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Brand new Gotway MSuper V3S+ 1300Wh... fail


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Thank you @KingSong69, @Radislav, @OliverH, @meepmeepmayer, for all your brains together to figure this out.

Great that we can rely on the community knowledge.

 

@Jane Mo Apologies for my harsh judgement, although i still think that you need to improve the Quality Control of your production line, is not ok that i need to review all the connections in the wheel to make work, from a brand new product and by the way the only possibility to control the wheel is trough the app and this doesn't work. Let me know how can i give this feedback to the people that can help you do the change to improve the quality and reliability.

 

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On 4/5/2017 at 1:49 PM, Noillek said:

I just open the wheel, since I got no reply from Gotway. Reviewed all connections and cables... and tacharam, wheel is working as expected. Went for a ride and everything seems to be fine.

So was it due to a loose connection somewhere?  Did you determine exactly what was causing your wheel not to work out of the box?

I'd be a little concerned about an intermittent problem that could reappear while going at speed or up a steep hill climb... There's lots of vibration and shock that these wheels experience while riding so you want to be absolutely sure nothing fails.

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On 4/5/2017 at 1:24 PM, Noillek said:

To be honest I think that they send me a 67v version it seems pretty accurate the app for both V8 and the Msuper. I just don't understand what is going on with Jane that doesn't reply any question.

1) the problem with a brand new wheel

2) got a 67V when I clearly stated that I wanted the 80V version and for 150€ difference for the 1600wh and 80V I would easily pay the difference.

 

Right now I feel very unsatisfied customer, I got a damage product and not exactly what I asked.

If your charging port on the wheel has 4 pins then you have the 84 volt version.

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14 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

So was it due to a loose connection somewhere?  Did you determine exactly what was causing your wheel not to work out of the box?

I'd be a little concerned about an intermittent problem that could reappear while going at speed or up a steep hill climb... There's lots of vibration and shock that these wheels experience while riding so you want to be absolutely sure nothing fails.

@Hunka Hunka Burning Love 

Wheel Intervention:

1) open the wrong side, the one that have a Battery and nothing more, i unplugged and re-plug all connectors that i found,need to say that all feel very loose, maybe you can advise me if i can/should reinforce the connectors with tape or silicone.

2) Then i went to the side where the Main Board is and same procedure passing as well to engine new connectors and see if they where all tight, wheel still didnt work at this point. When i got to the connections from all the cables to the main board... the one that comes from the engine with the sensors if i touch it the wheel would gain balance. So i think that made the trick i just pressed the connector all the way in (despite all that silicone stuff that makes resistance on opposite way). Tried again and working like a charm.

Tests:

Did some rides on my backyard, heat check, gravel check, leaning check, acceleration check.... all at slow speed, after that when to the woods, made small jumps, passed on roots, accelerate fast and brake fast (feels smoother to fall in the woods, was also using my Motocross gear). everything looked be working fine.

Yesterday pushed the wheel for a second until 47km/h and it went fine... just very scary, with the thought that if it switch off now i will not enjoy the pain.

Maintenance Planned:

So far everything is ok, hope to keep this way, and decided that every 100km, might be a good idea to open the wheel and check everything again.

 

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So you're telling us that you had to open your wheel and check all connections on your new wheel before it worked?

I find that frightening. I am tempted to solder all my connections but I have only soldered little things like drones and other small and useless electronics. A wheel that I ride on...one wonders if they are doing more damage by pre-emptively soldering connections.

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40 minutes ago, LanghamP said:

So you're telling us that you had to open your wheel and check all connections on your new wheel before it worked?

I find that frightening. I am tempted to solder all my connections but I have only soldered little things like drones and other small and useless electronics. A wheel that I ride on...one wonders if they are doing more damage by pre-emptively soldering connections.

I guess that the connections do the job, to avoid to became loose with time and vibrations, i think that the best would be to remove all the silicone and apply again in a way that keeps both ends together... temped to that for all connections, since tape i'm afraid that will melt.

Another week point that i notice is that screws from the pedals are very loose, even if you tightened up it doesn't solve, today i plan to put loctite in the screws to keep them in place.

