Popular Post Rawnei Posted November 29 Popular Post Posted November 29 (edited) My Sherman L finally arrived, here are some 3D print designs just in time for Christmas! If you don't have a 3D printer write a letter to Santa or ask a friend! I share all my 3D designs for free but if you feel like supporting me you can leave a contribution via PayPal: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/rawnei Sherman L - Bumper System https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6850867 A lightweight bumper system for the Sherman L. Not meant to add a lot of armor as the bumpers on the Sherman L are already very strong, instead it's meant to protect from scrapes and cosmetic damage while adding some visual customization. LeaperKim - Headlight Anti-Glare https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6850859 Adjustable Anti-Glare mechanism for latest LeaperKim wheels, fits the light on the Lynx, Sherman L and the Patton S. The light on LeaperKim wheels is bright and have a good spread but it also very blinding for oncoming traffic. This Anti-Glare mechanism removes the blinding from the light, since it is adjustable you can increase or decrease it as you wish between no blinding and full open light. The frame is friction fit over the light, no need for adhesive or screws, it remains securely attached by friction alone. If you print the cover in transparent material as I have done in the photos then it also becomes a pretty neat looking Daylight Running Light with color effect. Sherman L - Seat https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6851606 A comfortable seat for the Sherman L. Attaches to the trolley handle with zip-ties and designed in such a way that you can still operate the trolley handle with the seat installed as there is space to insert your hand. There are 3 variants, Small, Large and X-large, pictured in the photos is the Large variant (which is the one I recommend if unsure), the difference between them is exactly 1cm in height. Lynx and Sherman L - Pedal Overlays https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6613242 Pedal Overlays for the LeaperKim Lynx and Sherman L stock pedals, effective and cheap way to improve the grip on the stock pedals, no need to buy 3rd party pedals. Overlays that makes the pedals more grippy and also provides a riser in the front and/or in the back (both optional). Together with the double sided tape these will add about 2mm on-top of the stock pedals. I recommend printing the grub screw variant for even better grip and longer life span, for grub screws I recommend M4x6mm screw, you can use longer screws but I don't recommend it. You need 40 screws total (20 per side) but it's a good idea to buy spares. Lynx and Sherman L - Footlock Replacement https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6538286 A Footlock replacement for the Lynx and the Sherman L. This is a 2-part print that replaces the Footlock on the Lynx or the Sherman L. The mount for the original Footlock is pretty tall, if you have bigger feet like me and the footlock ends up pretty high the mounting mechanism of the footlock is in the way for optimal pad placement (Photo example provided), I wanted to lower my pads but it was not possible because the stock Footlock was extruding so much above that is why I got the idea to design this. This footlock also allows for comfortable seated riding due to flexibility of the footlock. Lynx and Sherman L - Pedal Risers https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6516333 Pedal risers for the Lynx and Sherman L stock pedals. Pedal risers add ergonomic comfort for your toes and also increase grip with grub screws. The grub screws are M5, you can use M5x8mm or M5x10mm depending on how long you need, I used M5x8mm in the photos which gives me plenty of grip. Lynx and Sherman L - Footlock Extender https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6491595 A footlock extender for the Lynx and Sherman L, similar to the one I made for the Patton. The footlock on the Lynx and the Sherman L is pretty nice and functions decently but it's also a bit small and angled in such a way that you lose a lot of support around your toes. This extender adds width (making the footlock 6.5cm wide in total) and remains consistently wide across the whole length from front to back, the two different versions also add 6mm and 9mm respectively below to make the footlock softer. I have created 4 different design variants which are purely aesthetic, see screenshot. Lynx, Sherman S L, Sherman S & Patton - Parking Stand https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6077662 A parking stand for the Lynx, Sherman L, Sherman S and the Patton. All these 4 wheels has a built in kickstand that is pretty sturdy but putting them on a stationary stand will make them take up less space in your home or storage area as the wheel will be upright instead of leaning. This stand is designed in such a way that most of the weight from the wheel will actually rest on the floor so that the 3D printed part does not need to support the full weight of the wheel. Edited November 30 by Rawnei 3 3 2 Quote
vikingto Posted November 29 Posted November 29 Awesome job aye! Crazy how fast you got these out, seeing as you just got your SL. I'm voting the Blitz be your next wheel. The new begode pedals could use your risers! 1 Quote
Skampster Posted November 29 Posted November 29 Awesome, might be time for me to try using TPU, I’ve got a roll in black. 1 Quote
