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vf5 juddering after tube change


DimitriOgden

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After changing the tube I've put my inmotion vf5 back together but it seems to now have a judder.  Its a second hand wheel and its been fine riding without a problem(2 weeks of riding). This is the first time I've opened it up. One place that I think there might be an issue is with the cable that I need to unattached from the mother board(not the yellow, green, or blue cable) in order to change the wire. The "white" casing that holds it to the mother board is not attached to the mother board. One of the pins is slightly bent. Saying all that it feels solid when I attached it all.  Could this be an area causing a problem like this? As I'm quite new to this, I thought I would ask first before trying to double check all those connections there. 

Is there a way of reseting the whole circuit board? Any body else have a similar problem?

Dropbox link to a video and picture of my circuit board

(Sorry I tried to inert image from URL but didn't know how)

Any hep with this would be greatly appreciated. Thank so much

Dimitri 

My diagnosis on the app says "the EUC" is in good working order.

 

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There's also a possibility that the inner tube is too big or has a fold in it that didn't come out when inflating it. This is where talcum powder comes in handy. Put some on the inside of the tire and the outside of the inner tube. It enables the inner tube to shift and seat nicely as it inflates. Fewer tension spots and folds etc.

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18 hours ago, DimitriOgden said:

After changing the tube I've put my inmotion vf5 back together but it seems to now have a judder.

 

You have detached the shell/case from the pedal hangers, in order to access the wheel to change the tube.

Then re-attached the shell/case to the pedal hangers.

 

You need to ensure that the screws/bolts attaching the outer case/shell to the pedal hangers are tight.

Also advisable to apply low strength loctite, to ensure they do not loosen with vibrations over time.

 

The self balancing 'brains' of the wheel are located in the case/shell.

If the shell is not attached securely to the pedal hangers, it will 'move/oscillate' relative to the motor/wheel.

This movement/oscillation, will cause the self balancing 'brains' to cause the judder, as it is causing the motor/wheel to react.......react to the movements that the self balancing 'brains' are sensing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

On 1/18/2023 at 4:46 PM, alcatraz said:

There's also a possibility that the inner tube is too big or has a fold in it that didn't come out when inflating it. This is where talcum powder comes in handy. Put some on the inside of the tire and the outside of the inner tube. It enables the inner tube to shift and seat nicely as it inflates. Fewer tension spots and folds etc.

I can't see any bumps or lumps in the wheel. The judder starts as soon as I turn the wheel on so. I would think if there was a bump in the wheel I would feel it when I rode it or then the judder would occur. However I feel that this wouldn't effect the wheel in its original starting position. I'm happy to take it all apart and check the wheel but I'm not sure if this the place that I should be looking(let me know if I've got this wrong in hy headI

On 1/18/2023 at 5:03 PM, Paul A said:

 

You have detached the shell/case from the pedal hangers, in order to access the wheel to change the tube.

Then re-attached the shell/case to the pedal hangers.

 

You need to ensure that the screws/bolts attaching the outer case/shell to the pedal hangers are tight.

Also advisable to apply low strength loctite, to ensure they do not loosen with vibrations over time.

 

The self balancing 'brains' of the wheel are located in the case/shell.

If the shell is not attached securely to the pedal hangers, it will 'move/oscillate' relative to the motor/wheel.

This movement/oscillation, will cause the self balancing 'brains' to cause the judder, as it is causing the motor/wheel to react.......react to the movements that the self balancing 'brains' are sensing.

I feel like its tight. Here is another video of my issue. I tried holding it tight to see if it still had the same reaction.

Dropbox video of my judder

Thanks for any and all advice.

All the best

Dimitri

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Like Paul said, check that the shell and control board are bolted down to the pedal hangers. If there's any play between them the wheel can go crazy. 

The sensitive component that measures the wheel angle for accelerating/descelerating, is on the control board. If that isn't mounted solidly to the actual wheel foundation you get shaking and lots of other funky stuff.

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On 1/18/2023 at 9:03 AM, Paul A said:

Also advisable to apply low strength loctite, to ensure they do not loosen with vibrations over time.

Don’t use plain old locktite anywhere near plastic though, it eats plastic. Only use the special stuff that’s specifically says it’s safe around plastic!

I use Vibratite VC3, the tape version is plastic safe.

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Thanks everyone who has replied. Ive taken it all apart again and rechecked to make sure the circuit board is solidly attached and I've reattached the wheel to the shell and made sure that it is still tight. Still the same issue.  Here is a video of me showing what I know is tight....The yellow, green and blue cable are fixed well. The other cable with the connector to the motherboard I’ve connected however the bit on the motherboard is not tight and can come off. I have also connect the pins to the motherboard with out the motherboard connector to see if I have the same problem and I still do . The 8 bolts that connect the shell to the wheel are tight. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/noceobovdkkxx8f/EUC whats tight.mp4?dl=0 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for replying late.

How well does that hall sensor connector grip the pins on the board? Does it feel like it's making a connection? Right now it appears the hall sensor data isn't properly getting to the board.

Have you sent inmotion an email just to get their take?

One last little test is to see if one of the pedal arms has some play between it and the motor axle. To test you can grip both pedals with your hands and try to rotate them in opposite direction from another. They should be one solid piece. (It can also be done standing on the wheel.) If one arm has developed play, this could also explain the problem.

I know that it's illogical to think a pedal arm could come loose at a tire change. It's not probable. But it might be worth checking. 

What about testing the hall sensor wires with a multimeter. I bet there's a way to analyze them. I hear there are three sensor wires, one like 5v power supply wire and one ground wire. As you're spinning the wheel by hand with 5v supplied to the hall sensors, you're supposed to get readings like 120deg apart from eachother on the hall sensor wires. I'm just guessing here but I don't believe I'm completely wrong. It's worth looking into. It can help you determine if it's a problem with the motor or the controller. It can help you identify which wire is causing the problem. Maybe it sheared when changing the tire etc. 

5v can be had from any usb cable cut and spliced with the input on the motor. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have some experience having seen this exact problem with this exact wheel. The culprit was the main bolt that secures the pedal hangers on to the motor axle causes problems like this the most frequently on Inmotion wheels. For some reason, they haven’t been cinching them down hard enough, or perhaps not using the right thread locker.

This is the biggest bolt on the euc. It requires dropping the motor out, red loctite, and then applying a lot of leverage using two wrenches (one on each side to prevent it from spinning).

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