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NK+ 2700 wobbly wheel?


No1up

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I have never found a wobbly wheel, only wobbly people................ Sorry but true. 
It is all about learning the wheel. Each wheel has a frequency. It is your job to keep from amplifying that frequently. Foot position can make a difference. Learning to carve has a way of reducing wobbles. wobbles are a feedback loop. You can stop them or amplify them. 
The S18 is not an easy wheel to learn on ......and switching from the S18 to another wheel might be a challenge. It should be easy enough but it will take a few days or a week to adjust. 
 

Edited by RockyTop
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It took me a couple hundred miles for my feet and legs to learn to ride the MTen 'fast' without wobbles, probably about the same for the 16x... I learned by very very very gradually increasing my top speed—dealing with the wobbles first by slowing down, then by changing foot pressure, a little by clenching the wheel (which I try not to do normally). I'm betting that time and miles will solve wobbles for you too. Now I can feel them want to start and make immediate adjustments so they're pretty much a thing of the past. But a good bump can set them in motion too, so I still have much to learn.

Patience grasshopper.

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10 hours ago, bracky72 said:

I have a 16x and my ar+ arrives today. I’ll let you know how they compare. 

Yes! Did you get it?

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I did!  I only had a chance to look it over and ride it around for about 15 minutes. No big speed runs yet but I got it up to 25 mph a few times and it felt very smooth. It has a lot of gyroscopic effect. Maybe even more then my 16x with h666 tire. 

Tomorrow I plan to attach some pads and go for a long ride. We’ll see what I think. :)

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It takes an effort to turn the wheel once past a certain speed. I like the feeling because it’s the opposite of twitchy. 
 

For some background I’ve got a bit over 700 miles on my 16x. It was wobble city when I first started riding it at speed but with practice and experience that disappeared.

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As the combination on the wheel diameter and the wheel weight increases, the force required to change the direction of the unicycle increases. The more spin you have the more it wants to go straight. 
 

1) larger diameter, 2) heavier tire,rim and motor  3) faster RPM - all make the unicycle more stable and more difficult to turn. =less twitchy. = less nimble 

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I own a Nikola 2700, and it is indeed a wobble wheel, made an upgrade from stock and instantly felt difference, still get wobbles on hard acceleration and hard breaking, if you have stock Nikola, just attach 4 kilogram brick to upper part of the wheel and you will see what I am talking about. To help fight wobble decreased tyre pressure, but now afraid to damage the rim. 

But !! 2700wh is so awesome to have )

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27 minutes ago, jmfc187 said:

I own a Nikola 2700, and it is indeed a wobble wheel, made an upgrade from stock and instantly felt difference, still get wobbles on hard acceleration and hard breaking, if you have stock Nikola, just attach 4 kilogram brick to upper part of the wheel and you will see what I am talking about. To help fight wobble decreased tyre pressure, but now afraid to damage the rim. 

But !! 2700wh is so awesome to have )

So you ride with a brick attached? Lol if you get mad at someone trying to run you over, detach brick and throw! Lol

1 hour ago, bracky72 said:

It takes an effort to turn the wheel once past a certain speed. I like the feeling because it’s the opposite of twitchy. 
 

For some background I’ve got a bit over 700 miles on my 16x. It was wobble city when I first started riding it at speed but with practice and experience that disappeared.

I keep seeing the 16x recommended over the NK+ what are your thoughts so far. 🤔

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The Nikola AR+ needs more weight on the bottom for stability. I think the additional weight on the top will make it more prone to wobbles. But we'll see. I have less than 200 miles on the wheel, and I think it might be able to be tamed with more experience.

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Learning to carve, turning back and forth will make you one with the wheel and give you skills that make the wobbles go away. You don’t need to carve all the time. You just need to be able to.

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I just returned from my first real ride. About 43 miles. So I didn’t find the wheel to be particularly prone to wobble.   It is more cumbersome then the 16x. In certain situations you can definitely feel the top heaviness. But it was not a problem just something to keep in mind. It also doesn’t have the off the line punch of the 16x. To compare it to a bicycle it’s like you are in a higher gear. But this enables effortless smooth high speed operation.  Even at the end of my ride it had no problem accelerating up to my personal comfort zone of 30 mph. I’m very pleased with it.  But depending on usage the 16x would be a better choice. The 16x would be better for a beginner for sure due to the lower center of gravity. 
 

 

BDA5FAB6-AFCC-4CA6-8957-F41A7A830C0A.png

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43 minutes ago, bracky72 said:

I just returned from my first real ride. About 43 miles. So I didn’t find the wheel to be particularly prone to wobble.   It is more cumbersome then the 16x. In certain situations you can definitely feel the top heaviness. But it was not a problem just something to keep in mind. It also doesn’t have the off the line punch of the 16x. To compare it to a bicycle it’s like you are in a higher gear. But this enables effortless smooth high speed operation.  Even at the end of my ride it had no problem accelerating up to my personal comfort zone of 30 mph. I’m very pleased with it.  But depending on usage the 16x would be a better choice. The 16x would be better for a beginner for sure due to the lower center of gravity.

Agreed. That is very much what I would have wrote about it, except for me ... change 30 mph to 20 mph. :laughbounce2: But I will always accept more headroom for extreme emergencies, such a big angry dog!

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I have a Nikola 2665 Wh. Yes, it does wobble. But it is not more than what is okay for a performance electric unicycle. I never had increased danger because of wobbles.

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19 hours ago, bracky72 said:

 To compare it to a bicycle it’s like you are in a higher gear.

 

This is accurate IMO.

 

I think with some solid power pads you can overcome the initial "heaviness" and the wobbles. I plan to try some clark pads with the wheel.

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Even though the Nikola is thicker than the 16x the pedal mounts are closer together.  And the actual pedals are slightly smaller. So you ride with a closer stance on the Nikola.

83A8F81E-8261-4715-B70B-A06B5E792C2E.jpeg

Edited by bracky72
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Hmmmm. The AR NK+ looks good, but I'm thinking the v12 🤔

3 hours ago, bracky72 said:

Even though the Nikola is thicker than the 16x the pedal mounts are closer together.  And the actual pedals are slightly smaller. So you ride with a closer stance on the Nikola.

83A8F81E-8261-4715-B70B-A06B5E792C2E.jpeg

How can you lift it by the handle with it so wide?!  Let's get some side shots! 

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On 8/4/2021 at 9:20 AM, bracky72 said:

Even though the Nikola is thicker than the 16x the pedal mounts are closer together.  And the actual pedals are slightly smaller. So you ride with a closer stance on the Nikola.

83A8F81E-8261-4715-B70B-A06B5E792C2E.jpeg

Would you say the Nikola is more comfortable, Less, or the same... I'm unsure about the tilted peddles. 

 

Which one do you enjoy more? 

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I just got the nikola so of course there is the honeymoon period where even annoyances can be overlooked. :D

 

They both are so much fun but quite a different ride considering the common 3x16 tire.  Over all I’d say the 16x is designed better with better use of space in the shell but the nikola is so capable and rides so nice.

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