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Ninebot One E vs. E+


Stinnenich

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Hi! I want to buy my first EU without spending "too much" money.
I heard the Ninebot One is quite good. So, which one should I buy? The E or the E+? I've measured the distances of some routes I want to drive, and I've found out that my way to work and back is about 4km, and the longest distance I've travelled by other types of vehicles like the RocketSkates is about 8km. I know about the official comparison list which says the E should last at least 22km and the E+ 30km @70kg, if I'm not mistaken. My weight is 75kg, if that's important.
So if I go after the distance and the list the E shoud be enough, right?

But I've heard about some other aspects, too. For example the instability if the battery charge is below a certain point, and something with mainboard layouts, and accessory slots.

In the end which EU is best suited for me? Thanks for your help. :D

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E has 240Wh and E+ has 320Wh battery, if I remember correctly. For comparison, my Firewheel has a 264Wh battery (although it has been through something like 300-400 cycles, so not at max capacity anymore), and can take me between 18 and 23 kilometers (depending on temperature, head wind, hill climbs etc). So I'd guess that the E-model (240Wh) is about the same, but I weight only 57kg. The Firewheel produces pretty nice torque and top speed up to nearly end of charge, but I do notice it gets a bit "soft" towards the end and doesn't react as fast within the last few kilometers. On my 14" generic, you can clearly notice it becomes really slow reacting after the leds start to go between 1 and 2 lit, but don't know how the Ninebots react when the charge gets lower.

If you think the 240Wh is enough for you, go for it, but I don't know if the price difference between E and E+ is that large. Remember that you might not be able to upgrade the battery later on (I don't know if Ninebots can be upgraded just by changing a bigger battery into it?), or at least it will be costly. For instance, when I was going to buy the Ninebot E, I asked the reseller how much a spare battery would cost, so I could change it on the road if going longer trips (if you look at for example Speedy Feet's videos, the battery is simple to replace, all you need is a couple of screwdrivers), and he said that first off, changing the battery by myself would void the warranty, and the spare 240Wh original Ninebot battery would be around 370€ with taxes (the wheel itself would have cost 895€ with taxes + shipping)... Most people recommend to get as large battery as possible from the start, I'm now personally looking into replacing the 264Wh battery on the Firewheel with either 2 * 264Wh originals or custom built to my liking (up to 4*200Wh, we'll see what kind of quote I'll get per pack).

Edit: with shipping, customs and taxes, ordering the original 2 * 264Wh batteries from the factory would cost something like 550-600+€ to me. Don't know about the custom sets yet, but might be maybe around 150-250€ per pack, the cells are likely to be something like 5-10€ a piece depending on quality and capacity, and you need 16 of them per pack + work hours + BMS-circuit.

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Hi Stinnenich,

I had to smile when reading your post because I was in the exact same situation (way to work and back as well as body weight) with the same question (E or E+) three months ago. I chose the E because of the reasons you mentioned. What I didn't anticipate was 

  1. that riding the ninebot is so much fun I now enjoy doing longer routes, visiting friends,... and so battery capacity is the limiting factor when planning where to go next.:mellow:
  2. that I love to drive uphill. The hills here are about 250-300m high - often with serpentine roads. If your surroundings are similar consider this will deplete your battery faster.
  3. that on rare occasions I would enjoy the extra speed the E+ offers.
  4. that an upgrade to an E+ by simply buying the larger battery and replacing it will not do the trick. The E+ has a slightly different MoBo (MOSFETs) and so upgrading will be more expansive than buying an E+ from the very start.

don't know how the Ninebots react when the charge gets lower.

​When battery capacity drops below 20% the ninebot will kick back and slow you down. You are still able to ride quite a distance but your speed is limited to about 10km/h. Once it drops below 10% the wheel crawls along with maybe 4-6km/h. Not only because of these safety measures I think all in all this is a wonderful wheel to ride on. However - I don't have any experiance riding other bikes! ;)

All I can say is that after more than 1000km I only had one faceplant so far - and "No", there was nothing wrong with the ninebot. It was just me messing around with the settings after a firmware upgrade. So when you are used to super fast reactions (Riding mode 0) and then change this setting to 3 (slower reactions), but you don't change your driving style when riding uphill you will faceplant. So what I am saying is that once you think you know how to ride the ninebot and then change riding mode settings be aware that the wheel will behave differently. Treat it like a new wheel! Ride easy with it! You need to find out how it reacts - slowly...

