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fearedbliss

MSuper v3 review by SpeedFeet

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Great Review , I don't know about the tyre , it's not the best for forrest roads mud , for asphalt it's great , I have similar tyre on ks18 with flat Surface in the middle maybe I change tyre if I find a better one

 

Edited by Bjorn H

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A+, please review ACM, would like to know your findings 16" vs 18"

 

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He showed twice how the charger light glowed green when connected to the wheel but not plugged into the wall power. The IPS 121 and 191 do this too.

6 hours ago, Rehab1 said:

Ninebot lost one awesome representative! So Stupid! Great move on Gotway's part as they gained a truly talented individual to promote their products!  Best wishes SpeedyFeet!

Absolutely!

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6 hours ago, MaxLinux said:

He showed twice how the charger light glowed green when connected to the wheel but not plugged into the wall power. The IPS 121 and 191 do this too.

 

the question is WHY?

the "spark" seen when the cord is connect at current FROM the Msuper BACKFEEDS into the charging device before IT is plugged in

that CANNOT be right... is it?

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34 minutes ago, Greg Spalding said:

the question is WHY?

the "spark" seen when the cord is connect at current FROM the Msuper BACKFEEDS into the charging device before IT is plugged in

that CANNOT be right... is it?

All Gotway units do the same. The proper way of charging is to power on the charger first before plugging it to the unit.

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12 hours ago, MaxLinux said:

He showed twice how the charger light glowed green when connected to the wheel but not plugged into the wall power. The IPS 121 and 191 do this too.

Now that is interesting... My IPS191 does not do this. When the charger is plugged into the wheel first there is no light on the charger. 

I know IPS made some changes to the unit - mine uses the new IamIPS app (not the older Xima version). So now I'm wondering if there were other changes too?

@MaxLinux - what version of app does your wheel use? This may support (or completely disprove) the theory...

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23 hours ago, fearedbliss said:

Definitely a great review - as we have come to expect from Ian / SpedyFeet.

It is interesting how NB-centric his knowledge and understanding is (was). I suppose it was to be expected - I just assumed that Ian had spent more time in other wheels as well (considering how thorough he is).

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My Ninebot One P does it.. Not the Charger is not plugged into the outlet and just the wheel the light turns green... I hope thats nto bad...

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6 hours ago, SlowMo said:

All Gotway units do the same. The proper way of charging is to power on the charger first before plugging it to the unit.

i'm glad that is the "CORRECT SEQUENCE" for charging. i just don't understand why that would be.

back-fed power from the wheel to the charger sounds like a bad idea, quite frankly, even if every wheel does that

with all the old concern about melting/exploding batteries (of lesser units) you'd think the manufacturers would "FIX" that issue

 

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25 minutes ago, Tilmann said:

I don't think, that's something to be overly concerned about. Technically, it has two reasons: 

  1. The charge plug on GW wheels is constantly connected to battery power. Disadvantage: don't loose the protective cap as you don't want anything to short circuit the pins. Advantage: you can use the charge plug as a power outlet. It easily feeds a 10W LED head lamp like those sold on aliexpress and ebay that allow up to 80V voltage (unfortunately, those I tried are not really good).
  2. The charger has a large capacitor on the side connecting to the wheel (a capacitor is kind of a small ultra fast battery). After converting the AC voltage from the mains supply to DC voltage, the result is wobbly. That means: instead of providing, say, a constant 60 volt supply, it oscillates between 55V and 65V at fast speed (about 100 times/second in Europe, 120 times/sec in the US). Only the average is 60v. That's not too good for charging. So, putting that capacitor across the wires going to the wheel, it reduces that wobble. When voltage raises above 60v, the excess energy flows into the capacitor, when it falls below 60v, the capacitor releases that energy and thus it stabilizes the resulting voltage much closer to it's intended target value (it still may wobble a little). 

