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Some first impressions and questions about my new ACM... (first wheel!)


meepmeepmayer

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3 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:
  • turning, how does it work????:P but I'm already getting better (I say that to myself)

Just put your entire body into the turn. Point you outer knee in front of the inner knee, twist the hips according to this, push your outer shoulder forward and look at the center of your turning circle. And don't forget to lean into the curve while still leaning forward a bit. Don't try this at high speed, this is the technique for tight low speed turns. Took me some hours of practice until I could turn with a radius below one meter... It all gets better with time!

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Thanks for sharing. The wheel is leaning upright against the wall. Battery is fully loaded (charger light goes from red to green).

The old Gotway app (electro-sport Google Play version) shows battery at 70%.

Wheellog shows the battery at 72% and voltage at ~62V (also under load = doing in place "swings").

The uppermost battery light (1 red 2 yellow 2 green) is not green (the LED works though, it does colors when the wheel is moving).

 

Is there a problem with the batteries? Maybe one of them is not connected? Shouldn't the voltage be 84V? Is that only under real load? Do these apps show the right readings for the ACM 1300 Wh?

I didn't try the current Gotway app yet because that would tie the wheel number to an account and I didn't want to do that yet.

What's going on?:huh:

edit: 84*0.72 = 60.5 hmmmm,,,

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72% and 62V is consistent with 16 cells (3.9V per cell) and a 67.2V charger. For 20 cells (84V charger), 62V means that the battery is pretty much empty (3.1V per cell) and the wheel shouldn't even move.

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@Slaughthammer Thank you, I will try that. I guess one can learn turning by training, but it's good to have a conscious idea of what to do!

7 hours ago, steve454 said:

The photos look very clear and sharp, what phone is that?  

Nexus 5 (from end of 2013) [you can also see that from the photo metadata]. The camera is acceptable, but not much more. It barely focused on anything yesterday, it was cloudy and foggy but not that dark.

@Mono Looks like that was an accidental paste of an earlier post. What you said is right though, the numbers make no sense. Anyways, the charging "problem" seems to only have appeared once at first charge and is gone now.

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Just did an evening/night ride from home. Roads and bike paths all around the city and adjacent lands. Mostly pavement, but some gravel and ice. I did stop after 2.5 hours only because my toes started to freeze:D

21.5 km added to the wheel, using 27% battery. Weight was 80kg so that means a 1300Wh ACM gives an 80kg (175lbs) person roughly 80km on flat paved roads (65 before you hit 20% battery) - with a speed between 10 and 15 km/h. Thats 16-17 Wh/km (that should also apply to the 1600Wh ACM so you can do the math).

Also, it's amazing how fast one learns, I did things at the end of the ride I would not have thought I could do for some time at the beginning of the ride. Especially curve stuff, "skiing" motion etc.

So much fun!

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Some more 84V ACM performance info for whoever cares:

25,5 km added to the wheel, 2/3rds on pavement, 1/3rd on baaad gravel and some snow/ice/slush (both pretty resistant) needed 40% battery (78% down to 38%). 15-20 km/h on pavement, 5-10 on the rest. That gives you 50+km under harsher (and faster) conditions going from 100% to 20% battery with 1300Wh (80kg rider, a few degrees above 0, mostly flat terrain).

EUC riding is still lots of fun and curves are getting better:) I find myself wishing for someone to ride with now, alone is boring if you don't have a goal and just ride around randomly.

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Please correct me if I'm wrong... If a charger goes green too early - it means that one of the cells in the battery is weaker than the others. Its capacity is lower, it reaches its maximum voltage faster, and the BMS cuts the whole charging process to avoid overcharging this cell, otherwise it will explode and catch fire. The LED on the charger goes green while the app shows less than 100%. Am I right?

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The 70% stop did only occur once, at the first charge. It gradually went up to 100% after I used the wheel a little indoors. Now everything works ok I believe.

I don't know if what you said is true. Even if one battery is full (assume it has a bad cell), shouldn't the other batteries charge independently?

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My version - you topped off the weaker cell up to its normal capacity by cycling the battery a few times. Maybe it will work fine from now on. Otherwise you have to disassemble the battery and recover that cell manually.

