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its a microworks 30B4 Board with Bluetooth - i use it with the egg app

i have this board not from the MIcroworks Alibaba Site - i disassembled a China One Wheel Scooter

like this

https://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/Air-Free-Shipping-Tax-Free-500W_60620593307.html?spm=a2700.7782932.1998701000.2.qBi9NU

Edited by moritzerl

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Thanks for sharing this information. And yeah, seams that MicroWorks 30B4 board is good at least it is used on electric unicycles and onewheels.

I saw your videos, like the one about your EBike :-) -- MicroWorks 30B4 should be able to drive well EBike motors, but with a different firmware with throttle input.

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thanks for info - yes the 30B4 Board is great- also ordered a board from Microworks direct and build this vehicle - the board is on the right side

later i decided the remove handlebar - its better to ride

I have one question about the 30B4 - in the onewheel above the board is pinned on the bottom side of the mainframe

but the original is turned 90 Degrees - like in unicycles or my vehicle here

can i recalibrate the sensors that i can take the unicycle board for my onewheel ?

 

 

 

lenker.jpg

Edited by moritzerl

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So nice!! If you have a video, please share, I am curious.

MicroWorks 30B4 board have a firmware version for vertical and other for horizontal. You need to ask them before buying the board, if you will use it vertical or horizontal. There are no way to change this behavior.

But I am developing the OpenSource firmware for same MicroWorks 30B4 boards and I am being using both way, vertical or horizontal, I can I do it by a define on the firmware, here the piece of code that outputs the angle value, be it on vertical or horizontal (it is possible at any position). This firmware will be great for makers like you!!!!!! <3 <3

#if EUC_ORIENTATION == EUC_ORIENTATION_VERTICAL
  angle = qfp_fatan2(acc_x, acc_y); //calc angle between X and Y axis, in rads
#else
  angle = qfp_fatan2(acc_y, acc_z); //calc angle between Y and Z axis, in rads
#endif

Follow the firmware thread:

The firmware latest state:

 

Edited by electric_vehicle_lover

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yes ! - thanks for Info - i will go to that thread

Video: I will make some soon and post to youtube

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After a long run width Onewheel  my MicroWorks 30B4 died. :( - it think its the STMxx Microcontroller.

The motor was so hot that one of the hall connectors melted. But i was able to repair the motor.

I tried to replace the Mainboard now with the 

Gotway MCM4 board horizontal Version. It works !!!! Yes surprise

But one Problem the motor turns too slow ??  Only 10 km/h at full tilt level before the board cuts off

my Motor 10 inch  / Gotway MCM4 orginal motor 14 inch i think / Motor windings problem ?

any ideas  how i can solve this ???

mcm4_connectors.png

Edited by moritzerl

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22 minutes ago, moritzerl said:

Gotway MCM4 board horizontal Version. It works !!!! Yes surprise

But one Problem the motor turns too slow ??  Only 10 km/h at full tilt level before the board cuts off

my Motor 10 inch  / Gotway MCM4 orginal motor 14 inch i think / Motor windings problem ?

any ideas  how i can solve this ???

I would say that the frmware is reading the motor speed using the hall sensors signals and that your motor have a different number of poles from the original motor, resulting in a different speed reading and so it the limit at 10km/h.

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hmmm... thanks for fast answer  - the 10km/h - is showing up from the bluetooth app - i never tried to ride -  yes i think the pole number is the problem

do you know where i can get a new  MicroWorks 30B4 board - horizontal version ?

The microworks  shop on alibaba is closed :(

 

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i know im very late to this thread. but i see you know a lot about electronics.

i need to replace my gotway control board. but how do i know wich motor wires to connect to each other. 

they have same colors as on the acm board the green blue and yellow

but the other part of the wire has no color so i dont know which wires to conect to wich?

please help 

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@Shad0z, if you want to ask someone a question, use @ and start typing their name, a drop down will appear and let you select the right one - like I have done here! In that way they get a notification, especially on an old thread like this as it is very unlikely they will otherwise see your post.

When taking something apart ALWAYS take lots of photos (who has not got a camera on their phone these days) so you can see how wires etc, go back. Unless they new board you have is very different the wires will go to the same physical location regardless of colour.

If all else fails getting the wires wrong is most likely to just cause it to run backwards or oscillate back and forwards. Secure the wheel upright, perhaps by setting the foot plates on blocks with the tyre clear of the ground and if powering it up causes it to go mad, quickly turn it off again and try another combination.

Or, rather than post on a thread talking about a generic control board that may not be like yours at all, post on the Gotway thread and ask the owners if anyone can send you a photo of the connections.

Edited by Keith

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47 minutes ago, Keith said:

@Shad0z, if you want to ask someone a question, use @ and start typing their name, a drop down will appear and let you select the right one - like I have done here! In that way they get a notification, especially on an old thread like this as it is very unlikely they will otherwise see your post.

