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EGG Electric Unicycle: DIY and OpenSource design that is easy to customize for your specific needs


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27 minutes ago, electric_vehicle_lover said:

They don't provide that information but they say is for electric unicycles. I just bought 2 units because I am building 2 EGGs EUCs where I want to have lights.

One thing that I miss is to known how much current this board can handle... I want to use high amperage LED.

Didn't notice it being told anywhere, but probably not much, judging simply by the size of it. The converter I have is this:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Step-down-Transformer-Electric-Bike-DC-Converter-Adapter-36V-48V-72V-TO-12V-10A/32358226204.html

Said to handle 10A, but never tested it with that high amperage.

14 minutes ago, electric_vehicle_lover said:

@esaj I have an idea: let's say the board outputs the speed and current value constantly, then other microcontroller can read that information and control the RGB led strip to make the brake light and flash the LEDs related with current speed :-)

Not a big fan of the flashing leds myself (but brake light is a must) ;), but ways to implement this that popped into my mind would be measuring the current for example with a current shunt resistor (voltage drop over resistor) or something like the ACS712 -chips (up to 30A with the highest current model, it outputs a voltage-signal for the current, which can then be read by the microcontroller). If using the ACS, for safety, it should probably be paralleled with the real current wires (so even if the sensor fails, it won't cut power), but that will probably affect the reading (as only part of the current goes through the sensor) and needs to be corrected for in the software. Speed could probably be read with a reed-switch (like in bike computers) with a magnet attached to the tire...

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4 hours ago, esaj said:

Not a big fan of the flashing leds myself (but brake light is a must) ;), but ways to implement this that popped into my mind would be measuring the current for example with a current shunt resistor (voltage drop over resistor) or something like the ACS712 -chips (up to 30A with the highest current model, it outputs a voltage-signal for the current, which can then be read by the microcontroller). If using the ACS, for safety, it should probably be paralleled with the real current wires (so even if the sensor fails, it won't cut power), but that will probably affect the reading (as only part of the current goes through the sensor) and needs to be corrected for in the software. Speed could probably be read with a reed-switch (like in bike computers) with a magnet attached to the tire...

The board have serial wire that goes to Bluetooth module, would be easy to wire the TX pin in parallel to be able to read the data... in the hope that speed is always an output.

About the way you say, well, this MicroWorks 30B4 board already have 2 ACS714, for sure to read the current because I really believe the firmware implements FOC. So, the best is do our own firmware - you don't think is impossible, right? ;-)

Edited by electric_vehicle_lover
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2 minutes ago, electric_vehicle_lover said:

The board have serial wire that goes to Bluetooth module, would be easy to wire the TX pin in parallel to be able to read the data... in the hope that speed is always an output.

Yeah, if it's like the older Gotways & King Songs, reading the data is fairly straight forward, as it they just keep repeating the values in same order at a steady rate.

 

2 minutes ago, electric_vehicle_lover said:

About the way you say, well, this MicroWorks 30B4 board already have 2 ACS714, for sure to read the current because I really believe the firmware implements FOC. So, the best is do our own firmware - you don't think is impossible, right? ;-)

Difficult, yes, impossible, no. Starting with a ready-made and known-to-work -board also helps, because then there's no need to second-guess whether the faults are in the circuitry or the software ;)  And scrounging up some volunteer test pilots... Or getting some serious body armor :P

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4 hours ago, HunkaHunkaBurningLove said:

How secure are those hose clamps that you are using to fasten the housing to the pedals?  That looks like it might be a weak spot which could fail during a crash?

Well, they are metal and seem very strong. The first thing to broke in a crash should be the 3D printed plastic parts. I hope o find some kind of liquid glue to make a cover on the printed parts, to make them more strong!! Anyway, I can always decide to go with PETG wich is a more expensive: 

 

3 minutes ago, esaj said:

And scrounging up some volunteer test pilots... Or getting some serious body armor :P

@esajEven if I trust to some degree on this chinese boards and firmware, I would trust more on my own firmware!!!

Edited by electric_vehicle_lover
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42 minutes ago, electric_vehicle_lover said:

It is ready to run baby!!!

This is the 2nd version of the design that uses 2 battery packs but can go up to 5 battery packs!!!

