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Another 3D printed EUC project


MattJ

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Ok, after torturing my printer for another couple of nights to do some final small modifications. I´ll probably now leave everything as it is, at least for the time being. I think it´s probably good enough now.

EDIT: Files now available on Thingiverse. I had a hard time coming up with a suitable name for it, but then finally ended up calling it E14D - somehow it felt like a nice name for a fast electric vehicle ;) 

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1677282

MS14-528-15b.jpg

 

 

MS14-528-19.jpg

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Nice job!   If you could get your hands on a horizontally orientated controller board, how difficult would it be to modify your design to incorporate two battery packs in the saddle bags while having the controller mounted on top?

Do you have any issues with controller board overheating?  I don't recall seeing what heatsink arrangement there is for MOSFETs.

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12 hours ago, MattJ said:

Ok, after torturing my printer for another couple of nights to do some final small modifications. I´ll probably now leave everything as it is, at least for the time being. I think it´s probably good enough now.

EDIT: Files now available on Thingiverse. I had a hard time coming up with a suitable name for it, but then finally ended up calling it E14D - somehow it felt like a nice name for a fast electric vehicle ;) 

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1677282

 

 

MS14-528-17b.jpg

 

Nice !   i think you can place the controller ( with horizontal programming) on the top of housing .  You will put into 680wh battery packs ( 2 packs)

based on 60-70kg man, about 60KM cruising distance

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7 hours ago, electric_vehicle_lover said:

It is beautiful!!! I just don't like to see the nuts outside. I would try to make them inside on a hole.

Thanks and I agree about the nuts being visible. However, that would make it more difficult to print as this one is printed upside down and I don´t like to use support structures when printing. But I need to see what I can come up with. In any case, I will probably remove the big knurled ones sooner or later and use regular nuts instead, which will be less visible.

6 hours ago, Lz Lee said:

Nice !   i think you can place the controller ( with horizontal programming) on the top of housing .  You will put into 680wh battery packs ( 2 packs)

based on 60-70kg man, about 60KM cruising distance

Placing the board horizontally would indeed solve many problems, but as far as I know, it has to be ordered that way and cannot be changed afterwards. So right now, I have to live with the one I already have. But should I ever print another one, then I would certainly try to get a board wich can be used in horizontal position.

 

8 hours ago, HunkaHunkaBurningLove said:

Nice job!   If you could get your hands on a horizontally orientated controller board, how difficult would it be to modify your design to incorporate two battery packs in the saddle bags while having the controller mounted on top?

Do you have any issues with controller board overheating?  I don't recall seeing what heatsink arrangement there is for MOSFETs.

It wouldn´t be difficult at all as the two housings are identical. The board is mounted on a plate which slides into the slots. It could be removed in less than a minute and installed on top just as easily if it could be used that way.

The controller board has a huge aluminium plate behind it. No heat issues so far and the Gotway app also shows reasonable temperatures when riding.

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37 minutes ago, HunkaHunkaBurningLove said:

Video up, or it didn't happen.  Tire looks too clean. No scuff marks on the shell.  It's selfie stick time man.  Go for it.  B)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:963866

No excuses now ^ :lol:

Damn, I´m so busted now :D

6 hours ago, electric_vehicle_lover said:

It is beautiful!!! I just don't like to see the nuts outside. I would try to make them inside on a hole.

Ok, I said I wouldn´t change anything anymore, but I just did one more version of the top cover with recessed nuts and more rounding on the edges. I need to see if I can get a decent print of it. If it works, then I will also need to re-do the handle, because the side profile will change slightly.

Roundedcover with nuts.jpg

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An update: I just finished printing my first attempt of the cover part pictured above. It´s not an easy part to print. It turned out solid and mechanically useable, but the roundings, which had to be printed upside down look just awful as I suspected they would. All horizontal and vertical surfaces and the inside look really nice and clean. I´m having doubts whether I can get an acceptably looking print of the rounded parts. One possibility would be to cheat a bit and play around with some plastic putty to smoothen the areas which look bad and then paint the whole part, but I´m not yet sure if it´s worth the trouble.

