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KS18XL brief "hitch" when accelerating and braking quick


vikingto

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@enaon That looks like a much better design. Wish KingSong would copy that already.

@Funky I don't know if it can be welded or not, it's not the footplates it's the part underneath that the rod goes through. It's really soft metal either way, so once I get the paint off I'll have that welder fella tell me if it's something that can be done or not.

@conecones Thanks for your input man. I saw that posting a few weeks ago and was trying to find it this morning, turns out it was right next to this tab (32 tabs open lol). @suicidebike did an awesome job, and I'm not sure but I think my break is in the axle itself, not just a weld breaking free. And like you said it's all about rider safety. So I went ahead and ordered up a new motor from ewheels, but seriously considering bringing that new motor down to the welder fella and have him add a more welds before installing. Either that or just avoid popping off of any speedbumps or curbs with the 18XL, just use it as a cruiser. Besides that's what my (incoming) S22 is for anyways right?

 

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21 hours ago, Funky said:

I thought it was simple round metal - if weld gets broken axle could move around.. If it's keyed, it simply moves little bit one way and back.. Making that "Chunk" sound.

I'm sure you're correct. Not planning on removing the axle, but it's only welded on one side, which I think must be for axle removal if needed..?

But I've decided I'll just install the new motor (because I've been seriously missing this wheel), and have this motor I opened get better welded and keep it on hand as a backup.

And I think I'm also gonna start a new post on whether softer riding modes create more stress on the axle vs just riding in hard mode? The reason I wonder this is because I rode in hard mode only for the last full year, at 220lbs mostly on pavement some trails. Then I suddenly get a broken axle (welds) when I started experimenting with swinging the pedals more in softer modes. It might be just a coincidence, but it makes me wonder if in hard mode the battery and motor "assist" more in keeping the pedals level, reducing the overall stress on the axle? Not certain about this but thought I'd toss it out there, now that I've got a better look at the inner workings of the machine. What say you?

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9 minutes ago, vikingto said:

I'm sure you're correct. Not planning on removing the axle, but it's only welded on one side, which I think must be for axle removal if needed..?

But I've decided I'll just install the new motor (because I've been seriously missing this wheel), and have this motor I opened get better welded and keep it on hand as a backup.

And I think I'm also gonna start a new post on whether softer riding modes create more stress on the axle vs just riding in hard mode? The reason I wonder this is because I rode in hard mode only for the last full year, at 220lbs mostly on pavement some trails. Then I suddenly get a broken axle (welds) when I started experimenting with swinging the pedals more in softer modes. It might be just a coincidence, but it makes me wonder if in hard mode the battery and motor "assist" more in keeping the pedals level, reducing the overall stress on the axle? Not certain about this but thought I'd toss it out there, now that I've got a better look at the inner workings of the machine. What say you?

Good call. Install the new motor and see if it fixes the problem. You can always take the old one to a local shop to see if they can tack it, should the new motor prove fixed. I dont know what you would do with a spare motor, but if the axle coming unwelded is common.... I don't think the modes will have much to do with it. I think its likely the QC of the original part and the way its beign used. Heavier people that ride offroad, are obviously going to find the weak spot more often. I know I'd spend $300 in a heartbeat, if thats what it took to get my beloved 18xl back on the road. Motors have fairly instant torque, but i suspect its nothing in compare to the forces of weight and bumps from a rider. It aint like we're dumping the clutch on a 500hp powertrain here. Most axles I've ever broken on things, were from impact rather than torque.

Thanks for all the updates, I really hope you found the issue and its solved. Hopefully the new motor will last and youll eventually get sick of seeing your spare laying around....

Edited by ShanesPlanet
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37 minutes ago, vikingto said:

I'm sure you're correct. Not planning on removing the axle, but it's only welded on one side, which I think must be for axle removal if needed..?

Where there only one "dot" weld on one side? Or both sides? I think mine also had welds only on one side. But i had two "dot" welds. :D 

How many welds where there together?

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2 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

Heavier people that ride offroad, are obviously going to find the weak spot more often.

Thanks for calling me fat haha!

No but you're spot on. I mean skis, bikes, paramotors (maybe?), shoes, chairs, etc.. all take more of a beating with heavier people. But I'm definitely don't want too change much of how I ride this wheel, because I was overall not that hard on it. So it will be good to have a spare motor around that's reinforced somewhat, cuz I'm sure this will probably happen again. Plus I really want to see if this axle can be welded more solidly. Thanks for keepin tabs on this Shane, keep on leanin' on!

Edited by vikingto
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1 hour ago, Funky said:

Where there only one "dot" weld on one side? Or both sides? I think mine also had welds only on one side. But i had two "dot" welds. :D 

How many welds where there together?

So yes there were only 2 welds on the power cables side of the motor only. The side going to the motherboard has no welds. They seemed to gap and position the welds more for vertical stresses, but there's room for 3 more similar sized welds spaced equally apart.

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