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Posted

2 hours ago, Wolverine said:

A Facebook group called Inmotion V11 Owners has an interesting new post. According to the post and comments, Inmotion V11 has problems with power mosfets as it is with V12. The author of the post seems to have two V11 unicycles, and both have broken for the same reason. As it seemed suspicious, I decided to investigate. I contacted a couple of resellers and gave them a link to this specific Facebook post. I got the answer that resellers don't know anything about this situation (no one hasn’t contacted with them regarding to this problem). They also contacted with Inmotion and manufacturer said that the V11 has no problems with power mosfets. At this point, I would like to remind everyone that everything on Facebook may not be true. If it seems suspicious, it is worth investigating, just as I did. Inmotion V11 is still a very good choice to buy.

V11 failures could be nothing more than 'background noise' but . . . I haven’t seen relevant facts, I'm always interested.  Digital media forums spread lots of information and it’s tedious to sort through.  Social media could make the EUC community recognize infrequent failures as EUCs age, then inform manufacturing choices

It's fair to say Inmotion EUCs are good value for their price.  BUT . . . If V11 motor controllers begin to fail the EUC community should track failures, catalog information for each failure and inform Inmotion.  Inmotion used the same switching transistors, MOSFETs, in motor controllers for several EUC models while motors got bigger.  Switching transistors have limited life expectancy in all applications and the safest choice is to maximize operating ‘headroom’ so that the switching transistor outlives the product it is serving.

Some choices in EUC manufacturing are made by the manufacturer and not by engineering staff.  The EUCs we're buying make EUC riders the product development team.  Let's remind manufacturers that we appreciate conservative manufacturing choices that limit our risk. 

 

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Posted
6 minutes ago, Boostnsvt said:

I dont understand what you mean when you said that "an electrical connection is very possible when using just paste".

no part of the fet must touch the heatsink, else a short will happen. But on the v11 there is no pad really, it is an electric insulator, it depends on paste for hear transfer. 

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Posted

@Boostnsvt

on mine, they made a sandwich of white thermal paste to stick a rubber insulator to the wheel’s heatsink, and then more thermal paste to stick the mosfets to the rubber insulator.
 

The insulator is to prevent electrical connection between the mosfet’s heatsink/screw tab and the wheel’s heatsink. 
 

you can see pics from my teardown here

i assumed the “rubber” was actually a silicone thermal pad but didnt test it. 

Posted
1 hour ago, enaon said:

v11 do not use a pad for the mosfets

Really?

I think V11 used a grey-color, non-electrically-conductive heat transfer pad:

Monokoleso-Inmotion-V11-rabiraem-45.jpg

... and V12 used a pink pad (plus unnecessary paste):

51803622931_66f4e948dc_b.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, RagingGrandpa said:

Really?

I think V11 used a grey-color, non-electrically-conductive heat transfer pad:

I will take some photos during daytime so that they are clear, my phone is not very good, but they have two types.

1) A very thin, elastic material that is for fets insulation, maybe a pad, but nothing like I have ever seen before, so I do not think it is really a pad,

2) and a pad, a very thick one, for the phase resistors, they are right bellow the fets. 

 

it looks a bit like in your photo, only it is very thin and very elastic to be a pad, a sub mm pad is very easy to break, this is not like that. Maybe it is a type I have not seen before and I rush to conclusions. But there was paste as well for sure, common heat paste, not liquid rubber as Boostnsvt saw on his. 

ps. the solder job on the fets on your photo is a lot better than the one I have here, mine is sub pro. 

ps2, I have this board because on a sudden stop, two fets were gone, the two fuses under the paper near the capacitors are gone, and one leg of the small capacitor next to the logic board (glued with gorilla glue type -polyurethane?- for some mysterious reason) connector has vaporized.  :wacko:

Edited by enaon
Posted (edited)
43 minutes ago, Richardo said:

@Boostnsvt

on mine, they made a sandwich of white thermal paste to stick a rubber insulator to the wheel’s heatsink, and then more thermal paste to stick the mosfets to the rubber insulator.
 

The insulator is to prevent electrical connection between the mosfet’s heatsink/screw tab and the wheel’s heatsink. 
 

you can see pics from my teardown here

i assumed the “rubber” was actually a silicone thermal pad but didnt test it. 

I had a thick blotch of the white stuff and can confirm it isnt. It is Liquid Electrical Tape. I have a can of star brite liquid electrical tape and I was able to replicate the same thing on the pad. 

After searching for the best application to use as a heat dissipator; pads, paste, or those mica discs, I found that none of them are supposed to be used together, so my first statement was correct. The rubber substance (liquid electrical tape) that covered over 50% of the pad drastically increases heat accumulation and retainability. Im almost certain if this method was used on more sensitive electric device like a CPU it would be working on borrowed time.

