HIPPO Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 I turn on my ips 0. If I forget to connect to the app within a few minutes, I can't do it later without restarting. All the informations are lost. My other wheels don't react this way, I can pair anytime, not only a few minutes after starting the wheel. What about your ips 0? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pagsy Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 I think the new version of the app does reconnect automatically, I didn't try it yet. I will tonight. Can someone confirm that ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkkn Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 I have covered 100km on my first EU.https://vimeo.com/175237691 It is an IPS Zero 300wh (ordered by 340wh). It makes about 17 km on a single charge. I will use it for 20km commuting/day. With LG MJ1 batteries it should manage 22-23km. Is it possible to use existing BMS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponne Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 On 10-8-2016 at 8:58 PM, mkkn said: I have covered 100km on my first EU.https://vimeo.com/175237691 It is an IPS Zero 300wh (ordered by 340wh). It makes about 17 km on a single charge. I will use it for 20km commuting/day. With LG MJ1 batteries it should manage 22-23km. Is it possible to use existing BMS? If you need to ride 20Km then 22Km max range looks a bit crap imo. If you have a day with a bit of headwind or colder temperatures the batt wil not last for 20 Km. I have a zero 240 and need to ride 7,5 Km normaly on flat raods i easly make 10Km but the way to my work is slightly uphill and most of the time i have headwind. some days i have to do the last 500 meter on foot. and it is stil summer. I am now upgrading to a KS16 840Wh to avoid this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkkn Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 On 2016-08-22 at 11:16 PM, Ponne said: If you need to ride 20Km then 22Km max range looks a bit crap imo. If you have a day with a bit of headwind or colder temperatures the batt wil not last for 20 Km. I have a zero 240 and need to ride 7,5 Km normaly on flat raods i easly make 10Km but the way to my work is slightly uphill and most of the time i have headwind. some days i have to do the last 500 meter on foot. and it is stil summer. I am now upgrading to a KS16 840Wh to avoid this problem. KS16 is probably among the best on the market. One problem for me is the weight and size (and maybe the price). I am a bus driver in local traffic driving 2-4 buses a day. The unit must fit in a backpack next to the driver's seat. 14 inches is probably the upper limit and 10,4kg is sometimes too much. I hope 400wh quality batteries makes bigger difference than what numbers show. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponne Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Maybe u should find a way to recharge it in the bus 12V converter or something like that 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkkn Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 It could be a good idea.I will check if there is any lightweight 24V charger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Westland Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 (edited) Just unboxed and "Bumper Wrapped" (with cues from @Stefan(O)) my new IPS ZERO ... time to download the iPhone App and take it out for a spin. Purchased the ZERO-340Wh from Jacky Yuen from CEBUYER for $664.10 (Free shipping, US base). Unboxing was a revelation in comparison to unboxing my Airwheel X3. The Airwheel is a so-so EUC but the packaging was fitted foam, with (useless) training wheels, strap, etc. The IPS ZERO is beautiful out of the box, and looks very well constructed, very light, and very thin (easy to carry like a briefcase); it came in a basic egg-carton type tray, with some bumper tape (red), air spigot, strap and wrist and elbow protection. I guess they assume you already have the training wheels . Anyway, so far so good ... I'm off to try it out now before our neighborhood fills up with Cubs fans. Edited October 22, 2016 by Chris Westland 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Westland Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 (edited) I've had my IPS Zero for a few days, and put maybe 60KM on it. I couldn't be happier with my purchase. Compared to the Airwheel, the ride on the IPS is very refined and smooth, with plenty of spare 'umph' when you need it. The Zero is really skinny, so your calves don't grab the sides (which I guess has been a problem for some owners). Turning, and stability though are much improved over the Airwheel, and I find it very easy to ride. I've been using Sport mode, but don't notice that much difference between Sport and Standard -- both feel comfortable to me, and I wouldn't change anything. I pumped the tire pressure to 3bar, which feels good (I experimented from 2bar to 3bar, and 3bar felt best). I am amazed at how easily this turns and responds to input. It's a real confidence builder. I love the weight (which is an honest 9.8KG according to my luggage scale). There is no need for a handle, as this weight is portable and comfortable to walk with given the thin profile of the Zero. It's unfortunate that the iPhone app doesn't have a WatchOS extension, as it is