When taking something apart ALWAYS take lots of photos (who has not got a camera on their phone these days) so you can see how wires etc, go back. Unless they new board you have is very different the wires will go to the same physical location regardless of colour.

If all else fails getting the wires wrong is most likely to just cause it to run backwards or oscillate back and forwards. Secure the wheel upright, perhaps by setting the foot plates on blocks with the tyre clear of the ground and if powering it up causes it to go mad, quickly turn it off again and try another combination.

Or, rather than post on a thread talking about a generic control board that may not be like yours at all, post on the Gotway thread and ask the owners if anyone can send you a photo of the connections.

i have taken photos but the problem is the cables dont sit a certain place they have a connector in the middle of the cable and i disconnected them and now my only option is to find out how to measure the voltage or something to find out which goes where

and the @Keith (no drop down menu appered) thing doesnt always work for me for some reason...

and i think if i connect them backwards. what most likely would happen is that it would short circuit the motor.. and its a 50/50 chance!

not gonna try that...

but i can maybe look at the way i cut the rubber that holds the connector together to see wich one goes where but no luck yet

Edited by Shad0z

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2 hours ago, Shad0z said:

and i think if i connect them backwards. what most likely would happen is that it would short circuit the motor.. and its a 50/50 chance!

Ah - no you do not understand how these motors are wired, they can only be wired as a star (Y) or delta ? like below, probably star as that gives more torque at lower RPM.

IMG_0021.thumb.PNG.07e23ba7819d724dc6aced086b08bbe1.PNG

Your 3 wires connect at (1), (2) & (3) or A,B & C in the above diagram, you cannot short circuit them. Nor, if you look carefully at the above diagram can you measure anything useful as there is exactly the same coils with the same VERY LOW resistance between ANY two of the three wires. 

On our model planes we simply connect the 3 wires in any order to the speed controller and, if the motor runs backwards, we reverse any two of the three - job done.

Unfortunately, it is not quite that simple with our EUC’s as there are separate Hall effect transistors which tell the controller which coil to energise at which point in the rotation (we don’t need this in our planes as they detect by the back emf down the same coils as the magnets spin - I.e. our aircraft motors don’t spend lots of time at zero RPM so do not need separate sensors).

The only danger is the Hall effect transistors sending confusing messages if the coils are wrongly connected, this could theoretically (I’ve never deliberately miswired a sensored motor) cause the wheel to oscillate back and forwards which might result in very high currents being applied to the coils (similar to if the wheel gets jammed in a pothole and you continue to lean forward hard). That is why you need to be ready to quickly turn it off. If the wheel is held vertical it shouldn’t try to push too hard.

Bottom line is, if you cannot find someone who has a picture of the correct layout it is going to be difficult to measure or work out which coil is which in any other way.

Edited by Keith

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I put my 14c "3 wires" together wrong and blew a fuse, which made me think my control board was bad for three weeks one time :D

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1 hour ago, Keith said:

Ah - no you do not understand how these motors are wired, they can only be wired as a star (Y) or delta ? like below, probably star as that gives more torque at lower RPM.

IMG_0021.thumb.PNG.07e23ba7819d724dc6aced086b08bbe1.PNG

Your 3 wires connect at (1), (2) & (3) or A,B & C in the above diagram, you cannot short circuit them. Nor, if you look carefully at the above diagram can you measure anything useful as there is exactly the same coils with the same VERY LOW resistance between ANY two of the three wires. 

On our model planes we simply connect the 3 wires in any order to the speed controller and, if the motor runs backwards, we reverse any two of the three - job done.

Unfortunately, it is not quite that simple with our EUC’s as there are separate Hall effect transistors which tell the controller which coil to energise at which point in the rotation (we don’t need this in our planes as they detect by the back emf down the same coils as the magnets spin - I.e. our aircraft motors don’t spend lots of time at zero RPM so do not need separate sensors).

The only danger is the Hall effect transistors sending confusing messages if the coils are wrongly connected, this could theoretically (I’ve never deliberately miswired a sensored motor) cause the wheel to oscillate back and forwards which might result in very high currents being applied to the coils (similar to if the wheel gets jammed in a pothole and you continue to lean forward hard). That is why you need to be ready to quickly turn it off. If the wheel is held vertical it shouldn’t try to push too hard.

Bottom line is, if you cannot find someone who has a picture of the correct layout it is going to be difficult to measure or work out which coil is which in any other way.

hmmm i see. i will look again to see if there is no kind of markings on the cable

but the problem is its just 3 cables bundled together that are soldered to the control board. and at the end of those cables opposite side of control board there is split in the cable where there is a conector and the cable keeps going afterwards

so i cant find a picture of the layout

but i will investigate as closely to try and find out wich cable goes where

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