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Master V2.3 down for the count


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On 1/16/2023 at 8:16 AM, Magman116 said:

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This pic shows the origin of the heating: overcurrent in the motor drive electronics. 
Root cause is almost impossible to say- could be damage or shorting (e.g. of a control circuit); or a firmware glitch; or a chip failure. 
Bad luck; there's no way you could have known about it beforehand, don't feel guilty. 
Warranty time.

Annoying that the fuses didn't open more quickly than the circuits.
The fuses may have eventually opened- would be interesting to check them for continuity now (located on the charging port board).
 

Edited by RagingGrandpa
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Just to let everyone know I heard from my dealer, Andrew at Speedyfeet today, who is kindly sending me the Rev 3 charge board under warranty, pre-emptively. Previously to my reporting this fire they were not sending them out by default to batch 3 Master owners, but might be now, but if anyone else here bought theirs there, they do have them in stock, and will send if requested.

Edited by Cerbera
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I asked Andrey at MyEwheel about the one I had and it's the latest so I will be installing that in mine, one of the few perks already having my Master disassembled I guess. 🤣

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1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

I asked Andrey at MyEwheel about the one I had and it's the latest so I will be installing that in mine, one of the few perks already having my Master disassembled I guess. 🤣

Well if anyone deserves a small rainbow in all this darkness it's you, my friend... :)

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1 hour ago, Cerbera said:

Well if anyone deserves a small rainbow in all this darkness it's you, my friend... :)

Part installed, not too hard but some tips when you get yours:

You don't have to remove the motherboard but you do have to remove the motherboard screws so that you can angle motherboard up a little bit as it overlaps the charge-board, make sure you have some silicone at home to put on the screws and the display connector after you re-install them (to help keeping them from coming loose from vibrations).

I also put some silicone where the screws go out on the other side of the chassis beneath the control board, probably not necessary as water ingress there is unlikely but I figured why not while I had ti easily accessible, just make sure to clean around there first.

Also installed the 3D printed waterproofing seals that I have designed over the bearings, I will have to test them before I release them but motor was turning smoothly as well as some bushing stabilizers that I have to test.

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21 hours ago, Paul A said:

 

Eevee's insurance company (and re-insurers) do not want exposure to the US.

They are discriminating accordingly.

Yes, unfortunately our product liability insurance company will only provide us with US liability insurance if we have a liability waiver on our website. It's unfortunate but it was the only way we could get insurance for the US market as a Canadian company operating out of Canada. 

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3 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Cross linking this here - how to switch out charge board (and the satellite one) in case anyone needs it...

Notes on installing Master LCD driver.pdf 188.01 kB · 0 downloads

Kindly provided by Andrew at Speedyfeet...

Ouf, I wouldn't bend the caps like that, I just angled the motherboard a little bit it was enough to get swap the charge board.

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I have received my new boards from Alien Rides!!!  It took about a half hour to get the new boards installed and another 15 minutes or so to replace the battery connectors.  I took photos of the new boards before installation.

Before I connected the charge interface boards assembly into the main board I decided to record video, just in case there was something else wrong and triggered another fire.  I wanted a record.  Fortunately, there was no smoke when I connected the boards only a little spark on contact.

 

What I noticed right away was how much brighter the displace was. It was the same version as I had before, but for some reason it was brighter.

After going through the unlock process to get it out of transport mode, I checked everything out and all seemed to be working flawlessly.  It did need a calibration because the wheel was tilted forward a little too far.

Now that the electronics checked out, I covered all the connectors with the RTV/glue to make sure they were secured.  Then let it sit over night before putting the cover on.

The next day after work I figured I would finish putting it together and take it our for a test run. Cover went on then the top pad/seat.  Next I tried to turn it on, and nothing.  No matter how hard I pushed the power button, it would not turn on. So, I took off the pad and cover and pushed the power button on the display board, and the wheel came on. I then put just the cover on and it would not power on.  After a quick inspection, I saw the new rubber buttons were not the same as the ones on my old cover.  The old cover had nobs in the center that pushed on the switch buttons on the display board.  I sent Alien rides an Email on Friday, and have yet to hear back from them. I figured I could take out the rubber switch piece from the old cover and install it in the new one.  Well, that was not an easy task as the old ones had glue on the tabs that secure it to the cover.  In trying to get the old one out, the tabs broke off rendering it useless.

So, what I am left with is a wheel I cannot turn on unless I run it without the display cover. Hopefully, the Alien Rids team can send the correct part so I can get this wheel operational again.

Saturday, we had a company event and I brought my RS19.  I wanted to let my boss try to ride it.  We went to the grass field so damage to the wheel and body would be minimized.  Things went well, until people asked me to demo the forward lean.  So, I figured I would do just that. I jumped on the wheel and took off through the grass, made a turn and accelerated to about 25 mph then leaned forward hard to show the lean. Needless to say, the wheel lost traction and I went down forward with my left knee impacting the ground.  I was able to roll through it and then my wheel came bouncing at me and I covered my face.  The wheel hit me and dislocated my left pinky finger. Not a big deal. I jumped up and set my finger, but noticed a fire in my knee. To shorten the story, when I took off my pants, it was very clear my kneecap was broken in half.  You could also see the tendon connecting to the upper portion of the kneecap was tore and bunched up above the knee. So, now I am in a full leg brace and have plenty of time to perform much needed maintenance on all my wheels.  The moral of the story, always wear your gear!!!!!! I could not tell you how many times I told myself to always wear my gear.  I have wrecked dozens of times, and twice I didn't wear my gear, and those 2 times resulted in major injuries. Stupid me, and a hard lesson to learn. What I paid in medical bills for these two preventable injuries could have bought a couple of high-end wheels.

