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KS18XL > K66 80/80-14 / Bearing / Waterproofing


Funky

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  • Funky changed the title to KS18XL > K66 80/80-14 / Bearing / Waterproofing

Amazing job, as you know I've also installed a tubeless tire on my ks18 and I know what you're talking about concerning the work you need to put a motorbike tire in our euc rim :D
Perhaps, is this tire a tubeless or a tubed type ?

I can't wait your telling about the first riding experience :thumbup:

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K66 is only tubeless, i think. Used it with same 18x2.5 tube.

Yeah, maybe in 2 months ill update with riding experience. Or when snow melts bit..

Free spin it shakes less than original tire. Seems it wasn't centered.

In room riding at slow, slow speed it felt the same? xD

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  • 5 weeks later...

So today i did a ~11km ride. (Dam legs hurt as hell, after 3 months not riding..)

I'm going normally at 20-25kph speeds. Did test also at 35kph.

At 30psi (2bars) it was little to nimble.. Little more than CST C-1488 18x2.5 was at that tire pressure..

So i did the same, what i did on CST C-1488, i let little bit air out ~26psi (1.8bars). And then K66 felt the same as CST C-1488.

Okey, it was little more nimble, but then again i did not ride for 3 months. What can i say is that K66 and CST C-1488, they both act the same.

Speed wobble was worse on K66. As it's harder to control, but doable. (I bet it's harsher, because the tire has more rubber ~2x weight)

The GRIP is so much better, wet leaves, little bit snow, mud. It did not slip any time.  CST C-1488 was more slippery for sure!

At the end tire = tire, i'm keeping it. :) 

Edited by Funky
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Went for another "more aggressive" ride (More cornering) another ~10km.

Yeah wheel wants to wobble more at speed up.. But i bet it's more on mine lack of skill. ~130km ridden only.

Can't say anything bad about K66 tire. Alright.. 1 bad thing, it's more heavy, meaning my whole wheel is now 1kg heavier. :D 

Edited by Funky
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After more ridding i can recommend K66 80/80-14 tire for 18l/18xl. If you don't mind cutting sides. (Easy to cut.)

The tire should fit even none "Lifted" 18l/18xl euc. As it's whole outside diameter is 48cm right on mark.

Ridding backwards (against tire tread) tire sounds 2x louder.

If you want a solid tire, go get Heidenau K66.

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  • 3 months later...

Been putting some miles. What can i say about K66 80/80-14. It simply works and everything is fine. I don't get any wobbles anymore. Ride now mostly at 35-40kph (22-25mph).

Can do very, very tight turns on it, almost scraping pedals. (Don't forget i got lifted wheel case - pedals sit even higher.)

Simply great tire - no bullshit. And i ride 90% on pavement/asphalt.

Thinking about getting Heidenau K42 tire for winter riding and stud it. Will update "if" i get it someday. :D (Sides will need to be cut also, but should fit then.) That tire diameter should be 48.5-49cm.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't ride much. Have ridden maybe ~300km on K66. So can't say much about wear. But being M/C tire - i think you can get easy 6000-10.000km. (At least so i have heard from others.)

You also need to be mindful how/where you ride. Example: my dad also got 1488 and he has done 5000km already. The tire looks the same as first day.. So idk how you ride. :D 

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19 hours ago, Funky said:

I don't ride much. Have ridden maybe ~300km on K66. So can't say much about wear. But being M/C tire - i think you can get easy 6000-10.000km. (At least so i have heard from others.)

You also need to be mindful how/where you ride. Example: my dad also got 1488 and he has done 5000km already. The tire looks the same as first day.. So idk how you ride. :D 

Ride pretty Hard....  🤷😎

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  • 6 months later...
15 minutes ago, Steve Evans said:

@Funky this looks like a really useful guide. but unfortunately the image links are broken.

is that something you could fix?

many thanks,

steve

 

For me links work.. (One day it didn't work for me also.) Come back later, maybe then works again.. :D 

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2 minutes ago, Funky said:

For me links work.. (One day it didn't work for me also.) Come back later, maybe then works again.. :D 

damn... you are right. they are working now for me too. many thanks and sorry for the noise.

steve

 

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  • 6 months later...
1 hour ago, Milordas said:

congtars the Author, you get from 18"wheel 20" wheel Sherman's style with K66 :)

Actually 80/80-14 was about 0.5Cm bigger from original 47.5Cm to 48Cm K66.  (I think even 80/90-14 K66 should fit lifted 18xl, but very "tight" fit.. Almost no space from plastic.)

The 80/80-14 would have even fitted non-lifted 18xl. As it's only 0.5Cm bigger. (0.5Cm halved in tire diameter.. Meaning you need about ~0.3Cm extra space only from wheel well.) 

 

Also i'm gonna stud this K66 this winter and will order new one for next summer. Already got 160 studs put aside. At first snow i'm gonna stud it. No need to change tire this season. :D Drilling ~130holes and then pushing studs in will take some time..

Edited by Funky
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5 hours ago, Milordas said:

studs just make worse, good resin have ok'ish grip on ice.

