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Ninebot dead, tire sticking


Richard Layman
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My first post and I wish it wasn't for this. I was doing some trick riding and my 9B1 took a hard slam. Afterwards it would not turn on and the tire had a hard time spinning. I checked out the motherboard and everything looked fine, no broken wires or fried parts. I disconnected the battery but the tire still would not spin smoothing; it felt as it was sticking on spots - like it would spin and stick and then spin and stick. I reconnected the battery and the unit would turn on when the wheel was on it's side and the rings blinked red - like it should. I put the unit upright and turned it on and then it turned itself right back off and the tire felt the same. I'm afraid the hub is bad... please tell me I'm wrong.:efee8c29ce:

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Ok, I've ordered the motherboard and paid the extra for 2 day shipping but still won't be here till Monday :angry:

I've been looking into getting a second wheel for if this ever happens again. I'm glad that it's an easy "cheap" fix, but now I've lost a whole weekend and won't be able to ride when I'm used to riding everyday - it's going to drive me crazy! I've been thinking about getting a cruiser for a while now and keep my ninebot as my trick wheel - I've been doing half-n-half lately. I can go up to 18 miles on the ninebot but the 16" tire and low speed is a little annoying.

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I just got an email sent to me from Ninebot repair where they say that they can't send me the board even though they sell the board on their site. Maybe they should remove that. They say that I have to send it in to them which is not going to happen - the cost of shipping and then probably get stuck with the cost of a whole control board when they probably just repaired the one already in it... I don't think so. Fortunately I used to work in circuit board repair and can fix it myself as long as it's not a custome part. I've still got all my equipment to do the job - I just have to order the MOSFETs after I test it to verify that's the issue. I thought, instead of just replacing the bad one, I could just replace all of them with a higher quality version and better terminal compound. Has anyone done any research on the 9B MOSFETs and know of a better one?

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Well this sucks, nobody has them in stock and everybody has them as a 26 lead-time. Either I'll have to find a replacement and change all of them or .... I don't even know what my second option would be. Luckily I ordered another wheel over the weekend but it's a cruiser since I thought I was going to get the 9B fixed. I do a lot of trick riding and want a much smaller wheel for that but don't want to shell out the cash after just getting another wheel. I'm not going to wait 26 weeks to ride my trick wheel. :(

Edited by Richard Layman
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Yea, thats what I got - a KS18S but I did so after 9B accepted my order for a new control board. If had known that they would deny it, I would of probably got a KS16S. Jason taking pre-orders for the KS14S but I just don't to shell out that much after just getting the 18.

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5 hours ago, natethegreat said:

hey i have a board i can sell for parts 50 bucks plus shipping if your interested its from my old e+ the a axle broke plus i have to e+ batteries best offer takes them.

 

That's a pretty awesome offer.  Very cool of you...

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@SuperSport are the control boards easily interchangeable with different motors?  I thought new boards had to be programmed to match the motor code or something by the dealer.  Or is it just more a serial number thing?  If the board has been in use already, is it just a matter of swapping it out then?

Edited by Hunka Hunka Burning Love
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Unfortunately, the board still needs to be activated. The activation code will come from the dealer or NineBot themselves. Hopefully that's something you can still get, as it sounds like they don't want to be handing out boards anymore. The activation code is created when you give it your motors serial number. The serial number is what tells the board which wheel it is. I believe the boards for E+ and P are interchangeable, it just depends on the serial number as to what it gets set up as.

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Just to clarify, I wonder how it is able to sense that a different motor is attached?  I know with the new boards you enter the motor serial number, but for an already activated board to be transferred to the same model (say E+ to E+) motor would the already used control board know that a different motor is attached?  I don't think there's a motor ID chip that the controller reads is there?  Wouldn't it be a straight swap as long as the motor is compatible?

Edited by Hunka Hunka Burning Love
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3 hours ago, SuperSport said:

There must be some sort of chip inside the motor, because we did try.  It forced us to activate any time the motor changed.

 

3 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

Thanks for the clarification.  I wonder if there's like some sort of resistor of variable value that the control board takes a reading of from the motor.  I know with my GM key with special copy protection there's a little resistor inside.  The car senses if the right resistance is measured, and if not it will refuse to start.  They would just need a few different resistors (eg. 10?) and match them with the serial number code so that the control board has to have a matching value in order to work.  Just a guess of course.  It could be like an USB sort of chip like when you insert USB devices the computer recognizes what it is.