The spark effect: capacitors are not really batteries - when not connected, they lose their charge fairly fast. When your charge block is disconnected for a couple of hours, chances are, the capacitor is completely empty. When you now connect the charger to the wheel first, it causes a short burst of relatively hight energy flow ("current") from the wheel to the charger to fill up that capacitor to the remaining voltage level of the battery. That energy flow it very short, but much higher, than what your charger usually delivers in the opposite direction - and that causes the spark! If you do that regularly, it may even leave some burn marks on the connecting pins. But I don't think, that spark presents any risk to the user worth worrying about. I also don't think it reaches levels harmful to your wheels battery, let alone causing it to burn or explode. 

Notable exception: if you are using Charge Doctor, make absolutely sure to always connect your charger to mains first and wheel second. That initial high current was enough to destroy my Charge Doctor V1.

Hey tilman. Did you ever figure out that wobble at high speed?

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30 minutes ago, Tilmann said:

I don't think, that's something to be overly concerned about. Technically, it has two reasons: 

  1. The charge plug on GW wheels is constantly connected to battery power. Disadvantage: don't loose the protective cap as you don't want anything to short circuit the pins. Advantage: you can use the charge plug as a power outlet. It easily feeds a 10W LED head lamp like those sold on aliexpress and ebay that allow up to 80V voltage (unfortunately, those I tried are not really good).
  2. The charger has a large capacitor on the side connecting to the wheel (a capacitor is kind of a small ultra fast battery). After converting the AC voltage from the mains supply to DC voltage, the result is wobbly. That means: instead of providing, say, a constant 60 volt supply, it oscillates between 55V and 65V at fast speed (about 100 times/second in Europe, 120 times/sec in the US). Only the average is 60v. That's not too good for charging. So, putting that capacitor across the wires going to the wheel, it reduces that wobble. When voltage raises above 60v, the excess energy flows into the capacitor, when it falls below 60v, the capacitor releases that energy and thus it stabilizes the resulting voltage much closer to it's intended target value (it still may wobble a little). 

The spark effect: capacitors are not really batteries - when not connected, they lose their charge fairly fast. When your charge block is disconnected for a couple of hours, chances are, the capacitor is completely empty. When you now connect the charger to the wheel first, it causes a short burst of relatively hight energy flow ("current") from the wheel to the charger to fill up that capacitor to the remaining voltage level of the battery. That energy flow it very short, but much higher, than what your charger usually delivers in the opposite direction - and that causes the spark! If you do that regularly, it may even leave some burn marks on the connecting pins. But I don't think, that spark presents any risk to the user worth worrying about. I also don't think it reaches levels harmful to your wheels battery, let alone causing it to burn or explode. 

Notable exception: if you are using Charge Doctor, make absolutely sure to always connect your charger to mains first and wheel second. That initial high current was enough to destroy my Charge Doctor V1.

greatly appreciate the education

thank you

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Just now, Donafello said:

Hey tilman. Did you ever figure out that wobble at high speed?

I heard two theories, but don't have positive evidence to either one yet:

  1. Some claimed, it stems from brand new tires and goes away after about 100 miles.
  2. Others think, it comes from asymetric foot position on the pedals. Like, if one foot is just 5mm (1/5 inch) more to the front, than the other, you wobble.

Today I did some faster runs (approx 40 km/h) and the tendency to wobble was much less than before. Can't tell, if that was due to more miles on the tire, better foot position or me just getting more acquainted with my new love :wub:

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Anyone know how to fix or reduce the high pitch noise?  My IPS doesnt have that and i have very good hearing... I think this would annoy me a lot.

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47 minutes ago, spikes2020 said:

Anyone know how to fix or reduce the high pitch noise?  My IPS doesnt have that and i have very good hearing... I think this would annoy me a lot.

a characteristic of the MOSFETs and the motor.... it's just the harmonics of that situation and UNalterable.

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1 hour ago, spikes2020 said:

Anyone know how to fix or reduce the high pitch noise?  My IPS doesnt have that and i have very good hearing... I think this would annoy me a lot.

I have very good hearing too, and it really doesn't bother me. It quickly fades into the background.

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