inconvenient to hold the phone just to find out how fast you are going. I purchased the Cyclemeter app which has very nice interfaces for both the phone and watch, and conveys a lot more data (see attached synopsis from my ride this morning). This gives me everything I need from the IPS app except the battery level, and I can look at updates, and switch on/off from the Apple Watch on my wrist. Since I'm trying to unlock the 30km/h speed limit on the IPS Zero, I still turn the IPS app on to log total distance traveled (apparently 100km is the critical distance where they let you unlock; I'm over halfway there). One of the surprising things about riding on Chicago's Lakefront bike trail is your tendency to become "velocitized" even when you are passing bikes and runners, and expecting more from the EUC. The Cyclemeter summary below shows that I was constantly bumping up against unit's speed limit, getting a tiltback at 11mph, at which point I would back off. I can see why they would not want you to unlock their 30km/h speed limit right away -- you would hit it without even being aware. Edited October 25, 2016 by Chris Westland 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarrieR Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Thank you for the review and suggestion on CEBUYER. After researching many cheaper models I have a Zero on the way! 5% off with coupon code "5%OFFOCT", limited one per customer 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wellnessias Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Dear all, I have been riding my IPS-141 zero (340 Wh) now since August and made more than 100 km with it. Recently I had a serious accident - the wheel blocked, together with the grinding noise discussed here previously. For me, this came out of nowhere: Battery level was close to 80%, road surface was fine, no pitch, no sudden acceleration, no stones or other obstacles in the wheelhouse - I was just riding smoothly and, for heaven's sake, not too fast. Anyways, landing on the road was painful enough. Result is that I have lost trust in my IPS zero: The possibility of being thrown to the road out of nothing is very scary to me. Does anybody know what to do to prevent incidents like this in future ? Is there maybe a software update? What does IPS say to those incidents? Looking forward to your replies, Patrick 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Westland Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 (edited) On 11/2/2016 at 4:19 PM, wellnessias said: Dear all, I have been riding my IPS-141 zero (340 Wh) now since August and made more than 100 km with it. Recently I had a serious accident - the wheel blocked, together with the grinding noise discussed here previously. For me, this came out of nowhere: Battery level was close to 80%, road surface was fine, no pitch, no sudden acceleration, no stones or other obstacles in the wheelhouse - I was just riding smoothly and, for heaven's sake, not too fast. Anyways, landing on the road was painful enough. Result is that I have lost trust in my IPS zero: The possibility of being thrown to the road out of nothing is very scary to me. Does anybody know what to do to prevent incidents like this in future ? Is there maybe a software update? What does IPS say to those incidents? Looking forward to your replies, Patrick Hi Patrick. I'm certainly curious to learn more about your accident (and I hope you are alright now). Have you taken your IPS Zero apart to see exactly what happened. I would be very concerned if the motor itself locked up; on the other hand if something was just thrown up inside the case, I could see with the clearances that this could create problems. Were I to hear any grinding or other noises in my EUC, I would take it apart on the next trip home and give it a complete inspection until I found the problem. These are mechanically simple devices, and I suspect the motors all come from the same place (Johnson?). IPS has unique controllers, but those won't make a grinding noise. @Jason McNeil suggested (with some authority) that this is cogging due to battery overload on acceleration. I'm experimenting carefully to see if that happens. Anyway, if you haven't taken your Zero apart for inspection, it would be great if you could and share what you find with us. Edited November 6, 2016 by Chris Westland Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pagsy Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 I hope you are alright ... This accident is very rare especially with the Zero 340wh, I have one since a year now and never had any issue with it. Could you tell us more about what happen after the accident ? was the wheel still on ? did you have to turn it on again? what is your weight? did the wheel bip? did you buy the wheel brand new ? I had the grinding noise sometime but it was clearly because I was going too fast, I was breaking too hard or I was accelerating too hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Android app question My son ordered the ips 140 and we did not do a lot of research. They guy from ips sent me the tracking number and an attached file for the app. I can't find the app on Google playstore and I am super nervous to download an app from a file. Worried about virus or malware etc. Appreciate any help as I am very much a newbie. Todd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxLinux Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 1 hour ago, Todd said: I can't find the app on Google playstore and I am super nervous to download an app from a file. For some reason IPS does not put the app in the Google play store. In the past, IPS wheels came with a QR code on a sticker on one of the pedals and/or in the instruction booklet. You would scan the QR code and it took you to the app download site. If your wheel did not come with a QR code for downloading the app, I think you'll be fine using the app sent to you by the IPS person. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dimacus Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Dear guys. is there any posibility to make "lamp" function always ON by default? coz everytime you turn off\on IPS ZERO again, lamp becomes off, and you need to open app, connect via bluetooth and turn it up by hand again. Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wellnessias Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 On 2.11.2016 at 11:22 PM, Chris Westland said: Hi Patrick. I'm certainly curious to learn more about your accident (and I hope you are alright now). Have you taken your IPS Zero apart to see exactly what happened. I would be very concerned if the motor itself locked up; on the other hand if something was just thrown up inside the case, I could see with the clearances that this could create problems. Were I to hear any grinding or other noises in my EUC, I would take it apart on the next trip home and give it a complete inspection until I found the problem. These are mechanically simple devices, and I suspect the motors all come from the same place (Johnson?). IPS has unique controllers, but those won't make a grinding noise. Anyway, if you haven't taken your Zero apart for inspection, it would be great if you could and share what you find with us. 21 hours ago, Pagsy said: I hope you are alright ... This accident is very rare especially with the Zero 340wh, I have one since a year now and never had any issue with it. Could you tell us more about what happen after the accident ? was the wheel still on ? did you have to turn it on again? what is your weight? did the wheel bip? did you buy the wheel brand new ? I had the grinding noise sometime but it was clearly because I was going too fast, I was breaking too hard or I was accelerating too hard. Hi there , after the accident I checked the wheel , looking for a stone or sth similar , but there was nothing. I had to turn off and on again as usual after Idle detection . I did not have the IPS being inspected afterwards , wouldn't know where to go ? The IPS was brand New. My weight is about 85 kg. On the one hand it is good to hear that none of you had any problems, which means that this behaviour is not a frequent thing. On the other hand there is still the fear that it may happen to me again. Gladly , the wounds of my faceplant did heal with no scars remaining. I will keep on riding my IPS, but with greater awareness and lower speed and let you know if there is any new insights . Greetings, Patrick 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Westland Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 (edited) 11 hours ago, Dimacus said: Dear guys. is there any posibility to make "lamp" function always ON by default? coz everytime you turn off\on IPS ZERO again, lamp becomes off, and you need to open app, connect via bluetooth and turn it up by hand again. Thanks! I agree that this is annoying; it's why I use Cyclemeter rather than the Iamp app. I don't think there is anyway to do this without having a separate "always on" WiFi circuit that would poll the main board, and report "off" when the wheel is off. I think IPS wants to go the other way ... everything on one board: BMS, control, WiFi, etc. Your phone will obviously drop the WiFi signal when there is no WiFi signal, so this is something that needs implementation in the wheel. Edited November 4, 2016 by Chris Westland Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Westland Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 (edited) Here are the QR codes for the XIMA Lhotz and IAMIPS apps ... this is how I got the app on my iPhone ... 1. Download the file for XIMA Lhotz in Android phones. (update on 06/10/2016) com.imagicapp.ipsxima_051709.apk Download File 2. Scan this QR code for ios or search "XIMA" in App Store (for IPS191/IPS181) 3. Search "XIMA LHOTZ" in ios App Store (for IPS191/IPS181) 4. Search "IAMIPS" in ios App Store( for IPS ZERO) or scan the QR code below: 5. Search "IAMIPS" in Android App Store (for IPS Zero) or scan the QR code below: Edited November 4, 2016 by Chris Westland 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dimacus Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 yesterday fall off my ips-zero-240. ignored beep signal on 24km/h and on 26-27 engine cut-off... was really a bummer, coz the technical characteristics say 30km/h. how to prevent this cut-offs on high speeds? coz falling down on the ground really hurts)) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 1 hour ago, Dimacus said: how to prevent this cut-offs on high speeds? coz falling down on the ground really hurts)) Yep, many of us have been there done that, and would agree it hurts ? We need more information: what was the battery state? did the wheel remain powered up? Did you have to power cycle it to get it working again? What speed does tilt back occur, or was it disabled? Lower battery will lower the maximum speed and torque available (making over leaning more likely). It should also result in beeping occurring at a lower speed as well as the wheel will detect the voltage drop under load. A full battery will make a failure during braking more likely (as there isn't anywhere for the regenerative braking power to go.). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dimacus Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 14 hours ago, Keith said: Yep, many of us have been there done that, and would agree it hurts ? We need more information: what was the battery state? did the wheel remain powered up? Did you have to power cycle it to get it working again? What speed does tilt back occur, or was it disabled? Lower battery will lower the maximum speed and torque available (making over leaning more likely). It should also result in beeping occurring at a lower speed as well as the wheel will detect the voltage drop under load. A full battery will make a failure during braking more likely (as there isn't anywhere for the regenerative braking power to go.). battery was at 70%, but the air temperature was i believe around 10-12C, there was not tilt back, because i set speed limit to 30, and as it reach 26-27 (beeping on 24) it cuts off. i tried to push to 29-30 and watching on my phone, and then in the moment i flying on the floor) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
US69 Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 16 hours ago, Dimacus said: yesterday fall off my ips-zero-240. ignored beep signal on 24km/h and on 26-27 engine cut-off... was really a bummer, coz the technical characteristics say 30km/h. how to prevent this cut-offs on high speeds? coz falling down on the ground really hurts)) Best way to prevent, would be to buy a better wheel, Sorry! to advertise a wheel with only 240wh as a 30kmh wheel? Optimistic.... Even on a 340wh Zero i would not drive 30kmh...Zero is known for cutouts..was reported here quit often.... A 16seriell2parallel System on the 240wh with only 120wh on each 16s system..can not deliver enough amps for such a high speed! And unfortunatly there is not enough space in the Zero to put more 16s packs in! my 2 cents 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dimacus Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 (edited) On 06.11.2016 at 6:06 PM, KingSong69 said: Best way to prevent, would be to buy a better wheel, Sorry! Even on a 340wh Zero i would not drive 30kmh...Zero is known for cutouts..was reported here quit often.... what wheel you can suggest, that can do "real" 25-30kmh, look like zero "design", and weight 10kg, and have a leds, and have a not high price? i try try to look at it. (im looking for another wheel -second one now). It seems that i can't trust manufacturer technical characteristics of wheels... on youtube i saw guys pushing 29 with no cutout, but i cant say what WH capacity there is used. (i just thought my wheel is defective)) for now i see only one fix - set the speed limit to 25kmh. to avoid that Edited November 8, 2016 by Dimacus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
US69 Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 3 hours ago, Dimacus said: what wheel you can suggest, that can do "real" 25-30kmh, look like zero "design", and weight 10kg, and have a leds, and have a not high price? That's not on the market.... But there is a reason......the ZERO has only a 500Watt(or550) nominal max 1000Watt Motor...and only max 32 Batterie cells... Alone the Batterie on a 64cells design (520wh or more) will be about 2 kg plus....and also set the Price higher! Wheels capable of running 30kmh normally have at least a 800 Watt nominal and/or up to 2700Watt max.... I for my part do not believe that 30kmh are manageable with this low Batterie and low power Motor... The nearest in "not heavy" design is the Inmotion V5f or V5fplus.....newest Technology, 23-27 kmh, but safe! 3 hours ago, Dimacus said: on youtube i saw guys pushing 29 with no cutout, but i cant say what WH capacity there is used. (i just thought my wheel is defective)) Sure 29-30kmh will be possible for a very short time....but not for a longer ride or under a certain Batterie capacity..... You also have to take into acccount that the ZERO is nowadays a "old" wheel...one of the first wheels to Claim 30kmh...i do not think your wheel is defective! Going/trying 30kmh on a 240wh wheel is just nuts....thats all.....and on 10-12 degrees it is near a suicide try...this temperature is good for a 20% capacity loss.... 3 hours ago, Dimacus said: for now i see only one fix - set the speed limit to 25kmh. to avoid that Under 60-70% Batterie i would even not drive 25kmh....it is still riding on a razors edge... A tipp: Try the so called "lift off" cut out Speed-test....and do that on different Batterie states.... To give you an idea: The KS16 has an "lift off cut out" of about 43-48kmh-depending on it's Batterie status (so this means empty with no Person on it) and this is designed for a safe 30kmh ride..... What does the Zero get as "lift off cut out"???? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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