Didn't play with anything else and the covers seemed to be pretty tight so i will not worry with that same goes for the Batteries. after my 100km mark will open an review everything and see if there is any loose stuff. It might also not be good to open the wheel so often as it is all plastic material. Maybe a good maintenance schedule would be.

0 Km / 0 Miles Mark

1) Plug/Connectors Overall Check

2) tightness of screws

100 Km / 62 Miles Mark

1) Plug/Connectors Overall Check

2) tightness of screws

500 Km / 310 Miles Mark

1) Clean up

2) Plug/Connectors Overall Check

3) tightness of screws

1000 Km / 620 Miles Mark

1) Clean up

2) Plug/Connectors Overall Check

3) tightness of screws

4) Pedal grip paper replacement

5) Tire thread depth

Something this type could be recommended as per wheel maintenance, to ensure reliability and comfort of mind.

 

 

 

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7 hours ago, Noillek said:

When i got to the connections from all the cables to the main board... the one that comes from the engine with the sensors if i touch it the wheel would gain balance. So i think that made the trick i just pressed the connector all the way in (despite all that silicone stuff that makes resistance on opposite way). Tried again and working like a charm.

Glad to hear that you found the source of the problem.  You might want to double check that the wire to the connector has a sound connection as that seems a little strange why there was a disconnect in the first place.  Usually if connectors are even partially plugged in there should be some contact with the pins to the female connectors in the plug.  I would carefully inspect things and then reapply some silicon sealant or whatever they use to join things together well.  The hall sensors are vital for proper functioning of the wheel, and any questionable electrical contact could be problematic.

Imagine wheeling out 40 kms some place and accidentally dropping the wheel during a crash or hopping down a curb.  That shock to the components can be a challenge to any weak spots.  You don't want to be stuck somewhere lugging your wheel home.

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If the problem got fixed with applying slight pressure to the connector and not a loose connector, I would suspect there is a defect on the connector harness. 

- cold solder of connector pins to the board. 

- hall sensor wires o believe have crimped pins inserted on a plastic shell than then connects to the recepatacle on the board.  The wires could have been crimped wrong and the pin does not lock properly on the retaining shell. Also the crimp could be defective. Best verification is to tug on each wire gently to make sure the wires won't come out. Also disconnect from board and see integrity of the receptacle and the soldered pins. @Noillek if you just pushed and the connector did not move and clicked then I would be very worried 

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Hi all,

Thank you for the tips that you all gave... after now 133km/83miles, I found a few things... i didn't completely fixed the problem... or at least is something that i don't understand.

My specs, 76kg/168lbs "dry" weight and 174cm/5.7feet (height also influences on the weight center of gravity and pendular weight for wheel recovery, smaller and lighter the better), fully geared around 3kg/6.7lbs extra, downhill full face helmet, motorbike casual hoodie with protections, motorbike jeans with knee pads, motorbike gloves.

 

1) wheel keep stuttering and gets worst the lower the battery gets

2) Only happens by putting weight in the right pedal

3) apparently works everything fine if i'm moving, stutters only at low speed without load on the wheel or on the start

 

Besides this remarks,

I) I did manage to reach for 1 brief or 2 seconds the top speed of 47km/h - 29miles/h haven't feel any weird behavior and feels pretty strong all the way.

II) noticed that the battery from 100% to 70% approx. pedals are in the angle that i setup and allow me to make use of all the speed and power available, from 70% ownwards pedal angle start to lower forward making very difficult to accelerate.

III) the lowest that i drained the battery was 32% and until this level doing often 40km/h - 25miles/h with no problem, besides that i needed to make a very exaggerated body movement to get to that speed, based on the point mention above II) behavior.

 

All in all i'm very happy with the wheel and drives great, agile and stable (while moving), comfortable pedals and strong engine, struggle still to find a way to drop the wheel in the ground and to carry it using the handle bar, not strong/stable enough, keep using my V8 for daily commute and the MSuper V3S for long or fast rides.

By the way i only ride the MSuper fully geared what makes it not practical for every day use.

 

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13 minutes ago, Noillek said:

1) wheel keep stuttering and gets worst the lower the battery gets

2) Only happens by putting weight in the right pedal

Hmmmh...can you perhaps post a Video of this behaviour?

