Sherman-S 3600wh: 100V, 20", suspension, 97lb

[Clem604]

Agreed, he needed to manage his expectations on that one. Regardless, I'm in the market for an all around, do everything wheel and I think this is it. I pre-ordered a batch 2 from Eevees so I'm curious to see what , if anything, gets revised for the 2nd batch.

[Slartibartfast]

On 11/17/2022 at 8:48 AM, 360rumors said:

Is there some reason fastace didn’t think it was necessary to advise leaperkim to add a rigid brace between the forks? Fastace presumably knows what they are doing…?

At this stage, yeah, I would assume they know what they are doing.

 

Also, if anything, I would say there is a rigid brace over the top of the forks. In fact if anything the forks are much more securely secured to the battery pack, which is then intern securely fastened to the top motherboard bracket. This makes a complete 'U' shaped brace which in my view seems a lot more rigid than the plastic axle mounts at the bottom.

I grant you forming a 'rigid' bracket out of three separate pieces bolted together is hardly the most secure way to go but comparing that to the plastic axle joiners at the other end I'd say the top rather than the bottom is the more secure of the attachments!

 

As to why they opted for such seemingly flimsy attachments we can only guess, but until we actually see issues with their design I'd be inclined to trust that they know what they are doing: 

Edited November 18, 2022 by Slartibartfast

[MrMonoWheel]

18 minutes ago, Slartibartfast said:

At this stage, yeah, I would assume they know what they are doing.

 

Also, if anything, I would say they is a rigid brace over the top of the forks. In fact if anything the forks are much more securely secured to the battery pack, which is then intern securely fastened to the top motherboard bracket. This makes a complete 'U' shaped brace which in my view seems a lot more rigid than the plastic axle mounts at the bottom.

I grant you forming a 'rigid' bracket out of three separate pieces bolted together is hardly the most secure way to go but comparing that to the plastic axle joiners at the other end I'd say the top rather than the bottom is the more secure of the attachments!

 

As to why they opted for such seemingly flimsy attachments we can only guess, but until we actually see issues with their design I'd be inclined to trust that they know what they are doing: 

I'm not sure what plastic axle joiners you are referring to, the axle itself is what keeps the lower suspension pistons balanced. The plastic thing is just the mudguard and can even be ditched if you don't want it. The only think keeping the suspension balanced up top is the two battery cases joined to the top section via 8 bolts total. Definitely not optimal when a solid member could have been cast into the magnesium to clamp onto both upper units.

[Slartibartfast]

Oh, okay. Perhaps I have misunderstood.

I thought these were made of plastic:

 

To be honest I don't really know what I'm looking at here but I thought the stanchions' connection to the battery shells, and the battery shells' connection to the top plate looked a lot more rigid than the connection to the axle, but I could well be wrong.

Edited November 18, 2022 by Slartibartfast

[MrMonoWheel]

4 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:

Oh, okay. Perhaps I have misunderstood.

I thought these were made of plastic:

 

To be honest I don't really know what I'm looking at here but I thought the stanchions' connection to the battery shells, and the battery shells' connection to the top plate looked a lot more rigid than the connection to the axle, but I could well be wrong.

 

The outlined blue bracket (theres two) are responsible to clamping onto the lower suspension leg, these are metal. The one on the right bolts directly to the axle via the 4 red bolts. The 4 yellow bolts go through the metal bracket and screw into the plastic mudguard outlined in yellow, which goes up over the wheel down the other side and connects the same there, so it moves with the wheel. The stanchion's connection to the battery shell doesn't matter since that entire unit is only secured to the top shell via 4 bolts. There are quite a few ways they could have molded a solid clamp style bracket into the motherboard-housing part which would lock onto both upper stanchions, acting as the main brace between the two halves of the unicycle, instead of relying on the battery box-to-motherboard housing joint as the only source of structural rigidity. 

Edited November 18, 2022 by Unicycle Santa

[Slartibartfast]

Arr yes, I see now.

