Ian's video, but I like what you did here. I remember the post where this technique was first offered. Weird to see none of the insulating sleeves. How many miles have you put on with this setup?

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I do want to get back on the Monster because it fits my style and comfort. However, this great void created by my downed Monster has been filled by a new MSuper.  First day, I was a little disappointed. 2nd day feels much better!  Disabled tiltback and now it almost feels like it has the dominating road nature of the Monster.  I totally agree that these different sized wheels ghave different natural sweetspots in terms of cruising speed.  Sore, maybe bruised calves. 

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10 minutes ago, Demian B said:

Wow!  I'll check out Ian's video, but I like what you did here. I remember the post where this technique was first offered. Weird to see none of the insulating sleeves. How many miles have you put on with this setup?

Probably about 50 miles with a lot good hill climbing. For an unrelated problem I had to open the shell again and everything looked perfect. Instead of applying insulation I opted to go with wire isolation. That's what the yellow zip ties are doing. No matter how hot the cables they wont be able to touch.

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1 minute ago, Demian B said:

I do want to get back on the Monster because it fits my style and comfort. However, this great void created by my downed Monster has been filled by a new MSuper.  First day, I was a little disappointed. 2nd day feels much better!  Disabled tiltback and now it almost feels like it has the dominating road nature of the Monster.  I totally agree that these different sized wheels ghave different natural sweetspots in terms of cruising speed.  Sore, maybe bruised calves. 

I had a nice mountain ride with the MSuper today. It's a great wheel once you adjust to it.

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7 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

Probably about 50 miles with a lot good hill climbing. For an unrelated problem I had to open the shell again and everything looked perfect. Instead of applying insulation I opted to go with wire isolation. That's what the yellow zip ties are doing. No matter how hot the cables they wont be able to touch.

Are the ties you used better for high temp than others?. 

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6 minutes ago, Demian B said:

Are the ties you used better for high temp than others?. 

No, just regular zip ties. They aren't cinched very tight against the wires. I think the wires would have to be on fire to melt the zip ties in such a way that they all break down. Then I have bigger problems ;)

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