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Gotway mcm4 modding and customisation


Jug

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18 minutes ago, KingSong69 said:

Wow!!!

This extra batteries are just for the light?

Yes, just for light, 3 hours  autonomy with this pack! ;)

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4 hours ago, SlowMo said:

Very nice! It's good that you found some space for the headlight battery pack. Did you heat solder the batteries? 

Thanks, I really like MCM4 because there is lot of space in battery compartment, yes I soldered batteries with tabs and wires, I did get batteries with headlight, it was 2series- 2parallel rated for 1h30 economy, but it could hold barely 1hour, so I just took off BMS and made that battery pack myself! :)

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  • 2 weeks later...
8 minutes ago, SlowMo said:

My Meilan rear light arrived. It's bright and beautiful.

WOW! :D Excellent, you have more luck than me...   I ordered mine on 4 february and i still waiting for it :(

 

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Just now, Jug said:

WOW! :D Excellent, you have more luck than me...   I ordered mine on 4 february and i still waiting for it :(

 

It should come anytime now otherwise you should file a dispute to be on the safe side.

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@SlowMo, Well i tracked it and it is in Belgium now from 19 march, so i should receive it in few days.

I did purchase headlight and rear light same day from same seller and he decided to send it with different post, headlight with nederland post and rear light with sweden post?!

I asked why not in same package he said "to help you" strange no? 

 

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1 minute ago, Jug said:

@SlowMo, Well i tracked it and it is in Belgium now from 19 march, so i should receive it in few days.

I did purchase headlight and rear light same day from same seller and he decided to send it with different post, headlight with nederland post and rear light with sweden post?!

I asked why not in same package he said "to help you" strange no? 

 

Yes it's quite strange. Normally, they send items with batteries thru Sweden Post.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So, after almost a month the plastidip started to peel off from handlebar, so i decided to peel off all and to go back to original color.

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The same time i had the problem with my headlamp, two days ago it stopped to work like there is no power, i checked my setup batteries and BMS and there was difference in voltage readings, on the batteries and connection "in" of  BMS i have 7.90v and on the BMS "out" connection the reading is 6.65v, so i presume the BMS is dead?:wacko:

I do not know :(

But anyway i decided to take out the batteries of the headlamp because i had very heavy euc with my custom battery pack + this 6 battery pack for headlamp and my mod for headlamp stand (support) with using loctite 3463 and the piece of inox tube i got super heavy MCM4 :(  

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I removed also the support for headlamp and i cutted the tube to be smaller and finding this thread thanks to @HunkaHunkaBurningLove i used sugru to glue it to the shell 

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Now i just need to find out how to power up my headlamp from the batteries packs already in it, i did order a bunch of DC-DC step up and step down modules to try get minimum 8.4v from 5v usb charger on the mcm4 for headlamp but without success.... :( 

DSC_04360.JPG

 

Today i saw another thread where @esaj posted this transformer (module) so i ordered it today with UPS fast shipping and i hope this will solve my problem :)

If that work i will update with photos!

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3 minutes ago, Jug said:

Now i just need to find out how to power up my headlamp from the batteries packs already in it, i did order a bunch of DC-DC step up and step down modules to try get minimum 8.4v from 5v usb charger on the mcm4 for headlamp but without success.... :( 

DSC_04360.JPG

 

Today i saw another thread where @esaj posted this transformer (module) so i ordered it today with UPS fast shipping and i hope this will solve my problem :)

If that work i will update with photos!

Those modules look familiar, I think I have at least some of them in my parts drawers :D   What I don't get is why you ordered step-down modules if you want to step up 5V to 8.4V or above? None of the smaller modules work above 35V or so for input, as they're usually using something like LM2596 for regulating, so cannot use them to drop the battery voltage down. The aluminum cased 36-72V -> 12V step-down module should work to drop the battery voltage directly to 12V, but I haven't really tested it in long term usage or with high power draw (they do say that it should go up to 100W, which is probably way more than you'll need for lights though...).

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5 minutes ago, esaj said:

why you ordered step-down modules if you want to step up 5V to 8.4V or above?

