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My first High Speed crash ever and it was on the S22


Rawnei

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21 minutes ago, Robse said:

Gear done good job  :thumbup:   Seems that 60 Amps is absolute max for that wheel.

Yes it's a possible factor, but also interesting to know what 60A in EUC World means in practice, perhaps one has to look at BMS logs from the wheel directly to draw conclusions, but better if KS did analysis since they have all the facts.

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Sad to hear that you crash but thank you for sharing so we can learn!

One thing come to me directly that I wonder is why it cut out. Especially when EUC world calculate 16% safety margin and that you have been below 16% before.

54 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

 

Voltage per cell was 3.6V, amp was 15 A/cell at cut out. The cells should be able to handle more Amps.

My options:

1. Voltage dip to 109 volt reduced the top speed of the wheel so you get closer to max speed which could reduce the max power the motor can give. From my understanding these motors get reduced torque/power at end of powerband. One earlier datapoint show that 15% was reached at 113 volt, 67,58 km/h and 25,73 amp.

2. Motor controller could have max current limit to 60A and then cut power. This i think is very dangerous for an EUC.

3. EUC world collection point missed the highest load due to being so quick that it cut. Not likely due to it has one more point after max before cut out.

4. Bump in the road made something happen lock

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3 minutes ago, Scoo said:

2. Motor controller could have max current limit to 60A and then cut power. This i think is very dangerous for an EUC.

3. EUC world collection point missed the highest load due to being so quick that it cut. Not likely due to it has one more point after max before cut out.

4. Bump in the road made something happen lock

2. This could be the case, also why I now set 50A current alarm.

3. Sample rate could also be too low thus not sending data fast enough.

4. No bumps, this was our local "highway" relatively new pavement on a long flat straight.

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1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

...but also none of my safety mechanisms alerted me of what was about to happen, it's possible that wheel was beeping but I can't hear wheel beeps over the wind wearing a helmet which I think is the usual situation for most riders, I could feel no tilt-back from the wheel, none of my EUC World alarms that I have configured was triggered (I checked the logs and will detail more on this below), I usually rely on EUC World and respect those alarms.

There is simply no time for any safety mechanism to kick in. A sudden strong acceleration that overleans you (which you pretty much only can do near the top speed, which you did) is going to happen too fast for any beep to sound or tiltback to kick in. You might very well have been a bit below the speed beeps, and then accelerated and that was too much.

Four  solutions for this problem (in general) I can think of:

  • (Bad) Make wheels warn like 20kph earlier than they now do, to have a bigger safety margin for accelerations at speed. Then the S22 would be a 50kph max wheel:barf:
  • (Best) Make wheels so absurdly fast that nobody would ever go that fast (is that possible?:D) and there you have your safety margin!
  • (Good) Maybe high discharge cells can fix this issue! If you have less voltage drop just from the acceleration, you will have more time for warnings I guess.
  • (Reality) Just don't accelerate hard if you are ~20kph or less close to the usual beeping top speed of the wheel.
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You failed to mention one key piece of information: ambient temperature. 
 

I did some digging which indicates you live in Sweden; it appears you don’t exactly have warm temperatures out there, so your overlean cutout is due to the batteries not being able to deliver the current requested due to colder operating temperature. 

 

rule of thumb: hard accelerate 7-10 kph less in colder temps (under 5C) than you would in warmer temps. I learned this the hard way as a new rider myself. Glad you’re okay though! 

Edited by Ben Kim
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1 hour ago, Ben Kim said:

You failed to mention one key piece of information: ambient temperature. 
 

I did some digging which indicates you live in Sweden; it appears you don’t exactly have warm temperatures out there, so your overlean cutout is due to the batteries not being able to deliver the current requested due to colder operating temperature. 

 

rule of thumb: hard accelerate 7-10 kph less in colder temps (under 5C) than you would in warmer temps. I learned this the hard way as a new rider myself. Glad you’re okay though! 

Yesterday wasn't so cold maybe around 10c and this was also not long after leaving home so I doubt ambient temperature was a big factor.

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2 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

There is simply no time for any safety mechanism to kick in. A sudden strong acceleration that overleans you (which you pretty much only can do near the top speed, which you did) is going to happen too fast for any beep to sound or tiltback to kick in. You might very well have been a bit below the speed beeps, and then accelerated and that was too much.

Sure it can if it's PWM based and have decent enough margin 🙂 speed based tiltback is a very blunt and not effective enough safety mechanism.

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2 hours ago, Chriull said:

Here are both of your log snippets in a speed vs current diagram. Don't know how high the "lift cut off speed" for the S22 is and how full your battery was. Just assumed 112 km/h as max no load speed in your situation?