Edited by Boostnsvt
Posted
5 hours ago, Boostnsvt said:

I just pulled my thermal pad off the mosfets and found the rubber glue was used DIRECTLY on the thermal pad or mosfets. If the purpose of the pad is to conduct and disperse heat, a rubber barrier would inhibit that drastically. I am in the process of replacing the pad for paste.

Any possibility of showing a photo of what you mean.  Maybe a before and after the repair? 

Posted
On 1/25/2022 at 7:13 AM, RArtem said:

Jus't don't disassemble the wheel if you don't know what your are doing. You have at least directional thread pattern on your tire and nipple for pumping from only one side on wheel. Wiring is also different from two sides. It has only 3 phase wires (one from the side, and two from the others). So just make photos during disassembly or mark everything with stickers or marker.

Agreed. I also wondered if Chooch had now got the tyre mounted backwards after reversing the motor.  Always best to mark everything clearly when dismantling so that you know you are assembling it correctly. 

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Posted (edited)
On 1/25/2022 at 8:13 AM, RArtem said:

Jus't don't disassemble the wheel if you don't know what your are doing. You have at least directional thread pattern on your tire and nipple for pumping from only one side on wheel. Wiring is also different from two sides. It has only 3 phase wires (one from the side, and two from the others). So just make photos during disassembly or mark everything with stickers or marker.

The thing is, he connected the "wires" correctly, just the motor was other way around.. True about tire direction doh. Then again some tires don't have direction.

I could have made same mistake, if wheel don't show specific way to put back together. Having simple "L" "R" would help a lot.

Edited by Funky
Posted

When i changed my tire. I took some pics of how things were hooked up. With the v12 its a bit weird because i noticed the motor cables actually crossed each other. I actually questioned myself a few times when putting it back together if i was doing it correctly. 

Has there been any other word on this meeting with inmotion and the outcome of the issues with the mosfets? Or any other reported cutouts? It kind seems like it quieted down quite a bit..

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Posted (edited)
26 minutes ago, jimjam.nyc said:

Has there been any other word on this meeting with inmotion and the outcome of the issues with the mosfets? Or any other reported cutouts? It kind seems like it quieted down quite a bit..

Chinese New Year is about to start and i guess we will not hear much from them for about 16 days.
Happy New Year, i guess:)

edit: as for myself, I think i will wait for a Chinese New Year to finish and inmotion coming back with a second solution to this crisis. My main issue: returning the trust of the wheel that it won't cut out at 60kmh. The first solution doesn't help in this regard.

Edited by beveik
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Posted

i think my preference at this point is to have inmotion send me a new board with the beefed-up mosfets so i can install it myself. that may not be everyones fav option esp if you are not a DIYer.

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Posted

I wanna transcribe that MADpak Q&A because a lot of those questions don't seem like they were answered, but maybe we could piece together something from what we have, if it were in textual format

Posted

That video from MADpack is great that it gets straight to the questions that has been asked multiple times.

I disagree with the thinking that repeating the spin tests is going to weaken an otherwise "good" board. In fact I think the proposed test is not aggressive enough. In the ideal situation, we should be able to stress test the machine until it cuts out. This cut out should be due to a designed limitation of the board (over amp/voltage/temp) therefore cutting the power. If the cut out occurs as a result of component failure (can't turn back on), then that's how the defects are truly weeded out. From the official spin test video, the wheel is stressed but it does not shut off which means it is impossible to know just how hard you've actually stressed the components because it never hit that limit/cut out.

If this was a Gotway I can understand the oversight/lack of design, and you can probably stress test the thing until it starts smoking, but we all expect Inmotion to be an industry leader in safety.

I'm sure Inmotion knows this already and this is why they are developing the APP function to do this test properly. The spin test should only be used as a general guideline to weed out obviously defective boards, but it likely isn't accurate enough to weed out those boards that are just shy of meeting specs. 

I am riding the repaired V12 (new mobo) with confidence but am also treating it gently until at least the APP test comes out - but realistically I will only be 100% confident once the new board is installed and tested. I think for the Batch 1/2 customers who pass the APP-run spin test, they should get at least a discount on a new board - a free replacement is a bit much if the existing board can be proven to be safe. 

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Posted (edited)
13 minutes ago, conecones said:

a free replacement is a bit much if the existing board can be proven to be safe. 

Latter in news: Rider dies, because of broken board that "passed" so called test..

Test is test, it don't reflect real life situation, with real rider.. Are test made for 70kg rider, or for 130kg rider. There's many things that test can miss..

Edited by Funky
Posted
1 hour ago, Marc Roberts said:

Still not clear to me from the various videos etc. if they actually *are* beefing up the MOSFETs on the new boards/HT version...

i may have misunderstood madpacks q&a's but i thought inmotion did say they will be using more robust mosfets (dont remember the exact words they used)

Posted
53 minutes ago, evans036 said:

i may have misunderstood madpacks q&a's but i thought inmotion did say they will be using more robust mosfets (dont remember the exact words they used)

In the ad for the V12 HT it states "more durable MOS"

nEU2T3U.png

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