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KS-14C Not balancing


Maximus

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Anyone know why my KS-14C won't balance? When the wheel turns on it is not balancing. I try to enter into pedal calibration but it seems to have no effect on the wheel, just a beep. When I turn the wheel off it seems to require me holding down the on/off button to get it to even start up but then it just holds a long beep, until I turn it off. This wheel is frustrating...thanks in advance for any help. 

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After looking around a bit, I found this post by @DaveThomasPilot and I'm almost positive that this is the problem (although my wheel is not tilting back and forth)...

Last night, before charging, the wheel was fine, then I charged for the first time.  Although I was using a Charge Doctor, I didn't have the auto-cut setup by Voltage, instead it was on the default Amt cut off at 1.0.  With my other wheel and CD the amp cut didn't seem to work so I changed to a voltage cut and have had great success ever since.  Anyway, my theory is that I overcharged it last night and that's why it is behaving the way it is now.  I'm going to try leaving the wheel on for a while to drain the battery a bit and see if that does the trick...hopefully I can follow up later today with confirmation...thanks to this forum and specifically @DaveThomasPilot for his post!

 

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16 minutes ago, kasenutty said:

any luck yet, max?

Nope, I've got it turned on with the light, but it doesn't seem to be lowering the battery level.  I'm hoping to connect it to my phone around lunch and play some music to see i that helps.  If the voltage is accurate on the app it's reading as 68.8 and I'm assuming that this needs to be down closer to ~67.2 in order to operate normally...

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21 minutes ago, Maximus said:

Nope, I've got it turned on with the light, but it doesn't seem to be lowering the battery level.  I'm hoping to connect it to my phone around lunch and play some music to see i that helps.  If the voltage is accurate on the app it's reading as 68.8 and I'm assuming that this needs to be down closer to ~67.2 in order to operate normally...

There's been a couple reported cases of voltage sensor drift on the 14C board. What's bizarre is that when the Wheels were new, they didn't have the fault, appears that if it has sat around for several months, or years, the symptoms develop.

Try popping off the side panel & using a multi-meter to get the 'true' voltage reading (or CD will give you a measurement as well) against the Voltage reported by the App. In Dave's case, I think the disparity was about 2v. Some replacement 14C boards just arrived from KS, but I probably don't have enough for all of these 'new' 14Cs which have just been offloaded onto the market...

To setup CD to do the custom voltage cut-off you need to:

  1. Disconnect the charger input from the CD
  2. Hold the button down & insert the charger port, then release
  3. Wait until it cycles to Pr2, press the button until you get to the 'Up u'
  4. Now you can set the stop voltage threshold. Maybe 64-65v would be best for your sensor challenged 14C
  5. Wait a couple seconds, then single press to get out of setting mode
  6. Image
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4 minutes ago, Jason McNeil said:

Some replacement 14C boards just arrived from KS, but I probably don't have enough for all of these 'new' 14Cs which have just been offloaded onto the market...

I don't suppose that the board has anything to do with when the wheel decides to cutoff, right :)

I don't have access to a voltage meter at the moment, but I'll see if i can get access to one...thanks for the input @Jason McNeil!

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27 minutes ago, Jason McNeil said:

To setup CD to do the custom voltage cut-off you need to:

  1. Disconnect the charger input from the CD
  2. Hold the button down & insert the charger port, then release
  3. Wait until it cycles to Pr2, press the button until you get to the 'Up u'
  4. Now you can set the stop voltage threshold. Maybe 64-65v would be best for your sensor challenged 14C
  5. Wait a couple seconds, then single press to get out of setting mode
  6. Image

Check, unfortunately I did this after over charging the wheel.  I set my voltage cut off at 65.5 per recommendations from this page to get it just under 90%, hopefully :confused1:...

http://hobby16.neowp.fr/2016/12/01/voltage-threshold-on-charge-doctor/

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19 minutes ago, Maximus said:

I set my voltage cut off at 65.5 per recommendations from this page to get it just under 90%,

Remember your control-board (probably) think's the voltage is 2v higher than what it actually is, so even at 65.5v, the 14C board thinks it's 67.7v, which is .5v over the threshold....

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1 minute ago, Jason McNeil said:

Remember your control-board (probably) think's the voltage is 2v higher than what it actually is, so even at 65.5v, the 14C board thinks it's 67.7v, which is .5v over the threshold....

Makes sense.  I'll try a lower voltage setting, and hope that I can ride this wheel at some point, so that I can ultimately try recharging and see what percentage the voltage equates to...thanks Jason!

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19 hours ago, kasenutty said:

Is this problem charge doctor related? I've only used the plain stock charger with good results.

No, it seems to be that the voltage measurement in the mainboard is off, it's reporting higher voltages than the batteries actually have. Charge Doctor can be used to terminate the charging early, so it won't charge the batteries to full.

