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eWheels S22


gon2fast

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20 hours ago, gon2fast said:

It is on par with the OG Sherman once you are able to put some weight on it.

That's how I felt when I tested out the Demo. To me it felt like a Sherman with suspension.

Been checking the S22 threads as mine arrives this Thursday. Being that this one is for the S22s from Ewheels, I'll report here with my findings. Fingers crossed guys. ūü§ě

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2 hours ago, 5Cauac said:

Fingers crossed guys. ūü§ě

So far so good with the motor. No clunks, skips or abnormalities (knock on wood). I took off the stock pads and now I can turn and stop the wheel so that is a big improvement. I have also made a point to use the wheel on the the dustiest trails around my house and no loss of function with the suspension after 100 miles. Next milestone will be installing a proper street tire. 

Edited by gon2fast
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Maybe those better versed with cell management can give some feedback. I have been reporting the lack of the Balancing/Equilibrium phase during charging to my reseller, but the feedback that I am getting is that my packs are within the balanced zone, but it does not seem that way to me. Not saying that I am correct, but more eyes on this besides myself and my reseller would be helpful.

These are the BMS stats from a charge to 100% earlier this morning - 

Pack 1

3-DC1-A516-CDB4-4729-BC5-D-0424887-F9-FF  

F050702-B-66-AD-4532-B9-DC-F387-D5-D3-FF

Pack 2

09-B3742-E-BD1-A-429-A-BEDE-FB79-E1-C4-B

D7940007-7-D9-A-4659-AC60-C54-D4-C078884

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So if you ignore the fact that they're not 4.200V, and if you interpret "balanced" to mean that all of the cells are within a certain number of millivolts of each other, then you have Pack 1 with a max-to-min delta of 17 millivolts, and Pack 2 is 19 millivolts.

Which isn't 'bad' to my eyes... they're all pretty much the same. If the delta were 100 millivolts, I'd be asking questions but must defer to true battery experts on how much is too much.

Sure, it would be more comforting if they were 4.200, but the last little bit of voltage is surface charge and that gets eaten up almost immediately. There's a pretty rapid drop in voltage shortly after you start using the pack.

Again, someone with more "pack" expertise than I have should weigh in... but I look at your numbers and see that no cells are overcharged and all the cells are pretty close to each other. You may be down a bit on total capacity (less than 1%?), but that would be difficult to extrapolate into range.

I'm not as concerned that cells aren't shown in blue as I am seeing that none of them are seriously out of whack.

Edited by Tawpie
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39 minutes ago, Tawpie said:

I'm not as concerned that cells aren't shown in blue as I am seeing that none of them are seriously out of whack.

Interesting, I wonder if the BMS will only engage the balancing/equilibrium phase if a cell is too far out range? I would very much like to see all phases of charging in action so I know what and when to expect it. I guess I need a new motor as well LOL.

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14 minutes ago, gon2fast said:

I wonder if the BMS will only engage the balancing/equilibrium phase if a cell is too far out range?

Here again, we the consumer, know precious little about this BMS other than it's "smart".

The BMSs most widely in use on wheels are "top balancing", meaning they bleed charge from cells that charged more quickly than the others and reached the 4.2V max early. Bleeding continues until all the other cells catch up. If none of the cells lag, there would be little or no top balancing because they all finish charging to full at the same time. Depending on what value the BMS is programmed to declare "full voltage, stop charging", you may never see any cell get bled until one of the other cells is weakened and is slower to reach 'full' than the rest.

A brand new "good" pack with well matched cells shouldn't need top balancing. Top balancing is a crude but effective way to accommodate cells that age or weaken at different rates than the other cells in the pack.

Edited by Tawpie
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1 hour ago, Tawpie said:

A brand new "good" pack with well matched cells shouldn't need top balancing. Top balancing is a crude but effective way to accommodate cells that age or weaken at different rates than the other cells in the pack.

My theory on balancing is/was way off. I am going to keep monitoring and make sure nothing gets too out spec.

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On 9/8/2022 at 12:02 AM, gon2fast said:

The battery box edges hurt like when you first ride a M -Super. Really does not matter what you put over the edge as you have to squeeze the wheel while riding

If you have a 3D printer, or a friend with a 3D printer: King Song S22 Calf Saver by natewaddoups - Thingiverse

But the more I rode my S22 the less I squeezed it, and that helps too. 

