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GotWay Mten (gearless) factory tire problem?


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I received my Mten with a flat tire.

Ok, just pump and drive.

But a week later there was no air left.

So I pumped it yesterday again and today again: No air left.

I am not 100 sure is there a inner tube or not?

 

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I had something similar with my wheel. It sounds like a slow leak, either a small hole in the tube or a leak in the valve seat. To check the valve you can put some soapy water in the valve and see if it bubbles. (I just put some spit in it since that is always available.  :rolleyes: ) If it's the tube you'll need to take it apart and patch the tube. A bicycle tube patch kit will work fine.

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Although the tyres say tubeless I'm pretty sure they have tubes in them because I've never seen or heard of an angled tubeless valve.

 

Yeah I noticed it says "tubeless" too.  You really think it's actually tubed?  Is there an easy way to find out?  That said, the Mten1 (geared) had a much better tire (ride-wise)

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Just let the air out of the tyre and then grab the valve and see if it pushes into the wheel easily.

Tubeless valves need a tool to set them in place and won't push in at all.

That's why they normally rip them on through with the same tool or cut them off when they change your car tyre.

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check the tire,just like check the bicycle's tire, fulfill the tire,put into water ~~Good luck

Unfortunately putting the tube in water to find the hole does require removing the tube first which means you have to split the case, this isn't as easy on the M10 as it is on some wheels. It's not that difficult but more complex than some and a lot of people would prefer to avoid it if at all possible.

As an alternative if there is not an obvious visual problem on the outside of the tyre you could try putting one of the preventative tyre sealants into the tube. Slime as some people recommend or Oko as I use should seal any existing puncture and prevent further ones.

It doesn't work on splits but if you had one of those the tyre wouldn't blow up in the first place.

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Most eucs are awkward to connect a pump to despite using an angled version of a standard car type tyre valve.

I happen to have a small compressor that came with a tyre pump fitting with a straight connector which I've found works quite well, although I have lost all the air I'd just pumped in on a couple of occasions due to not disconnecting cleanly and quickly. :)

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So, now I did ask first Jane Mo from GotWay, but wrong answer from her!

I am not so sure is GotWay or Jane Mo the problem, but this is just ridiculous.

I asked her if the Mten Gen2 has a inner tube and her answer was yes.

BUT, there is NO inner tube at all!

So, not I have to check if the tire by self has a problem or the rim does not contact well to the tire.

 

Again: At my Mten Gen2 is no inner tube!

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That does surprise me! As I've said I've never seen an angled tubeless tyre valve and tubeless tyres are often used with tubes.

In a way it's better as Slime and Oko type products actually work better on tubeless tyres! :)

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Just cross your fingers and hope she's got that right Shady Tools. my M18 and M10 were both supposed to be white carbon, confirmed at the time of dispatch, quite a surprise when I open the boxes and found black.

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Typical of cottage industry work methods. That's why you see a new branded wheel almost every other week. Every one and their brother is making one and throw it in the market. Some stick some don't. What's disappointing is even name brands don't get it right.  Loose nuts, firmware update disasters, wobbling wheels, fried circuit boards on day 2, lack of customer support etc,. Basically lack of QC. Only Solowheels don't have that many complaints. That explains high price I guess. My 2 cents again.

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I still do not get my tire fixed.

Can not find where the air is leaving.

I did some silicon spray at the rim and cleaned the contact rim/tire, now it is less fast then befor, but still out after 24 hours or so.

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Have you tried putting some Slime or Oko sealant into it yet?

With tubeless bike tyres a sealant is normally a requirement and I'm surprised that the M10 tyre seems to be fitted dry.

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I use the same method to detect gas leak to find leaks in my tubeless road tires on my bike.  There are a few major reasons for tubeless leaks:

 

  • puncture in tire
  • leak around rim bead
  • leak at valve stem

 

I fill the tire to the max psi. usuallly 50-80psi.  I fill a spray bottle with soapy water around the  seam on each side and watch for bubbles.  If you lay the tire flat, you do not need to dismount the tire as the soapy liquid will form a bead around the rim to detect leaks.  For the valve, take off the cap and spray there as well.  Look for leaks.  Spray the tread and sidewall and watch for pinholes. 

 

For me, it was sadly none of these and involved a cracked case on the hub from a nearly invisible hairline crack.  Hope you get a resolution.  In looking at the wheel, you can always just buy an inner tube, pull out the valve, and reuse the valve hole to feed the inner tube fill valve.  That's what I had to do for my cracked case, revert to tube.  FYI, might be a faster fix if you can't figure it out.

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If the crack in your hub is not major enough for you to scrap it and replace you could try sealing it with epoxy resin.

It would strengthen the crack and make it air tight at the same time. :)

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I found the leak.

It is beetwen the rim and the tire on the side and just where the valve is.

I tried arround 1 hour to clean and polish the rim inside and also to clean the tire from factory debris of drilling the valve hole (greetings from QC); Maybe now it will loose not longer any air...maybe.

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