Egbert Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 at which temperature switches the GW18 off anyway? Is there a warning in advance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 24 minutes ago, Egbert said: at which temperature switches the GW18 off anyway? Is there a warning in advance? I thought it only tilts back on overheat and maybe beeps? Don't know for sure, I don't own a Gotway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 The ACM spec told us 70 degree on the PCB and you get an audio warning note. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Villac Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 Faceplant today on Msuper2 MS version 850 Wh: Unresponsive/dead EU!! (any help or ideas?) I had almost made it to work today, just finished a big hill. battery was a 3/4 red lights, was moving at about 22 k/hr when the Msuper2 had a sudden power loss/turned off, and after about 3 feet of non-self-balanced free wheeling, I faceplanted. Specifically I rolled left as I fell landing on right arm and right thigh/hip. I was wearing helmet, mouthguard, elbow pads, wrist splints, gloves, knee pads, and boots. Under all this I was wearing a business suit, and surprisingly I didn't tear it up on the pavement, just a scuff on the outside of right knee. I have a bruised/sore right palm (I'll never learn to no t put out my hand!) a sore shoulder, and an abrasion on the outside of my right thigh/hip. Now for the EU: it is about a year old, has about 100+ km on it, and always charges well, I've never been able to ride it down to dead battery. It would not power up: the power button is the momentary push type: no sound, no lights, (no smell either). I opened it up, batteries and mother board appear unharmed, no scorches. I charged for 2hr, but still absolutely unresponsive, unable to turn on. I tried attaching each of the battery packs to the motherboard in solo fashion, thinking that maybe the first pack had burned out, but still no response. My guess is something burned out on the motherboard, but nothing that burned out with enough of a short to leave a scorch. Unfortunately I don't have the tools or knowledge to test component by component. Anyone have ideas? My plan is to look for a way to purchase a new motherboard and swap it out. Thanks for reading! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 If you try to turn the tire (with the power off), does it resist moving? That's usually a symptom of the mosfets being burned (motor phases shorted), but of course there are lots of other components in the mainboard that could have failed. Good thing you were wearing protections, this can happen on any wheel at any time, no matter what the manufacturer / model is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 43 minutes ago, esaj said: If you try to turn the tire (with the power off), does it resist moving? That's usually a symptom of the mosfets being burned (motor phases shorted), but of course there are lots of other components in the mainboard that could have failed. Could thing you were wearing protections, this can happen on any wheel at any time, no matter what the manufacturer / model is. If that is all OK try disconnect the main board to really reset it. Wait a minute or so and connect it again. Heard such a story from a Ninebot which was dead and alive after a reset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egbert Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 46 minutes ago, esaj said: (...) Could thing you were wearing protections, this can happen on any wheel at any time, no matter what the manufacturer / model is. this is what i think, reading the posts about high speed driving an euc. and this is what i recall in mind, when i have light wind from behind and my speed rises up... @Villac good to hear you got no injury and you are fine.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Villac Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 @esaj , @OliverH , @Egbert ,thanks so much! Wheel spins freely, with batteries attached, and with batteries disconnected. After an hour disconnected, re connected and wouldn't turn on. The batteries spent the night in the shed; I suppose it's worth another try at reconnecting and attempting to power up. Since I have not identified a source for a new main board yet I do have time! I am tempted to cut open the battery shrink wrap and verify the fuses are intact. That is a failure thatwoyld have caused a mid ride power off. My right wing is sore today but it works! My wife is shaking her head at me but neither of us is surprised! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbouju Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 Any chance it can be "only" a problem with the on/off button...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 So the MOSFETs should been fine. Can you measure the battery voltage? Do you've the 3.3V at the VCC/ GND of the Bluetooth modul? The parts are painted with clear coat. Are you from france? 2 minutes ago, sbouju said: Any chance it can be "only" a problem with the on/off button...? This could be checked directly at the mainboard shortening the PINs. Is it a V1 or V2 MSuper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Villac Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 @sbouju , @OliverH, thank you and keep these ideas coming! It is V2 msuper, on/off button is an instant contact type (not a clicker). I will bridge it and report back. (Note: EU turned off mid use, which doesn't match button failure, but could match failure of the on/off switch on the main board itself. Of course, after my crash, who knows what other components got damaged post-failure!) I need to borrow a meterthat can handle 60V, but connecting individual packs (the 850 has two 340's and one 170) to a chatger makes charger indicator go from green to red, and connecting individual packs to main board does not make EU power up. Thanks again! Chris PS: I am in central Pennsylvania, USA, but I would jump at an excuse to visit France! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 9 minutes ago, Villac said: @sbouju , @OliverH, thank you and keep these ideas coming! It is V2 msuper, on/off button is an instant contact type (not a clicker). I will bridge it and report back. (Note: EU turned off mid use, which doesn't match button failure, but could match failure of the on/off switch on the main board itself. Of course, after my crash, who knows what other components got damaged post-failure!) I need to borrow a meterthat can handle 60V, but connecting individual packs (the 850 has two 340's and one 170) to a chatger makes charger indicator go from green to red, and connecting individual packs to main board does not make EU power up. Thanks again! Chris PS: I am in central Pennsylvania, USA, but I would jump at an excuse to visit France! The power switch only works if the EU is not moved. So this can't be the issue. I think this could happen on the V1. What ever is faulty you should route the 3 motor wires away from the power line. This wires are getting freaking hot. Specified up to 200 degree Celsius/ 392 degree Fahrenheit. If you try to switch on the motor wires don't get hot? Meassure the VDC of the battery, at the mainboard (55-68V) and have a look if the BT module has 3.3 V DC between VCC and GND. Have you tried only connect one battery? Only to see if