Paul A Posted November 20, 2022 Share Posted November 20, 2022 The top pad does look like it would be better to be removed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
never_home Posted November 20, 2022 Author Share Posted November 20, 2022 2 hours ago, Paul A said: The top pad does look like it would be better to be removed. Thanks Yes, my plan is to remove it completely (it has already nearly fallen off on the RHS) and stick some 10mm foam yoga mat from just above ankle bone height to the top of the side panel, wrapping over the top if possible to replicate the original pad. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mrelwood Posted November 20, 2022 Popular Post Share Posted November 20, 2022 One thing though, don’t cram your foot against the shell. You need a little room to be able to tilt the wheel for (especially low speed) turns. As you advance, your leg will only touch the shell very gently every now and then. Trying to achieve a more supported feeling from the shell prohibits more than it achieves. 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
never_home Posted November 21, 2022 Author Share Posted November 21, 2022 16 hours ago, mrelwood said: One thing though, don’t cram your foot against the shell. You need a little room to be able to tilt the wheel for (especially low speed) turns. As you advance, your leg will only touch the shell very gently every now and then. Trying to achieve a more supported feeling from the shell prohibits more than it achieves. Thank you I was trying to do that in order to be more 'at one' with the shell. I'll try being a little looser. Thanks again D 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mono Posted November 23, 2022 Share Posted November 23, 2022 On 11/19/2022 at 6:46 PM, never_home said: The problem is simply the difficulty of raising my right leg off the floor without causing pain to my left leg and maintaining the wheel upright. I had this problem too. I could not possibly learn without padding my lower legs, because it was too much pain. In the end, I used hard shin pads pointing inwards. Otherwise, try to quickly jump/hop on while holding on to something very sturdy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jkay Posted November 24, 2022 Share Posted November 24, 2022 Good advice on not having my feet too close to the shell, I tried it yesterday and now I can turn! I was foot up tight to the shell and was having a hard time with some of the tight turns I see on YouTube! Most I could manage was a gentle arc or a (what I call ) a flick turn. Learning a lot, having fun! Thanks all! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted February 15, 2023 Share Posted February 15, 2023 i'm terrible at mounting also. so i'm figuring the only way to be good at it, is to be able to ride on one foot. so this morning i built a ballet balance barre on the side of my road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcgldr Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 As an alternative to modding your EUC, you could buy cloth shin guards and turn them inwards to protect your inner legs. Even though I learned to ride using support to mount and launch before doing free mount (30 minutes a day, waited till day 5 after I could ride reasonably well before free mounting), I was getting some bruising (I was 69 years old when I started, part of the issue), and I bought some cloth shin guards which solved the issue. After 2 weeks or so, I no longer needed them. I have a V8F which has pretty soft pads at the top, unlike some other wheels, so you may need to use the shin guards for longer than I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 Yeah, it definitely hurts to be one-legging it initially. But as others say, if you keep putting pressure on the same place regularly, that contact area of your leg will firm up, and sort itself out so it resists that pain over a few weeks, and eventually it will just not hurt to do it. This is another reason why MC boots are a good idea, as they come right up your calves, and cushion that part that gets the most pressure, AND you can add baby bumper strip to either the wheel or in the inside of MC boots for extra cushioning there, so it becomes really very comfortable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 (edited) I really never had this problem, side of leg hurting and such.. (I had foot/muscle cramps first month.) Because while you are mounting it, the side of EUC pressed ~1 second against your upper leg. Same for one leg riding. One day while riding at beach - i wanted to try riding one legged. I simply lifted one leg 90 degree position behind my back and there i was riding one legged. Going ~5-10km/h speed. I also learned free mounting first, before riding.. I literally was balancing in place. (Because i wasn't leaning forwards enough.) For whole 3 days.. Before i said duck this. At 4th day - when i did the superman lean forwards. THAT get me going right then and there. Riding was easy.. I think it was easy for me, because i was already standing in place "balancing" for 3 days lol. Edited February 16, 2023 by Funky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nostris Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 I was surprised that having ridden my V8 for two years and 2000 kms without any mounting issues…..When I got my V12 I started to have some problems initially. I guess it’s because the wheel is talker, and much more too heavy. At the start, it seemed very unstable when mounting..Also, I found it was very, very slow to get going compared to the V8… I had to stand well forward a really get on the toes to get it to accelerate off. I’m getting there now..but it was a bit of a struggle at the start. