Is this normal for 1.3.5?

[Vanquiz]

@SuperSportI mean when it's turned on, and I just barely hold it to keep it from falling to the sides, without the trolley, it will stay still, but with the trolley I guess it's heavier on the front and makes the bot keep crawling forward. 

I don't think it's a big deal, but I thought if calibration helps with the new heavier front weight balance.  Guess I need to put something extra on the rear like brake light or something to bring the balance back. 

[SuperSport]

6 minutes ago, Vanquiz said:

Guess I need to put something extra on the rear like brake light or something to bring the balance back.

As far as I understand it, that's all you could do.  The forward movement is as it is designed to do when weight is transferred forward.

[Vanquiz]

@SuperSportI did, I put 2 giant spiders on the rear, but it's not enough, lol. 

[Vik's]

@SuperSport You're welcome - I know you'd do the same for us. Should we put it in f.a.q. or pin it somehow?

@Vanquiz I got almost same effect when I attached trolley bar to 9b1, not as strong as you describing. but it's definitely there. I dropped the stand though as it seems too unstable to be useful.

[SuperSport]

UPDATE:  I just took my NineBot for a ride.  I'm surprised how much difference it made just correcting those 4-5 degrees.  Now, when I turn, both pedals tilt the same amount.  Before, turning right tilted forward more than turning left, now it's even.

I wonder if this would correct the large amount of difference @Jdestef was experiencing if it was done the correct way.

[dmethvin]

Get some scrap wood (I used some 2x4 studs) and put it under each pedal support so that the wheel is off the ground. Shim one side or the other to get it level if you need. For the forward/backward level use a wall (or pole) to support it on one side. That way when you turn it on you can keep it level just by pushing down/over firmly and the wheel will spin until the calibration process is done. I just finished doing it this way for my Firewheel, here's a picture of how I set it up. I should have gotten a video but when you're doing this stuff your hands are pretty full between holding the wheel and checking the level constantly. 

[Jdestef]

On 2/24/2016 at 6:10 AM, Vik's said:

I think the manual calibration had a few other steps involved.

From Ninebot:

1.Take the Ninebot One vertically off the groud. Take care and keep it steady.
2.press power button and the wheel will spin strongly,hold it steady.
3.when you hear a sound of warning(di,di,di) and the leds flashing red, - press the power button and keep holding the button until the warning disapear.
4. long press again and keep holding the power button till you hear the Ninebot to warning again.
5. Release the power button, and you will see a flash of yellow light which meaning your Ninebot is carlibrating.
6. you will hear the warning(di,di,di) with red flashing again - that means your calibration is finished,and the Ninebot telling you that it is off the ground which is not a good idea. So put your Ninebot on the ground and see if your it is right calibrated now.

Going to try this first thing tonight after work. I'll let you know how it goes. 

[SuperSport]

Just added a Video to Demo how to do this:  

 

[Jdestef]

The new procedures fixed my Ninebot. I owe u a drink homie.

 

I actually had to do the procedure 3x. My roll angle was +29!!!

[SuperSport]

13 minutes ago, Jdestef said:

I actually had to do the procedure 3x. My roll angle was +29!!!

DANG!!!  I'm surprised you were able to ride it at all!  Congrats!  Thanks to @Vik's for the method.  I only put it to video.

On a side note:  That much roll angle would possibly cause a Motor Cut Out on a sharp right turns.  Given that the bot shuts of at 45 degrees, that's only 16 available degrees to work with.

[Jdestef]

14 minutes ago, SuperSport said:

DANG!!!  I'm surprised you were able to ride it at all!  Congrats!  Thanks to @Vik's for the method.  I only put it to video.

On a side note:  That much roll angle would possibly cause a Motor Cut Out on a sharp right turns.  Given that the bot shuts of at 45 degrees, that's only 16 available degrees to work with.

Yeah I wasn't riding the unit. I considered the down tilt too extreme/dangerous to use the unit as a daily driver.

[SuperSport]

3 minutes ago, Jdestef said:

Yeah I wasn't riding the unit. I considered the down tilt too extreme/dangerous to use the unit as a daily driver.