EPW Posted November 30 Posted November 30 10 hours ago, Rawnei said: Seat coming soon, finalizing. I have a sur ron seat that i love and would like to fit on the SL, do you have any ideas? I'll probably remove the trolley handle. Great work Quote
Rawnei Posted November 30 Author Posted November 30 2 hours ago, EPW said: I have a sur ron seat that i love and would like to fit on the SL, do you have any ideas? I'll probably remove the trolley handle. Great work If you know/learn CAD you can probably design something that uses the bumper handles for mounting, personally Sur-Ron seat is too large for me and interfers with my knees. 1 Quote
Popular Post Rawnei Posted November 30 Author Popular Post Posted November 30 Sherman L - Seat https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6851606 A comfortable seat for the Sherman L. Attaches to the trolley handle with zip-ties and designed in such a way that you can still operate the trolley handle with the seat installed as there is space to insert your hand. There are 3 variants, Small, Large and X-large, pictured in the photos is the Large variant (which is the one I recommend if unsure), the difference between them is exactly 1cm in height. 2 2 Quote
Popular Post Marty Backe Posted Wednesday at 09:49 PM Popular Post Posted Wednesday at 09:49 PM As I've said elsewhere, thank you so much for making your work available for free. I don't begrudge people selling their 3D designs, but it's always refreshing to see people that aren't in it for the money and just love sharing their passion. Thank you 4 Quote
Rawnei Posted Wednesday at 09:59 PM Author Posted Wednesday at 09:59 PM 10 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: As I've said elsewhere, thank you so much for making your work available for free. I don't begrudge people selling their 3D designs, but it's always refreshing to see people that aren't in it for the money and just love sharing their passion. Thank you You're welcome! 1 Quote
Skampster Posted Wednesday at 10:36 PM Posted Wednesday at 10:36 PM That seat is rather magnificent, pity I can’t ride seated 1 Quote
Hellkitten Posted Wednesday at 11:13 PM Posted Wednesday at 11:13 PM 36 minutes ago, Skampster said: That seat is rather magnificent, pity I can’t ride seated Not with that attitude. 🤣🍻 2 1 Quote
Skampster Posted 2 hours ago Posted 2 hours ago Im still new to printing, I noticed you only have the left side in the files, so I assume you simply mirror that file for the right? 1 Quote
Rawnei Posted 2 hours ago Author Posted 2 hours ago 10 minutes ago, Skampster said: Im still new to printing, I noticed you only have the left side in the files, so I assume you simply mirror that file for the right? Yes that is correct, just mirror the one side, the only thing you don't mirror are parts for grub screws (since they have threads) and in that case I provide both sides. Quote
Skampster Posted 2 hours ago Posted 2 hours ago Im printing the bumper kit later today (filament in dryer currently) I assume that all the settings that come up in Bambu Lab will be good? I also assume there's no grub screws in the Bumper kit? Quote
Rawnei Posted 2 hours ago Author Posted 2 hours ago 4 minutes ago, Skampster said: Im printing the bumper kit later today (filament in dryer currently) I assume that all the settings that come up in Bambu Lab will be good? I also assume there's no grub screws in the Bumper kit? Settings are pretty important, I've posted the relevant settings on the thingiverse page so read through that, for best surface finish leave the stl aligned standing as it is when imported. Quote
Skampster Posted 2 hours ago Posted 2 hours ago The 9 minutes ago, Rawnei said: stl aligned standing Don’t know what that is. Also “layers 1-1.5mm thick” is that the layer height? As in 0.2mm as default with a .4mm nozzle? I don’t know much about adjusting slicer settings. When I set layer height to 1mm Bambu lab basically said “no”. Also the slicer is saying 200m/s outer wall speed, isn’t that to fast for TPU? Quote
Rawnei Posted 1 hour ago Author Posted 1 hour ago (edited) 24 minutes ago, Skampster said: The Don’t know what that is. Also “layers 1-1.5mm thick” is that the layer height? As in 0.2mm as default with a .4mm nozzle? I don’t know much about adjusting slicer settings. When I set layer height to 1mm Bambu lab basically said “no”. Also the slicer is saying 200m/s outer wall speed, isn’t that to fast for TPU? Use the bambu profile for TPU and you don't need to worry about speed. Line width determines width of one wall in millimeters, nozzle size affects what line width you can use, a wall with different nozzles therefor is not the same size, so 2 walls for example isn't as meaningful when people print with different nozzle sizes. I print with a 0.6 nozzle (as described on thingiverse) and thus provide the values in millimeters as well in case someone wants to calculate and transform to the correct wall thickness for their nozzle, your printer comes with a 0.4 nozzle do your walls will be thinner. Example: 0.6 nozzle with 0.6 line width, 2 walls = 1.2mm 0.4 nozzle with 0.4 line width, 2 walls = 0.8mm 0.4 nozzle would have to use 3 walls to get the same wall thickness as the 0.6 nozzle printing 2 walls. The the same thing applies to infill and things get more complicated but I'm not gonna go into that. Edited 1 hour ago by Rawnei Quote
Skampster Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago Ahh gotcha, but you don't mention from what I can see on the page that has the files on it that you use a .6mm nozzle. By the way, I have all the nozzles available for my printers, So ill crack open to .6 Quote
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