So this would lead to the red "overlean limit" line and the "light blue" 15% safety limit line.

The overlean limit line could be steeper, as the only recorded sample once you fell still had 16% safety limit and you were still accelerating.

Overlean.png.b8de2f30efe8918817b27c583919c96a.png

According to this chart, shouldn't 15% safety margin be reached around 40A and raise an alarm?

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i learned at 18, one guy tooling around on a dirt bike is safe. add another kid on a dirt bike now u got a race and somebody is gonna die.

might be a stupid question, what is "vibration" in the king song app now? i don't think my old king songs had vibration. is that what they are calling tiltback now?

anyway, yesterday i was kinda timing myself how long it took to get all bundled up in protection gear. it's a skillset. 

i was thinking about the euc races, and i thought a race to see who could get dressed in their protective gear the quickest, and then get inmotion to sponsor the event and see which rider survives a 55mph crash the best. 

i just unlocked the speed on my s18, which for me, wasn't even necessary because i'll probably never go 20 mph on it. but it does have like 4 warning tiltback settings in the king song app. does everybody not use the king song app. i know darknessbot is popular, but idk why it's necessary?

and ps, anybody shave down that stupid center rib on the horrible tire on the s18. i guess king song wanted everyone to feel what a 2.125" tire feels like. if the tire patch was round, it wouldn't be a problem. this particular tire definitely needs to be run at lower pressures. not speed wobbles, just falling to one side of the rib. it tries to wobble all the time. super annoying. worse tire ever in 7 different eucs i've owned. i get on the s22 with its normal tire profile and it's like, thank u Lord.

if u get a new s22 from jason and he's putting s18 tire on them for the street tire, u will die. that tire with it's pronounced cent.er rib wasn't made for a one wheel device. i mean duh!

look at the left side of my tire.

 

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Maybe phone was in vibrate mode - sound turned off, or at very low volume. EUCWorld makes no alarms, if sound is turned off, or is at very low volume.. (Don't ask me how i found that out.) :D At least for my it was the case - because of sound came true bluetooth connection. (speaker/music thingy..)

Still there should have been the original Kingsong alarms+pedal tilting. (Ofc if user haven't turned them off. Or set them at max-max speed that app allows..)

 

EUCWorld also makes phone vibrate - when alarm goes off.

Simply ride slower or get "faster" wheel.. I'm riding my wheel at ~80% and almost never go over that amount. (Yeah i have left 15-20% to more safety.. As i never ride "max" speed.) Hitting 70 km/h often. I for sure would not go faster than 65 km/h EVER! If wheels max speed is 70 km/h.. (Even all built-in safety..) I simply would add extra 5-10km/h safety.

If one is riding at very close to max speed - quick acceleration is a NO-NO!!!

Edited by Funky
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If I don't understand this correctly can someone more knowledgeable correct me.

I have found tilt-back on my RS works really well, I set a speed and if I go much above that I can feel the wheel tilting me back.  But if you over-lean and the wheel doesn't have enough power to match your lean and therefore cannot balance you, surely it does not have enough power to tilt you back either.  So, as you approach too high a speed the tilt-back is an effective tool, but for over-lean it can't help you?

Louder upward facing speakers that are set to give maximum volume alert when the power output exceeds 80% or 90% or whatever, may help.  But if you lean hard to gain maximum acceleration then you may go from fine to over-lean before you can react to any beeps.  There probably isn't any fool proof way that wheel can prevent every crash that could ever happen, if you aren't going to ride super conservatively then at least wear decent gear so you reduce the chances of getting hurt.  Even when manufacturers try to build in a greater safety margin, the riders are soon asking "would there be a way of updating the firmware to increase the limits?", I've seen this question asked for the V13 where riders are not happy to be limited to 80kph or 90kph, they want to hit crazy fast speeds and just hope that they won't actually exceed the limits of what the wheel can do - cause, you know, what is the worst that can happen?

So far I don't think I've exceeded 15kph below my maximum top speed on my RS, when I bought it I decided on the high speed version so that I could ride decently fast and still have a fairly large safety margin.  But, after passing 1,000km I have felt more confident in my riding and my speeds have gone up from what they used to be.  I can't really say how fast I'd feel confident riding on a Sherman S with good suspension helping me to not feel nervous about hitting bumps.

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Yep you hit the trifecta there, 1. Hard acceleration 2. Near top speed 3. Lower on battery charge. Glad you and the wheel weren't badly damaged.

Actually maybe not all that low battery, voltage sag made it look low but I see now 122V at rest so mostly charged. Just curious if your wheel has 40T or 50E cells?