one battery causes a voltage drop beyond the mainboard working voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planetpapi Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 @Villac I have to commend you on wearing so much safety gear UNDER a business suit. Generally we shy out wearing anything extra once you wear a business suit. I guess your safety gear did a fantastic job and glad to know, you have no injuries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Villac Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 @OliverH , and @Planetpapi , good to hear your comments! I wear kneepads over my suit pants and elbow pads under my suit jacket. I think I would have torn a hole in the knee of my pants without this arrangement! It is quite undignified when I arrive at the office, sprawl out on the floor, pull off my boots, take my knee pads off of my wrinkled pants, and spit out my mouthguard! A small price to pay to fly over the pavement! So, I've attached pictures, I tested batteries, they each independently had a 67V charge. Hooked everything back up: no luck for me, I didn't get a main board "reset", it still had no response to the power button. The charging port also registered 67V, The main board measured 67V at the point where the two battery wires come in. I disconnected the power button. When I bridged the pins on the main board power switch, no result. I tested the power button: it does close the circuit when the button is pressed (didn't photo this: not enough hands!) Wheel still spins freely, no lockup or resistance from motor magnets. The motor wires do not heat up with my attempts turn on EU. @OliverH , I will have to study the main board markings a little to see if I can figure out how to " have a look if the BT module has 3.3 V DC between VCC and GND" I think maybe it is the row of empty pin connectors near where the beeping speaker connects?? These few new observations strengthen my conclusion that somewhere on the main board there is a burned out component or connection. I need to install a new board unless anyone can suggest a step I should try before that. At least I can charge the battery.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WakefulTraveller Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 @Villac I believe that the BT (Bluetooth) module is that little chip hanging off the edge that is glued onto the capacitors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Villac Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 @WakefulTraveller Thanks!, I'll try to test it. and I can try to link my Android app, but I fear without a power on of the EU, the phone won't find it. ....and it is at this point that I belatedly realize that I have hijacked a perfectly good thread with my miseries. To the original purpose of the thread, this faceplant isn't like any other I have experienced in the past: namely it was caused by or resulted in a completely unresponsive EU. I was at moderately high speed, had 3/4 battery charge, slight uphill, and I didn't mention before, it was about 55 degrees farenheit. I weight 180 lb., the model is a Gotway MSuper2 MS Prior faceplants have been: TGT3, low battery, low speed, warm day TGT3, full battery, overpowered it on a downhill: attempting acceleration beyond capability (I don't think it was an over-charge from downhill regen) and IPS Xima Lhotz, cold day (35 deg Farenheit) about 60% charge, attempt at aggressive acceleration. The Gotway has never done it to me before, and with the 850 Wh battery, my feet get sore long before I'd be on a weak battery! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Villac Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 I checked the Bluetooth module, no voltage across VCC to GND, and as expected, Phone app could not detect a Bluetooth schedule. In encouraging news, I have had the good fortune to find two promising sources for a replacement main board! Oh what fun it will be to get all the silicone adhesive off the old board! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 8 hours ago, WakefulTraveller said: @Villac I believe that the BT (Bluetooth) module is that little chip hanging off the edge that is glued onto the capacitors. Yes. green small PCB (BT 2.0) in our Msuper and blue in the later Versions/ models (MCM3/ 4, ACM) able to handle iOS with BT4. 6 hours ago, Villac said: I checked the Bluetooth module, no voltage across VCC to GND, and as expected, Phone app could not detect a Bluetooth schedule. In encouraging news, I have had the good fortune to find two promising sources for a replacement main board! Oh what fun it will be to get all the silicone adhesive off the old board! Sure you removed the coating on the PIN with scratching? If you meassure no voltage than there's a fault (voltage regulator/ converter maybe a small fuse) on your PCB. Order a new one via @Jane Mo or may be she can assist you what further to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowMo Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 42 minutes ago, Villac said: I checked the Bluetooth module, no voltage across VCC to GND, and as expected, Phone app could not detect a Bluetooth schedule. In encouraging news, I have had the good fortune to find two promising sources for a replacement main board! Oh what fun it will be to get all the silicone adhesive off the old board! If you are not going to use that old board any longer, you can try to use come rubbing alcohol to help loosen the silicone adhesive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbouju Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 If that can help, about the bluetooth module: on my MSuper2, and even when the wheel is powered off, there is a little LED permanently blinking on this module. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Villac Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 @sbouju, @OliverH, @SlowMo , Thanks! The rubbing alcohol hint will be useful. I don't plan to use the board again, but I'm going to investigate sending it to Gotway or other interested party if there is any utility in figuring out the fault. My BT module has no LED, unless it is on the back or hidden under silicone!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurgen Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 as I understand it, you have a linear curve between 2 (extreme) points: 0% speed where you have 100% torque, and 100% speed where you have 0% torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Villac Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 Got a new board from the very helpful @NevNutz at TecToyz; thanks, Nevin! Made electrical connections and wheel powers up! Good news! LEDs light full charge, there is the Msuper whine. No balancing or drive, but the wheel gets hard to spin when it has power. I'm going to finish mounting the board and look up how to calibrate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Villac Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 Board mounted, it balances and drives wheel. Next; remember how I paired it with the app, and get the high temp caulk applied. Havent tested it more than the living room but good signs so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Great. Have fun and get trust to the MSuper again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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