I have just one step-down, that is the biggest one in the photo, because i was thinking that the power for the led strip on the mcm4 is 12v and i wanted to step-down that to 8.4v

the others are step-up and when i attach them to 5v and my setup was 8.5v or 9v, when headlamp is powered on the voltage drop down to 2.5v from input and 4.5v output :(

so i cannot use them.

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That Sugru is pretty handy, but I don't know how much stress it can take if the wheel takes a tumble.  It's fairly strong and resilient, but I feel that it does have its limits.  The nice thing is that it seems to bond to almost anything, and it is also removable if you feel the need to scrape it off.

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First of all congratulations for your mod @Jug!!! I think it's a fantastic idea add some personal features that helps with the daily needs.

I'm waitting to receive all the necessary parts to add a new electronic configuration to my MCM4. The first step it's parallell the Batteries (now I have a 260Wh) and for security reasons I ordered another one (it's the last pending part). I bought the Aluminium DC converter as @esaj posted and I ordered "car parts" this helps a lot with the configuration.  I bought those two buttons:

- one push-button To start the GPS Tracker TK102-B instoled in the shell. The problem of those chinese trackers it's once you On the off button it's not responding and you can never swich off until run out of battery. This helps a lot because in case some one steals my MCM4 probably will push the buttons (Who will not push and test all buttons and posibilities with a fresh stolen thing?:rolleyes: ) and the GPS Tracker will be activated from my phone and tracked via different ways (GPS/GPRS/GSM)

- one on/off This will control the front lights and will be sticked to the Handle bar

Then after check different posibilities of the lights I decided to use this ones. Maybe It's not the brightest option but will help to be seen by others.

I bought also those Usb socket but will depend on the space availabe on the "control panel" if I install it or not. My idea is to have a powerbank usb conection to charge my phone or my tablet when I'm sitting at class o charge the back side light also when I'm not ridding. In the worst case I will remove the original USB make the hole a little bit bigger and install this one.

I saw last night at Aliexpress and I'm seriously considering to add this light on the back side, in my opinion you can wear the remote as a "ring" in the hand when riding at night (and the indicators and laser lights are a cool extra)

The extra weight will be approximately 300gr.(not including the new battery).

Buuuuuuuuut I have and important question and it's: if I make a direct conection from the Battery parallelled Line to the DC Converter, can this DC Conv. drain the battery when it's not being used? If the answer it's YES I will install another on/off button to decide when it works.

All ideas and recomendations are always welcome!!!!

IMG_3893.png

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3 hours ago, EnPagés said:

First of all congratulations for your mod

Thank you @EnPagés ;) and happy modding, you are in good way!

 

3 hours ago, EnPagés said:

Buuuuuuuuut I have and important question and it's: if I make a direct conection from the Battery parallelled Line to the DC Converter, can this DC Conv. drain the battery when it's not being used? If the answer it's YES I will install another on/off button to decide when it works.

Well i am also interested for this so we will need to ask that @esaj or someone else who knows this kind of thing! ^_^

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5 hours ago, EnPagés said:

Buuuuuuuuut I have and important question and it's: if I make a direct conection from the Battery parallelled Line to the DC Converter, can this DC Conv. drain the battery when it's not being used? If the answer it's YES I will install another on/off button to decide when it works.

 

Quote

Well i am also interested for this so we will need to ask that @esaj or someone else who knows this kind of thing! ^_^

Well, I'm not an electrician or such, but I'd suspect so. I haven't measured it or anything, actually I should take a closer look at it, but haven't done so yet as I haven't actually needed it for anything yet. Just quickly tested that it works in general when it arrived.

I did take a quick peek inside it earlier, and from what I remember, it had a transformer coil -looking thingamabob in the back:

OEM-ODM-Large-Current-Circuits-Transform

Looked similar to those yellow parts in the upper part of the picture. Then there were some larger capacitors probably used for energy storage / filtering, some chip (didn't check it closer) and a couple of TO-220 -packaged parts connected to the outer aluminum case for cooling (with probably electrically insulating thermal pad in between), could be a mosfet(s) to pulse the coil(s) and/or a 12V regulator? Plus of course resistors and at least one large power diode.