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I can't even get the wheel to turn on now. When I press the power button quickly it does nothing. When I hold the power button down it shows the battery lights slowly increasing until full bars are displayed. As soon as I let go of the power button it just turns off. If I keep the power button held down the battery bars lights up to full then slowly decrease to none lit and then nothing. I was able to get the devise to turn on for the past two days with similar power button behavior but now I can't even get it to turn on and stay on. The head light turns on and the blue tooth button seems to work but as stated originally even when the power was on the whee wasn't balancing. I assumed this was related to overcharging but now the wheel should be getting closer to reading 67 volts on the app, but now that it won't turn on I can't really tell. Any ideas?

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17 hours ago, Maximus said:

 

I can't even get the wheel to turn on now. When I press the power button quickly it does nothing. When I hold the power button down it shows the battery lights slowly increasing until full bars are displayed. 

 

Did you state earlier in our PM that you had a crash? Have you pulled off the side covers to check for any loose electrical connections?

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58 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

Did you state earlier in our PM that you had a crash? Have you pulled off the side covers to check for any loose electrical connections?

Yup, but the wheel functioned without issues afterward, other than being low on battery. I drove it for about another few miles then had to quit. I'd open it up but haven't seen any videos showing how this is done. Does anyone have a link to oneshowing how to open the KS-14c and possibly what connections to look at?  Thanks!

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1 hour ago, Maximus said:

Yup, but the wheel functioned without issues afterward, other than being low on battery. I drove it for about another few miles then had to quit. I'd open it up but haven't seen any videos showing how this is done. Does anyone have a link to oneshowing how to open the KS-14c and possibly what connections to look at?  Thanks!

Here is a KS- 14D video that will help get you inside the wheel. Cute lady changing a tire by first removing the outer shells.

I would remove the shell on the opposite side depicted in the video in order to inspect the main board and other related connections.

 

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2 hours ago, Maximus said:

Yup, but the wheel functioned without issues afterward, other than being low on battery. I drove it for about another few miles then had to quit

I wouldn't open it up. The probability of an XT60 connector coming loose is minuscule & maintenance on the 14C is a proper itch.

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2 hours ago, Jason McNeil said:

I wouldn't open it up. The probability of an XT60 connector coming loose is minuscule & maintenance on the 14C is a proper itch.

If he doesn't open it up, there seems to be no hope of discovering or fixing what is wrong.

What do you mean by "maintenance on the 14C is a proper itch"? (That is not intended as a sarcastic question.)

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Must be a British euphemism. 

I gues a proper itsh is very uncomfortable and difficult to alleviate. 

Definition
 

A euphemism is a metaphorical or metonymic use of an expression in place of another expression that is disagreeable or offensive.

Example (English)
 
  • In Acts 2:39 and Ephesians 2:13, 17 of the Bible, the expression those that are afar off is used in place of a term of direct reference to the Gentiles.
  • Source:

    Beekman and Callow 1974 120

  • Generic
      A euphemism is a kind of
     
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    3 hours ago, Jason McNeil said:

    I wouldn't open it up. The probability of an XT60 connector coming loose is minuscule & maintenance on the 14C is a proper itch.

    Any other suggestions for me @Jason McNeil? Opening it is certainly not my preference...is there some kind of reset sequence that I should be trying?  Do you know what it means when the power button doesn't turn it on and holding it down just slowly illuminates the battery lights, then slowly they recess until not lit?

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    8 minutes ago, Maximus said:

    Any other suggestions for me @Jason McNeil? Opening it is certainly not my preference...is there some kind of reset sequence that I should be trying?  Do you know what it means when the power button doesn't turn it on and holding it down just slowly illuminates the battery lights, then slowly they recess until not lit?

    This is pure speculation on my part with intuition. 

    When you press the button the board powers up also the large bypass capacitors are fully charged. Then the BMS senses an issue and cuts of all the power coming out of the battery pack. That would explain the LEDS slowly getting dimmer. 

     

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    28 minutes ago, Maximus said:

    Any other suggestions for me @Jason McNeil? Opening it is certainly not my preference...is there some kind of reset sequence that I should be trying?  Do you know what it means when the power button doesn't turn it on and holding it down just slowly illuminates the battery lights, then slowly they recess until not lit?

    Sorry, I missed that part about no longer working.... Thought it was purely a forensic post-crash investigation exercise.

    What voltage does CD report? While the Wheel is transitioning the battery bars, does the motor momentarily engage? It's possible the fuse is partially blow, makes contact but capable of only a few milli-amps...  

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    Basic instructions for gaining access to the 14C internals:
    1) Carefully pull away some of the protective padding where the screw holes are 
    2) Unscrew side panel
    3) Examine the power inline fuses 
     
    uc?export=view&id=0B-WCZQc2gfJjX0ZlYmFpY
     
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    uc?export=view&id=0B-WCZQc2gfJjWWV0VnJrU
     
    Damn forgot to watermark the images, wonder how many minutes it will be before they're  on AliExpress....
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    4 minutes ago, Jason McNeil said:
     
    Damn forgot to watermark the images, wonder how many minutes it will be before they're  on AliExpress....

    I would love to see your non watermarked images but unfortunately they are not showing up at my end. 

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