Sherman-S 3600wh: 100V, 20", suspension, 97lb

[Tasku]

My MSP came with street tyre. All I know that it will be slick on 10k mark. The street tyres just dont have as much pattern so there is that.

The need to not change tyres all the time is heaven send to someone like me. I would prefer "lazy" and low maintenance. But I always tend to remind people that maintenance is important to our devices. Also for new rider I did "love" the street tyre. 

As my hobby goes on, it is however forest roads that I ride and there be gravel or roads can be somewhat "sandy". Street tyre will not be pleasure in those conditions, especially for new rider. "Good" or may I say advanced riding technique takes fairly long time to develop. And if you are not in conditions where it "slips" you may not develop in that manner.

I can say after riding on snow with friction tyre, I was changed man. The forest roads are just good fun now, but not a challenge like winter on friction tyre.

One last perk for knobby is that it could be better if you want to put studs to it, where as the street tyres, not so much. Not all wheels can take winter conditions, we usually do "lil extra" to make em fare better in negative degrees.

---

one last thought: 
The kenda knobby has better pattern than most knobbys, that have more "characteristic" to em. As knobbys tend to have some interesting  behaviour, this knobby has pretty good surface area, giving predictable movement to it. Even if you transit from street tyre to it. With all that said, I think it is no brainer that a vendor would only sell the device with said knobby, after all people can change the tyre.. But you would have that knobby always to fallback to!

 

Edited November 19, 2022 by Tasku

[Rawnei]

Tip for people liking the Kenda 262, if you can get hold of the S22 stock tire (Jiluer J-820 2.75-14 (41-j 6pr)) it's like an upgraded K262, it has the same behavior but even less sharply falling to the sides, more quiet, better in mud.

[Jon Wall]

I don't have much use for street  tires in my area.

I have the 244 on my Sherman Max. The only advantage I see is turning and maybe light sidehill. The knobs overlap each other making a smother transition rolling left to right. On light off camber the tire is less likely to force a climb. It is a tough tire and almost 1 pound heavier 

 

The stock knobby tire is not bad and maybe has a small grip advantage on some surfaces. Looking back I don't think it's an upgrade, more like a sidestep .

The stock knobby on the Sherman-S is what I will run.  Maybe an upgrade would be the TR1 Trials tire that I ran in the S18 days and now on my V3 Sherman powered contraption wheel 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Clem604]

I will definitely give the Kenda knobbys a chance when my Sherman S comes but I suspect I will be swapping it out fairly soon for the Continental Conti-Scoot or the Michelin Pilot Street, both of which I have sitting in the garage currently. Maybe the Kenda knobby would be good on my V11? 

[mrelwood]

14 hours ago, Rawnei said:

Tip for people liking the Kenda 262, if you can get hold of the S22 stock tire (Jiluer J-820 2.75-14 (41-j 6pr)) it's like an upgraded K262, it has the same behavior but even less sharply falling to the sides, more quiet, better in mud.

Interesting. Based on my quick tests on a few S22s, I hated the turning behavior of the Jiluer with a passion. I find Shermans and the similar CST C-186 tire to turn lazy as well, but not nearly as bad as the Jiluer. I think WrongWay agrees with me.

 

6 hours ago, Clem604 said:

Maybe the Kenda knobby would be good on my V11? 

Sure! I’ve had the C-186 as a winter tire on a V11 for a few winters, and it fits without mods. In my understanding so does the K262.

[chanman]

I've started to like the S22's tire's behavior a lot but my initial impressions were terrible, I'm not quite sure what the transition was. I did get rid of the bulky stock pads for thinner ones, giving me some more leverage on being able to turn and angle it, and I put a few hundred miles of wear on it, but maybe I just learned to work with it. I also took the PSI down to 30 from the super high 45 it was shipped with, but I feel super confident on dirt and no problems maneuvering at low speeds now.

Edited November 20, 2022 by chanman

[Alexutlang]

I bought the Sherman S for maintenance free suspension. After 200km I've learned you need to change the rebound and compression settings on either side to better suit the activity you want to do. When I tried it out of the box settings it was so unstable above 60kph. I found faster R and harder C can make the sherman S very stable at high speed. The screws on the shell connecting to the suspension became loose after 200km so I added loctite and re tighten it. All screws came with loctite on mine but i guess not enough to hold it as I've been trying stairs for few days now.