There are times when squeezing is useful though (or just leaning on it with one leg), so the "calf saver" bits are still nice to have. 

The upper pads help too, but the upper pads add more width than support, so I'm not a fan.

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49 minutes ago, NSFW said:

But the more I rode my S22 the less I squeezed it, and that helps too.

I think that the stock pads were the culprit. I was unable to shift my legs/body around the wheel so I was squeezing to force turns, stop and accelerate. Since removing the pads the squeezing has gone away, but I am still feeling a tad bit of discomfort from the edge, but I feel my legs used to it.

A good training tool for this wheel is a small box. I spent some time riding around holding a small box that blocked the view of my feet. For whatever reason not looking at my feet allowed me to find what I needed to do too properly maneuver the wheel without having to force it. That drill has really loosened up my legs and hips while riding the S22.

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Some Thoughts After a Week-

It is a big wheel - Both height and weight. Very similar to the Sherman, but a bit harder to handle at a stand still and mounting with the higher center of gravity.

Motor is very nice (even though it is most likely going to self destruct) - this is the smoothest motor I have ever experienced. Power delivery is buttery and though it may not be quick off of the line, it very much delivers on slow speed torque (with ease). I am a rock crawler, slow and precise is my preference so this works out perfectly.

Crash - I got taken out by teenager on a long board earlier today. I was heading towards a pedestrian/bike bridge and ran into a ding dong who decided to let go of his long board on a somewhat steep transition. At first the board was heading parallel with the opposing wall so I turned hard left to the opposite wall and tried to mildly accelerate past what was happening on the other side of the path. NOPE, that chit ended up underneath my wheel of course. Not wanting to break the kids board by pushing down and powering off I tried to dismount and got blasted on the back side on my right ankle/leg as the board shot out. Wheel down for the first time. F it, now it is out of the way. MB board is pushed up on one corner, not even noticeable so I am very happy with the build quality. 

Motor Skips? - A few times riding today I thought that I felt small skips when applying moderate pedal pressure. Hard to say if it was the motor or stickiness/latency in the suspension. No clunk or audible noise so I can't put a lot of worry around it. If the motor blows and I go flying that is my choice. Until then I am having scaled back fun so I can hopefully walk away from the impending disaster LOL.

Pedal Dipping - None since I recalibrated a third time

Seated Riding - Meh, the seat limits the ability to brake with the mush in the rear. If you are a larger rider then your upper torso can be effective with assisting with braking, but not something I would do for fun with the current setup.

Step Above - I am riding trails and terrains on my S22 that none of my other wheels can't touch. Once the motor issue is resolved and I can climb on the S22 my MSP may be heading to a new home.

 

 

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3 hours ago, 5Cauac said:

Agreed, I wont be riding this wheel seated.

Once I took the pads off ridng while seated was much more manageable. Feels more comfortable than the stock Sherman seat, but you have to use your torso to brake since there is no support for the rear of the seat. Fine for bike paths, but I would not ride seated around cars in its current state (hard to stop LOL).

image.jpg

Found this spray in my box of V11 crap. Now I have to figure out how to properly apply it without having to take apart the wheel...

image.jpg

Edited by gon2fast
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2 hours ago, gon2fast said:

Found this spray in my box of V11 crap. Now I have to figure out how to properly apply it without having to take apart the wheel...

I use the same stuff on my S18. Haven't applied any in months and still no squeaks. It will be pretty difficult without the red straw to reach the rear sliders.

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I did not think that the rear sliders were accessible with the motor attached. Maybe I should take the seat off and actually look (DOH). I have been using long cotton swabs (Q-Tips) to clean all of the visible debris from the front sliders. I then spray a clean swab with the lubricant and manually coat the inner slide surfaces. Once I get the motivation to drop the motor and learn the process* I will most likely do a full service every week or two. 

 

*I have watched both KS breakdowns, but they do a bunch of extra stuff. I just need to know the quickest way to drop the motor... from an instructor with shorter finger nails LOL (I kid, but come from a military background so short nails were part of the package)

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