If you look closely you can even see the threads in the video along with a little Loctite, implying it must be made of mettle:

 

The same can also (kind of) be seen in the photo but you really have to know before you could tell:

[Freeforester]

The interlocking shape of the lower axle components shown in the last picture above is no accident,  they serve to securely clamp the lower section of the suspension tube in place; maybe we should try to see what the situation is as regards the upper fixing area? From the photos and videos I’ve seen/watched thus far, I’ve noticed a lot of similarly ‘keyed’ parts, which interlock, much like the casing halves do on the outer faces. I’d be somewhat surprised to learn they have (literally!) left any wiggle room concerning this aspect at the upper fixing area.

 

Edited November 18, 2022 by RagingGrandpa
(bugfix quote)

[Planemo]

FWIW I don't see any issues with how the hub section locates the legs, looks pretty solid to me. It's longitudinal strength which remains to be confirmed.

[Steve Evans]

folks, i just ordered my sherman s from ewheels. they are asking which tire i would prefer.

the choice is between the Kenda K262 (off road) and 340A (street). whilst i do 90% on pavement and do enjoy off-road too.

i read some older posts saying the 340a is a little unstable > 30mph.

i am leaning toward the k262 knobby for this reason

does anyone have opinions of these two tires?

thanks in advance,

steve

 

Edited November 18, 2022 by evans036

[Julianjc84]

Looking for someone who has access to the Sherman S.
after the sizes of the suspension. Maybe can fill in the attached image.
I'd like to have a bit of fun in cad modelling some concepts

[Clem604]

1 hour ago, evans036 said:

folks, i just ordered my sherman s from ewheels. they are asking which tire i would prefer.

the choice is between the Kenda K262 (off road) and 340A (street). whilst i do 90% on pavement and do enjoy off-road too.

i read some older posts saying the 340a is a little unstable > 30mph.

i am leaning toward the k262 nobby for this reason

does anyone have opinions of these two tires?

thanks in advance,

steve

 

I wish Eevees would offer a street tire version but unfortunately they don't, I'm not a huge fan of the knobby Kenda as I ride mostly street. I have a Continental Conti-Scoot in my garage that I will have them swap out immediately when the wheel gets here. To answer your question I've ridden a V11 with the 340A and it didn't feel unstable to me when going 30mph+ but I have no idea how that tire would handle on something like the Sherman.

[mrelwood]

1 hour ago, evans036 said:

folks, i just ordered my sherman s from ewheels. they are asking which tire i would prefer.

the choice is between the Kenda K262 (off road) and 340A (street). whilst i do 90% on pavement and do enjoy off-road too.

 I haven’t ridden the 340, but I’ve read good things about it.

 They carve differently, like knobbies and street tires always do. K340 should be pretty active while turning, and is more nimble to tilt-turn at lower speeds. The K262 is lazier to turn, which also makes it more stable at speed.

 Which do you want more, medium speed agility or relaxed cruising?

Then again if you want any grip on mud or wet off-road, knobby is your choice, hands down.

[Tawpie]

3 hours ago, evans036 said:

the choice is between the Kenda K262 (off road) and 340A (street). whilst i do 90% on pavement and do enjoy off-road too.

i read some older posts saying the 340a is a little unstable > 30mph.

I have a 340A on my OG Sherman... it's very nice (and quiet). CAVEAT: I have precious few miles on it and am certain this is due to rider incompetence, but at about 32 mph the sherm and 340A reminded me what speed wobbles were. I'm certain it was me because I have basically zero time above 30 mph.

It turns easily and predictably, and didn't seem to tramline at all. I would keep it (if I were a sherm person and was keeping the wheel).

[MrMonoWheel]

Is the tire depicted in all the images of the Sherman S the knobby you guys speak of? I do a decent amount of street riding but I also do trails, sometimes mud, beaches, etc so I'll be sticking to the knobby.

[Steve Evans]

37 minutes ago, Unicycle Santa said:

Is the tire depicted in all the images of the Sherman S the knobby you guys speak of? I do a decent amount of street riding but I also do trails, sometimes mud, beaches, etc so I'll be sticking to the knobby.

ewheels said the knobby is the Kenda K262. dont know if that's what's in the images

[Steve Evans]

44 minutes ago, Tawpie said:

I have a 340A on my OG Sherman... it's very nice (and quiet). CAVEAT: I have precious few miles on it and am certain this is due to rider incompetence, but at about 32 mph the sherm and 340A reminded me what speed wobbles were. I'm certain it was me because I have basically zero time above 30 mph.

