Jason McNeil Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 11 minutes ago, WakefulTraveller said: plus it will take less time to charge The right way to think of battery capacity is like a gas tank, you don't have top up your 85 gallon Humvee equivalent Wheel to take her out for a ride Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
US69 Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 18 minutes ago, WakefulTraveller said: I'm thinking that the 680wh is overkill, when the 520wh will be just as good (aside from the range) and plus it will take less time to charge. The reason that I'm considering a custom battery pack is save on cost, possibly to buy the battery pack at a later date, and to have more optimal batteries (rapid discharge / recharge?). To buy a 520 wh Version is 2 packs with 32 cells on each Side....Same As 680wh! So there is no more Space for puting more.... if you think about "upgrading" you should buy a 340wh version(1 pack 32 Cells) and can later put on a 418wh pack to it...on The other Side of The Wheel... like i Said above...a "later" 418wh pack is -for me- cheaper than buy directly 340plus340... but you Need to Know where to get this "later" packs ... sorry for for my english and: to take 520 instead of 680 because of Charge Time....sorry...thats 20-30 Minute difference... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WakefulTraveller Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 @KingSong69 I'm thinking of doing that but to start off with the 240WH battery pack instead. That is unless there's a reason to go with the Panasonic batteries besides the higher capacity. edit: Okay, so maybe the Panasonic batteries would be better for energy throughput. Now I just want someone to confirm that different battery packs will work together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowMo Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 56 minutes ago, WakefulTraveller said: I'm thinking that the 680wh is overkill, when the 520wh will be just as good (aside from the range) and plus it will take less time to charge. The reason that I'm considering a custom battery pack is save on cost, possibly to buy the battery pack at a later date, and to have more optimal batteries (rapid discharge / recharge?). There will be a disparity of the useful life of the battery packs once you decide to upgrade since you have used the original pack for quite some time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
US69 Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 @WakefulTraveller i am a beginner, also.... i just can give you The advice to get As much Batterie power As possible!!! difference between a 340 and 260 otherwise As Range is also Safety... You have more reserves for extrem Braking and acceleration...The 32 Cells you will have Are just better!!! i have a 340wh and will Upgrade to 680 As soon As possible.... its Not that i don't reach work and get back with The 340...but on The way Home with only 30-40percent left...i get a Little more conservative with speeding! and As it is The Mist Fun to Speed without thoughts....i am upgrading now :-) dont save some Bucks on Batterie! It's a good thought to Upgrade later from 1 to 2 packs! just to See if a EU is right for you! But it's a Bad thought to Save Money on The amperehours of this 1 pack... my 2 Cents... and this is just more true As i don't Know The "extrem low Batterie" behavior of a MCM4.... cutout or Pedal Rise? I don't know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 4 hours ago, WakefulTraveller said: So would the 2200 ma (mAH?) Sony battery be better than the 2900ma Panasonic battery because of the faster charge times when it comes to lower mAh batteries? Would this mean a longer expected life span of the Sony battery pack? I have trouble seeing it as worth it to get a custom battery pack for the MCM4. I imagine that with everything considered it would be notably more expensive and troublesome. There are many factors that contribute to how "good" the pack is, of course the types and capacities of the cells is a very important matter in the whole picture. And yes, getting custom packs can be both expensive and troublesome (well, in my case it was, partially due to my own fault ). If you live in EU or especially Germany, @1RadWerkstatt can build a high quality battery for you (I would have ordered from them myself, had I known of their existence when I started planning getting my custom packs). 4 hours ago, Jason McNeil said: It's not the charge time in min/hrs that matter but the current (Amps) that's important. Beside our resident wizard @esaj, I'm not certain anyone has had success in building their own battery pack. It's quite an undertaking, probably better off sourcing from a distributor or manufacturer. I didn't actually build the pack myself, but ordered it custom-made from a company that usually builds packs for scuba-diving gear (underwater scooters, diving lamps etc) from 18650-cells. But there are a few people in these forums who have done their own packs from separate cells, if memory serves, someone of them actually built their own spot-welding machine for the purpose . While basically it's a "simple" matter of getting the cells & BMS, wiring the balancing-, discharge- & charge-wires to the BMS, and wrapping up, great care must be taken not to overheat the cells, and the connecting strips should be preferably spot-welded, not just soldered, so they don't come off during physical shocks and such. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nevin@Tec-toyz.com Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 On April 3, 2016 at 5:26 AM, Dr Bob said: Today my friend who tested my batteries and myself made a euc dyno from bicycle stationary trainer. they lock on the back wheel of bike and ride on the spot type. You can adjust load and it has tacho, odometer and speedometer on it. We changed the static magnetic resistance to electric, my friend not me and we made 2 brackets that swivel and attach to the footboards, brackets have speed turnbuckles to hold wheel in place firmly, also we added 4 roller blade wheels, 2 to support wheel with main roller and 1 on each side to keep it running straight, a must to get genuine figures from my many years dyno tuning motorcycles. So euc is held firmly by trainer, but you can tilt euc forward and backwards. This is much cheaper that treadmill as well as much safer as wheel can go no where. I will post some pic's of it over the next week and details on how to make the same. Cost for me to make was $45aus all up and about 50 minutes of my time. My friend who is RC expert is finding software so we can obtain data about hp, watts etc like a normal dyno, this I will also post with pic's and how to make when it is sorted. Right on, I'd love to see some video of this in action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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