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 1 minute ago, Nostris said: I was surprised that having ridden my V8 for two years and 2000 kms without any mounting issues…..When I got my V12 I started to have some problems initially. I guess it’s because the wheel is talker, and much more too heavy. At the start, it seemed very unstable when mounting..Also, I found it was very, very slow to get going compared to the V8… I had to stand well forward a really get on the toes to get it to accelerate off. I’m getting there now..but it was a bit of a struggle at the start. yeah, i look at how some riders have the pads and pedals positioned on the s22 and i think my skeletal structure must be different. moving the pedals forward and down was like night and day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nostris Posted March 1, 2023 Share Posted March 1, 2023 22 hours ago, novazeus said: yeah, i look at how some riders have the pads and pedals positioned on the s22 and i think my skeletal structure must be different. moving the pedals forward and down was like night and day. Eventually, I found a solution amongst the formidable a mount of settings and options on the V12.. Having read a lot about the V12 on the forums..many of the resident ‘ Experts’ ( X being the unknown factor…and spurt being a drip under pressure! ) advised setting Off-road Mode and Full hard pedals..it was the only way to go apparently!! It’s great when you are already rolling, but to get going..really it’s not. In frustration! I set Commuter Mode and soft pedals at 25%…..It’s completely transformed now and behaves as I would expect it to and became thoroughly enjoyable. So, folks..beware what you read on forums. There are plenty that know even less than you who are more than happy to pass on second hand information that they have little to no personal experience of👍 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted March 1, 2023 Share Posted March 1, 2023 48 minutes ago, Nostris said: Eventually, I found a solution amongst the formidable a mount of settings and options on the V12.. Having read a lot about the V12 on the forums..many of the resident ‘ Experts’ ( X being the unknown factor…and spurt being a drip under pressure! ) advised setting Off-road Mode and Full hard pedals..it was the only way to go apparently!! It’s great when you are already rolling, but to get going..really it’s not. In frustration! I set Commuter Mode and soft pedals at 25%…..It’s completely transformed now and behaves as I would expect it to and became thoroughly enjoyable. So, folks..beware what you read on forums. There are plenty that know even less than you who are more than happy to pass on second hand information that they have little to no personal experience of👍 for me, and i've tried different pedal settings, and soft pedals freaked me out. it's entirely a personal preference. right now i think my s18 and s22 pedals are dipping when i take my 90 degree curve at speed, but it's probably my overly sensitive mind imagining it. my pedals are set as hard as they can be. i have lowered the psi 5 pounds from the max sidewall pressure of 41 psi. the 9bots i've owned, e+, s1, s2, z10, all had funky pedal softness. the best algorithm for me was the v10f but it was recalled due to fires. wheels are like humans and cows, all different, u just adapt to them. i started a topic, one size doesn't fit everybody. and humans argue about that. kuji weighs about as much as legs, he's gonna ride differently than me.but i'm sure he could teach me about riding, although i have no desire to go down stairs and stuff like that. i don't take unnecessary risks. i approach wheels like tom kite told me about playing golf, he said in golf, monotony is the spice of life. i don't fall and don't plan on it. i also go slow. getting hurt isn't an option for me. my cows are dangerous enough. still have a broken thumb from a 550 pound heifer running over me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jkay Posted March 24, 2023 Share Posted March 24, 2023 Well, now that I have “slightly “ more experience, over 100 miles on my V12HT (and not had an unscheduled departure in 75 miles) I have decided on my preferred settings on my wheel. I think the huge amount of adjustments actually slowed my learning process. With InMotion providing minimal guidance on the multitude of settings I dinked around adjusting my wheel not knowing what to expect or was I receiving what I adjusted. I hope Inmotion has the “product manual “ available soon on their somewhat marginal app. Seems a shame to design a complex device and not tell the consumer all of its secrets of safe use! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcgldr Posted March 24, 2023 Share Posted March 24, 2023 (edited) 2 hours ago, Jkay said: Well, now that I have “slightly “ more experience, over 100 miles on my V12HT (and not had an unscheduled departure in 75 miles) I have decided on my preferred settings on my wheel. I think the huge amount of adjustments actually slowed my learning process. This is why I looked at the how to ride videos. In Wrong Ways videos, and advice I've seen elsewhere, start with hard setting, which is 100% on all 3 settings on V12, despite the description being pedal "softness" depending on app and model. At 100%, there's no difference between commuter | off-road. As Wrong Way mentions start with hard, mess with the settings later. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qW-y5RiecMc&t=195s Edited March 24, 2023 by rcgldr 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted March 25, 2023 Share Posted March 25, 2023 (edited) 13 hours ago, rcgldr said: As Wrong Way mentions start with hard, mess with the settings later. Well, WrongWay has been wrong before. And he doesn’t even use the hard mode himself anymore. This guy recommends starting with 70% Commuting: Edited March 25, 2023 by mrelwood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcgldr Posted March 26, 2023 Share Posted March 26, 2023 17 hours ago, mrelwood said: Well, WrongWay has been wrong before. And he doesn’t even use the hard mode himself anymore. His statement was that beginners start off with hard mode, and then adjust with the settings later (after they've learned to ride). As for the settings once a person has learned to ride, Wrong Way includes a list of recommended settings in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fXjiJ2uRNOg Any InMotion: Hard | King-Song: S18: Medium/Hard | Other King Song: Hard | Begode/GotWay: mten3: hard | MCM5: hard | Nikola: medium/hard | MSX: hard | MSP or RS19 HT: medium/hard | MSP or RS19 HS: medium/hard | EXN: medium/hard | EX: medium/hard | Monster Pro: medium | Veteran Sherman: hard Note his video was made in 2021, before the V13. Dawn Champion, Marty Backe (who does very long rides), and other youtubers use hard mode on the V13, at least if riding on pavement. I suspect this is because they want it to feel similar to Begode EUCs which have a very hard setting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted March 26, 2023 Share Posted March 26, 2023 6 hours ago, rcgldr said: His statement was that beginners start off with hard mode, and then adjust with the settings later (after they've learned to ride). And my statement is that it would be better and easier, as well as proven to be less painful and require less effort to start in medium mode, or 70% Commuter in Inmotions. One can adjust the setting for requiring more effort and be more exhausting once one learns to assess the ride mode differences. 6 hours ago, rcgldr said: Note his video was made in 2021 My video is newer, made in 2023. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted March 26, 2023 Share Posted March 26, 2023 i appreciate any help on freemounting. that's my next goal. i want to be able to step on and look like i know what i'm doing. i just hate practicing freemounting. i know i have to, but it's not as fun as just riding. the feature of the v13 with it's wide flat tire probably would have made it easier to freemount, so naturally i switched to the michelin pilot street 2, which really makes the wheel tippy. i am getting better at grabbing the wheel while still vertical if my stepping off gets wonky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Cerbera Posted March 26, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted March 26, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, novazeus said: i appreciate any help on freemounting. that's my next goal. I practiced this indoors and stationary for a solid week, which helped enormously. In my kitchen I have a layout where I have counter-tops either side of me to grab if it all goes wrong... 1. First you gotta find your 'stable resting stance'; that is trailing foot on ground, leading foot on pedal, but with weight and position shifted so that the wheel doesn't want to fall over, even with not much pressure from pedal foot, so almost vertical. Your other foot should be 'planted but rotatable', and you should not feel your body in tension as you hold that resting position. You probably will feel tension initially, but adjust pose and ground foot position until you don't. You can test this by doing something on your phone, or twisting your upper body to look around while you try and hold your lower half and the wheel stable. 2. Now you need to roll that wheel back and forwards by shifting the weight in your leading pedal foot to the front and back of it, all the while keeping it vertical, and under your centreline, so you don't let it lean. After that, allow it to lean slightly, but now guide it in slow quarter circles forwards and back. Do those steps every day until it feels like second nature, and the easiest thing in the world. Full circles without losing stability are the pinnacle of that exercise. 3. Same position / starting point, but now you will put gradually more and more (even, unweighted back or forwards) pressure on the pedal foot, which you facilitate by doing tiptoe with the other one. At the same time you will ease your bodyweight towards the pedal foot so that the upper part of the case is in firm contact with your calf, allowing you to feel what the machine is doing a lot more. This is now your 'control leg' to prevent over-lean. As you lean, your ground-based foot will, at some point, leave the ground and you will feel the balance point of the machine briefly before either going over it, or falling back to your foot on the ground. This is what you are aiming to get to with every free-mount, so do little push-ups with your ground foot incrementally, letting it fall back every time until you can 'kick to the balance point', and remain there briefly. Repeat that drill over and over until you can hit and hold the balance point for about 2 seconds without holding any supporting surfaces, all whilst stationary. When you can do that, then is the time to move outside... 4. Outside, we need a level bit of ground and a supporting wall on one side this time (to catch if you over-balance), and we are aiming to repeat step 3, but this time, as soon as we feel the balance point has been hit we can adjust our weight forwards, and begin to roll. The little kick off with the ground foot you used to do stationary indoors can now have a bit of forward power to it as well, to start the wheel rolling. 