V12 Cutout tracking

[Tawpie]

This is an unfair question for those that rode their wheels on the V1 board after they knew there was a problem…

Would you do it again and take delivery or would you wait 6 months?

 

The reason I'm asking is I have an S22 on preorder, and it's looking like there is about a 10% or so failure rate of the motherboard. From what I've seen it looks to me like it happens after a torque stall followed by dropping the wheel, and I plan to do that at least a couple times per ride. I'm "this close" to cancelling the preorder and waiting until spring because such a failure, happening 15 miles down a dirt road and 5 miles into some single track, would be… annoying.

I'm kind of looking for "oh yes I would do it again, I wouldn't wait".

Edited August 8, 2022 by Tawpie

[Mars Bless]

15 minutes ago, techyiam said:

Nevertheless, the low speed high torque, and safe top speed cutout safe guards still stand. No other wheel come close.

I was only asking because I thought I missed something. Lol. 

And you are correct. I can appreciate the safeguards they have put in place. 

Looking forward to the official unveiling on the 11th. 

[techyiam]

8 minutes ago, Mars Bless said:

Looking forward to the official unveiling on the 11th.

For those of us who already have a fast wheel, and who are either contemplating, or wanting to get a safer wheel, or to reduce travel time even more, the V13 does look promising, and exciting. 

[myswapspace]

My V12HT cut out, but I don't think it matches the trouble description exactly... 

 

In any case, I could use a hand.

 

Here is about me and the wheel, it's only been in my possession for about a month.   

The unit has worked for 500 miles or so of average to light usage.   I am a new rider and I learned on this wheel.  It has certainly fallen over a few times, but never suffered any real tumbles or such.

Today, after a couple of shortish rides.. I took a break and when I went to ride again the V12 failed me right at the start. 

It had been turned on for almost 5 minutes, as I got my various phones connected to bluetooth and geared up.

When I did get up on my V12, I rolled a few feet, and leaned against my garage... then,  as I was just standing there on the wheel, it gave a verbal warning and shut down.. or "cut out".   I think it said "over power".  it was probably 60% full,   But when this happened, it had not been ridden in hours except for the few feet to the garage.    and at that time, I was truly just standing there, not stressing the wheel. 

Anyway, I think it's great to have a safety feature to cut out the wheel when there is a battery problem.  And I am grateful I was not pushing the wheel for speed or anything at that time as I bet I would have gotten hurt.   ( I am so sorry to hear/read the report above... Serious stuff. )

 

So, I am uninjured, but my wheel wont start.  

 

The wheel will spin, but it does feel sort of "engaged" as though it still has some motor resistance. 

 

I thought I read that holding the power button for 60 seconds would do it, but that has not helped.

 

So, I am hopeful that someone can tell me a hard reset procedure, and/or advise how I should proceed.

In short, how do I reset the wheel? 


Good thing I bought my wife a wheel so I can use hers while I work this out.  :-) 

Thanks in advance, I am truly addicted to this EUC and I want her back on the road.

 

 

[Tawpie]

Shoot. And HORRAY, you weren't injured.

I can't assist with the diagnosis, just glad you're ok. And that your wife will let you use her wheel!

If the original owner purchased the wheel from eWheels, the warranty will still be honored. I'd check with whomever sold it to you to find out if you have a dealer behind you...

Edited August 15, 2022 by Tawpie

[techyiam]

48 minutes ago, myswapspace said:

In any case, I could use a hand.

When you plug in your charger, does it charge properly? 

[myswapspace]

Thanks all, I am the original owner, and I bought the V12HT from Euco.us   

And when I plug in the charger, it makes a thumping noise like the wheel wants to move...  I only left it like that for a second and unplugged it as soon as I noticed the failure to boot.

When I did try to plug it into the charger, the charger made its usual "pop" noise.  The charger was already plugged into the outlet as it always is. 

I had hoped that would reset the wheel, but no.  :-(

 

And yes, I am glad I had was not hurt, and glad to have bought the V8F.  but as my wife has learned so well, she will soon want to have her wheel back.   I guess I was too good a teacher.  ;-)

 

Thanks all for your help so far, I will let folks know how Euco.us does with this.   If they do nothing, I will still want to know how to proceed to attempt repair myself.

 

:-)

 

 

[adrianqbs]

On 7/21/2022 at 5:26 PM, adrianqbs said:

 

Hey All,

 

THE SAGA CONTINUES

After sending all the boards back, Inmotion sent over a control board with pre-installed to the heatsink with the clear top cover.

UNFORTUNATELY, it would seem that the motherboards are not in stock and will have to be sent over later, at a date yet uncertain. This is looking like it will take a very very long time to resolve.

Hi everyone!! Thanks for all the support and advice.

Hopefully, this will be the final update on my V12. 

The missing board was finally delivered yesterday and installed. Everything seems to be working normally now. Took the wheel on an about 20km ride, including our local 'overheat hill'.

