Popular Post Paulo Mesquita Posted July 30, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted July 30, 2021 After the frustrating 1 hour ride with my brand new 4th Gen. s18 a couple of months ago, I finally got it back with a new motherboard. It was tested at MyEWeel in Bulgaria and is now working fine. A couple of days ago I did 35kms with it and had zero problems 😁 With my 96kg weight, fully equipped I set it up like this: Upper chamber - 200psi Lower chambet - 70psi Tire pressure - 32psi Sensitivity red knob - 50% The blue o-ring - goes down about 60% of the way, which seems to be perfect. The result: a very nice ride. In bigger bumps it was almost perfect. On smaller ones, a little big harder. ( my track design has very smooth roads - in the big 8km radius condo I live in - and also very bumpy old roads with holes in the old village I ride in, and also on the cobblestone roads.) All in all I'd say the S18 is 25% more smooth than the 16x. Actually, after a while, it almost felt like I was riding the 16x but with lower tire pressure than it's 35psi in the tire. I'm thinking about putting the red sensitivity knob all the way to high sensitivity (full counter clockwise). @ShanesPlanet any advice? 😉 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 (edited) I got nuthin, aside for congrats... Edited July 30, 2021 by ShanesPlanet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbhb Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 (edited) 52 minutes ago, Paulo Mesquita said: I'm thinking about putting the red sensitivity knob all the way to high sensitivity (full counter clockwise). Glad to hear you got your replacement motherboard sorted and having a better experience with the S18 so far. For reference, my settings for the Red rebound dial are: wind it as far over to the fast setting, then wind it 5 clicks back! Edited July 30, 2021 by fbhb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex-l Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 If you want to experience a really smooth ride, you want the blue o-ring to go down to around 80%. It makes a huge difference! I would lower the upper chamber a bit. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulo Mesquita Posted July 30, 2021 Author Share Posted July 30, 2021 5 hours ago, fbhb said: Glad to hear you got your replacement motherboard sorted and having a better experience with the S18 so far. For reference, my settings for the Red rebound dial are: wind it as far over to the fast setting, then wind it 5 clicks back! Got it, thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulo Mesquita Posted July 30, 2021 Author Share Posted July 30, 2021 3 hours ago, Alex-l said: If you want to experience a really smooth ride, you want the blue o-ring to go down to around 80%. It makes a huge difference! I would lower the upper chamber a bit. I'll try that after trying the Red rebound 5 clicks back advice. I need to do each adjust isolated so I don't mix things up and understand what change causes what effect. But I'll definitely do that and give feedback, thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Cauac Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 Glad to hear you got your S18 back. Be patient with the setting of your shock. Everyone is different and will require slightly different setting even if one is of the same weight/height. It takes a few tries to get it just right. Like you mentioned, isolate your changes and go with what feels right to you. Remember you can always lock the suspension whenever you want a stiffer ride. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll King Posted August 15, 2021 Share Posted August 15, 2021 Just curious, what was it doing for you to get a new motherboard ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulo Mesquita Posted August 15, 2021 Author Share Posted August 15, 2021 7 hours ago, Troll King said: Just curious, what was it doing for you to get a new motherboard ? On its 1st ride the wheel dropped dead after only 14kms. The MB died on me and I hat to ship back a brand new S18. Now it's running fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll King Posted August 15, 2021 Share Posted August 15, 2021 6 hours ago, Paulo Mesquita said: On its 1st ride the wheel dropped dead after only 14kms. The MB died on me and I hat to ship back a brand new S18. Now it's running fine. Ok because im having a different issue, my wheel died when I landed on top of a table top jump and face planted ( good thing I was wearing a full face helmet and gear ,lol) but then it would not engage the motor and the light would come on with a constant four beeps. I tried to upgrade the firmware in euc world and it goes all the way through the upgrade and then turns off afterwards but when I power it back on I get the same four beeps. I can tell its sending power to the motor because it does not roll freely and the only way to get the beeps to stop and power it off is to hold the power button until I get a long continuous beep and then it will shut off, but if I power it back on with the kingsong app it says that the firmware upgrade detected is not completed but when i select continue to upgrade I get a message that the currant one is the latest version and ask if i know it so I select that and then it shows version 1.00 again. Im concerned that if I replace the controller and it turns out to be the motor then Ive just wasted money on the control board and have to buy a motor. My dealer cant get any communication through to kingsong so he just sent me 200 dollars to cover the controller because another shop told me that it was probably a bad controller but they didnt really have any equipment to test or diagnose it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulo Mesquita Posted August 16, 2021 Author Share Posted August 16, 2021 4 hours ago, Troll King said: Ok because im having a different issue, my wheel died when I landed on top of a table top jump and face planted ( good thing I was wearing a full face helmet and gear ,lol) but then it would not engage the motor and the light