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David S

KS16 wont turn on

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...so, took the unit to a pickup/dropoff point across the border in France this morning (saturday). It will ship back monday.  :clap3:?

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Update:  picked up my euc which should now work flawlessly..BUT..the shell is now damaged, and the front light is now pushed in.  WTH !!  There's no damage to the box it was shipped in. Am writing to the seller now.  :angry:  

 

20170315_194418.jpg

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Just returned from a test-ride of my returned wheel. Performs like a thoroughbred.  The bt mac has changed, so either they changed a board or did a total reset. 

The front and back lights, however don't seem to entirely sync though. Sad. Will do more soon, and hopefully find everything else well.

 

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Rode my returned wheel about 16km today. Lights are better. KS SAV denies they damaged the shell of my wheel and suggest I file a complaint with UPS (shipper), which I will do. Compensation or not, I'll be repairing the cracked shell myself.  It turns out KS replaced the motor and motherboard, and as noted in my earlier post, it now runs perfectly.

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An old thread, but bumping it since it happened to my KS16 today.

I rode it back from work, and wanted to turn it off so I could carry it up the stairs to my house, like I normally do.  Pushing the on/off button made the wheel lose balance, but the wheel itself "locked", so could not move the wheel manually - and LED lights didn't turn off.  I couldn't turn the wheel off at all.

After holding the wheel upright with the handles and wondering what to do for about 30 seconds, it started vibrating for a split second, then shut off - for good.

Now I can't turn it back on at all.  

 

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37 minutes ago, PsychoFreud said:

Now I can't turn it back on

Are there some LED Lights blinking when you try? or completly dead?

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1 hour ago, PsychoFreud said:

It's completely dead now.

That means the fuse is blown...or a mosfet...

Is it harder to move the tire then before? does it kind of block the movement?

If so, mosfet is blown, board must be changed...otherwise it should be the fuse....

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Hi Folks, 

I received my shiny new KS-16S two days ago, did the main Setup via the "green" 1.4 App (Disco lights off, voice commands off, unlock speed Limit) an did a 5 km test ride, everything fine so far. 

In the evening I tried the "new" App directly from https://www.kingsong.com/list-30.html

To turn the wheel off, I used the App Button "Shutdown" within the new App, and the wheel turned off (I was convinced it did so) 

Today I wanted to turn on again, but the wheel doesn't spin up. Only a voice command "Bluetooth is off" is stated, and the wheel can be turned easily.  :-O

If I press the small Button, the front/rear lights turn on steady white, that's it. 

I decided to charge the wheel, nevertheless the last charge already was 88% - but I can't check because the wheel don't turn on and the "Disco lights" have been disabled by me in the first place. Any suggestions? 

- Battery down?

- Issue with App "Shutdown" Button? 

- Dual Apps mismatch (old KingSong 1.4, New KingSong, WheelLog-App)? 

- Hardware issue? 

Thank you for any help.    :'-/

Cheers, Borg

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hy Borg!

That happened to a few people! Use the button in the left down corner Again! 

And if it asks something...goe for the prompt "always"...

Otherwise contace me on pM...but bare with me..its Sylvester!

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16 minutes ago, KingSong69 said:

[...] but bare with me..its Sylvester!

Same to me, we're about to leave to the Party!   :-D

I'll check tomorrow. Meanwhile I managed to connect to the old "green" App as well to WheelLog...   Battery was nearly fully charged, btw. 

Front/rear lights flashing red, if I move the wheel manually - so it seems to "be alive" in some way. 

So, we read us  tomorrow - have fun! 

Happy new year @all!   :-D

 

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Hi Folks, 

OMG, I'm very sorry for beeing such a NOOB!! 

The solution was as follows: 

"Bluetooth is off" was a voice command regarding the Bluetooth speakers, which I intentionally switched OFF - no issue.

The wheel Bluetooth was still active. I connected to the wheel via "new" KingSong App and pressed "lock" in the down left corner. By pressing "unlock" again I was asked to "unlock once" or "unlock unlimited" (or so). 

This time I choosed "unlock unlimited", which solved my NOOB-issue. 

*Facepalm*

Greets, Borg

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6 minutes ago, Borg666 said:

This time I choosed "unlock unlimited", which solved my NOOB-issue. 

*Facepalm*

Greets, Borg

I Would not give you all the credit, why such a feature is on the app still baffles me!

 

Happy New Year!

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11 hours ago, Rob Valley said:

I Would not give you all the credit, why such a feature is on the app still baffles me!

Hello Rob,

thank you for granting me extenuating circumstances in this case.   ;-))
Maybe the lock button could be an pretty useful feature, if you combine it with the password/pin protection to connect the App to the wheel:
To unlock the wheel you have to connect via app, and for that connection you need a password/pin. Makes sense in some way.