Nothing untoward. Board temps peaked around 60-ish °C. MOS temps peaked at 96°C, but the temperatures dropped very very quickly.

Will continue to take the wheel on a few more shorter rides before going on a more straining long ride on the mountain roads.

[Jumaxas]

How can I tell if the V12HT comes with new MOSFETS or the old, intact EUCs? Serial number, soft version or other ? I'm planning to buy, but I'm afraid of being scammed.... 

[Rawnei]

1 hour ago, Jumaxas said:

How can I tell if the V12HT comes with new MOSFETS or the old, intact EUCs? Serial number, soft version or other ? I'm planning to buy, but I'm afraid of being scammed.... 

As far as I know the only way is to open up and look at the mosfets, not optimal at all, if you get serial # maybe Inmotion can confirm for you.

[Paradox]

Just now, Rawnei said:

As far as I know the only way is to open up and look at the mosfets, not optimal at all, if you get serial # maybe Inmotion can confirm for you.

I thought all  HT's came with the new board with the better mosfets?

[techyiam]

1 hour ago, Jumaxas said:

How can I tell if the V12HT comes with new MOSFETS or the old, intact EUCs? Serial number, soft version or other ? I'm planning to buy, but I'm afraid of being scammed.... 

The V12HT came out after V12HS. The warranty replacement driver board only applies to the V12HS.

The V12HT uses a new driver board that is not the same as the original V12HS driver board. The mosfets on the V12HT are physically bigger, and electronically more stout than those on the V12HS driver board. 

[meepmeepmayer]

@JumaxasLike the post before me says, the V12 HT board was never in question, and is a different (stronger) board. Just upgrade to the latest firmware once you have your V12 HT, then you are good.

[Rawnei]

1 hour ago, Paradox said:

I thought all  HT's came with the new board with the better mosfets?

You're right, I read it too fast. 👍

[Paul g]

I just changed the driver board on my v12S. I press the ON button, but nothing happens. When I plug the charger I hear a spark. I didn’t hear that before. Does anybody has any idea what could be the cause? 

Edited August 16, 2022 by Paul g

[Rawnei]

57 minutes ago, Paul g said:

I just changed the driver board on my v12S. I press the ON button, but nothing happens. When I plug the charger I hear a spark. I didn’t hear that before. Does anybody has any idea what could be the cause? 

Loose cables? I get spark on V12 if charger has power before plugging in, usually other way around on other wheels.

[Paul g]

1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

Loose cables? I get spark on V12 if charger has power before plugging in, usually other way around on other wheels.

Well, the recommended procedure is to plug first the charger in the mains and then plug the other end in to the wheel. I don’t know other way. So you get that spark as well?

[techyiam]

1 hour ago, Paul g said:

Well, the recommended procedure is to plug first the charger in the mains and then plug the other end in to the wheel. I don’t know other way. So you get that spark as well?

On my V12,  more than 99% of the time, I plug into the wheel first.

Plug in AC first              sometimes sparks.

Plug into wheel first      never sparks.

 

On my Begode T3      

Plug in AC first             no spark

Plug into wheel first     always sparks

Edited August 16, 2022 by techyiam

[myswapspace]

On 8/14/2022 at 9:19 PM, myswapspace said:

My V12HT cut out, but I don't think it matches the trouble description exactly... 

 

In any case, I could use a hand.

 

Here is about me and the wheel, it's only been in my possession for about a month.   

The unit has worked for 500 miles or so of average to light usage.   I am a new rider and I learned on this wheel.  It has certainly fallen over a few times, but never suffered any real tumbles or such.

Today, after a couple of shortish rides.. I took a break and when I went to ride again the V12 failed me right at the start. 

It had been turned on for almost 5 minutes, as I got my various phones connected to bluetooth and geared up.

When I did get up on my V12, I rolled a few feet, and leaned against my garage... then,  as I was just standing there on the wheel, it gave a verbal warning and shut down.. or "cut out".   I think it said "over power".  it was probably 60% full,   But when this happened, it had not been ridden in hours except for the few feet to the garage.    and at that time, I was truly just standing there, not stressing the wheel. 

Anyway, I think it's great to have a safety feature to cut out the wheel when there is a battery problem.  And I am grateful I was not pushing the wheel for speed or anything at that time as I bet I would have gotten hurt.   ( I am so sorry to hear/read the report above... Serious stuff. )

 

So, I am uninjured, but my wheel wont start.  

 

The wheel will spin, but it does feel sort of "engaged" as though it still has some motor resistance. 

 

I thought I read that holding the power button for 60 seconds would do it, but that has not helped.

 

So, I am hopeful that someone can tell me a hard reset procedure, and/or advise how I should proceed.

In short, how do I reset the wheel? 


Good thing I bought my wife a wheel so I can use hers while I work this out.  :-) 

Thanks in advance, I am truly addicted to this EUC and I want her back on the road.

