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Sherman-S 3600wh: 100V, 20", suspension, 97lb


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Another video to tickle our fancy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bqlh1BEBslw

He seems to be really pleased with the wheel and had no complaints. It's also good to see that he's really putting the wheel to work and has had no issues with the suspension, frame getting loose, or dust ingress. I'm well chuffed.

Edited by MrMonoWheel
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1 hour ago, MrMonoWheel said:

He seems to be really pleased with the wheel and had no complaints. It's also good to see that he's really putting the wheel to work and has had no issues with the suspension, frame getting loose, or dust ingress.

Very positive review.

However, he only got up to about 43 mph, and when asked about stability, he didn't sound that upbeat about it.

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16 minutes ago, techyiam said:

Very positive review.

However, he only got up to about 43 mph, and when asked about stability, he didn't sound that upbeat about it.

Yeah that's true, but then you have other reviewers saying it's super stable and comfortable through turns and at speed. Either way I'm sure it's something that will be adapted to.

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34 minutes ago, MrMonoWheel said:

Yeah that's true, but then you have other reviewers saying it's super stable and comfortable through turns and at speed. Either way I'm sure it's something that will be adapted to.

Sure. Reviews don't always agree. And sometimes it could be rider dependent. And, tire or some other things can change the behavior too. 

Ideally, it would be to ride both wheels for a few months and then decide. But unfortunately, that's not going to happen for most of us.

 

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31 minutes ago, techyiam said:

Sure. Reviews don't always agree. And sometimes it could be rider dependent. And, tire or some other things can change the behavior too. 

Ideally, it would be to ride both wheels for a few months and then decide. But unfortunately, that's not going to happen for most of us.

 

My hunch based off the videos and reviews I've seen so far is that it will feel a bit top heavy and less wieldy than the previous Shermans. However, I agree with the assessment that it's just another thing you'll become accustomed to. I don't think the weight, the top heaviness, etc., will be anywhere near a deal-breaker. Remember, Eevee's said in their review that the wheel was the quickest ever they became accustomed to, so there was very little getting used to. Any complaints about top heaviness or weight i think won't matter much.

People were saying that the Sherman Max wasn't very maneuverable when it first came out but it feels very maneuverable for me in a city like NYC, even with the knobby tire on it. I think the SS will become the same for me.

Edited by BKW
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10 hours ago, techyiam said:

Me too.

I am finding out that in one of the battery packs, although the fuse box has a gasket for the cover, they neglected to seal the holes that the cables pass through. In automotive, there would be slot made in the box for a cable to come through, but there would be a matching grommet molded on the cable jacket. On the Abrams, and like many other electric wheels, they just make a hole for the cable to pass through, and that's that. Water ingress be damned. However, for the Abrams, it is supposedly be IP rated, so there should at least be some sealant for the holes. Well, they missed it for one of two battery packs.  

I would like to see a teardown to see whether Leapkim has improved their QC.

Silicone sealant will (literally) cure this!

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8 hours ago, MrMonoWheel said:

and had no complaints.

He does say that it seems a little "unstable at higher speeds" but may be corrected with a suspension adjustment or lowering the pedals. He also doesn't like the trolley handle. But overall he does seem pleased with it.

I find it strange that the suspension has a compression adjustment on one side and a rebound adjustment on the other side. Is this wheel using one shock for compression and one for rebound?

Still the wheel does look great riding and the suspension looks smooth.

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2 hours ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

 

I find it strange that the suspension has a compression adjustment on one side and a rebound adjustment on the other side. Is this wheel using one shock for compression and one for rebound?

 

Yep this is how mtb and motorcycle forks generally work as well, however the difference is they are all connected across the top by at least one solid metal member that clamps to each. The Sherman S doesn't have this, instead it relies on the battery cases and motherboard housing to form that connection. Time will tell if it causes fatigue on the chassis.

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10 minutes ago, Paul A said:

20221218_134349.thumb.jpg.0153f6c19b0178

https://www.hillspet.com/cat-care/behavior-appearance/managing-clingy-cats

July 19, 2021

Managing Clingy Cats: Do I Have a Velcro Kitty?

Do you have a Velcro cat?

If your cat sticks to you like Velcro, you've probably got a clingy cat on your hands......

This just gave me the biggest smile 😊😁

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9 hours ago, Freeforester said:

Silicone sealant will (literally) cure this!

For sure, it is a easy fix for that part anyway. But that wasn't the point.