I think it's a "dumb" step-down converted, and just  just keeps pulsing the coil(s) whether or not there's any load. Transformer coil(s) cannot work unless there's a changing current, so probably it uses PWM or such to pulse the higher-voltage side coil to induce lower voltage on the secondary coil and then probably rectifies/regulates/filters it further to get a steady 12V DC output. But really I'm just guessing ;)  It could also be a single coil and work like a "normal" step-down buck converter. Either way, I suspect that it isn't "smart" enough to know whether there's any load connected or not, so it could very well be sucking power even when nothing's connected to the output. Putting a power switch on the input-side is probably a good idea so you can turn it off when not needed.

When I have the time, I'll replace the blown XT60 on the Firewheel packs, and wire it up with some load & do some measurements with a multimeter and an oscilloscope.

 

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Thank you for the explanation @esaj!!! I think could be very interesting know the result of your tests in order to choose the most efficient instalation.

15 hours ago, StreetMeatNYC said:

For GPS, I installed this guy: Mini GPS

It runs on 60v so I connected it right inline with the battery, so its ALWAYS on, unless battery dies completely, which I've never seen....

How it's working this one? I saw It's able to support 60V... As I have a MCM4 could be a voltage problem with direct connection? My chinese TK102B was a little bit dificult to configure, but it's a 3 meters range accuracy with GPRS (the GPS reception it's very poor in the city). Do you have good GPS accuracy?

*If this is very off-topic maybe I could open a new post for the different GPS or Security options for the EUC.

The transport status has changed, my new battery arrives on Monday!!!! :D

 

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5 hours ago, EnPagés said:

Thank you for the explanation @esaj!!! I think could be very interesting know the result of your tests in order to choose the most efficient instalation.

How it's working this one? I saw It's able to support 60V... As I have a MCM4 could be a voltage problem with direct connection? My chinese TK102B was a little bit dificult to configure, but it's a 3 meters range accuracy with GPRS (the GPS reception it's very poor in the city). Do you have good GPS accuracy?

*If this is very off-topic maybe I could open a new post for the different GPS or Security options for the EUC.

The transport status has changed, my new battery arrives on Monday!!!! :D

 

It works well enough for my purposes, it does have GPRS. Im using it on my Ninebot E+ without an issue. Waiting for my MCM4 to arrive from China.... think they will ship it today.

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  • 1 month later...

Finally i got all parts last week so i finished building my spot welder and then my high quality battery pack!

I can say one thing for this spot welder, it's so easy and safe to weld the tabs on batteries because there is no big heat after welding,

i touched it right after weld and i did not burn my finger ;)

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Arranging and gluing batteries in pair... 

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Welding pairs...

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And Charging...

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And charged just this one new battery pack..

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And last but not least here is my new setup for the headlamp with @esaj 's  transformer (module),

i needed to cut out some of the housing of transformer to be able to put it inside the MCM4.

Because the transformer output is 12v and when i tried to attach the headlamp the light was always ON, so i added another converter to step down to 8.5v!

And that work great! 

Again Thank's @esaj :D

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And i have more connections for 12v for some future experiments :P

 

Now when i have spot welder i can do some more battery packs, just waiting for customers..... :P

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Now this is what I call modding... :D not that there's anything wrong with paint jobs and the like, I just don't call them mods... ;)

EDIT: Btw, do you need exactly 8.5V? To save space, you could probably (if you don't need larger currents, something like 1A or over) get away with something like 7808 (8V linear regulator), 7809 (9V linear regulator) or something based on LM2596 (adjustable switching regulator) or LM317 (adjustable linear regulator)... Some of them promise something like up to 1.5-3A max current (in TO-220 casing), but they probably heat a lot with such currents. Also, linear regulators heat if they need to drop a lot of voltage, but still need something like 2V higher input voltage than the output to keep steady. 12V to 8V or 9V probably isn't a problem for linear regulator, unless you're pulling a lot of current. 

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