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ISO KS 18XL motherboard capacitors.


Mattman

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I have a working 18xl motherboard that needs new capacitors(smashed in a wreck). The 3 large ones over the fan. If you have a dead motherboard and the capacitors are good, I would like to purchase them please. I'm in the USA.

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You might check Digikey or Mouser (and there's a third but their name escapes me). They typically stock these things and they're pretty inexpensive (around $5). If you send post a photo of the part you're needing to replace so its value µF and voltage rating are visible I can point you to some options.

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Thank you, I had a look for the actual model but nobody sells HKLCON capacitors that I can find.  I am very concerned that I could easily get the wrong one and cause a cutout. There are so many and thr quality? I'm unsure about replacing with anything but the factory capacitors and finding a dead 18xl motherboard with good capacitors seems the easiest and cheapest route.  I am rebuilding an 18xl that was run over by a car. The motherboard works fine but one of the capacitors is badly damaged, I'm quite sure it is not up to the challenge of everyday use.

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I'll poke around... generally the caps sold by Digikey etc. are as good or better than the ones we find the OEM put in our wheels. I'm a bit tied up but will do the search hopefully later today. More likely tomorrow though. (big baseball game tonight, just got home from trail riding and badly need a nap)

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Without looking at the data sheet for the HKLCON, this is suitable. The two things I would want to check are the ripple current and ESR ratings of the HKLON to make sure the replacement part is rated for at least as much or more ripple current, and the ESR is equal to or less than the HKLON.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cornell-dubilier-illinois-capacitor/108CKE100M/5410851

Something to note about electrolytic capacitors is that they have a rated operating life. When you run them 'near' to their max limits, the operating life should be respected. I would plan on replacing all of the big caps as long as you're in there!

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4 hours ago, Mattman said:

Thank you, I had a look for the actual model but nobody sells HKLCON capacitors that I can find.  I am very concerned that I could easily get the wrong one and cause a cutout. There are so many and thr quality? I'm unsure about replacing with anything but the factory capacitors and finding a dead 18xl motherboard with good capacitors seems the easiest and cheapest route.  I am rebuilding an 18xl that was run over by a car. The motherboard works fine but one of the capacitors is badly damaged, I'm quite sure it is not up to the challenge of everyday use.

Just a heads up …Not sure if your wheel has safety fuses to the batteries but I just blew two capacitors and it causes the two safety fuses to blow that protect the battery packs ..so I had to pop in 2 new 30 amp fuses cuz after I replaced the motherboard it wouldn’t power up  .I’m also gunna look into replacing the capacitors on the old board aswell to see if the board can be fixed ..it was under warranty so they already sent me a new board and wheel is working great but it would be nice to fix the other so I have a spare laying around .

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2 hours ago, Tawpie said:

Without looking at the data sheet for the HKLCON, this is suitable. The two things I would want to check are the ripple current and ESR ratings of the HKLON to make sure the replacement part is rated for at least as much or more ripple current, and the ESR is equal to or less than the HKLON.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cornell-dubilier-illinois-capacitor/108CKE100M/5410851

Something to note about electrolytic capacitors is that they have a rated operating life. When you run them 'near' to their max limits, the operating life should be respected. I would plan on replacing all of the big caps as long as you're in there!

Thank you towpie, I have been told by another electronics wizard the same thing.  I'm now more convinced but I'm still unsure how to find the data sheet detail on the stock capacitors.  If I can find a suitable capacitor, I will make sure to replace all three.

 

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1 hour ago, Dosingpsychedelics said:

Just a heads up …Not sure if your wheel has safety fuses to the batteries but I just blew two capacitors and it causes the two safety fuses to blow that protect the battery packs ..so I had to pop in 2 new 30 amp fuses cuz after I replaced the motherboard it wouldn’t power up  .I’m also gunna look into replacing the capacitors on the old board aswell to see if the board can be fixed ..it was under warranty so they already sent me a new board and wheel is working great but it would be nice to fix the other so I have a spare laying around .

I've heard that when a capacitor dies it can be a failing mosfet that triggers it, I wouldn't trust that motherboard but then again im about to try to save this smashed motherboard. 😅 

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Right you are... getting squished by a car is a different issue than a 'failure'.

When you do repair it, be careful for a while. Getting run over by a car can cause problems that aren't visible. If this was a stereo it's one thing, but you are relying on every single component on the board and inside the board (the printed 'wires' and their interconnects) to be functioning as designed or it won't keep the helmet side up and the rubber side down.

Now that I think about it, how much is a new board? Couple of hundred?

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Ya, I was almost 100% sure I should get a new board.....got a new motor, why not the board too. The only reason was because the only damage around and to the board looked like only the caps were damaged. I feel the same about unseen damage.... just the impact alone was probably g force on the micro parts. Smashed the fan too but I bent it back and it works well now. The board seems to work even with the bent/smashed caps.

I'm probably better off with a new board.....250. I've got 550 into this wheel, just trying to make her go again without spending more then a good unabashed used wheel..... it's not an easy thing to do.

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24 minutes ago, Mattman said:

Ya, I was almost 100% sure I should get a new board.....got a new motor, why not the board too. The only reason was because the only damage around and to the board looked like only the caps were damaged. I feel the same about unseen damage.... just the impact alone was probably g force on the micro parts. Smashed the fan too but I bent it back and it works well now. The board seems to work even with the bent/smashed caps.

I'm probably better off with a new board.....250. I've got 550 into this wheel, just trying to make her go again without spending more then a good unabashed used wheel..... it's not an easy thing to do.

And down the road while riding the wheel dies, you crash and break a neck and get paralyzed for the rest of your miserable life. -Instead of buying new board.

That was worst scenario. Or you just fall and do a barrel roll.. Not breaking anything.

Is the 250$ worth the gamble?

Edited by Funky
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Ok, I found Gotway was using nichicon 1000uf 100v low EMS in there 84v wheels for many years. I'm feeling very confident I can use these to replace the off brand caps in my motherboard.  

Thank you everyone for helping!🙂

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