On my Inmotion V12, other than the pedal bolts, the driver board swap, early firmware and an error message, it has been charge-and-play. And I ride in the rain a lot.

On the other hand, on the Abrams, right off the bat, the mounting holes in the battery castings don't match up to the mounting points on the chassis. And the mounting screws are threaded into aluminum threaded holes. It took me a bit to figure out how to mount back the battery cases without cross threading and frustration.

Then there the matter of battery cable and motor wire connections not sufficiently tightened, and will loosen on it's own over time. Also, there is the luck of the draw neglected sealing of specific holes and gaps.. Aside from the battery packs, the taillight housing also needs to be sealed by owners after purchased.

Moreover, there is water ingress in the bearings and motor reported. Those need to be sealed. But the axle bolts are glued on. So I don't feel comfortable applying a couple hundred pounds of torque to loosen those not so big bolts.

Furthermore, there is the alloy cross members at the bottom of the wheel that have been confirmed by EEVEES that the will fail due to fatigue over time.

And no one really know which batches of motors don't contribute to cutouts, plus earlier firmware versions weren't great either.

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25 minutes ago, techyiam said:

For sure, it is a easy fix for that part anyway. But that wasn't the point.

On my Inmotion V12, other than the pedal bolts, the driver board swap, early firmware and an error message, it has been charge-and-play. And I ride in the rain a lot.

On the other hand, on the Abrams, right off the bat, the mounting holes in the battery castings don't match up to the mounting points on the chassis. And the mounting screws are threaded into aluminum threaded holes. It took me a bit to figure out how to mount back the battery cases without cross threading and frustration.

Then there the matter of battery cable and motor wire connections not sufficiently tightened, and will loosen on it's own over time. Also, there is the luck of the draw neglected sealing of specific holes and gaps.. Aside from the battery packs, the taillight housing also needs to be sealed by owners after purchased.

Moreover, there is water ingress in the bearings and motor reported. Those need to be sealed. But the axle bolts are glued on. So I don't feel comfortable applying a couple hundred pounds of torque to loosen those not so big bolts.

Furthermore, there is the alloy cross members at the bottom of the wheel that have been confirmed by EEVEES that the will fail due to fatigue over time.

And no one really know which batches of motors don't contribute to cutouts, plus earlier firmware versions weren't great either.

This is all about the Abrams though, correct? I'm pretty sure most people including leaperkim want to forget that mess ever happened and do it right this time, similar to inmotion with the v13 after the issues with the v12. But all these points are why I disassemble, fix, and reassemble any wheel I buy. Even on the best wheels there are things that need attention. 

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18 hours ago, MrMonoWheel said:

Yep that's why I plan on fully tearing my new wheel down before I even ride it. I'm going to find everything that needs sealing and add some good silicone and grommets, threadlock all the screws and bolts, then properly torque everything. I also think I will fill all the voids in the battery cases with expanding foam or something similar, definitely couldn't hurt.

just wondering about the foam. Do the batteries get warm at all? Foam is an excellent insulator; it will hold in any heat. It's also very flammable. 

An alternative could be to cushion the batteries in small areas with pieces of high density foam rubber, so that the majority of the surface area is still exposed to circulating air. If there is any heat and it can escape through the top of the wheel somewhere, that alone will cause the air to circulate (cold air will be dragged through the bottom as the warm air escapes).

Edited by Uras
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2 hours ago, MrMonoWheel said:

Received the Sherman S power pads, definitely not bad for 80 bucks shipped. Came with those fancy blue decals too. Next thing to arrive should be the seat.

20221218_134349.thumb.jpg.0153f6c19b0178d82d9ccc6e7c07af02.jpg

Interested to find out how those work out! (and if you like them, a link!!!)

 

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Those Sherman pads are a great value for the price. I ended up buying a set of Grizzla flow pads. I'm keeping them minty fresh until my S arrives. I'm going with a black and yellow theme

 

20221201_213617.thumb.jpg.85eeca4651c5ead54a63d9adf6babeed.jpg

Edited by Clem604
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6 hours ago, Uras said:

just wondering about the foam. Do the batteries get warm at all? Foam is an excellent insulator; it will hold in any heat. It's also very flammable. 

An alternative could be to cushion the batteries in small areas with pieces of high density foam rubber, so that the majority of the surface area is still exposed to circulating air. If there is any heat and it can escape through the top of the wheel somewhere, that alone will cause the air to circulate (cold air will be dragged through the bottom as the warm air escapes).