...but I have to admit that I'm much too lazy for this kind of authentication procedure - I prefer just go riding.  ;)

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Uh oh. So just 5 days before my KS16's second birthday the same thing happens, only worse: as I arrive at the station and step off, it won't switch off and the wheel locks. After a few minutes there's a loud "POP" - presumably the fuse going. The wheel is incredibly stiff to push even though it's off. Once I got it home and took apart the casing I can see that the fuse and battery connector are black. Disconnecting the battery and replacing the fuse resulted in sparking and instant blowing when I tried to reconnect the battery.

So I assume the motherboard is completely fried. Is the stiffness of the motor caused by the MOSFETs blowing as mentioned above or could the motor be damaged?

Also, apart from getting a replacement motherboard shipped from ewheels USA, are there any UK suppliers I could use?

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19 hours ago, AlexT said:

Uh oh. So I assume the motherboard is completely fried. Is the stiffness of the motor caused by the MOSFETs blowing as mentioned above or could the motor be damaged?

Also, apart from getting a replacement motherboard shipped from ewheels USA, are there any UK suppliers I could use?

It takes a short circuit across the motor coils to cause that stiffness when turning so potentially it could be coil damage but at least 9 times out of 10 it is the MOSFET’s as they have a tendency to fail short circuit. So much for the fuse protecting the board - and I see this is the second time you have had this failure on your KS-16! As @Hunka Hunka Burning Love Said above disconnecting the motor wires from the board will prove if the short is in the motor or board.

As to getting a replacement board in the U.K. Project 42 stock (and I believe repair) KingSong https://proj42.co.uk/contacts note there is a “this site might not be safe” warning at the above URL, This seems to be purely due to them using https and the site certificate expiring yesterday, if you aren’t comfortable using it perhaps try a P.M to @vladmarks who is with Project 42 (and who hopefully will see this and get his company ‘s certificate sorted out?)

Speedyfeet https://www.speedyfeet.co.uk/ also now seems to be stocking KingSong.

Edited by Keith

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Yes the wheel spins when the motor's disconnected from the control board. New control board on its way from ewheels.

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My case is a little different, started a few weeks ago, after fully charged my KS16S, I noticed that it did not activate the gyroscope, pressing the pedals forward or backward, the wheel keeps unlocked, in the same way that, when it is charging mode; after reviewing the kingsong's developer app, I noticed that even after disconnecting the charger, the wheel thought it was still charging, (Battery status: Charging) and the only way it went to the "discharging" mode was by making contact between two of the charging pins, until lowering the charge below 90% approximately, or if turn off/on has to made the contact again. Well, yesterday, when making this electric contact between the two pins, after fully 100% charge, there was a strong electric short, with smoke, and the wheel did not turn on again, the board does not smell burned, the wheel did not get stuck, I ordered a board to Jason to replace it, I do not understand what could have been, at first

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

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3 minutes ago, Mauricio said:

My case is a little different, started a few weeks ago, after fully charged my KS16S, I noticed that it did not activate the gyroscope, pressing the pedals forward or backward, the wheel keeps unlocked, in the same way that, when it is charging mode; after reviewing the kingsong's developer app, I noticed that even after disconnecting the charger, the wheel thought it was still charging, (Battery status: Charging) and the only way it went to the "discharging" mode was by making contact between two of the charging pins, until lowering the charge below 90% approximately, or if turn off/on has to made the contact again. Well, yesterday, when making this electric contact between the two pins, after fully 100% charge, there was a strong electric short, with smoke, and the wheel did not turn on again, the board does not smell burned, the wheel did not get stuck, I ordered a board to Jason to replace it, I do not understand what could have been, at first

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

As you noticed short circuiting the charging pins is not the best idea - they should be/are somehow protected against wrong polarity (?and short circuit?) but as you have seen something was overloaded... :(

Imho it's not your (EUC main) board that got destroyed but the battery BMS board (the input protection part)?

Your prior problem (wheel stayed in charging mode) is strange and quite new?

Maybe the firmware (wrongly) measures a too high battery voltage and by this thinks it has to be still in charge mode? Or they use now some new BMS with communication to the mainboard?

Did you measure the charger output voltage? Do you know which battery voltage was reported by the app while the wheel was stuck in "charging mode"?

Please keep us informed about this problem and the solution, you'll hopefully find out soon!

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31 minutes ago, Chriull said:

As you noticed short circuiting the charging pins is not the best idea - they should be/are somehow protected against wrong polarity (?and short circuit?) but as you have seen something was overloaded... :(

Imho it's not your (EUC main) board that got destroyed but the battery BMS board (the input protection part)?

Your prior problem (wheel stayed in charging mode) is strange and quite new?

