Bluetooth damaged on connection

[johangrimm]

Hi all!
I got a really good price on a smashed up Msuper3 so I'm now wheeling around as a newbie on a heavily duct taped wheel.

Everything was working at first. Step one however was to dismantle and examine since I had to now where the cracks went. I then left the controller disconnected from the battery for about a week.

When I reconnected power to the controller card both capacitors charged up with a minor flash at the connection. Not good at all!

GotWay uses no resistor as protection and after this neither my own Bluetooth-board or the one I borrowed from a friend will show up "in the air". There's a LED blinking red all the time and pressing the button makes no difference.

Mind you that the BT-board I tried from my friend also might be damaged since 4 or 5 of his MOSFET's are burned.
If course I'll try a brand new SH_BT_Board v1.3 but have anyone else had similar problems?

Also, imagine how the assembly line at GotWay must be like? Either they do initial test on all controller cards through a proper power supply that swallows the spike on its own capacitors. Then the capacitors on the controller are already primed and in final station batteries and BT-board can just be connected without any spikes. Or, they have had to think about the order in which they mount the lot and that's it.

So, now I'm just awaiting the new BT and I'll get back to you about it. Comments?

 

[Vik's]

3 hours ago, johangrimm said:

good price on a smashed up Msuper3

Bought from @nomad? That Ikea plant pot looks familiar...

 

[johangrimm]

9 hours ago, Vik's said:

Bought from @nomad? That Ikea plant pot looks familiar...

Yep!

[nomad]

Have no idea about the electronics unfortunately but I hope someone here can chime in on what went wrong. The v3 is a new wheel still so maybe there's not enough information about the innards yet. Maybe you need only another new bluetooth module again, that was not from a burned wheel. It seems to need special care on which order things are connected, I hope the flash didn't mean major damage to other components, there's a lot of juice in those battery packs!

I think the 820Wh is a little too thin and not very tall (unlike KS18) it's a relatively compact 18"er with lights and trolley. It looks like you made it a lot more stable and easier to push for acceleration, good job! It's not the most portable or beautiful wheel anyway so I like the mods if it improves the ride. Later on you can improve the aesthetics if you want..

It's also arguably one of the safest wheels on the market so far but those mods probably increase the risk of overleaning. I found it was practically impossible to overlean it with my 70kg but I never tried a v3 modded like that.. As a rule with EUCs you generally don't want to push too much going into an incline at least.. As a newbie you might be too optimistic of it's abilities, start carefully and accelerate slowly or just maintain speed depending on how steep the climb is, if it's steeper better let it slow down.. You can speed up before the incline like on a bike for momentum but as soon as you hit the hill ease off to keep the torque down, don't just push through it. With more experience you'll feel how it resists and how much you can push.. The v3 is not a torque monster but it does as good as most other wheels. Just saying it's good to keep the limits in mind.

Anyway good luck and sorry I can't help out! These devices are not overly complicated so hopefully you'll be riding again soon. I hope someone helps or you have this sorted out by yourself. That wheel is such a nice ride you have to get it running again!

[man-on(e)-wheel]

@johangrimm Where did you buy the BT module? Need a new one for my ACM.