I have only on thing in mind:

A broken or lose wheelnut on the right side! which leads to this stuttering 

14 minutes ago, Noillek said:

II) noticed that the battery from 100% to 70% approx. pedals are in the angle that i setup and allow me to make use of all the speed and power available, from 70% ownwards pedal angle start to lower forward making very difficult to accelerate.

i would also say that with a lower Batterie the V3 or Gw's have a tendancy to get a bit weaker pedals...but not that they go down in General...

Have you tried a calibration? Or better some calibrations (look at speedyfeet Video how to calibrate correct)

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4 hours ago, KingSong69 said:

Hmmmh...can you perhaps post a Video of this behaviour?

I have only on thing in mind:

A broken or lose wheelnut on the right side! which leads to this stuttering 

i would also say that with a lower Batterie the V3 or Gw's have a tendancy to get a bit weaker pedals...but not that they go down in General...

Have you tried a calibration? Or better some calibrations (look at speedyfeet Video how to calibrate correct)

Thank you, will try to calibrate once again

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21 hours ago, KingSong69 said:

Hmmmh...can you perhaps post a Video of this behaviour?

I have only on thing in mind:

A broken or lose wheelnut on the right side! which leads to this stuttering 

i would also say that with a lower Batterie the V3 or Gw's have a tendancy to get a bit weaker pedals...but not that they go down in General...

Have you tried a calibration? Or better some calibrations (look at speedyfeet Video how to calibrate correct)

Yesterday did the calibration, but for some reason... it started to stutter even harder and more often, decided that is not safe anymore and i will open the wheel again tonight and do a more in depth check of screws and cables. will let you know how it goes.

Thanks

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Is the control board on the right side?  I wonder if the pressure on the pedal could be somehow affecting an exposed wire (eg. torn insulation) creating a short along one of the hall effect sensor wires.  Maybe check the behaviour with the side panel off, and gently wiggle the cable harness coming out of the axle shaft.  See if the stutter stops or goes depending on how the harness is moved.

Can you get warranty support for your purchase?  I would worry if the problem arises in the middle of a ride 30 km somewhere in the middle of nowhere or if the wheel drops you randomly.  Apparently the hall sensors might not be critical during higher speeds, but I would think they are still critical to maintain balance.  Shorted wiring can confuse the balance routine of the control board resulting in the jittery behaviour I think.

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4 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

Is the control board on the right side?  I wonder if the pressure on the pedal could be somehow affecting an exposed wire (eg. torn insulation) creating a short along one of the hall effect sensor wires.  Maybe check the behaviour with the side panel off, and gently wiggle the cable harness coming out of the axle shaft.  See if the stutter stops or goes depending on how the harness is moved.

Can you get warranty support for your purchase?  I would worry if the problem arises in the middle of a ride 30 km somewhere in the middle of nowhere or if the wheel drops you randomly.  Apparently the hall sensors might not be critical during higher speeds, but I would think they are still critical to maintain balance.  Shorted wiring can confuse the balance routine of the control board resulting in the jittery behaviour I think.

I believe that you are pretty close to whats going on... in terms of warranty i don't think that will help much, i tried to contact Gotway in so many ways and never got an answer. After @Jane Mo sold me the wheel there has been silence, but i also contacted their technical service and no reply. I will open everything again and will try to get the cables secured with hot glue to the frame, and review axle main screw to avoid any movement from the pedal. Will report the operation and then lets see if gets better. Since last time it last around 130km "safe". Lets see if i can make this time to last longer.

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You could maybe try @Linnea Lin Gotway, but if Jane sold it to you she might be responsible for after sales support.  I would be careful not to do too much until they can confirm the problem and authorize any tinkering unless you feel confident there is not much to lose in proceeding.   Maybe take some video evidence to show them if they do contact you.  They did eventually help @Kevin Grandon with his ACM shell issues a while back, but you might have to be persistent though.

Check all lengths of wiring for any pinches or breaks especially the thinner ones for the sensors.  Verify connectors are sound and seated correctly.  With all the goop everywhere it might be tricky to verify connection continuity.

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2 hours ago, Noillek said:

After @Jane Mo sold me the wheel there has been silence, but i also contacted their technical service and no reply.

IIRC I read in this forum that Jane left Gotway and the technical service might just not be able to understand English emails (not an excuse, just an explanation). 

