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Begode Master mosfet overload issue. PLS Help with my repair.


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Ideas and opinions are welcome, especially from electronics experts.

Here is a full story:

I love my Begode master and don't wanna ride or get anything else however a while back my bearings needed to be replaced had to do it myself but as I'm a dumb ass I didn't discharge the capacitors when disassembling, this is what I believe caused the secondary 12v or whatever system to blink, blinking screen blinking light blinking tail light it was annoying yet main controller worked fine and I was riding it as expected for about a year or even more, eventually the blinking issue started influencing the power button, it was working worse and worse until it didn't turn on anymore.

Long story short I couldn't get anyone to repair it on time and I ended up finding this great deal on the begode master fully kitted out with updated expensive air shock, fancy linkage, fancy bumpers, 40T cells, and updated metal battery boxes. My master wasn't working but also it was used and abused, I have a bent rim so the tire wobbles up and down... Anyway, I ended up getting the new (used) kitted-out begode master and it was awesome! Mechanically it was great, I was amazed. BUT...

I'm having the best time of my life, truly one of the best EUC trail rides on it, already going back home... it got stuck in some dirt hill... burned mossfet (I know symptoms I blew mosfets on my ks16x twice), now my old master would never be overpowered by a hill of this size it was nothing crazy. What gives?

 

Well, it turned out one of my friends was able to repair the board, he used my other master as a donor it was all working.
NOW! Here is what happened and why I need help there is a 5-step staircase in my apartment entrance, with this repaired begode master (master v1 btw, I found out) by pushing it into the first stair without me being on it at all, the wheel rolled back instead of going up the stair, it's a very normal thing, I wasn't overleaning or overpowering the wheel at all.... it cut off and blew the MOSFETs again. Why?

 

I already got the replacement board, it's a v2 compatible board so I'll basically will be using parts from both masters to make one working and kitted out begode master and a new motherboard but could the issue be somehow in the motor, or batteries?! I would prefer to use a motor from the new master I got, the one with MOSFETs issues simply because its rim is perfectly straight, I would prefer to use 40T batteries in metal cases also, but I'm afraid of running into the same issue with a entirely new controller board.

 

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I am not an expert, or the sort of person you need to hear from, but just had to say something as a fellow Master owner in solidarity with your struggle, and to offer my sympathies for what must surely be the unluckiest succession of incidents one person can have - I really admire your persistence !

We do know that Begode changed the MOSFET configuration with almost every revision of that model, but of course they never say why - do you know which versions of the mainboards you had on the machines so far ?

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7 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

I am not an expert, or the sort of person you need to hear from, but just had to say something as a fellow Master owner in solidarity with your struggle, and to offer my sympathies for what must surely be the unluckiest succession of incidents one person can have - I really admire your persistence !

We do know that Begode changed the MOSFET configuration with almost every revision of that model, but of course they never say why - do you know which versions of the mainboards you had on the machines so far ?

Yes, I now know all of the versions.

The one with blinking and not turning on later issue but otherwise reliable is master v2

The one with mosfets blowing all the time is master v1

 

The new main board is called master v3.1 it's a revision of the board designed to fit in master v2 case, got it from Alienrides in US, and yes I had to fly it all the way from US to Ukraine. But I trust Alienrides.

 

Thank you for your concerns, I'm lucky like that lol.

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28 minutes ago, EdLeszczynski said:

it got stuck in some dirt hill... burned mossfet (I know symptoms I blew mosfets on my ks16x twice), now my old master would never be overpowered by a hill of this size it was nothing crazy. What gives?

Was there much 'dig-in' by the wheel on that occasion ? - we know the Master has enough power to conquer most hills, even on difficult terrain (and even with my lowly 50E packs) but I could sort of understand how we might get into MOSFET blowing territory if the tyre is having to deal with an epic uphill slope AND getting much increased contact resistance from the ground it is drilling itself into. Does that sound feasible ?

I remember once encountering a muddy bank that was waay too steep and risky to ride down or drop off, so I had to try and manoeuvre it down on foot. Like a twat I decided to leave it powered up during this. That resulted in me dropping it into the muddy surface where it wasn't quite enough angle to cut-off so it span up to maximum whilst dug into the ground and I had to literally kick it down the rest of the way to get it to stop. I was very worried about burn-out that day, and believe I saved mine seconds before my FETs were gonna blow. EUC World later revealed some fairly terrifying amperages at play, so I considered myself very lucky to have got away with it.

38 minutes ago, EdLeszczynski said:

by pushing it into the first stair without me being on it at all, the wheel rolled back instead of going up the stair, it's a very normal thing, I wasn't overleaning or overpowering the wheel at all.... it cut off and blew the MOSFETs again. Why?

How deep was the stair, roughly ? 

I do little kerb bonks whilst riding, but have always shied away from just pushing it up taller steps and relying on its epic climb power to get up - even though I know it should be able to do it - something about the overly vertical nature of those just gives me the heebs, and chicken out. I even got a dog ramp to circumnavigate the 3 10 inch steps outside my backdoor in the end.

In a way your experience rather confirmation biases my thoughts in that regard, but your XP definitely serves as warning to the rest of the Master people out there. It's such a shame it had to happen to you ! So, do you think that you were wrong in your expectations of what the Master can handle on a daily basis, or do you think that one version of your wheel was significantly different in behaviour to other to make you question the specific machine ?