I will share later the 3D files and more information but now is time to go ride the EGG electric unicycle on the beach and enjoy the last hours of this nice Sunday :-)

20160529_160951-1024x1820.jpg

20160529_150455-1024x576.jpg

20160529_153757-1024x1820.jpg

After riding it you can forget any family planing ;) It's way to big at that height. Can we see a moving you're riding it?

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Hey I wonder if it would be possible to make some custom pedals out of that PETG plastic.  People seem to be wanting larger pedals for their EUCs.  A 3D printed pedal might just be the answer as long as it is strong enough.  I wonder though whether repeated lever stresses at the support axle area might end up cracking at that point?  Also would it be a problem to screw on the axle retainers on either end?

Edit:. Or maybe just printing a pedal overlay might work as long as it can be attached to the pedals securely.  That way the existing pedal can act as a support while the plastic just extends the peripheries for a larger foot size.

Edited by HunkaHunkaBurningLove
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10 minutes ago, HunkaHunkaBurningLove said:

Hey I wonder if it would be possible to make some custom pedals out of that PETG plastic.  People seem to be wanting larger pedals for their EUCs.  A 3D printed pedal might just be the answer as long as it is strong enough.  I wonder though whether repeated lever stresses at the support axle area might end up cracking at that point?  Also would it be a problem to screw on the axle retainers on either end?

Nice idea! I really thing PETG is up to the task!!!

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Have you tried doing a PETG overlay that can be screwed over top of the pedals?  Or I guess depending on the wheel, edge inserts like the corner protectors in this thread but just longer to extend the pedal size...

 

Edited by HunkaHunkaBurningLove
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Hello, I wanted to know if putting a motor on top of the wheel instead of a larger engine inside which the posibility to work? putting a smaller brushless out (in contact with the tire) could leave the cheaper the project? use an ESC and the driver of a drone?  

 

excuse me, for my bad English, and by my crazy idea, but I live in Brazil and this brushless motor comes here for 2 or 3 times the value, outside the entrance iposto the country :(

Edited by Fernando Paulino
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Another design, just in time to Sunday outdoor activities :-)

This version is more stable, because the 2 battery packs are on sides of the wheel - but the pedals clearance is good. The controller boards which is light, is on top (unfortunately the firmware can't be configured to be placed on horizontal). 

2016-06-05 12.29.38 (Medium).jpg2016-06-05 12.30.00 (Medium).jpg2016-06-05 12.30.15 (Medium).jpg2016-06-05 12.31.05 (Medium).jpg

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Maybe tell Microworks about your project here and give them a link and share some photos.  Sometimes building a bit of repoire might make them become more interested in providing you with a firmware flash that can orientate the control board horizontally which would open up a whole bunch of design possibilities for you.  It's probably not a difficult thing to change in firmware.  The public exposure no doubt helps them sell more boards to the DIY crowd.

Edited by HunkaHunkaBurningLove
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Did that already ;-) I am not sure that DIY market is relevant for them.

I have the expectation they will keep selling this components.

They can costumize the firmware but that needs something that I am not interested. Anyway, VESC firmware is OpenSource and with high success on DIY electric skates, I hope to be able to bring VESC firmware to EUCs for the MicroWorks 30B4 boards (there are others similars on market).

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On 26/02/2016 at 5:42 PM, OliverH said:

The BT module looks like to the (HS-)HC-06 module, which is BT 2.0 EDR only (classic bluetooth) - not BT4.x smart/ low energy.

Hi,

I own a one wheel skateboard using a MW 30B board. 

I've tried a HC-05 module (6 pin) with no luck. I can pair, but the application provided by MicroWorks won't get any data. I guess I'm missing something with the 6th pin, which seems to be for validation (of AT commands?)

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On 24/05/2016 at 10:35 AM, electric_vehicle_lover said:

On current design, and after some optimizations, the space for legs is still low and so is a bit unconfortable to ride the EUC.

I did a test to put the MicroWorks 30B4 electronic board on top horizontal and tried to calibrate, but the calibration don't work when the board is placed horizontally - I had that expectation because I tried other board GEN1 that worked.

That's interesting because on my single wheel skateboard, the MW 30B (smaller heatsink, previous firmware version), the controller is mount horizontally:

0c6d00008cd0b347a9842e99458d98a3.jpg

Sorry for the blurry pic.

Here is the controller:

index.php?secure_token=vAd5Mgzm1RP05CzEs

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