would come on with a constant four beeps. I tried to upgrade the firmware in euc world and it goes all the way through the upgrade and then turns off afterwards but when I power it back on I get the same four beeps. I can tell its sending power to the motor because it does not roll freely and the only way to get the beeps to stop and power it off is to hold the power button until I get a long continuous beep and then it will shut off, but if I power it back on with the kingsong app it says that the firmware upgrade detected is not completed but when i select continue to upgrade I get a message that the currant one is the latest version and ask if i know it so I select that and then it shows version 1.00 again. Im concerned that if I replace the controller and it turns out to be the motor then Ive just wasted money on the control board and have to buy a motor. My dealer cant get any communication through to kingsong so he just sent me 200 dollars to cover the controller because another shop told me that it was probably a bad controller but they didnt really have any equipment to test or diagnose it. I had the light only synthom too and the wheel not rolling freely too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll King Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 On 8/15/2021 at 5:46 AM, Paulo Mesquita said: On its 1st ride the wheel dropped dead after only 14kms. The MB died on me and I hat to ship back a brand new S18. Now it's running fine. I got the new control board, installed it and the same thing, firmware updates and shuts off and then when I restart the wheel it gives the same 4 beeps. I noticed if I unplug the motor the beeps are gone. Also checked all the batteries to have good voltage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 (edited) might be a bad/broken/cut wire from the hall sensors to the control board but @Brendan "nog3" Halliday would know better than I. 4 beeps is a clue, I think it means that the wheel didn't finish initialization and that can happen if the hall sensor isn't connected/reacting properly. Edited August 20, 2021 by Tawpie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Brahan Seer Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 5 hours ago, Tawpie said: 4 beeps is a clue, I think it means that the wheel didn't finish initialization and that can happen if the hall sensor isn't connected/reacting properly. After updating to Firmware 2.07 my wheel now beeps seven times when initialising after switching on. I'm sure it was less than this on 2.06 but not by much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendan "nog3" Halliday Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 10 hours ago, Troll King said: I got the new control board, installed it and the same thing, firmware updates and shuts off and then when I restart the wheel it gives the same 4 beeps. I noticed if I unplug the motor the beeps are gone. Also checked all the batteries to have good voltage When you say 'unplug the motor' are you talking about the yellow mt60 connector only? From your description there may be a fault with the hall effect sensor or the cable for it to the motor. As @Tawpiesuggests above, the wheel showing up with an odd firmware and 4 repeating beeps, accepting the firmware update but then it not taking it correctly is usually a sign that it's not detecting a hall effect sensor connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll King Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 4 hours ago, Brendan "nog3" Halliday said: When you say 'unplug the motor' are you talking about the yellow mt60 connector only? From your description there may be a fault with the hall effect sensor or the cable for it to the motor. As @Tawpiesuggests above, the wheel showing up with an odd firmware and 4 repeating beeps, accepting the firmware update but then it not taking it correctly is usually a sign that it's not detecting a hall effect sensor connected. I was thinking that could be a possibility. Do I need to ta ke it all the way apart to check that, as lm assuming it's right off the motor and how do I check it, can I ohm it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 (edited) I don't have an s18 so am guessing here but you're looking at at least getting the outer shell off again... on my 16x the hall sensor wires come out of the hub at the same place as the motor wires and are goobered in place at the motor exit. Start there and follow them looking for nicks or breaks in the insulation. In particular, inspect the connector that attaches it to the control board, I've seen pics of hall sensor wires that broke there. Do the KS or Softtuner apps give you any diagnostic info? There is a spot to check the device status but offhand I don't remember where. If it is broken hall sensor wires, you're hoping the wires got broken somewhere that's not inside the motor so you can still splice them. Edited August 20, 2021 by Tawpie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NErider Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 @Troll King I had a similar issue. Except my S18 failed when simply slowing to a stop from walking speed. It sounds like you have have sheared the welds on the axle within the motor and shorted everything out. Some tests to do are: Spin the wheel. Does it have resistance to spin? If so, unplug the motor. If it spin freely, then you likely have blown motherboard. If it still has resistance you can meter out the motor leads for continuity to each other and ground. But really, if you unplug the motor and it still has resistance to spin, there is an internal problem. Also you need to check your main and sub voltage on the battery packs. The large pins are main voltage, the small pins are sub voltage. The battery connector with only one small pin gets voltage checked to the negative of that pack. If your motor failed internally, it is likely that your motherboard, and at least one of your packs has been taken out with it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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