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Hi Gunthor! Also gibts hier sogar jemanden aus Deutschland? :D

1. Even if I WOULD really drive to the heart of the city (and from there back) that would be ~17km. But I know myself. I'm not really the type of person who would drive all this way. I'm quite a couch potato and my first real experience with outdoor sports in the last years were my RocketSkates.

2. Where I live are almost no hills. :)

3. Do I see a big real world (I know that the list says) difference in speed?

4. Yep, I thought so. If I buy an E, I would keep it till the end.

5. Where did you buy your EU?

 

Thanks esaj! I would have to pay 673€ for the E and 800€ for the E+ (plus taxes). That's not THAT more expensive, but it's not really cheap either.

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Hi,

ja, jede Menge Leute aus DE! :P

What about the Ninebot one C+? It is the "new E" with 220 Wh Battery, maybe they upgraded the electronics a bit. At the moment I am playing with a generic 14" and plan to buy a ninebot at our next stay at Belgium Middelkerke (my parents in law has got an appartment there) It is closed to Gistel (monowiel.be). Price for c+ is 750 Euro - best price I have seen in Europe!

 

Edit: price of E+ is 1100 Euro! The difference: engine is 500W instead of 450W and Battery 340 vs 220 Wh. Is this the money worth?

 

Manu

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I have model E.

I usually ride about 20 km in the city, with  hill climbs and downhills, braking and accelerating. When I have finished, the battery shows between 40% and 30% yet. I do not know if it is real capacity.

Hope this can help you.

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Moin! Und noch einer. Nicht aus Deutschland, aber von dort.

Anyway, like Manu, I do have a 14" generic and planning to upgrade to an E+. The price here is 1.190 S$, which is about 800€ at the current exchange rate. However, what is holding me back, is the question when Ninebot will launch the successor of the E+ and which features this one might have.

Anybody an idea?

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I would recommend the E+. Larger battery and higher speed. You might not need the range but the batter will keep at sufficient power should you need/want it. I have the E+ and wish I could get a larger battery. If you ride at the top speed of your wheel all the time it eats up your battery as well. I'm about 80kg and have about 1650-1700km on my wheel so far. My routes are all  streets, sidewalks, bike trails, etc. I get about 15 miles (24km) per full charge. It would be lower with the E model and, in most cases, not enough, for me, to be practical.

From what I've heard the E and C models are out of production? Can someone verify?

Good luck with your choice.

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1. Even if I WOULD really drive to the heart of the city (and from there back) that would be ~17km. But I know myself. I'm not really the type of person who would drive all this way. I'm quite a couch potato and my first real experience with outdoor sports in the last years were my RocketSkates.

2. Where I live are almost no hills. :)

3. Do I see a big real world (I know that the list says) difference in speed?

4. Yep, I thought so. If I buy an E, I would keep it till the end.

5. Where did you buy your EU?

​Hi Stinnenich,  I originally ordered a Ninebot One E+ but due to a mistake by the seller, I got the E model instead.  I decided to keep it and take a partial refund.  Here's the reasons I ordered the E+ and the reasons I kept the E model.  I wanted an ecycle with the speed and range that could keep me happy for a day ride.  I learned on a basic generic type model that had no safety features.  The battery would just quit without warning when low.  It also was not particularly fast so I wanted something with more speed.  I thought the Ninebot One E+ would be a great model to own.  I wanted the sustained 22 kph and extended range of the 320 wh battery.  It also has a redesigned control board and new motor that is supposed to pull harder up hills.  I haven't had the chance to ride a E+ for obvious reasons but here is what I can say about the E model that I decided to keep in its place.  It will keep a sustained 19 to 20 kph speed.  I used a gps to see how fast I could run.  I can only get to 17 kph at a full on sprint. LOL  I must state I am a 56 year old man also!  Does that come into play for me?  Yes!  I want to have a reasonable chance of staying upright if I do come off the wheel.  That might not happen if I come off at top speed on a Ninebot One E+!  You will find that if you have the speed, you tend to use it.  I still feel like I am flying on the Ninebot One E.  I am also 97 kg.  I was worried I'd miss the extra midrange punch the E+ has.  I can tell you that I have not had any issues with going up any hill on the E even with the extra weight being put on the wheel.  I still want to get down to around 80 kg.  I can imagine the wheel feeling more powerful if I can accomplish that.  But, I have absolutely NO issues with the power of this wheel.  Going up hill I can still hold 19 kph if I choose to.  The only downside to the E model is the smaller battery.  Don't get me wrong,... it will take you quite some distance, but having the extra reserve of a bigger battery sure would be nice.

