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I'm looking to add two new battery packs, and I'm in need of some guidance


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@KingSong69 @Keith @OliverH @SlowMo @esaj I know with certainty that it's possible reorient the board. This can be done simply by recalibrateing both the X and Y axes through the app. (I know that this can be done because I've seen someone on YouTube mess up with the recalibration of their GotWay so that the X axis was not at the correct alignment. I've already recalibrated these two axes myself once before.) The Z axis is the only thing of concern, and once the other two axes are recalibrated, it will be like the Z has not moved at all. There's no problem with this plan. I'm growing weary of discussing this and I'd like to move on.

wuz2r.png

@jer I was actually surprised by Chen quoting me $800 for the 680WH battery packs to be sent to me. At that price buying a whole new wheel would be the better buy, at least in my mind. Unless I can get the price down to $600 or less, I'm not even going to consider upgrading the battery. Where is all of this new battery tech that I keep reading about? If batteries were half as expensive as they currently are, EUCs would be way more affordable. I actually elected on going with a cord drill the other day just to not have to pay for the battery of a cordless drill.

I'm thinking of just saving up and buying the ACM 16 which has an even higher top speed. Perhaps selling my current wheel... but I think that I will keep it. Maybe I can let friends borrow it and we can go riding together. Then again... if I keep it for too long, the value will depreciate, and selling it would help me to afford the ACM 16 sooner. I can compromise by selling it for the price that I bought it for and hope that someone wants to buy it off of me. With the custom pedal mod that I'm working on, I'm sure that it will be more appealing to buyers. Yet if I do sell it, I will be without a wheel for the time that it takes to receive a the new wheel. The thought does not appeal to me.

Instead of buying a new wheel, I could simply ride my bike to and from work, or I could modify the bike to be electric if I felt the need to. Nine miles is a lengthy distance to ride a bike two ways every work day. Especially when my job is already physically demanding enough as it is.

My best course of action right now is to see if I can find someone who will sell the batteries more affordably. I've already messaged several people to inquire about the cost.

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14 hours ago, WakefulTraveller said:

@KingSong69 @Keith @OliverH @SlowMo @esaj I know with certainty that it's possible reorient the board. This can be done simply by recalibrateing both the X and Y axes through the app. (I know that this can be done because I've seen someone on YouTube mess up with the recalibration of their GotWay so that the X axis was not at the correct alignment. I've already recalibrated these two axes myself once before.) The Z axis is the only thing of concern, and once the other two axes are recalibrated, it will be like the Z has not moved at all. There's no problem with this plan. I'm growing weary of discussing this and I'd like to move on.

wuz2r.png

@jer I was actually surprised by Chen quoting me $800 for the 680WH battery packs to be sent to me. At that price buying a whole new wheel would be the better buy, at least in my mind. Unless I can get the price down to $600 or less, I'm not even going to consider upgrading the battery. Where is all of this new battery tech that I keep reading about? If batteries were half as expensive as they currently are, EUCs would be way more affordable. I actually elected on going with a cord drill the other day just to not have to pay for the battery of a cordless drill.

I'm thinking of just saving up and buying the ACM 16 which has an even higher top speed. Perhaps selling my current wheel... but I think that I will keep it. Maybe I can let friends borrow it and we can go riding together. Then again... if I keep it for too long, the value will depreciate, and selling it would help me to afford the ACM 16 sooner. I can compromise by selling it for the price that I bought it for and hope that someone wants to buy it off of me. With the custom pedal mod that I'm working on, I'm sure that it will be more appealing to buyers. Yet if I do sell it, I will be without a wheel for the time that it takes to receive a the new wheel. The thought does not appeal to me.

Instead of buying a new wheel, I could simply ride my bike to and from work, or I could modify the bike to be electric if I felt the need to. Nine miles is a lengthy distance to ride a bike two ways every work day. Especially when my job is already physically demanding enough as it is.

My best course of action right now is to see if I can find someone who will sell the batteries more affordably. I've already messaged several people to inquire about the cost.

Will it work or won't it

After all the debate  there is only way to find out..

Do it please!

Personally I think roll and yaw will go to hell, which might set some alarms as to what the gyro gets will be different to what it thinks it should be getting.

ie roll will no longer be roll.  When my ninebot gets to a certain roll angle it squeals

You are completely correct about  pitch, which is the most important one

Jer

 

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16 hours ago, WakefulTraveller said:

I was actually surprised by Chen quoting me $800 for the 680WH battery packs to be sent to me. At that price buying a whole new wheel would be the better buy, at least in my mind. Unless I can get the price down to $600 or less, I'm not even going to consider upgrading the battery. Where is all of this new battery tech that I keep reading about? If batteries were half as expensive as they currently are, EUCs would be way more affordable.

It's a simple math: one quality cell costs around 5$, a BMS 20$. It's also a lot of work to spot weld and solder a pack together and test it properly. Shipping is also pricey and difficult due to all safety regulations, All that makes the high cost - the batteries are the most expensive part of a unicycle. You can build your own battery to save money, but you need to know what you're doing, and you'll not be able to go under 400$ for a 680Wh. The advantage of that is that you can choose high discharge cells which the Chinese companies don't have good access to.