It turns easily and predictably, and didn't seem to tramline at all. I would keep it (if I were a sherm person and was keeping the wheel).

@Tawpie, it may not be you, but the tire. kuji rolls described similar behavior to you in this vid on the sherman (btw, he loves the kenda340 < 30mph): 

 

[MrMonoWheel]

Do the knobbies absolutely scream on tarmac because that's what I'd love 

[fbhb]

Adam Wrongway, making some suspension adjustments to the Sherman-S: 

https://www.instagram.com/p/ClEfBNROJyA/

Edited November 18, 2022 by fbhb

[Freeforester]

19 minutes ago, fbhb said:

Adam Wrongway, making some suspension adjustments to the Sherman-S: 

https://www.instagram.com/p/ClEfBNROJyA/

Ha ha - it’s sure gonna be interesting to see how ‘available’ and easy the adjustment is on the Challenger!

[techyiam]

Regarding Wrongway's Sherman-S, what happened to the stiction he was complaining about?

[Paul D]

6 hours ago, evans036 said:

folks, i just ordered my sherman s from ewheels. they are asking which tire i would prefer.

the choice is between the Kenda K262 (off road) and 340A (street). whilst i do 90% on pavement and do enjoy off-road too.

i read some older posts saying the 340a is a little unstable > 30mph.

i am leaning toward the k262 knobby for this reason

does anyone have opinions of these two tires?

thanks in advance,

steve

 

I haven’t been asked anything yet and I ordered quite awhile ago. I was planning on the knobby as I have many hundreds of miles of trail around my town. 

[InfiniteWheelie]

1 hour ago, Unicycle Santa said:

Do the knobbies absolutely scream on tarmac because that's what I'd love 

As a former Sherman owner, the stock Kenda knobby does indeed scream once you get going. The smoother the road, the louder and more satisfying it is.

It does sound epic. It reminds me of a sport bike climbing in revs as you speed up.

[Mango]

I have over 15,000 kms on the K262/OG Sherman, you'll be OKAY.

[Tasku]

Knobby Kenda262, heres my thoughts:
Cons - it is like swarm of bees on paved surfaces.

Pros - You get used to it. Being knobby it will give you good control in majority of conditions. Grippy, even works in snow. After ~10 000 kilometres, this tyre still has pattern to it. I ride in mixed conditions, not all paved. I could not recommend many tyres after 10 000km, just this one and some reinforced ones (like the heidenau k66 snowtex 80/90-14!)

Sadly I have not tried the street alternative but.. Very easy to recommend knobby. For long time have been planning to switch my knobby to fore mentioned heidenau just as my other wheel has but you see, the knobby just keeps going. I did put some "slime" in the inner tube cause it got microfractures, but the knobby just keeps rocking the free world in these part of woods..

For street tyre, if not reinforced or such I think they recommend switching em around 2500km? And some push that to 5k but.. Again I dont know, but I assume the street would not last as long in use. Someone with more experience could fill on that tyre.

[MrMonoWheel]

3 hours ago, Tasku said:

Knobby Kenda262, heres my thoughts:
Cons - it is like swarm of bees on paved surfaces.

Pros - You get used to it. Being knobby it will give you good control in majority of conditions. Grippy, even works in snow. After ~10 000 kilometres, this tyre still has pattern to it. I ride in mixed conditions, not all paved. I could not recommend many tyres after 10 000km, just this one and some reinforced ones (like the heidenau k66 snowtex 80/90-14!)

Sadly I have not tried the street alternative but.. Very easy to recommend knobby. For long time have been planning to switch my knobby to fore mentioned heidenau just as my other wheel has but you see, the knobby just keeps going. I did put some "slime" in the inner tube cause it got microfractures, but the knobby just keeps rocking the free world in these part of woods..

For street tyre, if not reinforced or such I think they recommend switching em around 2500km? And some push that to 5k but.. Again I dont know, but I assume the street would not last as long in use. Someone with more experience could fill on that tyre.

That con is a massive pro for me, I'd love my tire to scream as I'm riding. Now I'm looking forward to getting it even more!