Rehab1 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 5 minutes ago, steve454 said: I didn't know that In any case, it looks like you have thought it out and it looks like a good plan! Time will tell Steve. The center of the track will certainly take a beating. I am trying to build in some degree of lateral excursion so I can ride the ACM slightly to each side of treadmill and not burn up the track. Hopefully the small amount of travel will keep the track relatively cool. Also lots of silicone spray! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve454 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 28 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: You are beginning to sound just like @Hunka Hunka Burning Love Mr BrokeBacke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve454 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 19 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: Hopefully the small amount of travel will keep the track relatively cool. Also lots of silicone spray! Like slaloming, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Vu Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 Awesome. I actually thought of this idea too so I actually got the same non-powered treadmill. I then installed pull-up bars in my garage for me to grab onto. But like you said, I am worried about the belts and other components breaking. So I've held off on really doing anything for now. Look forward to your finished project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 Day 2 of fabrication. Vacation slowed my progress but I had to come back to town for another issue so I began working on the rig again. In the video I am assembling the 2 sliders with the pillow block bearings attached. Most of the 2x2" square metal framing is from an old exercise sit-up stand that I butchered. The pillow blocks on the slider will hold a 5/8" solid steel shaft that connects to another set of bearings mounted to the bottom of the ACM pedals. The pedals and slider need to move independently of each other so I can control both the speed of the ACM and also allow it jump over obstacles such as rope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 26 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: Day 2 of fabrication. Vacation slowed my progress but I had to come back to town for another issue so I began working on the rig again. In the video I am assembling the 2 sliders with the pillow block bearings attached. Most of the 2x2" square metal framing is from an old exercise sit-up stand that I butchered. The pillow blocks on the slider will hold a 5/8" solid steel shaft that connects to another set of bearings mounted to the bottom of the ACM pedals. The pedals and slider need to move independently of each other so I can control both the speed of the ACM and also allow it jump over obstacles such as rope. Fun to watch. How you actually attach to the wheel should be interesting. That poor KingSong in the background at the end. So lonely and forgotten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 17 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: Fun to watch. How you actually attach to the wheel should be interesting. That poor KingSong in the background at the end. So lonely and forgotten You were not suppose to see that! This 2 minute video should help to further explain this madness. I need an expert videographer like you Marty. There are no fancy transitions between my clips. Just Raw Data! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 43 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: You were not suppose to see that! This 2 minute video should help to further explain this madness. I need an expert videographer like you Marty. There are no fancy transitions between my clips. Just Raw Data! Now I understand. I'm not convinced that the rotation (lean forward/backward) will work since the wheel nominally rotates about the axle. Now you will be rotating about the pedal. For that to work your support hardware would have to allow for front-to-back movement in addition to your already existing up/down motion. Of course I'm speaking theory. In practice it may work. I'm sure you've already thought about that. I don't know if I can watch another video of yours unless you put a transition in it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 16 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: Now I understand. I'm not convinced that the rotation (lean forward/backward) will work since the wheel nominally rotates about the axle. Now you will be rotating about the pedal. For that to work your support hardware would have to allow for front-to-back movement in addition to your already existing up/down motion. The rig allows for front to back and up/ down movement. It will be complete tomorrow so I can demonstrate it properly. On your firmware thread the reason I asked about the wiring was if you strongly felt the issue was resolved I saw no need to continue building the rig. I greatly appreciate your all of your expertise and friendship! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Just now, Rehab1 said: The rig allows for front to back and up/ down movement. It will be complete tomorrow so I can demonstrate it properly. On your firmware thread the reason I asked about the wiring was if you strongly felt the issue was resolved I saw no need to continue building the rig. I greatly appreciate your all of your expertise and friendship! Now I understand. Can't wait to see more. Your ACM also may have the bad firmware (since they sent you a replacement board), right. Your rig has the potential of demonstrating that problem too. If it cuts out (hitting the rope, etc) then the fix can be validating by showing it doesn't occur when you pop in the new board. There are so many variables, but the temperature affects will be very interesting to see. I'm re-reading your ACM rebuild thread (massive) in prep for putting my ACM back together. I've opted to solder everything and apply some mechanism to keep the wires separated as best I can. Did you apply any compound to the gasket (either side) when installing the control board? Or did you use the residual 'stuff' that was already on it as you peeled it away from the control board? I just remembered Jason telling me a story as he was re-flashing my MSuper. When he re-connected the power there was a big spark and he briefly referred to the problems you had. But he just plugs them in. What was funny was that he said the KingSong wheels were really scary because they have a truly impressive spark/explosion that occurs when connecting the power. Much more so than the Gotway's. Thought you'd enjoy that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 50 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: Your ACM also may have the bad firmware (since they sent you a replacement board), right. Your rig has the potential of demonstrating that problem too. If it cuts out (hitting the rope, etc) then the fix can be validating by showing it doesn't occur when you pop in the new board. Yes the current board has the inept firmware. I have not spoken to Jason yet about sending out a new board as his plate is full. It would be interesting to test both boards without the after effects. 