Jump to content

KS "knocking" noise?


Yashaya Yasharahla

Recommended Posts

8 hours ago, SuperSport said:

Yes, but sometimes only when you are pressing harder on one side than the other. 

Yes. I have realized that the knocking sound only happens when I am leaning to the left or turning left (battery indicator is behind me). So, what I am going to do is this: I am going to switch the left panel for the right panel and vice versa. I noticed that the panel has play on the left side only. It's like...the panel isn't snug even after I have screwed on all of the screws. If you push the left side panel, it moves considerably, but the right side panel is fixed-- it doesn't move when I push it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Yashaya Yasharahla said:

Yes. I have realized that the knocking sound only happens when I am leaning to the left or turning left (battery indicator is behind me). So, what I am going to do is this: I am going to switch the left panel for the right panel and vice versa. I noticed that the panel has play on the left side only. It's like...the panel isn't snug even after I have screwed on all of the screws. If you push the left side panel, it moves considerably, but the right side panel is fixed-- it doesn't move when I push it. 

Here is a video of the considerable play on the left panel though all of the screws are screwed on tightly:

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The panel should not be loose if you tightened all the screws. Try to see why the screws dont go all the way. If this cant be fixed prop the panel from the inside with something so it cant move. If the battery is loose and beating against the panel, just stick something, like cardboard ir foam between the battery and the panel. Just make sure this material will withstand elevated battery temperatures,,..its hard to advise without seeing why the panel is loose

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Cloud said:

The panel should not be loose if you tightened all the screws. Try to see why the screws dont go all the way. If this cant be fixed prop the panel from the inside with something so it cant move. If the battery is loose and beating against the panel, just stick something, like cardboard ir foam between the battery and the panel. Just make sure this material will withstand elevated battery temperatures,,..its hard to advise without seeing why the panel is loose

I have rectified all of those issues: I put rubber between the batteries on both sides-- they no longer wiggle. I have put some tape and other material (I forgot the English term) around the screws and the play has ceased. As you see in the last video above, the "knocking" noise still persists. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its so hard to figure it out from a distance....you need to get off the wheel, and roll it and get down to it and walk next to the wheel and listen where the noise is coming from when its rolling. A noise like that should reveal itself. See if there is anything else loose inside. 

I dont know the insides of a 18" so well, so its hard to tell but...make sure your inflating valve cap on the tire is not rubbing against the casing....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The noise is very audible. Just a guess.. something must have stuck inside near the left hub area like probably a loose wire picked up from the road? The only way to know is to open the left side of the casing exposing the wheel hub.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice you posted the video.

Just my limited nubie thoughts.

The sound seems to not be in time with the wheel rpm, and VERY interesting that it made the "clunk" at odd times when you were almost stopped.

It sounds like a "plastic thump" maybe EUC case, something touching it.

Because it is on only one side then it would seem that your weight is flexing the case, EUC housing, shell,  enough to cause contact?

Have you used a strong flashlight and looked well from the bottom?

Thanks to your problem, sorry, I have inspected my EUC just to discover.

Please keep us all posted.

I assume you have slowly turned the wheel to inspect?

ukj

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take both side panels off and ride without them..... See if noise persists.

if so, take the flat, top panel off ( located under the handle)

release the hall sensor ( 5 pin connector located on the side of the pcb board which has 6 screws on edge of the board) 

now unscrew the 3 motor wires ( yellow, blue, green) carefully pull the wires down through the top plate into the side battery compartment. Do same with the 5 pin hall sensor.

next. 

Unscrew the 6 Phillips head bolts (each side) at the bottom of the side compartment which hold the casing onto the pedal brackets.

now stand the EUC upright, hold the tire/rim with your feet, pull the casing slightly apart and lift the casing up off the tire.

watch as you lift that the wires are feeding through freely.

once you have the case separated from the wheel, inspect inside the casing for any evidence the wheel has been touching the case or other debris which may be causing the noise.

 

also inspect the 6 mounting holes per side for cracking of the casing.

if you have not found the cause of the noise at this point, let me know and you can start to look at the motor and pedals for the cause.

make sure you use the correct size screwdriver for each size screws/bolts

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3rd Update:

 

First, I thank you all for the comments and suggestions^^

So, I met with the store's owner of the Kingsong wheel today (Sunday). Because I live in the countryside and we don't have any nearby post offices, I asked the owner if he would meet me on his off day since I don't have any time during the weekdays. He agreed and apologized for inconveniencing me. I had to drive 3 hours to his shop. He disassembled the unit (we did it together) and he tightened the main axle. He re-assembled the unit, and I rode it... the sound continued. By the way, there were no cracks in the body at all-- we both checked^^ So, then he told me that he was going to open the motor tomorrow and I returned home since it was getting late. He rode the unit and the "knocking" sound was not as great as when I did it-- I am so happy I rode it to show him because he weighs only 62kg!!! I weigh 107kg currently, so it will obviously make more of a sound for my weight than his. Anyway, he said that if it's the ball bearings making that sound, he will replace them. If I continue to hear the sound after the bearings have been replaced, he said that he will replace the motor for me. He also said that he would send it back to me by mail on Tuesday. I found him to be a very pleasant man and he spoke English surprisingly. I hope he can fix it. I have 4 months left on the warranty. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/15/2016 at 11:34 PM, Kells said:

Thanks for the update!  Let us know what the ultimate culprit is!

The ball bearings were loose (about 2-3mm) according to the mechanic. He sent me a brand new Kingsong 18in and I haven't had any problems since :)  I did pay a 5 dollar shipping charge. I am definitely buying from this guy again (guaranteed 6-month warranty)!! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Yashaya Yasharahla said:

The ball bearings were loose (about 2-3mm) according to the mechanic. He sent me a brand new Kingsong 18in and I haven't had any problems since :)  I did pay a 5 dollar shipping charge. I am definitely buying from this guy again (guaranteed 6-month warranty)!! 

I was wondering when we would get a ballbearing story! This seems to be the first, they don't last forever...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...