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28 minutes ago, Mono said:

IIRC I read in this forum that Jane left Gotway and the technical service might just not be able to understand English emails (not an excuse, just an explanation). 

Don't be fooled! Gotway reps fully understand English. What they don't understand is how to properly conduct customer service!! I have been waiting weeks for a reply from Mr. Lu!

Good Luck but don't hold your breath for a response!

 

From: service_gotway@kebye.com
To: danielcoleco@aol.com
CC: 2138282486@qq.com
Sent: 4/8/2017 5:13:59 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time
Subj: Re: Re: Gotway ACM 1600 hall sensors
 
Hello, Daniel, 
 
Thanks very much for your information.
We've checked, it is not a product from Foreign Trade Department, please contact my colleague Mr. Lu for  more information:
GotWayAftersales<2138282486@qq.com>
 
Hope you have a good day.
 
Sincerely,
Donald

 

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This might need to be moved to the Off Topic Overload, Reptiles, etc thread:

It's kind of mind-boggling how a company can sell products that cost thousands of dollars and offer very limited warranty support.  Who does that?  Gotway doesn't mind selling directly to customers, but they don't seem to want to support them in a timely manner.  Maybe they figure that the less expensive sales directly to customers doesn't include any warranty if purchased directly from the factory?  I guess they are selling well enough that they don't need to have a good direct sales reputation?

I think it boils down to this: Warranty support costs them money out of pocket to mail out replacement parts. It also costs time to pay staff to deal with customers, or it diverts them from other money making tasks.  If they offer limited to no warranty support they save on bottom line costs.  They made the sale already so why make an effort after the fact.  They have that distance advantage and no real fear of any reprisals.  Only their rep is on the line, and people still seem to be buying their wheels up left and right regardless.

Saving a few dollars here on warranty support, but losing customer faith in the company in the long run is quite short-sighted.  It could just be the way business is done in China as they seem to build extravagant buildings but then let them fall in disrepair with no maintenance.  If I ever buy a Gotway in the future, it definitely would be through a dealer rather than directly from the factory as I'm not that much of a gambling man.  I like to save money, but I can also see how a penny saved can become a pound foolish.

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19 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

This might need to be moved to the Off Topic Overload, Reptiles, etc thread:

It's kind of mind-boggling how a company can sell products that cost thousands of dollars and offer very limited warranty support.  Who does that?  Gotway doesn't mind selling directly to customers, but they don't seem to want to support them in a timely manner.  Maybe they figure that the less expensive sales directly to customers doesn't include any warranty if purchased directly from the factory?  I guess they are selling well enough that they don't need to have a good direct sales reputation?

I think it boils down to this: Warranty support costs them money out of pocket to mail out replacement parts. It also costs time to pay staff to deal with customers, or it diverts them from other money making tasks.  If they offer limited to no warranty support they save on bottom line costs.  They made the sale already so why make an effort after the fact.  They have that distance advantage and no real fear of any reprisals.  Only their rep is on the line, and people still seem to be buying their wheels up left and right regardless.

Saving a few dollars here on warranty support, but losing customer faith in the company in the long run is quite short-sighted.  It could just be the way business is done in China as they seem to build extravagant buildings but then let them fall in disrepair with no maintenance.  If I ever buy a Gotway in the future, it definitely would be through a dealer rather than directly from the factory as I'm not that much of a gambling man.  I like to save money, but I can also see how a penny saved can become a pound foolish.

With social media and forums, we can shut down a company if all of us decided to not support a particular brand.  They better understand that. Look at united way.  It is going to cost them millions to fix one bad video.

I am a GOTWAY owner but I already not happy because of the stupid useless app they make for the Iphone. I already descided to try to find a different company for my next wheel I have a 14 and want a 16 or 18 with sustainable higher top speed. If I find something else comparable I will not buy. I love the ACM and Msuperv3 at 84 volts.  But I find the RockWheel GT16 to be a good alternative to compare with. and if Inmotion or Solowheel descide to make a 40kph capable wheel I would try to buy from them if they can keep the price competitive. Inmotion and Solowheel look to have the most advance construction and light materials, magnets and metals. But their products are too expensive for me. I would pay more if they offered higher speeds. 12mph is just too slow.