[MrMonoWheel]

1 hour ago, Alexutlang said:

I bought the Sherman S for maintenance free suspension. After 200km I've learned you need to change the rebound and compression settings on either side to better suit the activity you want to do. When I tried it out of the box settings it was so unstable above 60kph. I found faster R and harder C can make the sherman S very stable at high speed. The screws on the shell connecting to the suspension became loose after 200km so I added loctite and re tighten it. All screws came with loctite on mine but i guess not enough to hold it as I've been trying stairs for few days now.

Im willing to bet those screws on the side and top will be an issue long term, as they are responsible for securing the entire structure of the unicycle.

[techyiam]

2 hours ago, Alexutlang said:

I tried it out of the box settings it was so unstable above 60kph. I found faster R and harder C can make the sherman S very stable at high speed.

Now that you got the suspension better dialed-in for high speed cruising, how would you rate the Sherman-S in terms of high speed stability at speeds between 60 km/h to 75+ km/h compared to your other wheels such as the Sherman, Sherman Max, and Monster Pro?

[fbhb]

1 hour ago, Unicycle Santa said:

Im willing to bet those screws on the side and top will be an issue long term, as they are responsible for securing the entire structure of the unicycle.

Best solution would be to swap them out for high quality screws (most probably the usual soft Chinese fasteners have been used (prone to stretch under load, thereby seemingly coming loose), then torque them down to the correct setting after applying Blue Loctite!

There should then be No reason At All for them to work loose, providing the taper Leaperkim have machined into the Magnesium battery housings ALSO mates correctly to the countersunk heads.

Countersunk screw heads provide the bonus of "self-cantering" for accurate alignment and a much greater clamping surface area in relation to the screw's diameter to hold ANY fixture securely just with correct torque alone, as long as the heads make FULL contact within the tapered hole!

This unfortunately, seems to be another area in EUC manufacture where the accuracy of the angle of taper for the drilled holes does not match the chosen fasteners, evidenced by a very narrow circular contact mark/ring left in the hole after removing the countersunk screw.

I believe this inaccuracy MAY Also be the case/issue with the Sherman-S, IIRC from the teardown photos/videos I've seen.

Edited November 20, 2022 by fbhb

[MrMonoWheel]

40 minutes ago, fbhb said:

Best solution would be to swap them out for high quality screws (most probably the usual soft Chinese fasteners have been used (prone to stretch under load, thereby seemingly coming loose), then torque them down to the correct setting after applying Blue Loctite!

There should then be No reason At All for them to work loose, providing the taper Leaperkim have machined into the Magnesium battery housings ALSO mates correctly to the countersunk heads.

Countersunk screw heads provide the bonus of "self-cantering" for accurate alignment and a much greater clamping surface area in relation to the screw's diameter to hold ANY fixture securely just with correct torque alone, as long as the heads make FULL contact within the tapered hole!

This unfortunately, seems to be another area in EUC manufacture where the accuracy of the angle of taper for the drilled holes does not match the chosen fasteners, evidenced by a very narrow circular contact mark/ring left in the hole after removing the countersunk screw.

I believe this inaccuracy MAY Also be the case/issue with the Sherman-S, IIRC from the teardown photos/videos I've seen.

Imma just JB weld the whole thing together 

[Tasku]

If and when unicycles are used in jumping, you need to inspect em more often. One thing that happens with em is that some screws can get loose. What I find interesting is that so many say this about sherm-S. Are they new to jumping or do they just do it so much more with it? Does Sherm-S get screws lose at more frequent manner compared to some others? There will be down the line user for sherm-s who does not tighten the screws, just wondering how that goes.

How long will it take that we call it "screw loose sherm-S"? I could not resist that pun, but sherm-s is still the wheel that I would be most interested in. Just gonna wait and see how it develops, or rather improves as more discovery is being made on its performance. It is the best wheel (that they always say) but not without any complaining. Top of my list is the screw loosening and living in northern area, the winter conditions would be interesting to know, can it or cant it..

Watching others complain and not getting to build own "picture" of this particular device -> torture!

Edit: Just to be clear, everytime I have a jumping session with my eucs I freeking check how tight em screws will  be before and after! They usually are, loose. If Sherman gets complains after a week of riding "wiggle wiggle" conditions all the time, then it is actually considerable improvement.. to the other wheels I have. I gues I would get some locktite, cant wait to hear how people cant get em screws open anymore, as you need to use it very small amounts..