5. Last stage of this is learning to do it uphill (downhill is easy) smoothing out the transitions so that you lean into the pedal, push off with the ground foot, find the centreline, move your bodyweight over it, and start moving, all in one fluid, efficient move, with no wasted energy, which takes a little time to perfect. But just keep going, and eventually you won't give it a second thought. If you want to be ultra capable, repeat the above but with the other foot as the leading foot. But I don't think is at all necessary. There is no situation I can ever imagine facing where I don't have the choice about which foot I start from, so only 1 of them needs to be great at it IMO ! But mounting technique is like playing guitar. If you learn it right-handed, you're back to square one when someone hands you a left-handed guitar ! Edited March 26, 2023 by Cerbera 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Posted March 26, 2023 Share Posted March 26, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, novazeus said: i appreciate any help on freemounting. that's my next goal. i want to be able to step on and look like i know what i'm doing. i just hate practicing freemounting. i know i have to, but it's not as fun as just riding. the feature of the v13 with it's wide flat tire probably would have made it easier to freemount, so naturally i switched to the michelin pilot street 2, which really makes the wheel tippy. i am getting better at grabbing the wheel while still vertical if my stepping off gets wonky. Fist thing i did was learned to free mount... I didn't even try riding, because if my mind - i thought i need to be available to mount and dismount fist, before attempting to ride. Didn't use any support/fences - nothing. Simply step on and go. As soon as you place your feet from ground on pedal - lean forwards fast - so wheel start to go. Standing in place you will lose balance pretty fast. The more you lean forwards - the better. Try pushing off the ground with one leg so wheel start to move forwards and while it's moving (riding one legged) you place your feet on pedal. Best thing one can learn is riding one legged. As you are available to start/stop much better. As mention you can kick off the ground like skateboard. And at stops you can already be lifting the feet of the pedal as you stop and place the feet on ground. Also as you mount you need to press against wheel side at somewhat angle. I don't even think about how i mount it anymore... I simply hoop on in 1 second ang go. I don't even look at euc anymore.. Wheel is already going forwards as i position the feet that left the ground on pedal. My story how i started to ride: For 3 days i could not ride even one meter. As soon as i lifted the foot from ground and put on pedal - i lost balance. (My biggest mistake was not leaning forwards enough. I literally was balancing 1-3 second in place and then tipped over as i lost balance.) For 3 days i did that for 20 mins each day. Without even going forwards once. 4th day i said DUCK IT and did superman lean forwards. That got me going, i did 1-10-15km/h speed pretty fast and i was riding. About 30 mins later i was going left/right and in circles. 2 days later i was already riding true city/people. Sure i still dropped my wheel time to time. As i put my feet on the ground to fast and wheel went forwards without me. Or i didn't catch it in time. But 2 weeks later i already was available to stop and control and ride one legged without much of a issue. Riding gave me ZERO issues. Edited March 26, 2023 by Funky 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcgldr Posted March 26, 2023 Share Posted March 26, 2023 16 hours ago, rcgldr said: His statement was that beginners start off with hard mode, and then adjust with the settings later (after they've learned to ride). 9 hours ago, mrelwood said: And my statement is that it would be better and easier, as well as proven to be less painful and require less effort to start in medium mode, or 70% Commuter in Inmotions. One can adjust the setting for requiring more effort and be more exhausting once one learns to assess the ride mode differences. A beginner is not going to be accelerating or braking hard, not much lean or torque exerted onto the EUC, and the rides will be relatively short. Since a typical beginner uses small movements, using a hard mode will result in the EUC responding more quickly to those small movements. There's also more sense of lean angle based on ankle bend with a hard pedal setting, which helps for small lean angles. Based on my own experience and what I've seen or read, this initial learning curve is about 1 to 3 hours for most beginners. For some beginners, the most exhaustive aspect would be trying to free mount, hopping and stepping on, before learning to ride, due to all the bailing and remounting involved when first learning, which is why Kuji Rolls, Wrong Way, and others recommend learning to ride before learning to free mount. Once a rider has basic riding skills, then they can try adjusting the pedal settings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcgldr Posted March 27, 2023 Share Posted March 27, 2023 (edited) On 3/26/2023 at 12:31 AM, mrelwood said: less painful and require less effort to start in medium mode, or 70% Commuter in Inmotions. Soft pedal settings can reduce overlean margin at high accelerations or high speeds on some EUCs. The V13 lowers maximum speed if the pedal settings are softer. Being unfamiliar with Inmotion EUCs, Marty saw the setting "pedal softness", and thought that 0% meant zero softness and would be hard mode. At 0%, the V13 reduces maximum speed to 37 mph. Once he got the settings straightened out, with "pedal softness" at 100%, the maximum speed changed to its normal maximum of 56 mph - 90 kph, but Inmotion speeds are about 7% high, and the GPS maximum speed is around 52 mph - 84 kph: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEgOhF9t8f4&t=204s Marty had Dawn Champion do the maximum speed runs, 52 mph GPS - 84 kph: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqbevoSPKFQ Edited March 27, 2023 by rcgldr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted March 27, 2023 Share Posted March 27, 2023 1 hour ago, rcgldr said: The V13 lowers maximum speed if the pedal settings are softer. Only if the pedal sensitivity is below 50%. My recommended starting point is 70%, or Medium mode on others than Inmotion. Besides, new riders have no business going past 37 mph anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.