Really? And how about this scenario - One day it been hotter and all not cleaned snow melts.. As people walk to train quit a lot, it gets many, many footprints pressed into.. Over night it gets quit cold and each footprint becomes like small ice hole. Do you think simple tire will have good enough grip on those "small ice holes"?

I mean literally 2km distance of small, small 1-2cm deep footprint holes all path way? Wheel goes up and down like if you where ridding on quit big rock/gravel road, but it's made of ice.

Yes - i have this type of ridding conditions. Also that packed down ice/snow don't get cleaned off, meaning it will be like that whole winter.

 

I think special black tipped metal studs are better than regular rubber tire? Or should i get the "Snowtex K66" tire made for winter and keep that on both summer and winter? Still no studs :unsure: How good can it be?

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7 hours ago, Funky said:

Really?

Absolutely not.

7 hours ago, Funky said:

Do you think simple tire will have good enough grip on those "small ice holes"?

Definitely not. Without studs it will be a nerve wrecking ride, and you need to take it reeaaaally slow. With studs I can ride those footprints pretty much as if they weren’t there. We have them too.

 One Christmas we were walking outside with our family. There was a huge spot of melted snow at an incline that had frozen again into a glacier. Then it had started melting again so it had a layer of water on top. The worst kind of grip you can imagine. I didn’t trust myself walking through that at all. So I hopped on my wheel with a studded tire and rode it up no problem. Zero slip. All others had big issues walking it up.

 

7 hours ago, Funky said:

Or should i get the "Snowtex K66" tire made for winter and keep that on both summer and winter? Still no studs :unsure: How good can it be?

Don’t buy the Snowtex one since you already have the regular. I didn’t feel any added grip on ice from the Snowtex K66 compared to the C-186 knobby. It was still just as nervous with the constant slipping. Enter studs on the C-186 though and I can ride through the winter at any weather and any surface as if I were riding on a gravel road in the summer. It’s a lovely, very unique feeling, as if you were skiing.

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5 hours ago, mrelwood said:

Absolutely not.

Definitely not. Without studs it will be a nerve wrecking ride, and you need to take it reeaaaally slow. With studs I can ride those footprints pretty much as if they weren’t there. We have them too.

 One Christmas we were walking outside with our family. There was a huge spot of melted snow at an incline that had frozen again into a glacier. Then it had started melting again so it had a layer of water on top. The worst kind of grip you can imagine. I didn’t trust myself walking through that at all. So I hopped on my wheel with a studded tire and rode it up no problem. Zero slip. All others had big issues walking it up.

 

Don’t buy the Snowtex one since you already have the regular. I didn’t feel any added grip on ice from the Snowtex K66 compared to the C-186 knobby. It was still just as nervous with the constant slipping. Enter studs on the C-186 though and I can ride through the winter at any weather and any surface as if I were riding on a gravel road in the summer. It’s a lovely, very unique feeling, as if you were skiing.

Down the road i had idea of getting new Snowtex version of tire and stud it. But if there is almost no difference in rubber. May stud the one i have already on wheel. And get new K66 same tire for summer. Will have 2x K66 one studded for winter and one for summer. 

Have you seen K42 tire from same brand? Maybe it would be much better "winter tire"?  If i cut it's sides (same as K66) - it also should fit 18xl. It has much bigger knobblies compared to K66, maybe better winter tire?

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9 hours ago, Funky said:

But if there is almost no difference in rubber.

To be clear, I haven’t compared the Snowtex directly to the same non-Snowtex version. Just that the Snowtex doesn’t have anywhere near sufficient grip in icy conditions.

9 hours ago, Funky said:

Have you seen K42 tire from same brand?

Photos only. It’s difficult to judge. It could work, but it could also be just horrible in turning. We just don’t know until someone tries it first.

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So I have a K66 snow tex and a regular one. 

The tire reseller explained the difference to me this way. 

The winter/snowtex performs better at low temperature but it wears out faster in summer time. There is only a marginal difference. But it could perform better in wet weather at lower temperature (above freezing). 

It you plan on buying  a K66 I would go for the snowtex version. But depending on when you buy it price can be almost the same or bigger to a regular one.

Both can be used all season. According to Danish reseller. And in Danmark we have icey condition in winter time. Not so much snow as some decades ago but each winter there is snow all over. 

But it is not to be compared to a stunted tire. 

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On 7/13/2022 at 10:39 PM, Funky said:

I don't ride much. Have ridden maybe ~300km on K66. So can't say much about wear. But being M/C tire - i think you can get easy 6000-10.000km. (At least so i have heard from others.)

You also need to be mindful how/where you ride. Example: my dad also got 1488 and he has done 5000km already. The tire looks the same as first day.. So idk how you ride. :D 

I can add in that a K66 tire need to be ridden to wear in/ fit right/ change feeling. Just like a new set of shoes. 

As for speed wobbles it tendt to help to stand duck feet and just a tiny bit further back on the pedals from my experience with my different wheels. Also the higher pedals from ground tends to give more risk of wobbles. 

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8 hours ago, Unventor said:

It you plan on buying  a K66 I would go for the snowtex version.

That’s not a bad idea especially if you plan to ride further into the autumn. I’ve been running the Snowtex for a few summers, and it’s holding up just fine. 

Edited by mrelwood
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