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33 minutes ago, Tomek said:

It's a simple math: one quality cell costs around 5$, a BMS 20$. It's also a lot of work to spot weld and solder a pack together and test it properly. Shipping is also pricey and difficult due to all safety regulations, All that makes the high cost - the batteries are the most expensive part of a unicycle. You can build your own battery to save money, but you need to know what you're doing, and you'll not be able to go under 400$ for a 680Wh. The advantage of that is that you can choose high discharge cells which the Chinese companies don't have good access to.

It's Not that they don't have Access to The good Cells....You get them everywhere Around The world....they Are just over proportional expensive to The normal  Cells....

here You Pay "about" 600 Euro for 2 Times 340wh pack....but You Know what You get :-)

With this "horizontal-Vertical" question Is The Same As with the protections....We just tried to warn You...Nobody wants to stop You ;-)

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7 hours ago, KingSong69 said:

It's Not that they don't have Access to The good Cells....You get them everywhere Around The world....they Are just over proportional expensive to The normal  Cells....

Not exactly. The production capacity of high-discharge cells (Samsung 30Q and LG HG2) is limited and apparently EUC manufactures in China cannot buy them easily in bulk. On the other hand in Europe we can buy them for almost the same price as the regular cells.

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18 minutes ago, Tomek said:

Not exactly. The production capacity of high-discharge cells (Samsung 30Q and LG HG2) is limited and apparently EUC manufactures in China cannot buy them easily in bulk. On the other hand in Europe we can buy them for almost the same price as the regular cells.

Do they last longer than regular cells, do you know?

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39 minutes ago, WakefulTraveller said:

Do they last longer than regular cells, do you know?

i don't think so, they just deliver substantially more current with much less voltage drop, and thus less overheating when under heavy load

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Okay, so I decided to try recalibrating the wheel when it's on its side to confirm that the X axis can be recalibrated, and it did not work or it did not let me. It only calibrates for the pitch. Oh well.

For recourse, I'm going to try selling the wheel. In the meantime I will still ride it back from work, but I will be careful to preserve the battery and hope for no more headlong winds. I'm going to save up for something like the MCM4, ACM 16, or MSuper.

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3 hours ago, WakefulTraveller said:

Do they last longer than regular cells, do you know?

What Do You mean with "Last longer"??

the cycles You can use them? All quality Cells Are Doing The Same....

 

they Last until their "mah" carries them...

2 Things Are important:

the mah and The Amperage they can deliver...

the mentioned Cells...Samsung 30q and LG h2 have both 3000mah and can deliver 15/10 Amps continous....

for our purposes The absolut best -on a Double 16s2p Packag- Not on a Single 16s1p!!!-  in The Moment Are LG MJ which have 3500 mah on a 10 Amperage continous...there Is another cell, i don't have in mind in The Moment....delivering Same...

1 hour ago, WakefulTraveller said:

Okay, so I decided to try recalibrating the wheel when it's on its side to confirm that the X axis can be recalibrated, and it did not work or it did not let me. It only calibrates for the pitch. Oh well.

For recourse, I'm going to try selling the wheel. In the meantime I will still ride it back from work, but I will be careful to preserve the battery and hope for no more headlong winds. I'm going to save up for something like the MCM4, ACM 16, or MSuper.

Aaah????

i thought "You Know it Works...Point...end...out" and You Are bored of discussing it?

but One Point for You...that You Write it here and Not going with this quiet :-)

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14 hours ago, KingSong69 said:

the mentioned Cells...Samsung 30q and LG h2 have both 3000mah and can deliver 15/10 Amps continous....

for our purposes The absolut best -on a Double 16s2p Packag- Not on a Single 16s1p!!!-  in The Moment Are LG MJ which have 3500 mah on a 10 Amperage continous...there Is another cell, i don't have in mind in The Moment....delivering Same...

it's not that simple. If you have two 16s2p packs, indeed 10Amp 3500mAh cells are ok. If you have one 16s2p or two 16s1p and a 500W+ wheel, 2x10Amp is not enough, and I would (and I did) by all means sacrifice the extra 500mAh capacity for higher discharge rate. In fact, because of the higher voltage drop under load 3500mAh/10A batteries may even last shorter than 3000mAh/20A!

Sammy 30Q and LG HG2 both can deliver sustained 20A. officially 30Q is rated for 15A, but that's because Samsung always under-rates their cells. In tests they perform almost the same (or Samsung even a tiny bit better in some aspects).

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7 hours ago, Tomek said:

it's not that simple. If you have two 16s2p packs, indeed 10Amp 3500mAh cells are ok. If you have one 16s2p or two 16s1p and a 500W+ wheel, 2x10Amp is not enough, and I would (and I did) by all means sacrifice the extra 500mAh capacity for higher discharge rate. In fact, because of the higher voltage drop under load 3500mAh/10A batteries may even last shorter than 3000mAh/20A!

Sammy 30Q and LG HG2 both can deliver sustained 20A. officially 30Q is rated for 15A, but that's because Samsung always under-rates their cells. In tests they perform almost the same (or Samsung even a tiny bit better in some aspects).

You Are absolutly right :-)

thats wh my i Wrote: -on two 16s2p packs-!!! And NOT on a smaller One!!!! ...that was The Short Version of that You Need higher Amperage on smaller packs ;-)

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