To address your issues.  You said you are a couch potato.  Trust me,... I resemble that remark! :lol: You will find yourself wanting to get off the couch and riding every chance you get!  I go uptown on my wheel for lunch instead of taking the car.  Saves gas, gets me outside and in the air, fun factor is wayyyy up there!  The only thing a little unnerving is being in areas where there is traffic and pedestrians.  You really need to be able to look behind you when riding so you can cross streets safely.  That does take some getting used to but you'll learn it.

You live where there are no hills.  You'll not have any issues with the model E.  Trust me,... you'll be looking for hills with this ecycle!

Difference in speed.... yes, but like I said,.... what speed are you comfortable falling off at?  I have not come off my Ninebot One as of yet, but it's not a matter of if you will come off of it, but when you will come off of it.  There is always that bump or hole you did not see in time or the squirrel that runs in front of you.  Did I mention that dogs seem drawn to chasing things on wheels?  :ph34r:  Coming off the wheel might be far and few between but you just have to weigh the risks your willing to take concerning speed!  Not sure how old you are.  At 56, I'm pretty content buzzing along at 19 to 20 kph.  (that is until esaj flies past me on that Firewheel!  ha ha ha)

You plan on keeping the wheel you buy.  Ninebot One is a solidly built model.  Great company with state of the art manufacturing facility.  I'm not sure how warranties work.  I live here in the States so I wanted a wheel that was pretty bulletproof.  The thought of sending it back to China does not appeal to me.  I haven't heard much complaints from owners who own this wheel.  On a side note, if you are slightly mechanically inclined, you can take these wheels apart without much trouble.  They really are simple.  I think that is what makes them so reliable.

In short, most people who own these will tell you to get the largest battery you can afford.  That is great advice!  I thought 20 km would be more than I would ride in a day.  20 km comes very quickly!  I have actually taken my generic wheel with me also because I wasn't ready to quit for the day!  Something to consider.  I just wish the large battery models weren't so heavy.  My generic model has a 130 WH battery and is quick to flick around. (I said quick to flick around, but not quick in speed)  The Ninebot One is heavier but also feels more stable.  The comparison would be owning the Ninebot One is like owning a Cadillac.  My generic wheel is like owning a stripped down Chevy.  There was a learning curve when going to the heavier Ninebot One but since I knew how to ride already it was more getting used to the weight under me and the fact that the floorboards are about an inch higher than what I was riding.  Doesn't sound like much but for some reason it felt different.  Now I love it as I don't scrape the boards on the road in turns quite so much.

I imagine you would need to buy an E model soon if you choose that route.  They no longer make them.  The deal I ended up getting on the E saved me $200 over the E+.  You really have to look hard but you can find those deals.  I bought mine on Ebay.  Good luck with whatever you decide and welcome to the wonderful world of ecycles!

 

 

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I have model E.

I usually ride about 20 km in the city, with  hill climbs and downhills, braking and accelerating. When I have finished, the battery shows between 40% and 30% yet. I do not know if it is real capacity.

Hope this can help you.

Today in the morning I have done 18km, and I left about 40% battery available.

But in the evening, I only could to do about 4km more with this 40%. So the battery level is not well calibrated. At least in mine ninebot.

22 km in the city. And I am near 80kg.

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Today in the morning I have done 18km, and I left about 40% battery available.

But in the evening, I only could to do about 4km more with this 40%. So the battery level is not well calibrated. At least in mine ninebot.

22 km in the city. And I am near 80kg.