But the weakness of that cell(s) can come back some day. Too early green LED tells you the problem exists. At least it can lower the battery capacity. But there is a possibility of much more dangerous consequences - together with an over-voltage protection, BMS has a low voltage protection. It came from E-bicycles to save an expensive battery at all cost. E-bicycle just becomes an ordinary bicycle if anything happens to the battery. But some EUC producers don't disable this kind of protection in their products. And that is very dangerous. This means if one cell is weaker than the others, it will discharge faster, and BMS will cut off the battery when it hasn't reached 0% yet. As a result, a unicycle just shuts off suddenly, and a rider makes a face-plant, terrible situation at speed, could be lethal in some cases. 

Surely you have 2 batteries and the second one will not let this all happen. You are safe.

But not me, as a Ninebot One rider with only 1 battery, I have to disassemble the battery and disable the low-voltage protection. Let it better kill the battery than it injure me instead. I know how to do it but I haven't done it yet. Until then I watch carefully for the green LED on my charger to appear not earlier than 61 volts (100%) on a Ninebot One.

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2 hours ago, Radislav said:

as a Ninebot One rider with only 1 battery, I have to disassemble the battery and disable the low-voltage protection.

If you disable the low-voltage protection on a Ninebot, does that mean it will not limit the speed once you get down to 20%?   I have not read anything about disabling the low voltage protection on a Ninebot, but some people do it on low quality wheels with cheap batteries.  You have many kilometers on your Ninebot, do you think that if the battery gets old you might disable the protection, or just buy a new battery?

Great video of riding in the cold weather, you are very skilled rider.:thumbup:  Especially jumping up on to sidewalks from the street, I used to do that with a bicycle, but only can jump about 3 centimeters with the Ninebot:facepalm:

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7 hours ago, steve454 said:

If you disable the low-voltage protection on a Ninebot, does that mean it will not limit the speed once you get down to 20%?

No, Steve. Disabling the low-voltage protection in BMS has nothing to do with getting rid of 20% speed limit. Low-voltage means the level that BMS considers as 0%. Speed limit 20% will remain on. Some vendors have already disabled low-voltage protection in their batteries.

7 hours ago, steve454 said:

Great video of riding in the cold weather, you are very skilled rider.:thumbup:  Especially jumping up on to sidewalks from the street, I used to do that with a bicycle, but only can jump about 3 centimeters with the Ninebot:facepalm:

Thank you! There are too many curbs on the streets... we have to jump a lot to reach higher average speeds. I've seen guys who jumped onto a bench which was the same height as the wheel (50 cm).

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10 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Thank you for your input. Not sure if I should be concerned or not. Also not sure if there is something I can or should do about that...:huh:

What he is talking about is called "shunting"....This was a (former times) method to get rid of a "low Batterie protection" in old EUC's and still in some generic chinese wheels!

Kingsongs and Gotways dont have this Problem...no Need to "shunt" a BMS....Also::

If one Battery inside would be weak or dead, the BMS would stop the complete pack from working.....that's a part of why a BMS is there!

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15 minutes ago, KingSong69 said:

What he is talking about is called "shunting"....This was a (former times) method to get rid of a "low Batterie protection" in old EUC's and still in some generic chinese wheels!

Kingsongs and Gotways dont have this Problem...no Need to "shunt" a BMS....Also::

If one Battery inside would be weak or dead, the BMS would stop the complete pack from working.....that's a part of why a BMS is there!

Everything good then.... (right?). Thanks so much for all your infos!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

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2 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

@Radislav Thank you for your input. Not sure if I should be concerned or not. Also not sure if there is something I can or should do about that...:huh:

No concerns needed in my opinion. Just watch for the green LED on your charger to appear not earlier than at 100% (84V) of your batteries. If it goes green at 80 or 90% then the problem with one of your batteries could be one of the possible reasons.

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I ordered i acm 1300wh 6 day's ago, and have to wait to the end of the month till it's here:(

But it is nice to see some foto's of the acm in the snow, and to read how it rides:)

But hope also that this new gotway  acm 84V version don't have any problem whatever.

