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Posted

Duf gets to be the first person to extensively test the EWheels Sherman L
 

 

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Posted

Let us know if that motor noise goes away in later firmware updates. Mine won’t be here for at least 6 weeks, so hopefully it’s sorted by then. Also I hope Leaperkim are paying attention, my wheel hasn’t been made as of yet. 

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Posted

nice professional video Marty! I couldn't agree more about making you wheel work for you how you want through DIY.

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Posted

So this is what I'm talking about, @Marty Backe why are you guys not tightening those important clamp and battery screws with a torque wrench? 😆

That is how things become loose eventually.

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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Rawnei said:

So this is what I'm talking about, @Marty Backe why are you guys not tightening those important clamp and battery screws with a torque wrench? 😆

That is how things become loose eventually.

That is bad. 

There's no notion of how important proper tightening torque needs to be.

And it isn't just the axle bolts clamping the stanchion. The primary spring weight is the rider. And he is supported by the pedals, which are directly fastened to the battery cases. Which in turn are bolted to the suspension strut. So it is crucial that those bolts are properly fastened too. And so on. Notice when those bolts were removed, it was apparent that they were well fastened. 

Having said that, Roger did ran over some of the screws with a T-handle. For an experienced mechanic, that could work.

Also, unnecessary damage to rim due to laziness (not his wheel?), or bad choice of technique used. 

Mind you, Roger did give good alternatives to seat the tubeless tire beads.

I personally use a high volume compressor (not that high, not for a car tire), remove valve stem, and use high volume air nozzle. This will reliably seat tubeless tire beads.

Edited by techyiam
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Posted
5 hours ago, techyiam said:

That is bad. 

There's no notion of how important proper tightening torque needs to be.

And it isn't just the axle bolts clamping the stanchion. The primary spring weight is the rider. And he is supported by the pedals, which are directly fastened to the battery cases. Which in turn are bolted to the suspension strut. So it is crucial that those bolts are properly fastened too. And so on. Notice when those bolts were removed, it was apparent that they were well fastened. 

Having said that, Roger did ran over some of the screws with a T-handle. For an experienced mechanic, that could work.

Also, unnecessary damage to rim due to laziness (not his wheel?), or bad choice of technique used. 

Mind you, Roger did give good alternatives to seat the tubeless tire beads.

I personally use a high volume compressor (not that high, not for a car tire), remove valve stem, and use high volume air nozzle. This will reliably seat tubeless tire beads.

Yes, we do horrible work but it gets the job done and most importantly we have fun riding our EUC's. YMMV.

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

Yes, we do horrible work but it gets the job done and most importantly we have fun riding our EUC's. YMMV.

Well, in the short term, that may seem fine for those who are hard on their Leaper Kim suspension wheels. 

But eventually, those load bearing components without being properly fastened could lead to unwanted flex, due to accelerated wear.

Edited by techyiam
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Posted
46 minutes ago, techyiam said:

Well, in the short term, that may seem fine for those who are hard on their Leaper Kim suspension wheels. 

But eventually, those load bearing components without being properly fastened could lead to unwanted flex, due may to accelerated wear.

Lots of "maybe's". Kind of like all the battery charging precautions that some people take. I just ride. If issues come up our EUC's are super simple to work on.

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Posted
1 hour ago, Marty Backe said:

Lots of "maybe's". Kind of like all the battery charging precautions that some people take. I just ride. If issues come up our EUC's are super simple to work on.

Here’s my issue Marty, and I know the battery charging comment was in regards to the discussion I had with duff. Whether you like it or not, you’re a public figure, people will follow your lead, well people who don’t know any better. People like yourself need to be responsible for what you say and how you say it. 
You can leave your batteries charged at 100% for years and never ride them all you like, it’s your wheel, but you don't publicly support that practice considering that battery health and handling its crystal clear. Sure, in the lifetime you own your wheel, you won’t have a problem, YOU won’t, but the person who will buy you last Sherman that has had its battery sitting for years at 100% is buying a wheel that has “technically” been abused. 
it’s not at all a hard task to manage battery health, all you have to do is simply leave your unused wheels at 60% or 3.7 to 3.8v and charge them fully before you ride them. I honestly don’t understand why this is such a hard thing for you to comprehend. To me it’s simply lazy and inconsiderate to the life expectancy of a wheel YOU won’t own till it’s end days. And to be quite honest the “I just ride” attitude you have is not at all helpful to people who actually want to do the right thing with  a machine that cost a lot of money. 
Do better. 

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Posted
1 hour ago, Skampster said:

Here’s my issue Marty, and I know the battery charging comment was in regards to the discussion I had with duff. Whether you like it or not, you’re a public figure, people will follow your lead, well people who don’t know any better. People like yourself need to be responsible for what you say and how you say it. 
You can leave your batteries charged at 100% for years and never ride them all you like, it’s your wheel, but you don't publicly support that practice considering that battery health and handling its crystal clear. Sure, in the lifetime you own your wheel, you won’t have a problem, YOU won’t, but the person who will buy you last Sherman that has had its battery sitting for years at 100% is buying a wheel that has “technically” been abused. 
it’s not at all a hard task to manage battery health, all you have to do is simply leave your unused wheels at 60% or 3.7 to 3.8v and charge them fully before you ride them. I honestly don’t understand why this is such a hard thing for you to comprehend. To me it’s simply lazy and inconsiderate to the life expectancy of a wheel YOU won’t own till it’s end days. And to be quite honest the “I just ride” attitude you have is not at all helpful to people who actually want to do the right thing with  a machine that cost a lot of money. 
Do better. 

First of all, the battery charging comment had nothing to do with you (sorry) :D Battery charging disagreements have been happening since I got into EUC's 8-years ago.

Second, whenever I talk about charging protocols I always preface my statements by stating that if you want your wheels to last 10-years, by all means baby them. In theory I don't disagree with you. In practice I do.

I will continue to promote charging to 100% and forgetting about it. And I will also continue to preface that recommendation with caveats. It's my opinion, formed over 8-years of personal experience and the experience of riders that I personally know.

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Posted
3 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

I will continue to promote charging to 100% and forgetting about it. And I will also continue to preface that recommendation with caveats. It's my opinion, formed over 8-years of personal experience and the experience of riders that I personally know.

Well that’s a shame. 

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