​AFAIK, there's really no way to measure the remaining "charge", so the battery displays are using the current (as in the "right now at this moment" -value, not electric current ;)) voltage of the battery, and there's some preprogrammed "curve" from 100% to 0% or it could be simpy be just 100% = 4.0V, 0% = 3.5V (for example). But the voltage does not (necessarily) drop linearly. I've done 4km on my FW without the battery display dropping below 99% (it shows values between 0%-99%). When it has started to drop, you can see the voltage sag caused by load, ie. the display can show 30% going straight, drop to 0% accelerating/climbing and go up to 85% decelerating or going downhill (regenerative breaking). I've ridden several kilometers with the display showing 0%. That's why I ended up putting a bike computer on my wheel, so I can follow the kilometers travelled, and don't need to mind the battery display (at least as much).

Ninebot might take some samples of the voltage over longer period and "smoothen" them, so that the percentage doesn't go up and down all the time with the varying voltage. But (at least usually) you can't do calculations like "Now I've gone X kilometers, and I've got 50% battery left, so I can go another X kilometers". Just doesn't work that way really...

Reading the beginning of this post might also help to understand this (at least up until "Now the BMS (Battery Management System) of the battery comes into play."), I probably explained it there better:

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Wow, thanks everybody! I think I'll buy the E. But if I have spare money I'll maybe, just maybe choose the E+! I'll give you updates after I finally ordered my first EU!

If somebody thinks it's a really bad idea to buy the E: It's still enough time for me to change my mind! :D

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Wow, thanks everybody! I think I'll buy the E. But if I have spare money I'll maybe, just maybe choose the E+! I'll give you updates after I finally ordered my first EU!

If somebody thinks it's a really bad idea to buy the E: It's still enough time for me to change my mind! :D

​I don't have a Ninebot, but believe they are high quality products, be it C, E, C+ or E+. Probably the best quality wheels are Solowheel, Ninebot and (I think) IPS. I don't own any of these and don't have ever ridden them, so this is just based on what I've read here in the forums and elsewhere.

Still, personally, if I were now buying a Ninebot (I was going to buy E-model a couple of months back, but due to shipment delays, ended up cancelling it after buying the Firewheel), I'd go with the E+ over E, for the bigger battery capacity and slightly higher top speed (around 22-24km/h in E+, around 20km/h in E, I think), I don't know if the motor in E+ has higher wattage rating or not (500W?), but recall someone saying that it's not the same motor as in E. Still, I'd expect the 320Wh vs. 240Wh to make a big difference on range and power drop as the charge becomes lower.

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Today in the morning I have done 18km, and I left about 40% battery available.

But in the evening, I only could to do about 4km more with this 40%. So the battery level is not well calibrated. At least in mine ninebot.

22 km in the city. And I am near 80kg.

​Don't forget that at 20% the Ninebot will start kicking back the pedals to limit your speed.  Eventually it will be only going around 6 kph although the battery is not depleted.  You can get another 4 km out of this but it won't be much fun.  It is about safety.  At least we're not carrying it home!

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Still, personally, if I were now buying a Ninebot (I was going to buy E-model a couple of months back, but due to shipment delays, ended up cancelling it after buying the Firewheel), I'd go with the E+ over E, for the bigger battery capacity and slightly higher top speed (around 22-24km/h in E+, around 20km/h in E, I think), I don't know if the motor in E+ has higher wattage rating or not (500W?), but recall someone saying that it's not the same motor as in E. Still, I'd expect the 320Wh vs. 240Wh to make a big difference on range and power drop as the charge becomes lower.

​You are right on the money with everything you said!  Never can have enough battery in reserve.  I've turned around before I wanted to just because of worrying about being able to make it back before I depleted the battery.  Also, like I said in earlier posts, at 20% battery, the Ninebot One will slow down.  Eventually it slows down to a crawl.  So, even though you might get 25 km range out of it, the last 4 or 5 of those are not that much fun!

The motor is same wattage but different design.  I've heard this from Speedyfeet.  It just has a little more midrange torque and does have a higher top speed.  He basically said the C+ has replaced the E and if you want something comparable then go with the C+.  It also costs a little less than the E.  The battery is almost the same at 220 WH and it has a new 450 watt motor and control board.  Translates to basically the same performance as the E.  I can't vouch for this because I've never ridden one but I trust Ian from Speedyfeet as the gospel on Ninebot Ones!

