Jump to content

Msuper V3S+ stopped spinning and balancing while riding


swvision

Recommended Posts

In this one photo of the original, you can see where that one winding is barely bonded at the tip with the rest of the wires.  That's scary.  I don't think that's GotWay's fault, but still troublesome.

2017_02_01.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, SuperSport said:

In this one photo of the original, you can see where that one winding is barely bonded at the tip with the rest of the wires.  That's scary.  I don't think that's GotWay's fault, but still troublesome.

2017_02_01.png

oooh, so on the other side of the motor cables, in the motor itself, there also could be problems?

Nice...i thought that would only happen on the board side....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 31 января 2017 г. at 9:19 PM, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

I wonder if using a higher melting temperature solder would help.  I think it was discussed before that perhaps a connector that incorporates both mechanical and chemical retention would be best for these critical components.  If I bought a Gotway, the first thing I would do would be to open it up and identify all the possible points of failure.  Maybe adding silicone and heat shrink tubing to help physically join the connector end to the wire would be added insurance.  If that solder though is not of a high enough grade to withstand the temperatures through the connector it might be best to swap the connectors out and redo them.  @Cloud how did your V3 repair go with the connectors you bought?

Man it worked great. I bought the big butt connectors, definetely an overkill considering th gauge of wire Gotway used for these motor connections. I soldered both ends and hvent had a problem since. Let hope i wont in the future either

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 30 января 2017 г. at 10:51 PM, KingSong69 said:

again and again and again Gotway does not stop with this bullshit.....also thought of this fault when i read about that stop:

 

 

This also recently happened to another forum member. Exactly the same way it happened to me

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update on the wire situation: 

Finally got some time today to do this. I made sure i got a good solder on the connectors and everything's running perfectly. I also made sure to put some 100% silicone on the back of the bullet connectors to hold them in place. I will eventually change them to banana connectors like @EUC Extreme suggested but I'll have to buy another wheel to be able to make this one more study, I wont just stop at the connectors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, swvision said:

Update on the wire situation: 

Finally got some time today to do this. I made sure i got a good solder on the connectors and everything's running perfectly. I also made sure to put some 100% silicone on the back of the bullet connectors to hold them in place. I will eventually change them to banana connectors like @EUC Extreme suggested but I'll have to buy another wheel to be able to make this one more study, I wont just stop at the connectors.

Fantastic. Glad you that you're back in business. Must feel good to know that for sure you won't have to worry about cable problems while riding.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

Fantastic. Glad you that you're back in business. Must feel good to know that for sure you won't have to worry about cable problems while riding.

Yeah, I got a solid bond on the solder, made sure to add some silicone to hold things in place. Should hold well for our next hill climb; however, I'll still do a visual inspection before going on long trips. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might be overkill, but you might consider placing heat shrink tubing to span some wire and some of the connector along with silicon underneath to waterproof somewhat and physically have an additional joining mechanism to prevent any disconnect of the wire from the end connector.  Usually heat shrink tubing shrinks tight enough to grip pretty well onto wire by itself.  

 I don't know if temperatures are rising high enough to melt solder, but even if that happens the physical joint theoretically would still hold things together.  I know some computer connectors have a little extension down the prong where you can fold over the two tangs to grip onto the wire.  You then solder the wire to the connector for a double secure joint.  For these self-balancing wheels, the electrical connections which pass high levels of current need to be foolproof to avoid failure and injury.  I think some manufacturers need to review the weak points, and customers need to report their issues back to them.  It could be a matter of them just not getting enough feedback to justify a dramatic change in their manufacturing process.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

It could be a matter of them just not getting enough feedback to justify a dramatic change in their manufacturing process

I believe that could be part of it. Their temps are lower and their riders are lighter. 

There is still the lack of quality soldering skills on some of them though. That needs to be dealt with. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While a bad connection could get pretty hot with high currents, I have my doubts about the solder actually melting due to temperatures (for "eutectic" tin/lead solder, the melting point is around 183 degrees Celcius, but due to RoHS, they must use lead-free solder, which has higher melting point, above 200 degrees C), more likely a cold solder joint... For the connection to "wet" properly, not only must the solder melt but also the copper wires must heat high enough.

As for actually causing the solder to melt, one of my current projects involves shooting above 1000A (1kA) at highest for a fraction of a second through a couple of cables, which, with bad solder joint, could maybe melt the connection (or with too thin cable, fuse the strands inside it). As usual, I went overboard and got 16mm^2 silicone cable (around 5 AWG), that should withstand 27000A of current without fusing for about 1/30th of a second, and they will bonded directly to a larger copper plate on one end and either a tungsten carbide or steel electrode on the other... :D  Of course the pulse I use won't last but about a millisecond, and even a smaller prototype I made with 4mm^2 cable and a couple of solder iron tips as electrodes didn't show problems (but the spikes were smaller anyway, I need to wait for a dozen of 47000uF caps to make the actual capacitor bank, but my distributor just informed me this week that the shipment will be 12 WEEKS late, originally it was meant to arrive last week, <_<).  Might need a small butane/propane torch for soldering the final cables & electrodes, as the stuff can sink so much heat. Whoops, getting carried away on off-topic, sorry. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
On 1/31/2017 at 9:01 PM, MaxLinux said:

It seems there must be industrial or maybe scientific applications in which the solution to this problem has already been figured out. Gotway engineers should do some research.

The only engineer at gotway makes plastic parts.

the rest are purchased components. 

They don't even know what crimping is. 

They take a solder connector and smack it with a impact press a couple of times until operator feels it looks crimped. LOL. RIDICULOUS!

these wheel are put together by rice farmers moving from job to job. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/3/2017 at 8:38 AM, swvision said:

Yeah, I got a solid bond on the solder, made sure to add some silicone to hold things in place. Should hold well for our next hill climb; however, I'll still do a visual inspection before going on long trips. 

I have a solution. Put a clear cover so you can see the wires glowing then you can stop before they melt. LOL.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...