I broke an axle bolt in Sherman Max axle and need it removed. Can i buy an axle?

[BKW]

I've tried what i could to get this broken bolt removed and I can't.

There are two options I feel i'm left with: 1) take it to a machine shop and see if they'll bore it out, or 2) possibly buy another axle to replace?

 

Is it possible I can replace the axle for the veteran sherman max? I don't even see it for sale anywhere.

I've attached pictures of the broken bolt

Edited July 24 by BKW

[novazeus]

u could try an easy out.

[Hellkitten]

Try cutting a slot with a roto tool or hacksaw. Apply some heat via soldering iron or torch. Use a slot head screwdriver and try and extract. Or use a bolt extraction tool. 

[BKW]

So far I’ve used an easy out, an extracting tool, I’ve hacksawed it and tried to use a flathead and a hammer to tap it loose. None of these methods have worked. The easy out might work but I don’t have a bit or drill good enough to drill deep to bite with the easy out.

this bolt snapped when I was tightened it with with an extended leverage point bar and it had some loctite on it as well. It’s on there good.

ill keep trying because it’s either I replace the bolt, somehow buy an axle to replace, or find a machine shop that can take it out

Any more suggestions/ideas are welcome. I’d gladly buy an axle if I can do it but I don’t think it’s possible given how unique the axle is, not sure 

Edited July 24 by BKW

[OldFartRides]

Looks like it’s sticking out plenty far enough to grab it with vise-grips. Get ‘em along side good and tight with the sharp teeth, and very slowly and carefully try just barely move it one way or the other. Tease it out. 
If you try the extraction method, study up good on YouTube first. Learn the pitfalls before trying that method. It’s definitely an art.

[alcatraz]

Get someone to weld a nut onto that. 

[BKW]

I've tried everything (minus the welding nut to bolt part). I cannot remove this broken bolt.

It's a shame to think I would have to buy a whole motor JUST because a broken bolt I can't remove.

Does anyone know if the axle itself can be remolded? Or if I can buy and axle somewhere?

[on one]

Maybe an epoxy or a liquid weld? It could save your wheel if you do it right and choose the right chemicals for the metal type of your axle. JB weld comes to mind, but there might be something better. You could talk to an auto shop about it, but it's likely they would poo poo what you are trying to do. Still, an auto shop or a welding shop might know about a more suitable chemical than jb weld.

Usually I try to avoid potentially toxic chemicals, but you could get a respirator for this job, or it might not be that bad of an exposure if it's just a one time thing in a well ventilated workspace.

Maybe a combination of metal work and epoxy could do the trick. Since it seems like you might have already changed the shape of the break point by trying to remove the axle with whatever tools you had, like vice grips and the like. Go ahead and create a cone and then form an insert cone shape, then use the chemical to weld your cone together.

Edited July 28 by on one
further

[techyiam]

1 hour ago, BKW said:

I've tried everything (minus the welding nut to bolt part). I cannot remove this broken bolt.

It's a shame to think I would have to buy a whole motor JUST because a broken bolt I can't remove.

Does anyone know if the axle itself can be remolded? Or if I can buy and axle somewhere?

It's way easier and cheaper to just get a nut welded onto the broken bolt.

[alcatraz]

The heat from the welding process does a lot to loosen the bolt so it's not just about attaching a nut. 

[techyiam]

14 minutes ago, alcatraz said:

The heat from the welding process does a lot to loosen the bolt so it's not just about attaching a nut. 

Exactly. 

Any type of thread locking compound would have broken its bond, regardless of amount and type.

Plus the axle is steel, not aluminum alloy.

[BKW]

Yeah, I tried JB weld and it didn’t work either. Right now I’m looking at tapping it out or welding it. I’ll see if I can find someone here in Manhattan that will weld a nut to it. Everything like this is typically expensive in Manhattan but probably cheaper than buying taps and crossing my finger that would work

the picture is a nut I put over with jb weld which didn’t work at all:

[BKW]

This picture is a screw I put inside then put the nut over then put the JB weld over it for 24 hours.
 

I should probably weld something to it soon since the more I mess with it the less it is protruding and less to weld to

Edited July 28 by BKW

[Funky]

Does those bolts have tread lock? If not - Apply really good WD-40 and let it sit for a time. (You could make a damb around the bolt and let it sink in said WD-40) Afterwards weld that nut. (Actually first weld and then let it sit in the WD-40)

Also heat the axle - not the bolt, when you gonna open the bolt..

You can always drill it out - and make new treads - one size bigger screw.... Last resort.

