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Wobbly Bracket on My Gotway Do I Use Chemical Metal?


Shady Tools

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While I fitted the new circuit board in my Gotway my friend used industrial sealant & industrial thread locker (Locktite but better) to secure my wheel nut.

Over the last few weeks I have noticed a wobble which is progressively getting worse. I assumed it was the wheel nut again but we just took it apart & found that the nut is still solid but the bracket has worn away.

My friend is suggesting we use Chemical Metal to secure it but is also warning me that we will never get it off again if we do. Any suggestions on other materials we could use or solutions or shall I go for it?

I can't imagine a reason I would ever take it off but guess there may be one day.

Thanks in advance.

 

@Gimlet

@Tilmann

@EUC Extreme

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I do not recommend to put the final mortgage. That will have to tighten from time to time.
Since the aluminum to give up.
Open it to review and put a lot of really strong Retaining Compound.

In fact, I solved the case in my own way. It has been completely functional.

For this reason, it becomes loose.

13968250.t.jpg

 

Never again :)

13969581.t.jpg

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My friend can do that but we haven't got access to a lathe or the tools required. He works on cranes & construction machinery. He's a mechanical & electrical engineer but works for a company that provides the tools on site.

 

I can ride it at the moment but it's getting worse each day. 

Just now, Shady Tools said:
21 minutes ago, EUC Extreme said:

I do not recommend to put the final mortgage. That will have to tighten from time to time.
Since the aluminum to give up.
Open it to review and put a lot of really strong Retaining Compound.

In fact, I solved the case in my own way. It has been completely functional.

For this reason, it becomes loose.

13968250.t.jpg

 

Never again :)

13969581.t.jpg

My friend can do that but we haven't got access to a lathe or the tools required. He works on cranes & construction machinery. He's a mechanical & electrical engineer but works for a company that provides the tools on site.

 

I can ride it at the moment but it's getting worse each day. 

 

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I do not really putting a chemical metal because at some point will have to tighten the nut again.
While tightening how hard. The more aluminum to give up and it becomes loose anyway. The motor shaft will sink into it.
My system is so sure that there is no longer even need a nut :)

 

 

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As the problem is probably wear and compression on the internal sloping section of the pedal frames where the split tapered washers are compressed onto the flats on either side of the axle you could have allowed them to clamp the axle a bit tighter by grinding a little off the back of the split washers.

If however the wheel has been rocking for a while the internal edge of the split washers may no longer be flat to hold the flats of the axle. If allowed to rock the axle has a tendency to make the flats on the washers M shaped and no matter how tightly you clamp them they will still rock. 

You can make new split clamp washers out of any good quality steel by roughly cutting to shape and using a grinder to shape them the same as the originals, minus the M shape of course.

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I managed to make one for one of my M10's when they all fell out due to loose axle nuts when new. I found 3 but had to make the fourth. 

All that was required was a suitably thick piece of steel, I used a piece of a left over solar panel support bracket as it was stainless, and a bench grinder with a liberal amount of patience. It took me about two hours to get the angles and dimensions just right.

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  • 1 year later...

The axes have been dimensional drawings. So, it is worth measuring for each axis separately. That certainly will come tight.
Other dimensions do not matter. As long as they are a little up there :)

For this very reason, the drawing shown in the figure does not have exact dimensions.
Always fit each part separately.

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4 hours ago, EUC Extreme said:

The axes have been dimensional drawings. So, it is worth measuring for each axis separately. That certainly will come tight.
Other dimensions do not matter. As long as they are a little up there :)

For this very reason, the drawing shown in the figure does not have exact dimensions.
Always fit each part separately.

Where is the website that show all your medications?

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I was thinking you could JB weld a round piece the same thickness and depth an the worn area. 

Try to find a local "maker space" club in your are. They can help you make it. Also I you are brave enough drop by the closest university and find where the mechanical engineering is and start asking the students. They have acces to everything even metal 3D printing. Maybe for a case of beer you can score a new design. 