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I know this might be a little off topic but it's on the same one. Is this even real? 

the Ninebot Unicycle one E+ is US$580 each FOB China. 



Payment terms: 

Sample order, we accept 100% TT in advance.  For a bulk order, we accept 50%TT in advance and balance payment before shipment.



Warranty: We will supply 12 months warranty for our products,6 months for battery, and in warranty period if parts broken against defects in materials and workmanship we will send you the new parts for replacement.



Update software: Ninedroid app can update Ninebot personal transporter software. 


Delivery time:Within 1 working day after confirmation of payment. We have stock for immediate dispatch.

 

http://x-buggy.en.made-in-china.com/product/lBgEwMuJHckp/China-Ninebot-One-Self-Balancing-Electric-Unicycle.html

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I know this might be a little off topic but it's on the same one. Is this even real? 

Could very well be, but do note that you need to pay for shipment + customs + taxes on top of that, which can (almost?) double the price.

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I order things all the time customs is about 100$ paid at the door to the thousand ordered, I ordered a $3800 package two weeks ago and it was $320 at the door.

I suppose I should of inquired about shipping yes, I Was more concerned with weather or not they were real ninebot's and why no one else offers the custom jobs. I wouldn't care if it was a bit extra for a paaint job like that 

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I order things all the time customs is about 100$ paid at the door to the thousand ordered, I ordered a $3800 package two weeks ago and it was $320 at the door.

I suppose I should of inquired about shipping yes, I Was more concerned with weather or not they were real ninebot's and why no one else offers the custom jobs. I wouldn't care if it was a bit extra for a paaint job like that 

​Guess it's different then there, here you "enjoy" a nice 12% customs rate first (that's calculated from both the unit- and shipment price), add that on top, and then add 24% VAT on top of it all (if ordering outside the European Union Trade Agreement -zone or whatever the hell it is)... so  (unit-price + shipment-price) * 1.12 * 1.24   :D

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Can I say something because I might be the only person here tried both E and E+?  I own the E version while I am dealing only E+ and C+. The E+ is much better not only because of the longer cruise range but the more powerful motor and responsive control board. More powerful doesn't only mean faster it means more acceleration when you lean forward. So when you riding in the crowd it gives you the best support to allow you to change your speed to get through I recon that is the key(the acceleration). When I ride my E, I always have to keep it back a bit because it beeps a lot when crossing terrains while E+ behaves much better in that scenario. When I ride E+ with my friends I am always ahead of them while when I ride E I am always behind. The absolute speed is not that much different. What is different is what the motor offers when it reaches around 19km/h. At that E+, it still got enough power to keep the unicycle very sensitive and responsive while with E you can feel that it behaves differently due to fact it is close to its limit. I recommend you to try E+ at least once if you only had E. It is a very different experience. If you are buying new Ninebot, don't even consider E, choose either C+ or E+, the advances are not just the battery, there are more unlisted improvement in details.

BTW, The P model will still come with a higher spec, so I guess Ninebot has changed their mind again.

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BTW, The P model will still come with a higher spec, so I guess Ninebot has changed their mind again.

Hi mengke, do you have more details about the model P or any new unicycle Ninebot will lauch in the near future?

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P model first maybe 3-5 months from now. MK2 next year but it is an different product.

Hi mengke, do you have more details about the model P or any new unicycle Ninebot will lauch in the near future?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey, it's me again! It's almost time for me to buy my first EUC, and after watching some videos online I noticed something. Many people seem to drive quite "unstable", and wobble left/right. Is this because they are maybe beginners, or is this wobbling always present? Is it exhausting to drive like this? If yes, I saw some EUC with two wheels, like the Airwheel Q3 - are they easier to ride even after not being a beginner anymore?

I'm asking this because I have the RocketSkates (like I said), and you have to position one foot in front of the other in order to drive safely. This position of my legs is so exhausting, because it puts quite a strain on my thigh. In fact this strain is the reason I want to have an EUC, because I hope this things are physically less problematic for me.

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