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EGG Electric Unicycle: DIY and OpenSource design that is easy to customize for your specific needs


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I know. Just a bypass to the problem.

I'm waiting for the custom firmware for the 30B, because I need to customize starting/stoping procedure. BTW this does not belong to this thread but to your firmware one, sorry for being OT.

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Hey @electric_vehicle_lover you offered to give me permission to use your 3d printed design for EUC. I would very much appreciate it if I you would still let me try it out. So is the 3d model file online or do you send it to me?? I don't know how big of a file you can send in a message on forum but if it is to exceeds max limit I can send you my email address. What kind of material would I use for print??

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@baltimorecity the latest version is here (files are FreeCAD that you can install to export the STL files): https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/shell/tree/release/v3.0

Documentation: https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki/EGG-Electric-Unicycle

I can help you. Post questions here.

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2 minutes ago, baltimorecity said:

@electric_vehicle_lover do you believe that the model you created to be universal with any brand EUC??

No!! It is specific for the motor, controller and battery packs list on Part List here: https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki/EGG-Electric-Unicycle#part-list

It is for the ones that want to build their own EUC using the motor that runs up to 30km/h and with the controller board that have Bluetooth.

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I prefer this version!! And this new version printed in pink is for my girlfriend - she likes a lot this EGG EUC :-)

Source files and files for 3D print are available here: https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/shell/tree/release/v4.0

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The GotWay app works and I can see the speed (which is off by ~ +4km/h). I took this screenshot when it did spin at max speed and stopped:

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And comparing the older version with this new one:

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Edited by electric_vehicle_lover
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I am now printing for my own EUC. This time I am using natural PLA that is a bit translucent - I hope others can see a bit of the board and battery packs from the outside.
I am also improving a bit the design: I want to use the full board dissipator; enclose the M8 nuts on the shell to make it more comfortable for the legs.

While that, my girlfriend is making an Arduino code to make work a WS2812 RGB LED bar. The idea is to read the serial port that connects to bluetooth module, on the MicroWorks 30B4 board, and read the current and velocity value (just like the Gotway app does).
Current values are positive in one direction and negative on the other - when we brake, the current value changes in signal from + to - --> this way we can detect a brake and turn the led bard to RED for making the STOP tail light.
With velocity value, we can make a kind of rainbow to flash/run at a speed related to EUC speed.

Now I just need to ask @esaj what are the sequence of values/commands to send to the board so it outputs current and speed values :-)

NOTE: the 5V LED bar on the picture have 15 LEDs and should "eat" 0.9A :-( 

2016-06-17 23.59.26.jpg

Edited by electric_vehicle_lover
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16 minutes ago, electric_vehicle_lover said:

Now I just need to ask @esaj what are the sequence of values/commands to send to the board so it outputs current and speed values :-)

No need to send commands, just open the connection and start receiving. The protocol (for both King Song & Gotway) is explained here:

and more generally in that thread.

EDIT: Whoops, linked wrong post at first.

Edited by esaj
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I think it would be easier to use the hall sensors as input for the LEDs. No need for opening connection or deciphering the bluetooth data. You just count the impulses to get speed. Braking could be detected as decrease in the speed over time.

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Today we went to the beach with our EGG EUCs :-)

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@andress

I believe I just need to connect 2 wires to the board: GND and TX that goes to the Serial Bluetooth module. Then I just need to keep reading the TX pin on Arduino and keep looking to this START sequence of bytes in HEX: 04 18 5A 5A 5A 5A 55 AA
Following the START, the information will come like this:  16 bits [voltage] + 16 bits [speed] + 32 bits [trip distance] + 16 bits [current] + 16 bits [temperature].
I just need to look at current and speed values and ignore the others.

Is this correct @esaj?

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4 hours ago, electric_vehicle_lover said:

I believe I just need to connect 2 wires to the board: GND and TX that goes to the Serial Bluetooth module. Then I just need to keep reading the TX pin on Arduino and keep looking to this START sequence of bytes in HEX: 04 18 5A 5A 5A 5A 55 AA
Following the START, the information will come like this:  16 bits [voltage] + 16 bits [speed] + 32 bits [trip distance] + 16 bits [current] + 16 bits [temperature].
I just need to look at current and speed values and ignore the others.