Cover1.JPG

Cover2.JPG

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1 hour ago, MattJ said:

An update: I just finished printing my first attempt of the cover part pictured above. It´s not an easy part to print. It turned out solid and mechanically useable, but the roundings, which had to be printed upside down look just awful as I suspected they would. All horizontal and vertical surfaces and the inside look really nice and clean. I´m having doubts whether I can get an acceptably looking print of the rounded parts. One possibility would be to cheat a bit and play around with some plastic putty to smoothen the areas which look bad and then paint the whole part, but I´m not yet sure if it´s worth the trouble.

Is that ABS? You could try smoothing it out with acetone (maybe rub it with a rag dipped into acetone).

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7 hours ago, esaj said:

Is that ABS? You could try smoothing it out with acetone (maybe rub it with a rag dipped into acetone).

No, it´s PLA. It would be quite difficult to get such large flat surfaces stay flat on the build platform with ABS as it tends to warp quite a bit, despite heated platform. The only way to get this one smoother would be to sand it and use some putty. I tried to print the other side (without the holes) during the night. The result was slightly better but still has the same problem. Unfortunately, the printer had run out of filament just before the part was finished and continued printing air, so that part is not useable. Maybe I´ll concentrate on riding for a while and save those kinds of projects for rainier days....

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16 hours ago, MattJ said:

The long requested video, some footage from my today´s ride, about 7 km in varying road conditions:
@HunkaHunkaBurningLove  @electric_vehicle_lover

Good video!! is much better to see a video -- and that makes me remember that I should buy a camera to get good videos like yours :-)

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On 18.7.2016 at 7:10 AM, Lz Lee said:

Nice !   i think you can place the controller ( with horizontal programming) on the top of housing .  You will put into 680wh battery packs ( 2 packs)

based on 60-70kg man, about 60KM cruising distance

 

Is it possible to calibrate my controller ( type 30B4 ) to be used horizontally / flat on top? Or is it only possible by ordering a new controller? I could make the design a lot more compact if only the controller needs to be placed on top. The left and right housings could be made less wide and the top section less high while still being able to accomodate the same amount of battery capacity. That would lower the center of gravity and improve ergonomics.

I almost hope it´s not possible since that would mean I´ll need to do a whole new design.. :D

 

 

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15 hours ago, electric_vehicle_lover said:

Regular 30B4 works only in vertical. You can ask to MicroWorks, before buying, for it work horizontal and they will ship it like that.

That´s what I suspected. Still a tempting thought to do a more compact design based on a horizontal controller on top.

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I´ve now started to work on a more compact version based on the idea of having two 16s2p packs, one on each side and the controller flat on top. The double battery which I made with a basic 16S BMS from aliexpress works very well and is much more compact than two separate packs stacked together, so I can reduce overall width. If no battery needs to be placed on top then also the length of the design can be reduced by several centimeters.  So this is now a version with 2 x 32 cells instead of 4x16. Same total capacity but much more compact design and improved ergonomics. The first two parts are already waiting to be printed when I find the time.

MS2.JPG

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First part printed, eight more to go. This time I ended up doing a less ambitious (read: less rounded) version of the top cover, but the nuts are recessed, tightening from below.
 

MC2-pedalbracket.JPG

MS2lowerhousing.JPG

MS2upperhousing.JPG

MS2handle.JPG

MStopcover.JPG

MS2_topcover_w_holes.JPG

topcover1.JPG

Topcover2.JPG

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An update regarding my printing progress. About half of the parts are done and I am really beginning to like the result, which is a lot more compact. You can see a comparison on the second picture. The new version has a handle, which is 10mm narrower, so the actual difference will be even more noticeable.

MS2-printed_parts.JPG

Size comparison new-old.JPG

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11 hours ago, MattJ said:

An update regarding my printing progress. About half of the parts are done and I am really beginning to like the result, which is a lot more compact. You can see a comparison on the second picture. The new version has a handle, which is 10mm narrower, so the actual difference will be even more noticeable.

MS2-printed_parts.JPG

Size comparison new-old.JPG

if put the controller on the top, i think you can get more space for battery pack.

 

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2 hours ago, Lz Lee said:

if put the controller on the top, i think you can get more space for battery pack.

 

Yes, that´s my intention. The upper space is no longer large enough for a battery pack but only for the controller. The side housings still have space for a 32 cell battery on both sides. So the maximum total battery capacity is still the same, but with much smaller outer dimensions of the EUC.

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