Edited November 20, 2022 by Tasku

[Freeforester]

2 hours ago, fbhb said:

Best solution would be to swap them out for high quality screws (most probably the usual soft Chinese fasteners have been used (prone to stretch under load, thereby seemingly coming loose), then torque them down to the correct setting after applying Blue Loctite!

There should then be No reason At All for them to work loose, providing the taper Leaperkim have machined into the Magnesium battery housings ALSO mates correctly to the countersunk heads.

Countersunk screw heads provide the bonus of "self-cantering" for accurate alignment and a much greater clamping surface area in relation to the screw's diameter to hold ANY fixture securely just with correct torque alone, as long as the heads make FULL contact within the tapered hole!

This unfortunately, seems to be another area in EUC manufacture where the accuracy of the angle of taper for the drilled holes does not match the chosen fasteners, evidenced by a very narrow circular contact mark/ring left in the hole after removing the countersunk screw.

I believe this inaccuracy MAY Also be the case/issue with the Sherman-S, IIRC from the teardown photos/videos I've seen.

 

 

Würth consideration… okay, I’ll get me coat, again!

 

 

It's a slow day in the town and the streets are deserted. Times are tough, everybody is in debt and living on credit.
A tourist visiting the area drives through the town, stops at a hotel, and lays a £100 on the desk saying he wants to inspect the rooms upstairs to pick one for the night. As soon as he walks upstairs, the hotel owner grabs the cash and runs next door to pay his debt to the butcher.
The butcher takes the £100 and runs down the street to pay his debt to the pig farmer. The pig farmer takes the £100 and heads off to pay his bill to his feed supplier.
The supplier takes the £100 and runs to pay his debt to the local prostitute, who has also been facing hard times and has had to offer her "services" on credit.

Now, the hooker rushes to the hotel and pays off her room bill with the hotel owner.

The hotel proprietor then places the £100 back on the counter so the traveller will not suspect anything.
At that moment the traveller comes back down the stairs, stating that the rooms are not satisfactory, picks up his £100 and leaves.

No one produced anything and no one earned anything!

However... the whole village now thinks that they are out of debt and there is a false atmosphere of optimism and glee!

And that, my friends, is how a government works!

[UPONIT]

2 hours ago, Unicycle Santa said:

Imma just JB weld the whole thing together 

[UPONIT]

33 minutes ago, Freeforester said:

It's a slow day in the town and the streets are deserted. Times are tough, everybody is in debt and living on credit.

A tourist visiting the area drives through the town, stops at a hotel, and lays a £100 on the desk saying he wants to inspect the rooms upstairs to pick one for the night. As soon as he walks upstairs, the hotel owner grabs the cash and runs next door to pay his debt to the butcher.
The butcher takes the £100 and runs down the street to pay his debt to the pig farmer. The pig farmer takes the £100 and heads off to pay his bill to his feed supplier.
The supplier takes the £100 and runs to pay his debt to the local prostitute, who has also been facing hard times and has had to offer her "services" on credit.

Now, the hooker rushes to the hotel and pays off her room bill with the hotel owner.

The hotel proprietor then places the £100 back on the counter so the traveller will not suspect anything.
At that moment the traveller comes back down the stairs, stating that the rooms are not satisfactory, picks up his £100 and leaves.

No one produced anything and no one earned anything!

However... the whole village now thinks that they are out of debt and there is a false atmosphere of optimism and glee!

And that, my friends, is how a government works!

And yet none of the characters in your fable were government workers, or even employed by the government. (The pig farmer probably receives a government subsidy, as do almost all farmers here...)

Also: a prostitute who lets customers run a tab?!?!

[Paul A]

Each person:  was owed 100, was owing 100.  Net position is zero.  Cash flow, liquidity, velocity of money.

[Alexutlang]

Better or similar to sherman max but definitely not as stable as monster pro. I was thinking it will be the same because of similar weight but bigger wheels still more stable at high speed. I can easily correct my foot placement on monster pro above 70 or even 80kph but on sherman S any slight movement on either my feet it moves to that direction and needs to counter with hand movement.  I've hit 81kph (darknessbot)so far no wobbles even hitting bumps at higher speed. 

9 hours ago, techyiam said:

Now that you got the suspension better dialed-in for high speed cruising, how would you rate the Sherman-S in terms of high speed stability at speeds between 60 km/h to 75+ km/h compared to your other wheels such as the Sherman, Sherman Max, and Monster Pro?

