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Ninebot Z10 suddenly stopped responding but lights on permanently


DrAdam1986

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So small update. I am sure the problem is not with the batteries (not even battery B).

 

So look at this video https://photos.app.goo.gl/yQX4N2G5kfohGAYd6 and tell me whether you can make any sense of it. But what I suspect is that the problem lies with the boards probably, although no idea which one. On that video the new controller board is on. New thing is that now I can't see any LEDs on the boards coming to life at any time... Both controller and aluminium substrate boards are removed and inspected carefully. No obvious burns anywhere.

 

Looking forward to your input guys. I'm out of ideas.

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Some times you can't see the damage on the board. Just saying.. Could buy another board. :D Surprise, Surprise at the end it wasn't board fault, but something completely else. Maybe the other board have died, but it looks "fine". Maybe a broken wire.. I have no idea at all.

Maybe everything is working, but it's software issue. Then again changing mobo should fix that..

Edited by Funky
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Hey funky! Thanks for the reply. What is mobo?

 

I am wondering whether the aluminium substrate is the faulty one now... I mean as we said in the early days of the topic it's not unreasonable to have damaged each other. 

 

Anyone knows a good workshop I could get it to in (South) London?

Still open to ideas though.

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2 minutes ago, DrAdam1986 said:

 

Hey funky! Thanks for the reply. What is mobo?

 

I am wondering whether the aluminium substrate is the faulty one now... I mean as we said in the early days of the topic it's not unreasonable to have damaged each other. 

 

Anyone knows a good workshop I could get it to in (South) London?

Still open to ideas though.

Mobo - motherboard, in this case i was talking about ether one in z10 (Aluminum substrate or main one)

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1 minute ago, Funky said:

Mobo - motherboard, in this case i was talking about ether one in z10 (Aluminum substrate or main one)

Thanks my friend. The controller board is brand new. I'm thinking of replacing the aluminium substrate too now.

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21 hours ago, DrAdam1986 said:

So small update. I am sure the problem is not with the batteries (not even battery B).

 

So look at this video https://photos.app.goo.gl/yQX4N2G5kfohGAYd6 and tell me whether you can make any sense of it. But what I suspect is that the problem lies with the boards probably, although no idea which one. On that video the new controller board is on. New thing is that now I can't see any LEDs on the boards coming to life at any time... Both controller and aluminium substrate boards are removed and inspected carefully. No obvious burns anywhere.

 

Looking forward to your input guys. I'm out of ideas.

Please replace both boards as I have mentioned earlier:

These are multi-layer circuit boards, therefore we are able to inspect these only with proper equipment. Hopefully the faulty electronic board did not damage the new one. This is why I recommended replacing both at the same time.

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1 hour ago, Wolverine said:

These are multi-layer circuit boards, therefore we are able to inspect these only with proper equipment. Hopefully the faulty electronic board did not damage the new one. This is why I recommended replacing both at the same time.

So true.. The new board may have died also. It seems it "works", but in reality it isn't. So better to buy both "new" :D  Or risk buying the second board and connecting - and not working again, because "first" new board also died.. 

Changing one kills other - vice versa.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sadly the z10 wont simply accept a replaced mobo, you need someone to reflash it with the old serial number or something. The new mobo sees that it's not paired with anything in the wheel and refuses to run.

Edited by osi
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13 hours ago, osi said:

Sadly the z10 wont simply accept a replaced mobo, you need someone to reflash it with the old serial number or something. The new mobo sees that it's not paired with anything in the wheel and refuses to run.

 

Then you so much my friend! I'll have to look into flashing it then...!

 

It is frustrating to be honest. So many issues.

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Yeah it's a real bummer support isn't available and they make it hard to fix stuff.

I think you have a real good chance of repairing the old board though, if it's just that one component that's fried. Do you know how to solder or have friends that do? Maybe even look for microsoldering and soldering electronics repair services (3rd party apple shops can do this sometimes). You can bring them old board and new board, and they can either find a replacement component for a few cents or swap over the component from the new board.

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The problem isn't so much replacing the component in terms of soldering, it's getting the right replacement in the first place. With no markings to go on it would be difficult to source to say the least.