Edited July 28 by Funky

[Anthraksi]

On 7/24/2024 at 4:50 AM, BKW said:

this bolt snapped when I was tightened it with with an extended leverage point bar and it had some loctite on it as well. It’s on there good.

It's like these things got torque specs for a reason!

Remarks aside if you really used something that sturdy to make sure it's tight, you are probably going to have to use something as sturdy to remove it. Weld the nut on it and attach the same setup onto the bolt that you already used. But instead of applying even pressure by hand, tap it with a hammer. I have gotten some stubborn bolts loose that way, even though I used the "cut a slit into the head and use a flathead"-tactic and just attached a wrench onto the screwdriver which I then tapped with a hammer.

Screwing it out is an option too, but not sure about how viable it is to rethread the hole one size bigger, as it might be too close to the edge then. Nothing to lose by trying though.

[alcatraz]

If the nut doesn't work you'll probably need to drill it out. It's tricky to drill hardened steel. You'll probably need a drill press.

[Punxatawneyjoe]

If there is a stud still sticking out, maybe you can just grab it with a pair of vise grips.

[BKW]

UPDATE:

So i bought a cheap welder. Going to weld the nut on myself.

I tried contacting people to see if they can do a quick weld and the only response I got was some guy trying to get me to send him 20 dollars for a couple texts back and forth (i didn't). I bought a welder under 60 -- the price to pay someone to do it would be more than that near where I live. At least if I come across another situation like this I'll have the equipment.

It should arrive within a week. Make fun of me all you want but the reason i tried avoiding welding on a nut to begin with was because i knew it was going to be expensive and hard to find in Manhattan. I literally feel like i don't have any other option. If this doesn't work then I'm not even sure i'd go through with tapping it out as i would have to buy the equipment for that too

here's the cheap-ass welder I bought (bought it from Temu for under 60 [ironically discontinued now]):

https://www.amazon.com/Handheld-Machine-Portable-𝟐𝟎-𝟐𝟎𝟎𝐀𝐦𝐩-Inverter/dp/B0CN4D61TM?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A1DUX97HU7TXA7&th=1

 

[Funky]

9 hours ago, BKW said:

UPDATE:

So i bought a cheap welder. Going to weld the nut on myself.

I tried contacting people to see if they can do a quick weld and the only response I got was some guy trying to get me to send him 20 dollars for a couple texts back and forth (i didn't). I bought a welder under 60 -- the price to pay someone to do it would be more than that near where I live. At least if I come across another situation like this I'll have the equipment.

It should arrive within a week. Make fun of me all you want but the reason i tried avoiding welding on a nut to begin with was because i knew it was going to be expensive and hard to find in Manhattan. I literally feel like i don't have any other option. If this doesn't work then I'm not even sure i'd go through with tapping it out as i would have to buy the equipment for that too

here's the cheap-ass welder I bought (bought it from Temu for under 60 [ironically discontinued now]):

https://www.amazon.com/Handheld-Machine-Portable-𝟐𝟎-𝟐𝟎𝟎𝐀𝐦𝐩-Inverter/dp/B0CN4D61TM?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A1DUX97HU7TXA7&th=1

 

FYI: Try welding some NUTS to some random metal first.. (Or if you got some neighbor you hate.. Weld their mailbox shut or house doors.)  Before you go and ruin axle even more.

Edited August 6 by Funky

[Punxatawneyjoe]

14 hours ago, BKW said:

So i bought a cheap welder. Going to weld the nut on myself

You bought a stick welder, which means you will have to "strike an arc" in order to weld. It's more difficult than a wire feed welder that you just point and pull the trigger. Might be tough "striking an arc" onto the nut that isn't held down by anything. This welder might be easier:

https://www.amazon.com/HITBOX-Gasless-Portable-Inverter-Multiprocess/dp/B0B8YHJ4YD/ref=sr_1_4?

 

[BKW]

16 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

You bought a stick welder, which means you will have to "strike an arc" in order to weld. It's more difficult than a wire feed welder that you just point and pull the trigger. Might be tough "striking an arc" onto the nut that isn't held down by anything. This welder might be easier:

https://www.amazon.com/HITBOX-Gasless-Portable-Inverter-Multiprocess/dp/B0B8YHJ4YD/ref=sr_1_4?

 

thanks, but in all honesty, i've seen a lot of videos on this welder and it looks very simple to use. literally just put the stick on the area and press the trigger. i don't think i'll have any issues unless it craps out on me or if i weld too hot.

As far as the nut not moving, I've seen people superglue the bolt on first to hold it. I won't even have to do that though as the nut is on snug without the weld

Edited August 6 by BKW