Is this correct @esaj?

Sounds good to me, I don't remember the protocol details by heart, though ;)

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Me and my girlfriend, we are right now at a Makerfaire Lisbon to promote the Electric Unicycle and we use our EGG EUCs.

I knew that public would mainly be parents, grand fathers and kids - and I love to promote to kids because I really believe in the new generations to use technology that is environment friendly.

I verified that young kids learn much faster and are not afraid to ride as their fathers and mothers - most parents are overweight and seem they don't do any kind of sports...

Some pictures:

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On 2/26/2016 at 3:26 AM, electric_vehicle_lover said:

EGG Electric Unicycle is a DIY and OpenSource design that is easy to customize for your specific needs:

  • Do you want to use a bigger wheel other than the 14'' wheel?
  • Do you want to use a powerful motor that also runs faster like 30km/h?
  • Do you want to use more batteries to extend the range of your EUC?
  • Do you want to add more lights to improve your EUC visibility and be safer?

Current state as of 22 May 2016:

 

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---

Starting a thread for my next project that is an OpenSource 3D printed shell for DIY and generics EUCs.

I will make the design using free OpenSource CAD: FreeCAD: http://www.freecadweb.org. Everyone will be able to install FreeCAD and make new versions/customize the base shell to their needs -- this will open the possibility for customized EUCs shells that can accommodate more batteries (more range, faster speeds), bigger motors (16 and 18'' wheels), more lights, wireless app, etc!!

I will start by disassembling my generics EUCs, taking measures, design prototypes, 3D print and iterate until I have a working shell. I will also buy from Microworks (http://microworks.en.alibaba.com/) a motor, controller, batteries, pedals, etc to assembly an EUC with this 3D printed shell.
I am planning to present at a local Makerfaire, the DIY and generic EUC with 3D printed shell.

The source files and the STLs for 3D print will be available here: https://github.com/generic-electric-unicycle/shell and I will use this thread for communicate the progress.

NOTE: a big reference for me is the work shared by @Mystamo here - thanks!!: 

 

The videos are "private", can't play at all.

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On 1.6.2016 at 1:40 AM, HunkaHunkaBurningLove said:

Have you tried doing a PETG overlay that can be screwed over top of the pedals?  Or I guess depending on the wheel, edge inserts like the corner protectors in this thread but just longer to extend the pedal size...

 

I´ve been actually thinking about exactly the same thing. My pedals are only 17 cm long, which is not very comfortable, so. I just did the following design, which I will probably try out once I have otherwise finished my printed unicycle project.  It´s a 3d printed overlay, which extends the outer edge by 15 mm and front&rear edges of the pedal by 20 mm both. So the total length would be 21 cm instead of 17. Most weight still rests on the section which is directly supported by the metal pedal, the extensions have to carry very little actual weight. I was thinking this could be either attached with some screws with very flat heads (need to cut some threads into the pedal) or maybe even hotglue might be strong enough.

Pedal enlargements.jpg

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Nice work!  Is there enough room to clear the pedal support in the middle part since you've added two bracing fins?  Look into 3M VHB tape to secure it to avoid needing screws.  It is very strong.  Or perhaps even using Sugru in strategic spots could secure it on while still being removable.  With the VHB tape you'd likely destroy the overlay trying to remove it unless you used smaller pieces along the edges somewhere.

Edited by HunkaHunkaBurningLove
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6 minutes ago, HunkaHunkaBurningLove said:

Nice work!  Is there enough room to clear the pedal support in the middle part since you've added two bracing fins?  Look into 3M VHB tape to secure it to avoid needing screws.  It is very strong.  Or perhaps even using Sugru in strategic spots could secure it on while still being removable.  With the VHB tape you'd likely destroy the overlay trying to remove it unless you used smaller pieces along the edges somewhere.

I did some measurements before I added the fins and there should be just enough clearance. I´m actually pretty confident that a sufficient amount of hotglue on the flat section of the metal pedal is probably more than enough to keep it securely in place. The pedal cover will also need to be covered with some material with a rough surface. I will make a test print of this pedal cover and see how well it works in real life once I´ve finished my 3d printed EUC project. I´ll publish the stl file after testing in case the pedal cover turns out to be useable.

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