It's the reason I had to replace a whole new Gotway BMS when all it had done was blow an onboard component. It was definitely either a fuse or a diode, and easy to replace, but without knowing what spec it was I had to bite the bullet. 

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6 hours ago, Planemo said:

The problem isn't so much replacing the component in terms of soldering, it's getting the right replacement in the first place. With no markings to go on it would be difficult to source to say the least.

It's the reason I had to replace a whole new Gotway BMS when all it had done was blow an onboard component. It was definitely either a fuse or a diode, and easy to replace, but without knowing what spec it was I had to bite the bullet. 

I agree with this mostly, but he did already purchase a replacement board which would let him directly replace the component. There are ways of identifying a components properties, especially if you have access to a working board.

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  • 4 months later...
  • 4 months later...

Hi everyone!

I am still in the same pickle. Being a doctor, I have been very busy with other things, but I would like to revive my wheel. I am still interested in ideas and advice.

So currently, I have bought new controller (the upper part, which had burnt), but I think I need to flash it with firmware (?not sure about that), plus I don't know how to do that, and on top of that I still need to activate its serial number, right?

Batteries were ok in summer voltage wise when I last checked them. I will recheck soon. Wheel is not powering on at all currently. (Was not even when I checked the batteries in summer). 

Please let me know of any thoughts.

 

Adam

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11 hours ago, DrAdam1986 said:

Hi everyone!

I am still in the same pickle. Being a doctor, I have been very busy with other things, but I would like to revive my wheel. I am still interested in ideas and advice.

So currently, I have bought new controller (the upper part, which had burnt), but I think I need to flash it with firmware (?not sure about that), plus I don't know how to do that, and on top of that I still need to activate its serial number, right?

Batteries were ok in summer voltage wise when I last checked them. I will recheck soon. Wheel is not powering on at all currently. (Was not even when I checked the batteries in summer). 

Please let me know of any thoughts.

 

Adam

I would contact @MRN76 and ask if he can help. He doesn't check in here very often, so I would contact him on Telegram.

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@litewave

Thanks for the tip mate! I think that I am just one step behind needing that guys help. 

Thank god for @osi, who has privately texted me yesterday and he's been helping me loads since!

So we found out that one of my battery packs was dead as in over discharged. I found this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeWERDpRPmk with which I managed to actually reactivate that battery pack and revive it fully. Both packs are now 52V!

My current problem is that I have changed the motherboard (top part), and I have tried 3x of them actually (1st my fried one, 2nd I bought a replacement in summer, 3rd accidentally got the same one while I intended to buy the bottom part.) From all these mobos I suppose the 2nd and 3rd have no firmware on, so I am not sure what behaviour I should expect.

So, even though the battery side of the Z10 is properly on with 2 red constant led lights, and on the mobo side everything is connected properly, and both boards look fine and well (no burnt components), nothing turns on, when I push the power button. No lights, no sounds nothing.

Any ideas?

 

@Jollyonatron I have read eslewhere on this forum that you are quite knowledgable about repairs with this EUC. Could you please kindly advise?


Thank you all in advance guys. 

Edited by DrAdam1986
to add Jollyonatron on
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Small update. 

While everything is connected as I described on my last post. I have put it on charge to trial pressing the power button and see whether there is any effect. 

As soon as I got it on charge I started getting this sound  and regular blinking red from the charger. I used to get this sound when charging the wheel up until yesterday when one of the 2 battery packs was overdischarged, but why would it do it now when the 2 batteries are properly charged to 52V? 

One more thing to mention, that charger sound and blinking was not there when I had disconnected the yellow connectors to revive the battery (I had let it charge via the white connectors only as the chinese video suggested). 

All this gives me the impression that when the yellow connectors are connected to the batteries, the boards (probably the lower one?) reads or does something wrong. Btw I measured the voltage directly on the batteries via the female yellow connectors with reading of 52V, and then on the motherboard where the 2x black and the 2x red cables are screwed and the voltage reading is 0.3V. I am not sure what to make of this. Thats some big discrepancy on the two sides of the wheel. 

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