Seeing that companies regularly fill their battery cases with potting material (usually some sort of rubber foam) I do not think there will be any issue. Honestly if anything in there is hot enough to ignite polyurethane foam I have bigger problems on my hands. When I took apart the battery pack from a Ninebot Max scooter it was filled with this really nice rubbery-silicone-ish foam that they obviously fill it with and then it expanded and cured. If I could find something like this I would prefer to use that, but currently gap and crack filler is the best I got.

 

6 hours ago, Tawpie said:

Interested to find out how those work out! (and if you like them, a link!!!)

 

Seems the price went back up to the standard $100, perhaps it was a black friday thing. However its worth trying to negotiate with the seller, they always have wiggle room.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804702054862.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.420b1802aA1dwk&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

 

Also this is the seat I have coming, the smallest size is the one I bought

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804159284277.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.152a1802E6xlxj&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

image.thumb.png.2ec455f7043e3c289a3d703eb0cbbab3.png

 

 

1 hour ago, Clem604 said:

Those Sherman pads are a great value for the price. I ended up buying a set of Grizzla flow pads. I'm keeping them minty fresh until my S arrives. I'm going with a black and yellow theme

 

20221201_213617.thumb.jpg.85eeca4651c5ead54a63d9adf6babeed.jpg

 

Man I would love to get a nice set of Grizzla pads but they so damn expensive. If I had a 3D printer id just print them but for now these foam ones should be okay I hope.

Edited by MrMonoWheel
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1 hour ago, MrMonoWheel said:

Man I would love to get a nice set of Grizzla pads but they so damn expensive. If I had a 3D printer id just print them but for now these foam ones should be okay I hope.

You're right, they were very expensive. Are they worth it, we shall see. Most of the Chinese riders riding the Sherman S I see ride with those pads you have so I'm thinking they will be more than fine. I like that it comes with stickers to increase visibility.

Edited by Clem604
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1 hour ago, Jon Wall said:

Grizzla pads are hard to beat.

I hope that I end up agreeing with that.  It wasn't cheap for my Flow Compact & Flow Large pads that I ordered for my V12HT & Sherman-S.  I'm going to cover the sides of the EUCs with good Velcro and try to get the positioning of the pads bang-on.  I'm also hoping that I really like the Nylonove pedals that I bought for my V12HT because they definitely weren't cheap either, if I love them then I'll get some for the Sherman-S too.  I saw some comment that the Sherman-S pedals were expected to be available from Nylonove around mid-January.

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3 hours ago, Jon Wall said:

Correct. January is what I wad told for the Nylonove Sherman-S pedals. I have them on my Sherman Max and they are fantastic  on my feet

I have yet to buy pedals for an EUC, but seeing the complaints about the stock pedals this might be the time to get some good ones. I'd prefer CNC aluminum over nylon though 

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22 minutes ago, MrMonoWheel said:

I have yet to buy pedals for an EUC, but seeing the complaints about the stock pedals this might be the time to get some good ones. I'd prefer CNC aluminum over nylon though 

Personal preference is the name of the game in EUC accessories! I wanted Hextechs for my wheels, but they're totally unobtanium these days, so I went with NyloNoves. They're really nice... and light and so far totally durable. Thusfar I haven't heard any issues with them failing, but knock on wood. The only failures I've read about have been cast pedals, and have seen pictures of both stock and honeycomb failures.

Someone bent a Beidou-bigdipper set (BB makes the wolverine/iron man/MCU rebranded pedals you get from e-Rides etc.), but I think they must have crashed into a real solid object. I doubt plastic would have fared any better, but who know!

Edited by Tawpie
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23 hours ago, Uras said:

just wondering about the foam. Do the batteries get warm at all? Foam is an excellent insulator; it will hold in any heat. It's also very flammable. 

An alternative could be to cushion the batteries in small areas with pieces of high density foam rubber, so that the majority of the surface area is still exposed to circulating air. If there is any heat and it can escape through the top of the wheel somewhere, that alone will cause the air to circulate (cold air will be dragged through the bottom as the warm air escapes).

I'd think it would be essential to insulate the batteries from a black metal case, both from the vibration and the heat transfer from the case to the batteries. In summer in low latitudes you can't touch black metal as it gets so hot. I noticed on a Munroe Tesla model Y battery teardown that later models were potted with a pink foam. Given that catastrophic battery fires are from one dud battery in thermal runaway transferring it's heat to the adjacent cell(s) thereby starting a chain reaction. Foam insulation probably slows it enough that you have time to get out.

The neoprene type foam on the inside of the case is probably more for shock and vibration protection.

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