 

The photos show the old and new rubber buttons for the display and how different they are. The other photos are of the new circuit boards and one of me the day after.

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27 minutes ago, Magman116 said:

So, what I am left with is a wheel I cannot turn on unless I run it without the display cover. Hopefully, the Alien Rids team can send the correct part so I can get this wheel operational again.

If you have something semi-hard with adhesive or double sided tape you can extend the buttons, mine didn't have this problem but the buttons was not super responsive so I cut and put small pieces of eva foam on there to extend them.

27 minutes ago, Magman116 said:

Saturday, we had a company event and I brought my RS19.  I wanted to let my boss try to ride it.  We went to the grass field so damage to the wheel and body would be minimized.  Things went well, until people asked me to demo the forward lean.  So, I figured I would do just that. I jumped on the wheel and took off through the grass, made a turn and accelerated to about 25 mph then leaned forward hard to show the lean. Needless to say, the wheel lost traction and I went down forward with my left knee impacting the ground.  I was able to roll through it and then my wheel came bouncing at me and I covered my face.  The wheel hit me and dislocated my left pinky finger. Not a big deal. I jumped up and set my finger, but noticed a fire in my knee. To shorten the story, when I took off my pants, it was very clear my kneecap was broken in half.  You could also see the tendon connecting to the upper portion of the kneecap was tore and bunched up above the knee. So, now I am in a full leg brace and have plenty of time to perform much needed maintenance on all my wheels.  The moral of the story, always wear your gear!!!!!! I could not tell you how many times I told myself to always wear my gear.  I have wrecked dozens of times, and twice I didn't wear my gear, and those 2 times resulted in major injuries. Stupid me, and a hard lesson to learn. What I paid in medical bills for these two preventable injuries could have bought a couple of high-end wheels.

Ouch, these things seem to happen when we least expect them to, get well.

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@Rawnei I could make something to engage the buttons, but would prefer to have the correct parts. Now, I have plenty of time to get the correct part. If I cannot get the correct switch plunger part for the cover, I will be creative and make something like to said. I could even print some plastic pieces to glue to the top of the switches on the display board.

Yes, things do seem to have when we are not expecting them and that is why we need to plan appropriately.  It is a person choice on what each and everyone of us feels is needed for personal protection. It is all about the risk. I use to think if I was careful I would never wreck. Now I know wrecks cannot be anticipated and happen when we don't expect them too.  Nearly all my wrecks have been off road either due to sugar sand, pine needles, palm tree branches, tree roots or stumps clipping pedals, or mud.  I have been hit several times by the wheel after a wreck and caused more pain than the initial wreck. 60-80 lbs. moving at 20+ mph can do a lot of damage.  My foot was broken in 6 places when a pedal on the wheel hit me during a wreck. I would have survived injury if the wheel did not hit me during that wreck.  Now my injury from the wreck on Saturday was mainly due to my knee impacting the ground at 25+ MPH. My dislocated finger from the wheel impact didn't really cause a lasting injury or needing medical attention. So to me it doesn't count.

I have wrecked at about 40mph and had no injuries, not even a burse, because I was wearing all my gear. I did get to buy a new helmet after that wreck. Down-hill MTB helmets are not meant for high speed impacts. So, now I ride with a LS2 Subverter EVO helmet.  While it is a little hotter to wear, I know I am protected.

 

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10 minutes ago, Magman116 said:

I have wrecked at about 40mph and had no injuries, not even a burse, because I was wearing all my gear. I did get to buy a new helmet after that wreck. Down-hill MTB helmets are not meant for high speed impacts. So, now I ride with a LS2 Subverter EVO helmet.  While it is a little hotter to wear, I know I am protected.

I have the same helmet for summer. 😁👍

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I really like the fit and look of the LS2.  I have so many different helmets from my street bike days, but don't wear any of them due to the weight.

On cold days I wear my Steelbird Air2 full face.  I like to looks, kind of like iron man.

I use to use a Demon FR link MTB helmet in the hotter months, but it broke when I hit a tree at about 40mph. I also have a LS2 Gates helmet, but don't like it as much as the Subverter.

Edited by Magman116
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17 hours ago, Magman116 said:

On cold days I wear my Steelbird Air2 full face.  I like to looks, kind of like iron man.

Ooh - I quite like the look of that helmet, and it is rather reasonably priced. If it was warmer than my TSG Pass I might be tempted to get one for Winter riding - the TSG can be rather cold and lets the freezing air rush up from underneath quite easily... But Steelbird are an Indian company I think ? Does that mean they made it for the mental hot conditions there and it's rubbish in the cold ?!

Edited by Cerbera
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30 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Ooh - I quite like the look of that helmet, and it is rather reasonably priced. If it was warmer than my TSG Pass I might be tempted to get one for Winter riding - the TSG can be rather cold and lets the freezing air rush up from underneath quite easily... But Steelbird are an Indian company I think ? Does that mean they made it for the mental hot conditions there and it's rubbish in the cold ?!

I suggest moving helmet discussion to the helmet thread 😁

There are some great recommendations in there, I use Shark EvoJet for the winter it's both practical and keeps me warm.

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I don't want to derail this thread, but the SB Air 2 is my cold weather helmet.  I can close off the vents and it is nice and comfy, plus it looks cool.

The SB Air 2 does come from India. Shipping is fast and price is right.

Here are a couple of photos of mine.  I like the blue with the blue chrome visor.  I also have the silver, clear and smoke visors.

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Edited by Magman116
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