50 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: There are so many variables, but the temperature affects will be very interesting to see. The 1st temp probe will be installed over the 3 motor wire bullet connectors and the 2nd will be touching the mosfets. Any particular area you would like tested? 50 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: Did you apply any compound to the gasket (either side) when installing the control board? Or did you use the residual 'stuff' that was already on it as you peeled it away from the control board? The thin retangular rubber gasket positioned between the MB and the inner shell does not require any compound. It is just difficult to keep in place during reassembly. If you are referring to the grayish thermal compound located between the MB tab and pedal hanger yes I did apply an additional coat. 50 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: I just remembered Jason telling me a story as he was re-flashing my MSuper. When he re-connected the power there was a big spark and he briefly referred to the problems you had. But he just plugs them in. What was funny was that he said the KingSong wheels were really scary because they have a truly impressive spark/explosion that occurs when connecting the power. Much more so than the Gotway's. Thought you'd enjoy that. Funny! Thanks for sharing! The spark is to be expected as the voltage jumps from the pack to the MB side. When I first encountered the spark it scared the hell out of me!! Thinking I did something wrong I reversed the sequence and connected the MB first and then reconnected the remaining battery pack. Kaboom! I do like my XL90S spark arrestor. No sign of any spark when I reconnect the mainboard which has been done countless times. Wonder why the KS has a much more ominous spark? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 1 hour ago, Rehab1 said: Yes the current board has the inept firmware. I have not spoken to Jason yet about sending out a new board as his plate is full. It would be interesting to test both boards without the after effects. The 1st temp probe will be installed over the 3 motor wire bullet connectors and the 2nd will be touching the mosfets. Any particular area you would like tested? The thin retangular rubber gasket positioned between the MB and the inner shell does not require any compound. It is just difficult to keep in place during reassembly. If you are referring to the grayish thermal compound located between the MB tab and pedal hanger yes I did apply an additional coat. Funny! Thanks for sharing! The spark is to be expected as the voltage jumps from the pack to the MB side. When I first encountered the spark it scared the hell out of me!! Thinking I did something wrong I reversed the sequence and connected the MB first and then reconnected the remaining battery pack. Kaboom! I do like my XL90S spark arrestor. No sign of any spark when I reconnect the mainboard which has been done countless times. Wonder why the KS has a much more ominous spark? I think it would be interesting to see the temperature of the bundled wires that are coming out of the axle. Within a couple of inches of the axle. That's where you can no longer keep the wires separate. You would think that's where the melting would occur. Maybe there's something we don't understand which causes the temperatures to be hotter near the connectors vs down closer to the axle. Thanks for the info about the gasket. I had to peel it off the control board so I thought maybe there was an adhesive involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 5 hours ago, Marty Backe said: I think it would be interesting to see the temperature of the bundled wires that are coming out of the axle. Within a couple of inches of the axle. That's where you can no longer keep the wires separate. You would think that's where the melting would occur. Maybe there's something we don't understand which causes the temperatures to be hotter near the connectors vs down closer to the axle. Very good. I can easily place the probes into different locations for analysis. I will get started shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
US69 Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 8 hours ago, Rehab1 said: I do like my XL90S spark arrestor. No sign of any spark when I reconnect the mainboard which has been done countless times. Wonder why the KS has a much more ominous spark? really would also love to have some facts about this "rumour" ;-) I had an KS14 and upgraded it alone from 340wh to 680wh....an KS16 where i had to remove all batteries and put them in again, another KS16 where i had to repair the board and so had to unplug all powersources more than once and a KS18 where i several times for maintenance/modding plugged out the board and batteries....And never saw any trace of an spark while connecting...... And when i remember it correctly, it are the KS packs which have a even more secured BMS, which is protection against sparking/shorting on the Charge port side....while you can ruin older GW's by shorting the Charge port! The only Chance i see to produce a large spark is to connect packs which are not on the same voltage, they will try to equalize in a nanosecond. (Thats Only valid on "real" parallelling...dasiy chained you are protected here) Or by connecting a pack to a "drained" capacitor, then the same equalizing happens. Or by Connecting one pack to another pack which is "at