That's even more awesome it's working again.  Thanks for letting us know.

[SuperSport]

@Jdestef  Now that you have your wheel calibrated, how does it compare to the older firmware?  You are the only one I know of that has both firmware's, so you can do a TRUE comparison.  I really like 1.3.5, but wonder what you think now that it rides correctly.

[Jdestef]

On 2/26/2016 at 8:25 PM, SuperSport said:

@Jdestef  Now that you have your wheel calibrated, how does it compare to the older firmware?  You are the only one I know of that has both firmware's, so you can do a TRUE comparison.  I really like 1.3.5, but wonder what you think now that it rides correctly.

I spent about an hour today alternating between my 1.2.2 and 1.3.5 units to try to distinguish the main differences.  I pumped both units to 40psi and both had a good charge. One thing that complicates this right off the bat is the fact the 1.3.5 unit has a different tire. I forget the brand, but its the tire that has a little bit of a flare on the sides and the tire itself is pretty new.  The 1.2.2 unit has a pretty standard tire. No special characteristics.

From what I could detect, there are 2 differences between the 1.2.2 and 1.3.5.

The first, and I think this is attributed to the tire, is how the unit tends to want to force me upright when coming out of turns, I reallly have to deliberately lean into turns and fight it to keep from wanting to stand itself upright all the way thru the turn. I think this is because of the flare on the tire resisting the bank/angle.

The second is that the pedals on the 1.3.5 tend to tilt slightly back when going into a turn.  Are they actually tilting back or are they just not tilting *forward* like the 1.2.2? I don't know, I just know that I don't feel the risk of catching the pedals on something *as much* on the 1.3.5 unit as I do the 1.2.2 unit. The 1.2.2 is much more likely to scrape the front part of the pedals as you enter a tighter turn.  On the 1.3.5, during purposefully tight turns, the pedal scraping is centered maybe an inch / inch and a half farther back from the outer corner of the pedals than the 1.2.2.  I scrape the crap out of my 1.2.2 pedals and the majority of the wear is right up on the corners. 

Beyond that, I don't notice any significant differences. 

@SuperSport If there's something you want me to compare specifically, let me know.

[Vik's]

@Jdestef Same "ride setting" on both 9b1's?

[SuperSport]

3 hours ago, Jdestef said:

@SuperSport If there's something you want me to compare specifically, let me know.

Actually, what you've described is about what I was expecting.  The pedals are much more level on 1.3.5 during turns.  I noticed that too, even coming from 1.3.0.

I would also suspect the turning difference is due to the tire.  I know on motorcycles, they make a world of difference on turning, so a single wheel is bound to exaggerate that even more.

If you run them both a distance, you should also notice a longer battery life on 1.3.5 compared to the older.  To me, 1.3.5 also felt a LOT smoother in the motor when just riding.  1.3.0 had a very slight motor buzz feeling, and 1.3.5 feels silky smooth.

[Jdestef]

6 hours ago, Vik's said:

@Jdestef Same "ride setting" on both 9b1's?

Yep. I like my wheels pretty stiff; I start at 1 and increase until the "hum" goes away. Usually around 2 or 3. My 1.3.5 wheel nearly shook itself to death (it wasn't on 1.3.5 at the time) awhile back when it started to hum and the hum started slowly getting more intense until it the unit was shaking so hard it looked blurry. It was a trip.  Now I don't even risk it and I keep the slack no less than 2. 

 

Sry if this is a repost but it's funny to watch. 

 

[esaj]

57 minutes ago, Jdestef said:

Yep. I like my wheels pretty stiff; I start at 1 and increase until the "hum" goes away. Usually around 2 or 3. My 1.3.5 wheel nearly shook itself to death (it wasn't on 1.3.5 at the time) awhile back when it started to hum and the hum started slowly getting more intense until it the unit was shaking so hard it looked blurry. It was a trip.  Now I don't even risk it and I keep the slack no less than 2. 

 

Sry if this is a repost but it's funny to watch. 

