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Veteran Patton 16" 126v 2220wh


Mango

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8 hours ago, Clem604 said:

There is a new rear light available for the Patton, I think it looks pretty cool.

https://hulaj.market/en/veteran-patton/1687-rear-lamp-for-euc-veteran-patton.html

As per usual with that website ' Out-of-Stock ' ... Cool looking light but Id be just happy if i could turn the blinkers off on the original back light

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4 hours ago, Lilvodka said:

Is there any improvements for the latest batch of Patton?

From what I hear no changes we're made.

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On 7/11/2023 at 8:56 PM, Al Alcatraz said:

It's a 3 phase switch.

I don't know from where they got it but I am very happy how they attached it to the headlight.IMG_2932.thumb.jpeg.70a0975c9fb83c4745f601f64aedc78e.jpeg

Hey, I followed this guide, kinda and eventually I got to the point, that I have the light switch working good, but the beeper is much less loud, than on the original light and it's not beeping, when the light is on. Can you help me troubleshoot? @Al Alcatraz

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47 minutes ago, iammimmo said:

Hey, I followed this guide, kinda and eventually I got to the point, that I have the light switch working good, but the beeper is much less loud, than on the original light and it's not beeping, when the light is on. Can you help me troubleshoot? @Al Alcatraz

You probably connected wires wrong, I did the same, it's one positive and two negatives, the positive is shared among light and beeper, black negative to light white negative to beeper.

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On 9/1/2023 at 4:49 PM, Rawnei said:

You probably connected wires wrong, I did the same, it's one positive and two negatives, the positive is shared among light and beeper, black negative to light white negative to beeper.

Would you know to which part of the TRS connector these wires belong to?

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On 9/3/2023 at 1:38 PM, carlitos said:

Would you know to which part of the TRS connector these wires belong to?

TRS? You mean the stereo plug? No sorry I canabalized my stock headlight for the cable.

Edited by Rawnei
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On 8/17/2023 at 12:31 AM, jimjam.nyc said:

Just got my Patton back together. Everything is much tighter now.. There was some tiny amount of play when transitioning back and forth.. (sort of like wrongways but not nearly as bad.. almost unnoticeable). That is completely gone now. Think it was slightly loose motor bolts. These all had locktight on them and were well in place when taking apart.. I think I just tourqued them in a bit better than factory.

I have 1 tiny gripe.. and 1 word of caution.

Gripe.. my mudguard in front is now slight off center.. No big deal.. Its just annoying this happens.. I see this happens on sherman s as well.. Not sure if there is any way to avoid that

Caution. Make sure your tubes have the valve stem that sits paralell to the wheel.. not the one that kind of sits at an angle.. I had a tube where the bent stem kind of pointed outward from the tube.. It fits fine.. Its just really really hard to get the pump on head on it. I will probably change this out next time I take this thing apart.

I got the heidenau k38 (not k34) I think the k34 is not really the tire wrongway got. The K34 seems to not be offered in the 3.00x12 size (at least in the US). The k38 is a vintage scooter tire and looks like it could be pretty great. I will start to ride today and if people are interested I will give some feedback.

 

 

 

 

re the motor bolts - it sounds as though they aren't a good fit for the holes they're in. That's a concern.

re the mudguard - is the mudguard off center or is it the wheel? I saw a video yesterday of Jon Purcell giving a review of the sherman s. It sounds like he was able to adjust the centering of the wheel while reassembling 

 

Edited by Uras
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2 hours ago, Rawnei said:

New firmware out, adjustable volume on button presses like Sherman S.

Point 3 I'm guessing is related to overvoltage, some kind of alarm perhaps?

Screenshot_20230906_171110_Google.jpg.2c7734c58fc02b4e1555fc23326f5476.jpg

Yeah it beeps constantly over 126v. It's pretty annoying but intended, especially given I live up a hill

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2 minutes ago, Critzlez said:

Yeah it beeps constantly over 126v. It's pretty annoying but intended, especially given I live up a hill

Mine charges to just over 126v So does that mean it Will constantly beep until the voltage drops a little while riding? That would be annoying af 

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5 hours ago, Rawnei said:

Ah that sounds like abn oversimplified implementipn, good thing the top percentages go away so fast.

Just went for a ride with the new firmware. I was at 125.5V at the start. Rode about a mile of slight up and down hill and saw some other EUC friends up ahead of me. I sped up to catch them but had to do a hard stop for a light, and when I did, the wheel made a loud beep and displayed "Full xx". I didn't catch the xx part. Then the display auto switched from the odometer over to voltage and stayed there. I don't normally ride with the voltage displayed and I noticed that it would swing a couple of volts when testing some hard braking.

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14 minutes ago, Critzlez said:

Ewheels said this   is the parameter for alarming:

1. Hard braking at 124V+, it will alarm at once

2. Continuously downhill or slowly braking more than 3s at 124V+, it will alarm

Interesting, did they say this to you in person or posted it somewhere?

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15 hours ago, buffs said:

Just went for a ride with the new firmware. I was at 125.5V at the start. Rode about a mile of slight up and down hill and saw some other EUC friends up ahead of me. I sped up to catch them but had to do a hard stop for a light, and when I did, the wheel made a loud beep and displayed "Full xx". I didn't catch the xx part. Then the display auto switched from the odometer over to voltage and stayed there. I don't normally ride with the voltage displayed and I noticed that it would swing a couple of volts when testing some hard braking.

I'm a big dude, all my braking is relatively hard. this update put me in danger. i'm out in traffic with my dependable wheel now suddenly beeping at me and trying to get me off of it. over 600 miles in, pretty sure i'm not going to fry the motherboard from overvoltage. 

but now i'm nervous about charging to full in the future.

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6 minutes ago, dredwheel said:

I'm a big dude, all my braking is relatively hard. this update put me in danger. i'm out in traffic with my dependable wheel now suddenly beeping at me and trying to get me off of it. over 600 miles in, pretty sure i'm not going to fry the motherboard from overvoltage. 

but now i'm nervous about charging to full in the future.

All it does is beeping though? Annoying sure but hardly see how that puts you in more danger than before or how the wheel is trying to get you off it?

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1 hour ago, davewood1982 said:

If this is happening on the latest firmware then i don't think ill be updating mine, if it's just gonna be beeping constantly at anything over 125v when braking then it's gonna be irritating as hell.

Damn, sure is annoying knowing when you're potentially damaging your batteries! :)

I was always mystified that EUCs let you charge the cells to 100% and then ride them, literally any braking above 10mph or so results in current being forced into the batteries. Definitely not safe in the long term.

 

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1 hour ago, jimjam.nyc said:

Do other peoples wheels stay at 126-124 volts for that long? Mine is down to under 124 in NO TIME from full charge

Exactly 26 secons for me by log.

And 123V is after 74 seconds.

Ride is here:

https://euc.world/tour/624955545997346

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2 minutes ago, dycus said:

I was always mystified that EUCs let you charge the cells to 100% and then ride them

4.2V is not really the upper limit of what li-ion batteries can be charged to, it is more like a general agreement that that is the voltage that can still deliver good capacity while not making the battery deteriorate too quickly. RC car racers often charge their batteries to 4.3V for a race which will give them great additional power for a lap or two but ruins the battery (for racing) within two or three races.

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