excact" this Moment drained by a capacitor, which tries to get full again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 2 hours ago, KingSong69 said: really would also love to have some facts about this "rumour" ;-) Everyone is puzzled of what happened including me. I feel safe now with the sequence of first connecting the 2 packs together and then connecting the packs to the MB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 The data temperature logger is now installed. All that remains is attaching the pillow block bearings to the bottom of the ACM pedals. I have selected the placement of the 2 temperature probes. The first probe was installed between the bundle of motor wires at the bullet connector site. The other probe at@Marty Backe 's suggestion was to install it where the motor wires exit the axle shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 Pillow block bearings now installed on ACM pedals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 The ACM pedals were modified so the upward angulation was eliminated. I had grind away so some of pedal material to lower the pedals so the pedaks are perfectly aligned vertically at 90 degrees with the test rig mount. The pedal on the right had been modified so the upward angulation is now neutral. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 2 hours ago, Rehab1 said: The data temperature logger is now installed. All that remains is attaching the pillow block bearings to the bottom of the ACM pedals. I have selected the placement of the 2 temperature probes. The first probe was installed between the bundle of motor wires at the bullet connector site. The other probe at@Marty Backe 's suggestion was to install it where the motor wires exit the axle shaft. Seeing the cable temperatures is going to be fascinating, particularly at the two different locations on the cabling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 32 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: Seeing the cable temperatures is going to be fascinating, particularly at the two different locations on the cabling. Unfortunately the test rig failed on the second run. The treadmill belt melted directly to the end rollers and the sheet metal base. There was simply too much friction on the belt when I was riding the ACM. I had a feeling this would happen. When the belt froze up the ACM torqued CCW and ripped the bearings out of the pillow blocks! This I was not expecting! I will still be able to record temperature data while riding on the road but the adverse conditions I was going to subject the ACM to, such as going up slopes at high speeds and hitting simulated bumps, unfortunately will not happen. It was fun while it lasted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xima Lhotz Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 3 hours ago, Rehab1 said: I have selected the placement of the 2 temperature probes. The first probe was installed between the bundle of motor wires at the bullet connector site. While its good to know the temperature with the connectors it's not the hottest point. As they (connectors) has the biggest AWG the heat will be low(er) and with your insulation and shrink wrap there will be a big delay in heat transfer from the connector/cable to the sensor. The hottest part will be in direct contact with the insulation of the separate motor cables before they all enter the outer insulation (black pvc?). So if you could "peel back" the heatsleeves and place the sensor In direct contact with the motor cables (sourround them around the sensor exactly like you did at the connectors) ) then you would have a "better" reading of the actual temp. The cables will now be in free air so it will actually be hotter inside the motor cable (you could use some heat sleeve if you have to wrap around the sensor) then you would get the most accurate temperature reading simulating the "inside" of the engine cable. Will be fun to see what the experiment reveals in any case! What do you have for motor cable, is it 16 or 14 AWG? Forgot the picture :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 5 minutes ago, Xima Lhotz said: While its good to know the temperature with the connectors it's not the hottest point. As they (connectors) has the biggest AWG the heat will be low(er) and with your insulation and shrink wrap there will be a big delay in heat transfer from the connector/cable to the sensor. That is a good point. I will change over to that method after I finish licking my wounds. 7 minutes ago, Xima Lhotz said: What do you have for motor cable, is it 16 or 14 AWG? The new motor has the 14awg wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 ACM back to normal.. well sort of. I had purchased a new set of pedals from Jason just in case so they are now installed. The cabling for the temperature probes will not fit inside of the shell so I need to figure out a way to store the cables neatly on the outside while I conduct tests in the future. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 24 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: ACM back to normal.. well sort of. I had purchased a new set of pedals from Jason just in case so they are now installed. The cabling for the temperature probes will not fit inside of the shell so I need to figure out a way to store the cables neatly on the outside while I conduct tests in the future. Any ideas? How about putting a connector just outside the wheel, so you can disconnect the long cable when it's not needed? Or did I understand wrong what you were after? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 13 minutes ago, esaj said: How about putting a connector just outside the wheel, so you can disconnect the long cable when it's not needed? Or did I understand wrong what you were after? The 2 temperature probe wires are almost 1 meter long. This device is designed to be used outdoors for measuring temps deep in the ground or high above. The wires are permanently connected to the waterproof BT receiver so unfortunately I cannot disconnect them. I decided to use a plastic wire sheath and velcro to attach the wire bundle and BT module to the top side and front of the ACM. I cannot believe I forgot to write down which probe was place where! DUMMY ME! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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