 

That looks like my self-balancing robot with the PID-loop overshooting the balancing corrections

 

[SuperSport]

2 hours ago, Jdestef said:

Yep. I like my wheels pretty stiff; I start at 1 and increase until the "hum" goes away. Usually around 2 or 3. My 1.3.5 wheel nearly shook itself to death (it wasn't on 1.3.5 at the time) awhile back when it started to hum and the hum started slowly getting more intense until it the unit was shaking so hard it looked blurry. It was a trip.  Now I don't even risk it and I keep the slack no less than 2. 

 

Sry if this is a repost but it's funny to watch. 

 

I believe that could be a loose Motherboard inside.  I read about that happening to someone else on the forums and his board was loose.

[steve454]

On 2/24/2016 at 5:10 AM, Vik's said:

I think the manual calibration had a few other steps involved.

From Ninebot:

1.Take the Ninebot One vertically off the groud. Take care and keep it steady.
2.press power button and the wheel will spin strongly,hold it steady.
3.when you hear a sound of warning(di,di,di) and the leds flashing red, - press the power button and keep holding the button until the warning disapear.
4. long press again and keep holding the power button till you hear the Ninebot to warning again.
5. Release the power button, and you will see a flash of yellow light which meaning your Ninebot is carlibrating.
6. you will hear the warning(di,di,di) with red flashing again - that means your calibration is finished,and the Ninebot telling you that it is off the ground which is not a good idea. So put your Ninebot on the ground and see if your it is right calibrated now.

@Vik's this is very interesting, do you know of any other tricks like this?  @Tilmann recently posted a video of the new Tesla car having an easter egg in the software that turns on a light and music show that also opens the doors in certain ways.  I wonder if our wheels have easter eggs that few know about, like the manual calibration.  

@Hunka Hunka Burning Love have you used your P.I. sleuthing skills on this?

[steve454]

Update: today I did the manual calibration for the first time, holding the ninebot between my legs as @SuperSport showed in his video, the first time it had a large forward tilt which was not good at all, so did it again trying to put a little more upward tilt in it, this resulted in the same thing supersport describes as like a permanent tiltback, no good either, so I stopped on the bike trail and did the app calibration and ended up with a slight upward tilt which feels pretty good.  I could never get the pedals tilted up a little with the app calibration alone so this is good and I will ride it this way some more tomorrow.

I'm thinking that instead of holding it with the legs, it would be better in some kind of stand so you could see exactly how much tilt is in the pedals, also I could not see the lights flashing red and yellow, had to go by the sound cues alone, but that was no problem, they are clearly described in the instructions.

All in all it is a good thing to be able to do.

[SuperSport]

4 hours ago, steve454 said:

I'm thinking that instead of holding it with the legs, it would be better in some kind of stand so you could see exactly how much tilt is in the pedals, also I could not see the lights flashing red and yellow, had to go by the sound cues alone, but that was no problem, they are clearly described in the instructions.

I also think a stand of sorts would be a good idea.  Easier to hold, and less chance of getting your pant leg tied up in the tire!!! 

[MaxLinux]

On 2/24/2016 at 1:39 PM, SuperSport said:

The stand alone is NOT steady enough.  Stupid Design.

I find that kind of stand works better for 14 inch wheels. You might want to try a guitar stand for better stability with your 16-incher.

 

https://www.amazon.com/ChromaCast-CC-MINIGS-Universal-Folding-Guitar/dp/B00BU9KCXK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482726508&sr=8-2&keywords=chromacast%2Bguitar%2Bstand&th=1

 

[Hunka Hunka Burning Love]

18 hours ago, steve454 said:

I wonder if our wheels have easter eggs that few know about, like the manual calibration.  

@Hunka Hunka Burning Love have you used your P.I. sleuthing skills on this?

All I know is that @SuperSport is the expert on NBOne calibration!  I actually have never calibrated mine as it rides pretty level all the time except when it tilts back.  Maybe crashing it might throw off the factory set calibration?  I don't know as I have never crashed mine.  I did have it spin out once accidentally when I came to a stop, but I caught it pretty quickly.

I miss riding it with all this snow around.     

[SuperSport]

1 hour ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

I miss riding it with all this snow around.  

What I learned today...

Don't let the snow stop you!  ?