Maybe the firmware (wrongly) measures a too high battery voltage and by this thinks it has to be still in charge mode? Or they use now some new BMS with communication to the mainboard?

Did you measure the charger output voltage? Do you know which battery voltage was reported by the app while the wheel was stuck in "charging mode"?

Please keep us informed about this problem and the solution, you'll hopefully find out soon!

Thanks for your help!

 

Imho it's not your (EUC main) board that got destroyed but the battery BMS board (the input protection part)?

How could i test if this is working or not? where is it located, inside each battery?

Your prior problem (wheel stayed in charging mode) is strange and quite new? 

It started two days after receiving it, but it was solved only for a while and it happened again. 

Maybe the firmware (wrongly) measures a too high battery voltage and by this thinks it has to be still in charge mode? Or they use now some new BMS with communication to the mainboard?

The seller tried to help me to identify the problem, (at first) he thought it was a firmware issue too, and sent me the developer app, i flashed 1,08 and 1.09 vr firmwares,  but it did not work, problem persists; another strange thing i have notice is that sometimes charging voltage was over 67.2v

Did you measure the charger output voltage? Do you know which battery voltage was reported by the app while the wheel was stuck in "charging mode"?

Yes, I think I remember the voltage was above 67.2, and yes i had messure the charger output and was ok 

Another thing, when I tried to connect the batteries again,  a small electric shock occurs again, I had to remove the two fuses from the controller board and reconnect, then put back the fuses, there was no shock, but wheel still not power on

Edited by Mauricio
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26 minutes ago, Mauricio said:

Imho it's not your (EUC main) board that got destroyed but the battery BMS board (the input protection part)?

How could i test if this is working or not? where is it located, inside each battery?

Each battery has its own BMS inside. If anything got destroyed at the BMS one can maybe see it by "molten" spots of the plastic wrap?

Be careful with your batteries! As the BMS could be malfunctioning by now.

26 minutes ago, Mauricio said:

Did you measure the charger output voltage? Do you know which battery voltage was reported by the app while the wheel was stuck in "charging mode"?

Yes, I think I remember the voltage was above 67.2, and yes i had messure the charger output and was ok 

Another thing, when I tried to connect the batteries again,  a small electric shock occurs again, I had to remove the two fuses from the controller board and reconnect, then put back the fuses, there was no shock, but wheel still not power on

There is a big capacitor at the mainboard. Sparks when plugging the batteries in again are "normal" when the capacitor is charged again. Blowing the fuses by this is a bit uncommon but could happen?

Maybe KS could help you if you contact them directly and/or via your reseller! Maybe @Micheal Shen from KS can help too establishing a contact/prevent further damage/solve the problem?

It's hard for us/me to do a remote diagnoses, especially for ?new?/not (well) known problems.

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On 12/5/2019 at 8:40 AM, Chriull said:

Each battery has its own BMS inside. If anything got destroyed at the BMS one can maybe see it by "molten" spots of the plastic wrap?

Be careful with your batteries! As the BMS could be malfunctioning by now.

There is a big capacitor at the mainboard. Sparks when plugging the batteries in again are "normal" when the capacitor is charged again. Blowing the fuses by this is a bit uncommon but could happen?

Maybe KS could help you if you contact them directly and/or via your reseller! Maybe @Micheal Shen from KS can help too establishing a contact/prevent further damage/solve the problem?

It's hard for us/me to do a remote diagnoses, especially for ?new?/not (well) known problems.

 

Finally got it to work, the new board arrives yesterday, today (crossed fingers) i started to assembly the wheel again, fortunately it turns on again!  it seems that something electronic on the old board was burnt, but not the mosfets or capacitors, indeed, nothing in the old board smells like burnt (pics of the old board, nothing seems to be damaged)

ECYQ75k.jpg

 

xvhw16f.jpg

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On 12/10/2019 at 4:18 PM, Mauricio said:

 

Finally got it to work, the new board arrives yesterday, today (crossed fingers) i started to assembly the wheel again, fortunately it turns on again!  it seems that something electronic on the old board was burnt, but not the mosfets or capacitors, indeed, nothing in the old board smells like burnt (pics of the old board, nothing seems to be damaged)

ECYQ75k.jpg

 

xvhw16f.jpg

Hi, this image is the new or the old board?

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On 12/10/2019 at 4:18 PM, Mauricio said:

 

Finally got it to work, the new board arrives yesterday, today (crossed fingers) i started to assembly the wheel again, fortunately it turns on again!  it seems that something electronic on the old board was burnt, but not the mosfets or capacitors, indeed, nothing in the old board smells like burnt (pics of the old board, nothing seems to be damaged)

ECYQ75k.jpg

 

xvhw16f.jpg

Hi, this is the new or the old board?

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