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As with wheels on cars the bolts are subjected to vibration and tension. This makes them have less tension over time. If you do not regularly tighten your screws and bolts the vibration and tension will ruin your bolts, screws and nuts. Never use chemical metal to fix such a problem! Since the tension varies over time and the moving parts wear you WILL have to re-tighten all the parts. The only way to do it is to keep the bolts and nuts at the right torque. You do this by dissasembly, cleaning bolts and nuts with rubbing alcohol, applying threadlock (my favourite is red "permanent" loctite threadlock). I started with only tightening the drivebolt with a torquewrench but that lasted only 5 days. Then I took it all apart, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, replaced all the nuts and bolts (old ones had been worn out due to use while they were not tightened). Applied threadlock and tightened with torquewrench. Now I can ride for nearly a month without bolts becoming loose!

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6 minutes ago, Cryptonitor said:

As with wheels on cars the bolts are subjected to vibration and tension. This makes them have less tension over time. If you do not regularly tighten your screws and bolts the vibration and tension will ruin your bolts, screws and nuts. Never use chemical metal to fix such a problem! Since the tension varies over time and the moving parts wear you WILL have to re-tighten all the parts. The only way to do it is to keep the bolts and nuts at the right torque. You do this by dissasembly, cleaning bolts and nuts with rubbing alcohol, applying threadlock (my favourite is red "permanent" loctite threadlock). I started with only tightening the drivebolt with a torquewrench but that lasted only 5 days. Then I took it all apart, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, replaced all the nuts and bolts (old ones had been worn out due to use while they were not tightened). Applied threadlock and tightened with torquewrench. Now I can ride for nearly a month without bolts becoming loose!

Good advice but its just bad engineering. My car does not come apart with time. Neither my wheel lugs. That is just ridiculous. maybe that used to happen is 1920 model-T. Engineered fastening strategies do not come loose over time.

Agreed. This design, because they use e-Bike axle with a pedal torque arm putting large stress on the axel, it could come loose considering in some models the nut is not even using all the threads to fasten.

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On 1. mai 2017 at 3:10 PM, EUC Extreme said:

There is no actual web site. I wish I could. But I do not want to do it :D
But here are some pictures.

http://aijaa.com/a/jq5up6

http://aijaa.com/a/YMitxO

http://aijaa.com/a/yrlJTd

http://aijaa.com/a/Jljn6M

 

 

Omg those EUC tires with spikes! *drool* That's illegal to produce/do here. I live in the arctic with an average temperature of 5 degrees celcius so the market for such tires that aren't for sale in tireshops is massive. Afaik it isn't illegal to import such tires.... Would you be interested in making some spiked EUC tires for me? :D

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9 minutes ago, Carlos E Rodriguez said:

Good advice but its just bad engineering. My car does not come apart with time. Neither my wheel lugs. That is just ridiculous. maybe that used to happen is 1920 model-T. Engineered fastening strategies do not come loose over time.

Agreed. This design, because they use e-Bike axle with a pedal torque arm putting large stress on the axel, it could come loose considering in some models the nut is not even using all the threads to fasten.

Lugnuts on the latest cars do not come loose over time because a conical design on the bolts/nuts create a more lasting torque when fitted. True I was talking about very old cars.... But as with very old cars these new EUC have not been fitted with secure drivebolts with that conical securing that new cars have on the bolts that fastn the wheels

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Just now, Cryptonitor said:

Lugnuts on the latest cars do not come loose over time because a conical design on the bolts/nuts create a more lasting torque when fitted. True I was talking about very old cars.... But as with very old cars these new EUC have not been fitted with secure drivebolts with that conical securing that new cars have on the bolts that fastn the wheels

I know.  It makes me mad that the mechanism are so crappy and the proper one would not cost any more.

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Yeah making a conical part on the drivebolt is possible, but the difference between the bearings varies so much in each batch of production that the factories can't bother doing it... Also the wear on these smaller bearings are greater than the more sturdy axles on new cars so we need to tighten beyond that imaginary conical part on the driveshaft with our greater wear per kilometer. Re-imaging the driveshaft on EUC so that it uses bearings fitted in a grease-filled housing with replaceable bearinghousings would solve this problem

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