Last, corollary quesiton might be - when you do get this one fixed, will you still subject it to the same sorts of challenges as gave you problems before ?

And what are your thoughts on the newer models - perhaps it really is time to give up on the Master. After a year and a half of 'eventful' owenership of mine, I love it, but am fairly sure I won't get another one when it finally dies ! :/

 

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4 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Was there much 'dig-in' by the wheel on that occasion ?

It was an anthill on a steep downhill section I rode my first begode master there many many times with no issues at all, and I definitely bonked into such obstacles before with no issue with me ither over them or even crashing but without overpowering the wheel. At the moment I was like: "wtf? oh well"  but looking back it definitely had enough power to go over that. It was also pretty soft so I don't think the wheel was entirely locked in.

 

4 hours ago, Cerbera said:

How deep was the stair, roughly ? 

Now the offroad thing might be unclear, but this step definitely proved that there was something wrong with the wheel. You must believe me when I tell you, what I did with the wheel that day should have not cut out or blown MOSFETs on any wheel, not even my inmotion v8. This is why I'm worried there might be something wrong with the motor itself, though I don't have any hall sensor symptoms, it was completely stable at speed etc. 

I pushed it up and forward with my hands, not enough force up so it bounced backwards, it didn't struggle it didn't beep it didn't spin out. It was not under any serious load yet it turned off and blew the moss. At that moment I thought: wtf there is def something wrong with it good thing I didn't get stuck in the woods again.

 

4 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Last, corollary quesiton might be - when you do get this one fixed, will you still subject it to the same sorts of challenges as gave you problems before ?

 

4 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Last, corollary quesiton might be - when you do get this one fixed, will you still subject it to the same sorts of challenges as gave you problems before ?

Yes, I will bounce it against a curb and back just to be sure it's all good first thing. I have a great trust in this wheel and its power.

 

4 hours ago, Cerbera said:

And what are your thoughts on the newer models - perhaps it really is time to give up on the Master. After a year and a half of 'eventful' owenership of mine, I love it, but am fairly sure I won't get another one when it finally dies ! :/

IDK, I wanted a wheel NOW!! Not in 3 months via pre-order, this is why I didn't get the lynx, also I have fastace shocks on my emoto, and those leak. I'm looking at the ET MAX if 50kg is not a dealbreaker offroad. I have a friend with Begode Extreme, I think I recommend that one to everyone, it's just a little more money compared to the master and you get great features both for trail and street riding. But personally, I'm into 14-inch rims now, I'm used to it I like it and I don't wanna go back to 12-inch rim EUCs, that's the reason why I didn't get extreme the second my begode master broke down.

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2 hours ago, alcatraz said:

Didn't the v1 and v2 come with different mosfets? So how did your friend fix a v2 board using parts from a v1?

How confident are you that the motor+hall sensor are fine?

Well, it looked to be compatible mosfets, I think he told me he replaced the entire row.

 

Motor and hall is one reason I'm looking for answers here, it's hard to know. Motor doesn't make any noises, or dips, or anything like that. Now that I'm thinking about it it may be something wrong with the motor but no hall sensor, but then... I did go full speed just fine and all that.

 

It looks like I'll be replacing the rim and using my original v2 motor even though that's a little more screwing around, any thoughts if batteries can cause this? Because personally I really don't think so.

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I haven't swapped hardware to the same extent as you. I've only blown a mosfet on an MSX from overheating (wasn't bolted down into the heatsink). Replaced it and everything's been fine for 6000km.

But I would view motors and control boards as good or bad matches. Simply because I've read a lot about board/motor swaps that didn't work. They can't all be wiring mistakes. Someone more knowledgeable could perhaps comment.

One user that got tired with Inmotion board quality used a third party controller on their V11 and actually got it to work. He's got videos riding on it. 

To your benefit the Master is using a hollow version of the super popular C38. Maybe the same as on the EX/EX.N HT RS HT. It's a proven piece of hardware. Hopefully someone can help to get it checked out.

Have you compared the model/serial no on the two motors?

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On 5/28/2024 at 3:38 AM, alcatraz said:

Have you compared the model/serial no on the two motors?

I didn't but at this point, I think I'll go with using the motor in my original v2 master that didn't have mosfet issues even though it means I'll have to swap out the rim.

It might end up being unnecessary but better safe than sorry.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A little update for you guys, I did swap the motor just in case even though it was a pain in the ass.

So I ordered a board called 3.1 that should have been compatible with master v2, it even says master 2 on the board itself.

For some stupid reason the mounting holes are compatible with my master v1 yet the screen connector is for master v2, as I have both wheels I installed a board in master v1 and a screen from master v2.

 

Now the funny part of the story is that I thought it was the blinking issue in my master v2 that killed it and this is why it didn't turn on, but I found out that: surprise surprise... it was the button itself that's broken.... yes I got a new wheel with another issue to deal with instead of checking if the button works and trying to replace it. Replacing the button is one of the simplest repairs there is btw, it's harder to replace the tire lol.

 

I'm happy for now, everything works and I have my dream master with full grizzla kit, Kuba Linkage, and rockshock suspension. I even fitted a Shinko 244 without an issue, just added some bushings on battery mounts.

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  • 2 months later...

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