 

[Alexutlang]

On 11/19/2022 at 5:03 AM, Tasku said:

Knobby Kenda262, heres my thoughts:
Cons - it is like swarm of bees on paved surfaces.

Sherman S is a lot quieter than OG or sherman max even on knobby tire.  And doing back and forth movement there's no growl sound like on the motor

[Alexutlang]

9 hours ago, Tasku said:

If and when unicycles are used in jumping, you need to inspect em more often. One thing that happens with em is that some screws can get loose. What I find interesting is that so many say this about sherm-S. Are they new to jumping or do they just do it so much more with it? Does Sherm-S get screws lose at more frequent manner compared to some others? There will be down the line user for sherm-s who does not tighten the screws, just wondering how that goes.

How long will it take that we call it "screw loose sherm-S"? I could not resist that pun, but sherm-s is still the wheel that I would be most interested in. Just gonna wait and see how it develops, or rather improves as more discovery is being made on its performance. It is the best wheel (that they always say) but not without any complaining. Top of my list is the screw loosening and living in northern area, the winter conditions would be interesting to know, can it or cant it..

Watching others complain and not getting to build own "picture" of this particular device -> torture!

Edit: Just to be clear, everytime I have a jumping session with my eucs I freeking check how tight em screws will  be before and after! They usually are, loose. If Sherman gets complains after a week of riding "wiggle wiggle" conditions all the time, then it is actually considerable improvement.. to the other wheels I have. I gues I would get some locktite, cant wait to hear how people cant get em screws open anymore, as you need to use it very small amounts..

Screws were tight out of the box, checked again at 100kms still tight then tried a lot of stairs and small jumps then checked at 200kms their loose - (no resistance to turn using allen key but the screw heads are not visibly higher than the shell type loose). I  tighten them at 14Nm so we'll see at 300km plus added more loctite 

[Rawnei]

31 minutes ago, Alexutlang said:

Sherman S is a lot quieter than OG or sherman max even on knobby tire.  And doing back and forth movement there's no growl sound like on the motor

Come on man, it's the tire that makes the sound and it doesn't make less of a sound because the wheel has suspension.

[Tasku]

11 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

Come on man, it's the tire that makes the sound and it doesn't make less of a sound because the wheel has suspension.

Well to be fair at certain point you will not hear the tyre if the wind noise is too much. 

edit.
So if you go faster with sherman-s then it makes less! 

Edited November 20, 2022 by Tasku

[Rawnei]

1 minute ago, Tasku said:

Well to be fair at certain point you will not hear the tyre if the wind noise is too much. 

Basically you won't hear anything, not even your own thoughts. 😂

[Steve Evans]

1 hour ago, Alexutlang said:

Screws were tight out of the box, checked again at 100kms still tight then tried a lot of stairs and small jumps then checked at 200kms their loose - (no resistance to turn using allen key but the screw heads are not visibly higher than the shell type loose). I  tighten them at 14Nm so we'll see at 300km plus added more loctite 

@Alexutlang, any stiction on the suspension?

thanks,

steve

[That Guy]

8 hours ago, Alexutlang said:

Better or similar to sherman max but definitely not as stable as monster pro. I was thinking it will be the same because of similar weight but bigger wheels still more stable at high speed. I can easily correct my foot placement on monster pro above 70 or even 80kph but on sherman S any slight movement on either my feet it moves to that direction and needs to counter with hand movement.  I've hit 81kph (darknessbot)so far no wobbles even hitting bumps at higher speed. 

 

Advantage of Monster Pro in stability at higher speeds is attributed entirely to its diameter. And then, at lower (close to walking) speeds - it should be all the way around, advantage ShermaS. Could you please comment on your experience and the agility of Sherman-S at pedestrian speeds @Alexutlang?

Edited November 21, 2022 by That Guy

[Alexutlang]

2 hours ago, That Guy said:

Advantage of Monster Pro in stability at higher speeds is attributed entirely to its diameter. And then, at lower (close to walking) speeds - it should be all the way around, advantage ShermaS. Could you please comment on your experience and the agility of Sherman-S at pedestrian speeds @Alexutlang?

I have no problem riding it at walking speed <5kph. Turning on tight turns needs commitment mainly because of the tire and higher pedal height. Planning to change it to michelin city pro once I have time.