Could be - there was a topic not too long ago of one member wanting to replace the broken connector on the motherboard for the wires coming from the motor. He wrote something of a "missing" wire he could not track clearly? Maybe there is just one wire going to the motor connector which is there somhow "encoded" (chip, resistor or whatever...) inside the motor plug?

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You must gave contacted Ninebot USA.  My Grandson's NB1 was just repaired there. He required a new board. If you look close there is a small disclaimer on their site that states they will not ship directly to customers.

 

QXrFPLr.jpg

Edited by Rehab1
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On 7/20/2017 at 1:14 AM, SuperSport said:

That's a pretty awesome offer.  Very cool of you...

That is a great deal! @Jonathan Tolhurst should jump on that deal!

 

23 hours ago, SuperSport said:

Hopefully that's something you can still get, as it sounds like they don't want to be handing out boards anymore.

Ian of Speedyfeet states he will have a shipment of new boards in 2 months. Given his current situation with NB I have a feeling he may not be getting his boards if he does not comply with their new safety protocols which would prevent him from shipping out boards directly to customers.

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I'm just going to fix the board myself. A person gave me the site for a foriegn supplier who's supposed to have the MOSFET's on hand. I don't really want to buy a used board without knowing it's full history. If I was to send the unit back to 9B it would cost me a ton for shipping and then have to pay for the board when all they will probably do is replace the bad parts and ship it back to me. Yes, they do state on their site that they don't ship the board. I didn't see that because it was late and I saw the board, the cost, it was for an E+ and the 'ADD TO CART' button. I never thought for a second to read through the whole page because they wouldn't actually ship it - that just sounds crazy to me... it still sounds crazy to me.

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2 hours ago, Richard Layman said:

I'm just going to fix the board myself. A person gave me the site for a foriegn supplier who's supposed to have the MOSFET's on hand. I don't really want to buy a used board without knowing it's full history. If I was to send the unit back to 9B it would cost me a ton for shipping and then have to pay for the board when all they will probably do is replace the bad parts and ship it back to me. Yes, they do state on their site that they don't ship the board. I didn't see that because it was late and I saw the board, the cost, it was for an E+ and the 'ADD TO CART' button. I never thought for a second to read through the whole page because they wouldn't actually ship it - that just sounds crazy to me... it still sounds crazy to me.

Not an expert, but I think you should be able to use another mosfet, if you change them all and get something that has similar (or higher) Vds & Id, at least as low Rds(on) and same or lower gate charge (depending on the gate drive -circuitry, it could work with higher charge too if the gate drives can switch it on and off fast enough)?

Looking at the STP100N8F6 specs:

Vds: 80V
Rds(on) max: 9 milliohms (0.009 ohms)

Id: 100A
Total gate charge (typical, max is not listed): 100nC

A quick search on Digikey with as high or higher Vds, as low or lower Rds(on) etc. came up (just us an example) with TI's CSD19501KCS:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/CSD19501KCS/296-37286-5-ND/4701488

Half the gate charge (max, lower for typical), lower input capacitance, same Vds & Id, 6.6 milliohms Rds(on) max with 10V gate drive. This was just at a quick glance, with those search parameters (and TO-220 -casing), it gave me about 30+ options. But, like said, I'm not an expert, so there might be something I'm overlooking, and things I don't know (like, if the original gate driver is "matched" to 100nC gate charge, can the gate start ringing if driving a lower charge gate with high current?).

Edited by esaj
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Someone else did the very same thing and got his to work again on a Ninebot.  Then again others have tried on different wheels and discovered other burnt out components preventing a simple fix.  Let us know how your fix goes!

I surprised myself that I remembered EUC Extreme posting this.  That was quite some time ago.

 

Edited by Hunka Hunka Burning Love
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  • 1 month later...

I'm in the same boat: fried MOSFET(s), and no NB1 E+ boards to be had. May I ask what exactly you ordered from AliExpress and whether it worked for you? As long as I'm going to attempt replacing individual components, I'd like to take advantage of your success/failure experience, if possible.

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