Time will tell, but the riders and buyer will telll it in al while.

Not much problem what i can find with the 680wh and 820 wh acm.

I hope i will enjoy this new wheel as much as i  enjoy the V5d.

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The 84V versions all have 12 mfets and the charge port won't spark/can't be shorted (not 100% sure about that one) -  which are both pluses. Other than that they should be identical (except the 1300Wh and 1600Wh versions being wider to accomodate the additional batteries).

If you buy Gotway, you get Gotway - a great wheel, and nothing much else (app is crap - use wheellog; quality control is supposed to be a little sketchy sometimes - but a good seller can remedy that). Inmotion certainly has better overall comfort features (I envy the app;)). But in the end, the wheel counts and there are barely any problem reports with the ACMs.

So look forward to yours - it's a very strong and robust wheel! And you can choose which wheel to use for what you want to do:) - sleek or sturdy.

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Thank you for you're comment, the reason that i choose this wheel is because what you write.

The 12 mosfets, and the 84V, and ofcouse a big range.

But unfurtunatly the order is canceled today, the seller can diliver.:(

Gotway seems to have problems with shipping to europe because of the big battery's.

Hope they solve this problem, an i can get the wheel.

Did you order you're wheel from ali or a european seller?

I bought my V5D from ali, but this one from a european seller.

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4 hours ago, gotmotion2016 said:

Thank you for you're comment, the reason that i choose this wheel is because what you write.

The 12 mosfets, and the 84V, and ofcouse a big range.

But unfurtunatly the order is canceled today, the seller can diliver.:(

Gotway seems to have problems with shipping to europe because of the big battery's.

Hope they solve this problem, an i can get the wheel.

Did you order you're wheel from ali or a european seller?

I bought my V5D from ali, but this one from a european seller.

See if 1radwerkstadt can make you the batteries then get a wheel without batteries.  What about Ian at speedy feet, or is the price difference your concern.?

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@gotmotion2016 I bought from speedyfeet.co.uk. It says "2 weeks preorder" for the 1300Wh ACM now, it was in stock then (3 weeks ago). Took less than a week to deliver from UK to very southern Germany, so Netherlands should be even faster.

I believe Ian (speedyfeet) is quite a high volume seller (in comparison to others, we're talking about EUCs after all) and Gotway might very well send his ACMs first (my box has an English/Chinese "Ian" sticker on it which indicates they considered his bulk shipment specifically at the factory, instead of shipping one box at a time somewhere). Because of low British pound, the price there is also better than other Euro sellers (not sure about US prices, and ordering from aliexpress could be cheaper). So I think that's the best Euro option atm.

Are the Gotway shipping problems new and also affect speedyfeet?

Where did you buy from? Is it a seller with inventory (like speedyfeet) or do they just order at the Gotway factory for you (like many other sellers)?

Also if you decide for aliexpress (so it will take more time) consider the 1600Wh ACM - more is better and maybe the price is good;)

@Smoother If you let 1radwerkstatt build you a 1300Wh battery... I'm pretty sure that would be crazy expensive (I asked this question myself concerning a 1600Wh battery and this is the answer I got).

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Thanks all for the feedback, in a way it helps a bit what to deside.

At first, my seller tells it just a problem now with the bigger batteries like this 1300wh or more.

The seller thought it would be more neat to refund te payment because it is not clear how long this takes.

I have no idea if it affect speedy feet also, maybe it depends if he let wheels ship with or without battery's in the unit?

The difference in price from my seller and speedy feet is E 232,00, that is including trolley handle.

I have to wait by speedy feet for 2 weeks the site tells,so i TRY to be patience:w00t2:.

And wait and hear that the problems are solved about shipping, and by the wheel for the same good price.

My seller is one that have inventory, at least that is according the site and  what i understand from the seller.

I have seen the 1600wh on aliaxpress, but it doesn't say that that is including shipping.

Apogeebuy have also a 1600wh, and is a bit sheaper  ( sorry i'm dutch )and that's including tax and shipping.

Well, enough to think about, time will tell how my patience behave ( i want it all ( good-fast-cheap), and i want it now);)

 

 

 

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