 

 

-=-=-=-=-=-=-

 

So, here is what has happened relating my my cutout and bricked V12HT.

 

In short, I had some email back and forth with Euco.us the company I bought through.  

 

They decided it was a bad board, and offered to replace it for me or ship the board to me for me to perform the work.

Obviously I would have needed to pay shipping, and wait for it to make it through their queue before waiting for them to ship her back.

 

I am a handy guy and need to take responsibility for the care of this machine, so I suppose I should do the work.

Plus, it seems the fastest way to get back on the road.   :-)

 

I think I saw that servicing the V12 is a bear.  I hate that fussy stuff, but I can do it.  Nonetheless, I would love any tips or advice about opening her up etc.. 

 

Thanks again all.   I hope I will be rolling again soon.

 

 

[adrianqbs]

3 hours ago, Paul g said:

Well, the recommended procedure is to plug first the charger in the mains and then plug the other end in to the wheel. I don’t know other way. So you get that spark as well?

Hi there!! 

This happened to me as well!! But only only, the very first time I put the wheel to charge after putting humpty back together. After that, it was all OK. 

During the first time, I had plugged the charger in and turned on the mains as well. 

Although... 

With the Begode wheels (even up to the master), because the charging ports or 'live', it would be necessary to have the charger on before attempting to plug the charger in. Otherwise, it will cause a spark and in the worst case, even a short circuit. 

With Inmotion wheels, the ports are supposed to be protected and it shouldn't matter whether the charger is on or off, whether a knife was stuck between the pins, water gets into the port. 

 

That's why the dealer and I were really puzzled when we heard the first spark. But it didn't happen again, so 🤷🤷

[Paul g]

@Rawnei, @techyiam and @adrianqbs thanks very much for input. The InMotion wheels were hailed on Youtube by Adam Wrong Way as not making sparks. I plugged in twice after changing the board and both times had a spark. I hope is OK, because I will try to charge the batteries. For the moment I have no response when I press the ON button, so maybe the problem is the dead battery. 

Edited August 17, 2022 by Paul g

[Paul g]

18 hours ago, myswapspace said:

 

Watch youtube: euc upgrades, eevee’s V12 board replacement.

A harder reset than reset: hammer it well on all sides- not recommended!  

[Paul g]

Quick update: I’ve force charged the V12 several times and managed to turn it on. It only stays on for several seconds and then turns off. While on it gives a warning signal followed by a “Please…” probably from “Please repair!”, it keeps repeating it self. A warning exclamation sign also shows, and tapping it reveals more details: “Fault

The battery failed, you may need to replace the battery.

The main voltage sensor failed, you may need to replace driver board.

Please contact your point of purchase or email to us: service@imscv.com

Warning

Warning by the too-low voltage, please recharge as soon as possible to avoid damaging the battery.

Warning by low battery, please recharge as soon as possible.”

I don’t know why it repeats the message about the battery, it is probably some warning message that was initially there, then they added a more detailed one with too low voltage, but forgot to delete the older one. Any way, I can’t charge it since the wheel turns off the charger (the charger light turns red).

edit: I’ve contacted the seller and the seller contacted InMotion. Though I’ve sent them all the details and described the behaviour and the messages of the wheel, they told me to recharge the wheel, which is funny, or worrisome, since it shows how well they read what I’m telling them. I have no idea if I will ever ride this wheel. The prospects look more and more grim.

Edited August 27, 2022 by Paul g

[Paul g]

Bradley: “ We have to replace the controller, then we have to get InMotion to do a remote calibration, if that doesn’t work, is more issues with it, we need to replace the battery, and we replace the battery, then we need to do a calibration(…) We actually have to wait for InMotion to wake up in China”[to do the calibration remotely from there] -and this is why I will never buy an InMotion wheel again! I don’t need this crap! Just how the hell am I suppose to be able to repair my V12? 

[mlau]

Good Day,

Last weeked I crashed my V12(HS) at 43km/h in what feels to me like the cutouts that are described here.  At least I can't find another explanation:

I was travelling on level paved road, no bumps, holes or other obstacles on it, going 43km/h (while slowly decelerating from ~50), and without any warning I was thrown off.

Wheel is newest batch (delivered  end of July 2022), with the updated driver board already.  (166km total, 60% battery at crash, fancy+offroad mode, it still works fine, but in the crash the rim was damaged pretty hard).

I had wheellog logging the trip, and at the time of the crash, the sensor data says that I was suddenly leaning forward 10 degress as was going 90km/h (from 43 to 90 in 0.4seconds!) of course it then decided it cannot keep this state up and shut down power to motor.  It's a bit like the crashes that the youtube channel "WrongWay" experienced, but I landed on my face instead.

Safe trips,

   mlau

 

EDIT: to clarify, I wasn't actively braking, just going along to road, and speed decreased while riding.    Split mode was off.

Edited August 30, 2022 by mlau
clarifications