Tiltback won't always kick in if there's no more power available, and beeps can be delayed, too quiet, or at the same time as the overlean occurs.

I do find it problematic that safety margin was reported to still be above 15%, meaning the controller should have been able to give more PWM, so maybe there's something to 60A being a hard current limit being enforced. 

Edited by chanman
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There are couple of factors that can make tiltback reliable:

It needs to be noticeable and not too weak but also not too strong, you need to feel and understand that it's happening and it also needs to be responsive to go back down as you ease off, the back and forth responsiveness is an important feedback to the rider.

Tiltback needs to rely on wheel power output and have a decent enough margin, speed based tiltback is not great as there are many more factors than speed that determines power output of the wheel.

19 minutes ago, chanman said:

Yep you hit the trifecta there, 1. Hard acceleration 2. Near top speed 3. Lower on battery charge. Glad you and the wheel weren't badly damaged.

Actually maybe not all that low battery, voltage sag made it look low but I see now 122V at rest so mostly charged. Just curious if your wheel has 40T or 50E cells?

Tiltback won't always kick in if there's no more power available, and beeps can be delayed, too quiet, or at the same time as the overlean occurs.

I do find it problematic that safety margin was reported to still be above 15%, meaning the controller should have been able to give more PWM, so maybe there's something to 60A being a hard current limit being enforced. 

Almost full battery, 92%, stock KS cells.

Tiltback on S22 is not reliable, it's too weak i.e. hard to feel and it's also speed based.

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53 minutes ago, redfoxdude said:

Oh man, this gives me flashbacks to my overlean on a 16X a few years ago. I'm glad to hear you are alright. 

I really hope they will significantly improve this. If they moved it to PWM threshold and implemented a similar tiltback to Begode's in conjunction with Freestyler's custom FW, that would be pretty ideal. I've tended to quite like Begode's tiltback, it's smooth and not jarring, but can absolutely make it harder to pass a given speed. I recall accidentally having it set to 28mph on my 100V Nikola when I still had it, and it was genuinely difficult to push past. I'd love to see this on more wheels - it would be a major step towards safer EUCs for all of us.

Yeah I think it should be the standard all manufactures should strive for.

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18 hours ago, Rawnei said:

According to this chart, shouldn't 15% safety margin be reached around 40A and raise an alarm?

Sorry for posting this chart with not more detailed comments - it's made with, i assume the from the s22 reported _battery_ curent - which is "wrong". As i wrote battery current equals motor current at overlean (pwm = 100%) below motor current is higher than battery current.

Motor current is proportional to torque, battery current is just some more or less "unrelated value" the lower pwm% get.

Also the lift cut off speed value of 112 is just any guess - no idea which soc your wheel had and how much the lift cut off speed is at all for the s22.

The upper right point, about were your accident happened still reported a safety margin of 16% - so pwm reporting, averaging or whatever is somehow off with the s22 phone combination you have or just another point is missing with lower safety margin were you really overleaned. So the red line should be somewhere steeper and starting from some "real lift cut off speed" which will shift the blue line accordingly.

Battery current is no value to base an alarm which can protect from an overlean. As some fixed speed is not. One can restrict oneself with high safety margins with some combined alarm...

Additionally the overlean limit changes with battery charge state.

Imho changing to soime 18-20% safety margin should be better.

Make such scatter charts of your graph showing you points with 0-5%, 5-10%, 10-15%, 15-20%, ... ranges of safety margin and decide from this what could work?

pwm-color.png.8804371583db60b615cb7856e63b60ac.png

But then again - the pwm ranges are "very intermixed" in the higher burden parts... Maybe they make more sense with more data?

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BTW: here an old graph from https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/7855-anatomy-of-an-overlean/?do=findComment&comment=307699 i made trying to extrapolate the overlean limit from battery current vs speed with the pwm values:

ewGWSOY.png

As one sees the overlean limit from the reported values is more a range than a limit...

 

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Thanks Rawnei and everyone who shared!  I was looking for what a shoulder joint support harness would protect, but it was really great to see what Rawnei's gear protected.  His shoulder pad saved him from road rash but not joint trauma, and the skid plate seems to have been adequate joint protection.

I've had one cut-out, it was a hard acceleration from a dead stop at an intersection so I don't understand why the spec sheets focus so much on speed, I can see everyone here understands it's about rider over-lean which is about system (battery, motor, controller) over-current.  My understanding is that the Battery Management Controller is prioritizing the battery and wiring and motor at the expense of rider safety and I sure wish new battery management / control circuits would fail with a reduced-but-not-zero power output mode.

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