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9 hours ago, Rehab1 said:

Don't be fooled! Gotway reps fully understand English. What they don't understand is how to properly conduct customer service!! I have been waiting weeks for a reply from Mr. Lu!

Good Luck but don't hold your breath for a response!

 

From: service_gotway@kebye.com
To: danielcoleco@aol.com
CC: 2138282486@qq.com
Sent: 4/8/2017 5:13:59 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time
Subj: Re: Re: Gotway ACM 1600 hall sensors
 
Hello, Daniel, 
 
Thanks very much for your information.
We've checked, it is not a product from Foreign Trade Department, please contact my colleague Mr. Lu for  more information:
GotWayAftersales<2138282486@qq.com>
 
Hope you have a good day.
 
Sincerely,
Donald

 

can someone that can actually has made contact with GOTWAY let them know about our forum?

 

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Don't get me wrong - I want Gotway to thrive and become a world leader in EUC making.  I don't want this to turn into a Gotway bashing thread, but I think their reputation will continue to suffer if they don't step up to the plate and improve quality control, beef up design elements, and support their customers.  I am dying to buy an ACM16 due to the Gotway King of Naked Backward Riders ;), but at the same time I don't want to be the guy who has an intermittently functioning wheel or one I cannot turn off straight out of the box unless I have some solid warranty support behind it.  I love the fact that Jason McNeil is carrying Gotway as he's got a solid rep.

I think Gotway needs to develop an improved company mission goal that they can aim for.  They already have leading edge products in terms of abilities, but they need to back them up and adopt a higher quality product ideal and a upper level customer service model.  Maybe their current methods are fine for the Asian market so they don't feel any need to improve things.  I suppose if the majority of my market customers don't care that much about warranty or quality, why change for a small number of westerners?  Sometimes it can be all about perspective.

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1 minute ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

Don't get me wrong - I want Gotway to thrive and become a world leader in EUC making.  I don't want this to turn into a Gotway bashing thread, but I think their reputation will continue to suffer if they don't step up to the plate and improve quality control, beef up design elements, and support their customers.  I am dying to buy an ACM16 due to the Gotway King of Naked Backward Riders ;), but at the same time I don't want to be the guy who has an intermittently functioning wheel or one I cannot turn off straight out of the box unless I have some solid warranty support behind it.  I love the fact that Jason McNeil is carrying Gotway as he's got a solid rep.

I think Gotway needs to develop an improved company mission goal that they can aim for.  They already have leading edge products in terms of abilities, but they need to back them up and adopt a higher quality product ideal and a upper level customer service model.  Maybe their current methods are fine for the Asian market so they don't feel any need to improve things.  I suppose if the majority of my market customers don't care that much about warranty or quality, why change for a small number of westerners?  Sometimes it can be all about perspective.

Maybe that is the issue. The US market is very low as a percent of.  Then Asian riders only weigh like 75lbs. And they dont ride like mad men because in China they will disappear you and in Singapore they cane your ass red.

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19 minutes ago, Carlos E Rodriguez said:

can someone that can actually has made contact with GOTWAY let them know about our forum?

 

Gotway employees are already members of the forum. Either their English is too poor, they don't have time, or they don't care because we represent a tiny fraction of their market.

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@Carlos E Rodriguez Don't forget Kingsong, they are the obvious, better quality Gotway alternative - and closest to the same performance/style of wheels.

@Noillek Hope you get your wheel fixed! Let us know what you did, how everything went and where you need tips - this thread may help a lot of future people.

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Another autopsy on the MSuper, my suspicious was correct, bad contact from the sensor cables, for everything else its ok even if it moves slightly but theres 1 or 2 cables couldn't identify precisely which exactly, as long they move a little bit, creates the stuttering, i guess is very sensitive the signal from the hall sensor, and any resistance or bad contact will make the wheel react like that.

Removed the white silicone as much as i could and gave a "bath" of hot glue hopping that will last as long as possible the cables in place... problem fixed, for now.

In case the cable connectors get loose again i will weld the sensor cable directly to the control board connector and it shouldn't have any more problems, but for now will try just what i did that was hot glued as much cable as possible to immobilize the movement of the connectors.

I did a video of all the procedures, will try to edit today and post here.

 

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